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Showing results for tags 's10'.
Found 21 results
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Hello, I will be doing an engine swap in my s-10 fairly soon. The specific truck I have is a 1992 s-10 ext. cab 2.5l 4-banger, with RWD and a 5 speed manual. What I am thinking for engine/ tranny is a Chevy 350 with a NV3500 transmission. It would be easier for me to find a 350 that already has a NV4500 married to it, but I have heard that it is difficult to fit a NV4500 in an s-10. I can't find any info for my exact model, so I'm asking if the combo of the 350/nv3500 will be a good fit. I won't be racing this truck, I just want more get-up and towing capacity. if you know of a better setup I am very open. also originally I was thinking of putting a 5.3 Vortec instead of the 5.7/350 but everyones been saying the 350 is easier. -
I recently rebuilt the 4l60e on my 2000 S10 4.3L 2WD. It was slipping out of 4th while in D so I drove it for a week in 3. Eventually, 3rd gear was slipping, especially when warmed up, so i decided to rebuild. I got a vacuum tested reman valve body from Shift Rite Transmission shop with the Sonnax TCC Isolator Sleeve installed. It included all new solenoids. I also got a reman pump (old pump was scored up inside) from same shop with upgraded Sonnax boost valve. I installed pinless accumulators and new Transgo seperator plate with new gaskets and new checkballs. I upgraded to Sonnax smart shell and installed Sonnax Heavy Duty 3-4 backing plate with appropriate steels and frictions. All new steels and all new HE frictions - All clearances (including input shaft endplay) within spec checked 3+ times. New Borg Warner Dual Input Sprag. New reverse input drum. New 2-4 band. New 3rd accumulator checkball capsule tested for leaks. Sonnax Servo Release Check Valve installed over it. Standard Toledo rebuild kit for seals and gaskets, etc.. Also, new VSS and new Neutral Safety Switch. All new bushings. 400 grit emery cloth sanded journals on everything. Cleaned MAF sensor with cleaner. I diagnosed a leaking input drum housing at the shaft and got a new one with new blue rubber pistons. Old 3-4 clutch pack was in decent shape from before but still replaced new. Air-tested new input drum cold and it did not leak where the shaft and housing meet. The plate stiffener was loose during disassembly so after rebuild delayed thud into Reverse was fixed. When I bought the truck about 500 miles before the 3-4 went out the CLUSTR fuse was blown causing limp mode. After replacing the fuse truck drove fine until 3-4 problem. This leads me to believe that there is maybe some electrical issue, but no code was thrown until the slipping got terrible. It was solenoid A electrical (P0748), which I replaced and code disappeared. It came on again a few drives later and then disappeared the drive after that no changes on my part. During test drive after rebuild it was SO damn nice and smooth at first I couldn't believe it. THEN after it warmed up all of the 3-4 slipping returned and I had to drive it home in 2nd. I disconnected the MAF sensor and drove it until warm to rule that out. No luck there. Slightly firmer shifts, but did not help slipping. I'm thinking now that possible causes could be: New solenoids - one may be bad, The input drum doesn't leak when cold, but does when hot, The 3rd accumulator check ball is bad when hot (I wasn't too sure of my vacuum test being accurate, which said it didn't leak, so I tested with 50/50 solvent and ATF and it did not leak while cold), or there is a bad wire somewhere considering the original P0748 code that came on and off 2 times. ANY insight or ideas would are very appreciated. I've spent countless hours on this and is my 1st rebuild. -
1994 chevy s10 transmission problems
Blood Moon's Sacrament posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
So i have a little auto 1994 chevy s10 thats having issues. It has park, neutral, and reverse. But not any forward gears. When shes in reverse, you can fly. But when you try using overdrive, drive, 1 and 2, it either barely moves around 1500rpm or it doesn't move at all. It hasnt been burning oil or fluids and they dont have any off smells, it doesnt squeal, bang or make weird noises, theres no service lights popping up and its stumping me. Truck has around 188k km on it and was never "bagged" as far as i know. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -
I recently got a 2000 chevy s10 LS 4.3 v6 4wd that wont start it cranks no problem everything else works but the security light is always on it never flashes its solid i have tried the relearn procedure 10 times nothing i have scanned it for codes got none i have tried putting a ziptie tip in the passlock plug in and nothing i have found a forum that is having the same issue but they did the resistor and it didnt work for them i dont know what to do to fix it and get it to run i dont have the money and dont want to take it to the dealer so dont suggest that if you know how to fix it please let me know thank you. -
Anyone help with battery tie down used in 1989 S15? I can't figure out what factory method was used to secure battery in place. thanks -
Apologies if posted before, I searched and found nothing. I updated my phone recently and noticed something very interesting. I did a console swap for my truck, and confirmed it had the early model wireless charging. I was testing the fit of my new S10E, with and without case, on the console to see if it would rest nicely when it started to charge wirelessly. I haven't done a full set of tests to see how fast, to what percent, location, rubber orientation, etc. So if anyone wants to feel free; but I did want to pass this along for those who have yet to upgrade and might have this phone. -
I was trying to install a new aftermarket radio and as I was figuring out which wires where which my constant orange wire touch my ground wire and ever since then my prnd321 and speedometer gas and temp isn't working anymore and some bulbs went out and now the power to the illumination in my fuse box went out even when I change the fuse (2003 s10 2.2 auto extended cab) -
My 02 sonoma is ticking louder now that the weather has became warmer in indiana. I currently have 5w 30 mobile one super high mialege oil in there +rislone engine cleaner. The ticking will disapear when I give it gas but if I just sit it will tick tick tick tick tick tick. The noise is driving me mad. I have heard that by adding atf transmission fluid in with the oil and running it for about 30 minutes then changing the oil that it would help break down any type of crap that may be on the valves. Has anyone ever solved this problem cheaply? -
Blazer cranks no start. Sometimes When I release the key it diesels once or twice. Srs light on abs intermittently. P204 o2 sensor post cat replaced. New fuel pump, new battery, new spider, new lower intake gaskets, new thermostat, new water pump. Dist cap had white corrosion cleaned reinstalled. I give up. Anyone have specific fix to solve my problem!? -
My 02 sonoma was lowered by the previous owner and I have been searching everywhere on what I have to do to lift this thing back up, I cant get answers anywhere. I want to lift it back up to the height it was when it came out of the factory. I like the way my truck looks but the ride is a different story and is pretty much hell on wheels. I need to figure this out before I get sued by one of my passagers. The trucks rides like a log wagon in the west virginia moutains. please share your suggestions.
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Okay so I got a 95 s10 with the 4L60e trans, so I'll be driving down the road and I guess in about 3rd to forth gear at around 40-50 mph the rpm will drop to between 2-3 thousand rpm (shifting into 4th i believe) and a rather loud humming noise occurs. Is this normal? Or should I be worried? Please help I work 6days a week and have to drive this truck everyday. Just need to know if this is normal, thanks
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I just purchased this 2002 gmc sonoma v6 about a month ago and everything is well with the truck besides the gauge cluster lights, Mirror map lights, climate control lights and also my double accesory power plug dont work. The Dome light, Airbag switch light, floor lights, brake and headlights all work. When I purchased my truck the gauge cluster was broke so I ordered a used one off ebay and switched the part of the cluster that stores the miles and gear selector screen. No lights dim at all when I roll the dimmer switch up and down but If I roll the dimmer switch all the way up that makes the dome light come on. I sure could use some help and advice. Thank you all and if you need to know any info please let me know I will check back quite a bit. Brandon
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From the album: 2002 GMC Sonoma SL EXT. Cab 2WD
Sonoma Rear Before Larger Tires and Lift Kit. -
From the album: 2002 GMC Sonoma SL EXT. Cab 2WD
Sonoma Right Side Before Larger Tires and Lift Kit. -
From the album: 2002 GMC Sonoma SL EXT. Cab 2WD
Sonoma Right Side Before Larger Tires and Lift Kit. -
From the album: 2002 GMC Sonoma SL EXT. Cab 2WD
Sonoma Left Side Before Larger Tires and Lift Kit. -
I am replacing my belt tensioner. I can not find a place where it is bolted in. I thought that it was right in the middle of the actual tensioner but it's not. It look like there is some very large screw? Which nothing else I read or watched mentioned -
Hello, my name is Kyle. I am new to GM-Trucks.com and am just starting to really get into do it yourself projects. I will be taking my 1987 GMC S15 pickup down to florida next week for the Daytona 500 from New Jersey. But first I need to replace the belt tensioner. I understand the part of taking it off and putting the new one on but in videos I keep watching them keep mentioning something about the torque when I tighten the new tensioner. When tightening it I don't just tighten it with a socket? I need a torque wrench? Any help or tips you guys or girls can provide me with for this project would be greatly apprciated. Thanks!!!
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S10 Sputtering at Idle and Check Engine Light Flashing
djpardi posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
I found this thread on this site that seems the closest to my issue but I wanted to get a few other comments before I start: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=62425\ I have an Chevy S10 4x4 '02 6 cylinder crew and I have a very similar issue (as seen in above thread). Last I started the S10 there were no issues. This morning I started it and at idle it is sputtering and hesitant when gas is applied. The check engine light is flashing. I shut the truck off to see if it would solve the problem and the engine turned but did not start up right away. I waited about 2 minutes and it started again but still sputtering. I had to get to work (~6 miles highway driving) and noticed there were no issues at high speeds (~55 mph). The sputtering resumed when i was off the highway. I read one forum saying the pistons could be running into the valves causing the sputtering and I am very worried that the engine may get damaged beyond repair if i drive home if it hasn't already. I also read it could be any of the following problems: -Fuel sensor -Vacuum leak -ignition or fuel injector -oxygen sensor -and now the Vent screens Can you give me any suggestions. I know the first thing I have to do is get the codes from a local garage I'm just a little afraid to drive the vehicle in its current condition One last note that may or may not be of relavance. Over the weekend Snow Storm I noticed a large accumulation of snow under the entire truck when i backed it out of its parking spot. The truck was not sputtering at this point it i noticed it the next day -
My S10 is a 1995 with a 1996 V6 vortec that I threw an edelbrock intake and 500 cfm carb on. here is the real kick in rump...It eats starters....literally destroys the solenoid. When I watch it try to turn the motor over it whins n barely turns the motor then the aperture gear slips n makes a god awful metal on metal bang sound. So when I get a new starter it is fine for a few starts then the problems reoccur. Could this be an issue of the motor having too much compression for the starter and it not being able to turn the motor or am I missing something else. I am just tired of replacing starters. -
I have a 4.3 vortec s10 and I recently took off the intake and took the throttle plate out to clean it. I am having troubles getting it to line back up when I put it back in. When the truck is off, it has no rub on the throttle body. But when I start the truck, it makes the gas pedal sticky and also makes the plate rub on the throttle body. I have tried repositioning it many times and also tried tightening the screws very tightly. It would be much appreciated if anyone could help me out since this is my daily driver and I don't want my throttle body all tore up. Thanks, Mike
