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Drives

Found 9 results

  1. Hey everyone, so I'm pretty new to the chevy 350's. I have the 350 small block tbi with an NV3500 transmission. I'm looking to get more power and see what peoples builds are because the 350 is gutless with this transmission. Thank you all in advance!
  2. I have a 06 GMC Sierra 1500 with a 4.3 and found some carb swap hits to do away with the spider injector but I would rather swap a 350 or build a 383 for it. The truck is a basic single cab long bed work truck edition so no special electrical components other than the radio cluster and an airbag under the seat. How hard would it be to swap it for a carbed 350? Was thinking maybe the computer and everything from a 93 or 94 Chevy since it has the 4l60 in it and could splice my trans connector into it. Thanks.
  3. I have a 5.7L TBI engine in my 94 GMC C1500. The truck is running really terrible. It’s sucking in ALOT of air through the intake without pressing the pedal also it has a really rough idle and when accelerating it sputters and kind of hesitates. It started with the O2 sensor code. I replaced it. Code went away then code 32 popped up. I replaced the EGR VALVE and the Solenoid. Still was having issues. I just replaced the TPS sensor, spark plugs, MAP sensor and still having the same issue. Could it be the IAC Valve messing up or something else?
  4. Why would my 84 chevy van with 350 v8 be getting to much fule..2gallon for 4 miles
  5. First time poster here. I'm not sure how to ask my question without going into a fair amount of detail. I have a 1994 k1500, i bought with a messed up trans and a '350 from a suburban' - note the quotation marks. I work at a dealership and our transmission guy is really good with these transmissions so I took it out and had him rebuilt it for me and he updated all the internals to the 2006+ mechanically but electronically its still a 1994. He tells me it's good for my eventual horsepower goals (600). Everything great and fine but this truck is a dog. Misfires alot has all sorts of issues with the engine, won't idle properly, Yada Yada. I decide to pull the engine. And before we take it apart we look at the casting numbers.... It's a 305... And the heads are for a 350... I was pretty unsure of what to do, however out of the blue I have an opportunity to buy whay should be a good 1998 350 vortec with ecm and full wiring harness for a great deal. There's enough there I have several options but my favorite, if it will work is use the ecm, the new engine and harness and plug it into my 1994 transmission. The question is, can I make it work. Will it run fine? What tuning might I need to do, or transmission modifications to make this work. I'm not opposed to swapping valve bodies and/or tcc solenoids to make this work, and from what I've read that's the biggest difference besides just obd1 to obd2
  6. HI Everyone I have a 1999 GM 1-ton with a rebuilt 350 in it. We put on new distributor, cap, coil, plugs and wires. The truck starts and runs good. but when under certain driving conditions (full throttle, or certain revs) the truck will backfire, hesitate etc. When a timing light is used the truck is timed right, but every so often it will throw a spark when the crank is 90 degrees past the timing marks. It is random when it happens, but it always happens in exactly the same spot. So it will fire 3 or 4 times on the mark and than once 90 degrees past and than back to the marks. My question is what could be causing this? I think 90 degrees on the crank is 45 degrees in the distributor, but how could the rotor be lined up to the next spark plug but jump back to #1? Any guidance or insight would be greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance.
  7. Hey, all! I have a question for anyone who know's there stuff about adding HP / Trq to 5.7 350 trucks, and thanks in advance for you info! Truck is: 1998 C1500 single cab, SWB, Sport 350 (5.7). Truck is 99% stock, only added dual cherry bomb glasspacks. Has 205k miles and still runs great, doesn't burn oil, doesn't smoke or knock, etc. Transmission is Muncie and is about ~2 years old. If I have about 2 grand to drop on it to add some HP/Trq what's the best bang for buck? I've been searching around and have been thinking: 1. have it rebuilt into a 383 stroker with an Eagle / Scat kit. That'd almost certainly wipe out all the funds right there, but could add some HP/TRQ and provide a better base to build on later. (Note: engine doesn't necessarily NEED a rebuild, but will eventually) 2. forget the rebuild and get full exhaust (headers > back), CAI, ignition, etc.. So, I'm leaning towards #2, however that presents another question: what's the best bang for buck with bolt-on parts? Heads, ignition, headers, CAI, etc? Anything I'm missing?
  8. The ZZ6 includes high-flow, fast-burn style aluminum cylinder heads with large intake runners. High-rpm beehive-style tapered valve springs with smaller valve spring retainers have reduced mass. There is much more to this engine than that. Learn more at Chevy's link. Chevy will announce availability of the new engine at SEMA in November (members of GM-trucks.com plan to attend). Chevy will introduce base versions and also a turn-key version of the ZZ6 including a carburetor, an air cleaner that matches the unique valve covers, the starter, distributor, alternator and additional accessories such as the air conditioning compressor and front-end accessory drive system.
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