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Showing results for tags 'c1500'.
Found 8 results
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Definitely stuck!! CODE 32 ob1 gm code the truck is idling really rough (sometimes sounds like it has bigger cams but it doesn’t), it stalls out with a quick snap open of acceleration, fuel mileage has down, loss power. I have a new 350 TBI CRATE engine coming I’m just trying to make sure I won’t have the code 32 issue with the new engine. had a code for an O2 sensor code so I replaced it and it hasn’t been an issue since ive replaced the EGR VALVE and the Solenoid, still was having the issue. So I replaced the MAP, TPS, and IAC valve, figured that would help. Still was having issues. I then replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter and ran a fuel injection service. That helped out a little bit but was still having the code 32 issue. I then replaced the coolant temp sensor on the intake manifold, Evap purge solenoid and vapor canister. That seemed to help out with my fuel economy. I’ve checked for any signs of a vacuum leak using carb cleaner to try and find the leak. I sprayed all the vacuum lines, intake manifold and throttle body and couldn’t find any source of leak. I’ve pushed on the diaphragm of the egr with the truck idling and it definitely changed idle states so I know the passages are clear. I checked the egr solenoid for correct power and measured 12v. WHERE DO I GO FROM HERE?
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Is it possible to fit a rear flip kit from a 94 Sierra c1500 onto a 94 k2500 Sierra? If not can someone tell me if ways I can lower my k2500! -
So I’ve got a 95 Chevrolet c1500 pickup. I just put a new engine in it like two months ago. I have been trying to get the ac working since it’s over 100 degrees where I live. I bypassed the pressure clutch switch with paper clip and the clutch kicked on. So I got get a new switch thinking that will fix it with a can of Freon. Only used one can. While I was putting the Freon in the clutch started turning but it didn’t stay turning. It would cut on and off repeatedly. So I go pull the ac relay fuse out from under the hood and thinking I might have a bad relay. I did the paper clip thing again but I didn’t turn off the truck so it made a small spark and the clutch stopped turning all together. So I went in the truck and turned the fan and ac off. I found out that since the spark when I turn the fan on it automatically turns the ac off. And the there isn’t hardly any air flow coming out of vents but you can hear the fan cut on. If the fan is off the ac is on and the clutch is short cycling but will not stay on when I turn the fan on. I need helppppp. Did I short out the blower motor relay or what?
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I have a 1993 GMC Sierra C1500 v6 4.3L with an automatic transmission and i have tried replacing the distributor cap, router button, spark-plugs and the module that sits under the distributor cap but nothing works it just rolls tries to kick and if it does start it dies instantly. also when trying to start it smoke rolls out of the throttle body I have no clue how to fix this -
Hey, all! I have a question for anyone who know's there stuff about adding HP / Trq to 5.7 350 trucks, and thanks in advance for you info! Truck is: 1998 C1500 single cab, SWB, Sport 350 (5.7). Truck is 99% stock, only added dual cherry bomb glasspacks. Has 205k miles and still runs great, doesn't burn oil, doesn't smoke or knock, etc. Transmission is Muncie and is about ~2 years old. If I have about 2 grand to drop on it to add some HP/Trq what's the best bang for buck? I've been searching around and have been thinking: 1. have it rebuilt into a 383 stroker with an Eagle / Scat kit. That'd almost certainly wipe out all the funds right there, but could add some HP/TRQ and provide a better base to build on later. (Note: engine doesn't necessarily NEED a rebuild, but will eventually) 2. forget the rebuild and get full exhaust (headers > back), CAI, ignition, etc.. So, I'm leaning towards #2, however that presents another question: what's the best bang for buck with bolt-on parts? Heads, ignition, headers, CAI, etc? Anything I'm missing? -
I have a 1995 c1500 silverado that has a 5"7-" drop on it and am tired of it - so I'm going the other way Ideally what I'm looking for are pics of all 3 - LOWERED, LIFTED and STOCK Rear hangers - so I can tell what I currently have and determine if I need to replace those while trying to life my truck up. I'm kinda thinking they weren't swapped, but I don't know 100% and need to - and pictures are the only way I can determine that at this point in time. I'm shooting for a 4" rear and 6" front lift and if I have lowered rear hangers/shackles - I'm obviously going to need to replace them - but I don't want to spend mooney on parts that I probably can't return especially if I don't actually need them - problem is, I have no idea since I didn't wind up lowering the rear myself I have no idea what was done aside from flipping the differential over and putting it on top of the springs! anyone got a few minutes to snap a pic of your rear hangers so I can compare notes ? Much appreciated -
I am at my wits end. I own a 1997 C1500 Silverado extended cab and I have just rolled past 210k miles. I wish to keep the truck since I cannot find the money to buy a new one so I have been repairing and replacing as necessary, which brings me to my issue. I have owned the truck for 3 years and bought it at 160k miles and at the time it had some issues with it in the engine as it didn't idle just right and it choked up on hard acceleration so I replaced all the usual and got my power back but the truck always had a bit of a stumble that never went away. I replaced nearly every part that deals with ignition and timing and got to the point this January that I had enough money to pay someone to rebuild an engine for me and pulled the original engine and dropped in the new one (rebuilt). now the fun part, the stumble issue showed up in the new engine as well. I have paid two different shops to diagnose and bother cannot find the issue in why it is misfire. The kicker, is all the misfires occur in just the front of the engine in cylinder 3 (the worst) and 2 and 4. The other cylinders do not misfire and the miss is visible at idle and can be felt at any throttle while driving. The parts from the old engine were transferred to the new engine normally I would have assumed the issue was in the spider injector but it passed leak down test flawlessly. One more issue is it would seem that the computer is trying to cut fuel and the truck is running slightly lean. I am currently considering that even though the EGR test passes it may be possible that there is something wrong with it opening too far and messing with the front cylinders. Any assistance anyone who has an idea would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
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