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Found 8 results

  1. I have a 2015 ltz z71 premium crew cab 1500 and was wandering if changing my lower control arms from the stock aluminum to the cast steel will affect the truck at all. Or if the two control arms are interchangeable below is the pic of what the control arms look like after I changed them out. Still have to add the washer but looks like they will work? Everything fits correctly other than the balljoint bolt length
  2. I have a 2022 Silverado 1500 four-wheel-drive. The dealer ordered the 2 inch lift kit they offer and I’m waiting for it to come in and have it installed. But I noticed that the kit doesn’t come with upper control arms. Is that going to be a problem? (***UPDATE*** ) so I had the factory lift gm offers installed. When I picked it up, it looked great but as soon as I went to drive it off the lot. I could tell something was wrong it felt completely different. I figured it was just a break in period. But even after a day or two, I was getting crazy bad vibration at low speeds. Took it back. They ended up putting one of the U-bolts on wrong (I have pictures if wanted) they fix that and told me the vibration was gone. I get my keys go to drive away vibrations right back. I turn right back around. this time they have a mechanic ride with me. He clearly hears an feels a vibration, says somethings wrong so we turned around and he takes it back in. Three hours later they bring my truck back they had to remove the back blocks said there was no taper to them and it was messing up drive line. I got it back and the vibration is still there. (Now annoyed that only the front is lifted and still vibrating). I have them take the whole lift kit off. Put it back to stock. (Now remind you my truck has been down and I’m missing work for 5 days at this point) And after that Whole ordeal, I was done with the truck since I couldn’t have it how I wanted it and decided to trade it in and they made me a good deal on a 2023 5.3 LT.z71 I know many have gotten this lift installed said it worked out for some reason it did not for me. I’m much happier with the new truck.
  3. Adding a zone 6.5 inch lift on my 2014 sierra. It has roughly 135k miles on engine. I just replaced front struts and sway bar links (even though kit comes with new links)..realized that after fact. I have steel cast control arms and curious what I should replace? A lot of people on facebook suggest the congnito or zone upper control arms but they are $500 just for the set. I was wondering if I could replace just the ball joints/tie rod ends when I install kit and then down the road replace UCA's with cognito...or is the stock cast steel control arm and ball joint all one piece? Meaning i cant just replace the ball joint? Just looking for some feedback and suggestions. i will have my son in truck a lot so that is why i want to be extra sure I have a solid front end. Any feedback, your pictures of 6.5 inch lifts, and experience with maintenance is appreciated. Been awhile since i posted on here!!
  4. I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 4x4 Crew Cab with the standard bed. I have the Rancho Quick-Lift front struts for the front that level the front about 2-1/4". I am looking at adding an additional 1" of lift front and rear. The rear will be either blocks or an add-a-leaf kit. The front will be done with strut spacers while also adding Upper Control Arms and a 3/4" differential drop kit to keep the upper ball joints and CV joints within factory specs. I am looking for something to help with the lower control arms, steering links, and sway bar end links or drop brackets to keep the rest of the suspension geometry in alignment. Does anyone have any sources for any of these components besides fabricating them?
  5. I have a 2018 Sierra 1500 Denali (6.2 liter, magna ride) and have had the upper left rear control arm nut come loose 2X in <10K miles. It was realigned by the dealer at 6000 miles, control arm bolt loose, now the wheel is turned slightly to the right when the control arm nut is tight. When the nut slips, the steering is very neutral and the wheel easily returns to center position. When bolt is tight (center wheel slightly to right) the steering is tight and slightly stays turned when you turn the wheel either direction at any speed. When loose the front end pops when turned to the left at wheel locked out, only noticed turned to the left, please note: the upper left rear control arm nut is the one that has come loose. I don't understand this front end with what I am told are the "concentrics?" but on my older cars the control arm bolt and nut tightens on a sleeve and rarely if ever comes loose. This is concerning, please help if you know what is happening? The control arm bolts have been all been re-torqued by the dealer and now the suspect bolt has a new nut and blue Loctite on it. It is popping again at 11,500 miles. I am told it is not the suspect bolt so I am asking for first hand knowledgeable help? It has now just started popping a few times at full left turn lock out position. It goes back into the shop at 16K miles for the oil change, no tire wear or gas mileage issues ever. My thinking is the upper control arm is miss-machined, also thinking that is on me? Thank you kindly!!!
  6. I have researched the 3 different types of control arms for the 14-18 trucks. I know the stamped steel Upper Control Arms do NOT have any support/retention for the upper ball joints should (when) they fail. But, do the stamped steel lower control arms also not have any retention/support for the ball joints to hold them in when they fail?
  7. In regards to leveling these new GMCs (mine: 2018) is there a definitive answer on what the issues are? And specifically how to avoid the issue? I have fine tooth combed every forum possible and it’s like throwing darts drunk. I've heard it'll blow out the ball joints, the electronic steering gear, tie rod ends, etc. I've heard don't go over 1.75", don't go over 2.5", and even 2.25" is the limit before you'll have issues. I've heard it's from installation errors... Like no support under control arm when you knock the knuckle to separate the ball joint and the sudden drop/slack causes damage. I've heard if you don't disconnect the electronic power steering harnesses or battery the shock from separating the ball joint can cause a spark that damages the EPS. I've talked to multiple 4x4 shops that install these and most say they've done hundreds/thousands with no issues, which of course I doubt. It's just too widespread of an issue. So does anyone know the secret recipe to a level kit that won't screw up the front end on these new GMCs? Is there anyone out there that's put a substantial amount of miles (25k or more) with their level kit with out the clicking, popping, etc? Sorry to beat a dead horse.
  8. Hello all, Long time reader, but just registered as I can't seem to find the answer to this questions. I have a 2014 Silverado Crew Cab (short box) 4x4. The truck has aluminum upper and lower control arms. I need to put new new ball joints on the truck, and I am having trouble determining which parts are going to fit / work best for this repair. I know that the upper control arms come as a complete unit with the new ball joint. However, I am starting to think that the aluminum lower control arms are going to require a complete replacement as well (as opposed to just pressing out the ball joint and pressing in the new one). Can someone confirm that this is the case? No one has the Aluminum upper control arms in stock, and I am wondering if I will run into problems simply replacing the aluminum control arms (upper and lower) with steel control arms? The truck has a 3" front leveling kit that was on the truck when I purchased it. I suspect that ball joints will likely need to be replaced every few years, and I don't really want to have to replace an entire lower control arm every time this happens. However, I don't know if there is a benefit to keeping the aluminum control arms? Will this cause any other issues with the truck's suspension, etc.???
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