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Showing results for tags 'control arm'.
Found 13 results
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I have a 2022 Silverado 1500 four-wheel-drive. The dealer ordered the 2 inch lift kit they offer and I’m waiting for it to come in and have it installed. But I noticed that the kit doesn’t come with upper control arms. Is that going to be a problem? (***UPDATE*** ) so I had the factory lift gm offers installed. When I picked it up, it looked great but as soon as I went to drive it off the lot. I could tell something was wrong it felt completely different. I figured it was just a break in period. But even after a day or two, I was getting crazy bad vibration at low speeds. Took it back. They ended up putting one of the U-bolts on wrong (I have pictures if wanted) they fix that and told me the vibration was gone. I get my keys go to drive away vibrations right back. I turn right back around. this time they have a mechanic ride with me. He clearly hears an feels a vibration, says somethings wrong so we turned around and he takes it back in. Three hours later they bring my truck back they had to remove the back blocks said there was no taper to them and it was messing up drive line. I got it back and the vibration is still there. (Now annoyed that only the front is lifted and still vibrating). I have them take the whole lift kit off. Put it back to stock. (Now remind you my truck has been down and I’m missing work for 5 days at this point) And after that Whole ordeal, I was done with the truck since I couldn’t have it how I wanted it and decided to trade it in and they made me a good deal on a 2023 5.3 LT.z71 I know many have gotten this lift installed said it worked out for some reason it did not for me. I’m much happier with the new truck.- 8 replies
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I have a 2015 ltz z71 premium crew cab 1500 and was wandering if changing my lower control arms from the stock aluminum to the cast steel will affect the truck at all. Or if the two control arms are interchangeable below is the pic of what the control arms look like after I changed them out. Still have to add the washer but looks like they will work? Everything fits correctly other than the balljoint bolt length
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Adding a zone 6.5 inch lift on my 2014 sierra. It has roughly 135k miles on engine. I just replaced front struts and sway bar links (even though kit comes with new links)..realized that after fact. I have steel cast control arms and curious what I should replace? A lot of people on facebook suggest the congnito or zone upper control arms but they are $500 just for the set. I was wondering if I could replace just the ball joints/tie rod ends when I install kit and then down the road replace UCA's with cognito...or is the stock cast steel control arm and ball joint all one piece? Meaning i cant just replace the ball joint? Just looking for some feedback and suggestions. i will have my son in truck a lot so that is why i want to be extra sure I have a solid front end. Any feedback, your pictures of 6.5 inch lifts, and experience with maintenance is appreciated. Been awhile since i posted on here!!
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I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 4x4 Crew Cab with the standard bed. I have the Rancho Quick-Lift front struts for the front that level the front about 2-1/4". I am looking at adding an additional 1" of lift front and rear. The rear will be either blocks or an add-a-leaf kit. The front will be done with strut spacers while also adding Upper Control Arms and a 3/4" differential drop kit to keep the upper ball joints and CV joints within factory specs. I am looking for something to help with the lower control arms, steering links, and sway bar end links or drop brackets to keep the rest of the suspension geometry in alignment. Does anyone have any sources for any of these components besides fabricating them?
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I have a 2018 Sierra 1500 Denali (6.2 liter, magna ride) and have had the upper left rear control arm nut come loose 2X in <10K miles. It was realigned by the dealer at 6000 miles, control arm bolt loose, now the wheel is turned slightly to the right when the control arm nut is tight. When the nut slips, the steering is very neutral and the wheel easily returns to center position. When bolt is tight (center wheel slightly to right) the steering is tight and slightly stays turned when you turn the wheel either direction at any speed. When loose the front end pops when turned to the left at wheel locked out, only noticed turned to the left, please note: the upper left rear control arm nut is the one that has come loose. I don't understand this front end with what I am told are the "concentrics?" but on my older cars the control arm bolt and nut tightens on a sleeve and rarely if ever comes loose. This is concerning, please help if you know what is happening? The control arm bolts have been all been re-torqued by the dealer and now the suspect bolt has a new nut and blue Loctite on it. It is popping again at 11,500 miles. I am told it is not the suspect bolt so I am asking for first hand knowledgeable help? It has now just started popping a few times at full left turn lock out position. It goes back into the shop at 16K miles for the oil change, no tire wear or gas mileage issues ever. My thinking is the upper control arm is miss-machined, also thinking that is on me? Thank you kindly!!!
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I have researched the 3 different types of control arms for the 14-18 trucks. I know the stamped steel Upper Control Arms do NOT have any support/retention for the upper ball joints should (when) they fail. But, do the stamped steel lower control arms also not have any retention/support for the ball joints to hold them in when they fail?
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In regards to leveling these new GMCs (mine: 2018) is there a definitive answer on what the issues are? And specifically how to avoid the issue? I have fine tooth combed every forum possible and it’s like throwing darts drunk. I've heard it'll blow out the ball joints, the electronic steering gear, tie rod ends, etc. I've heard don't go over 1.75", don't go over 2.5", and even 2.25" is the limit before you'll have issues. I've heard it's from installation errors... Like no support under control arm when you knock the knuckle to separate the ball joint and the sudden drop/slack causes damage. I've heard if you don't disconnect the electronic power steering harnesses or battery the shock from separating the ball joint can cause a spark that damages the EPS. I've talked to multiple 4x4 shops that install these and most say they've done hundreds/thousands with no issues, which of course I doubt. It's just too widespread of an issue. So does anyone know the secret recipe to a level kit that won't screw up the front end on these new GMCs? Is there anyone out there that's put a substantial amount of miles (25k or more) with their level kit with out the clicking, popping, etc? Sorry to beat a dead horse.
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Hello all, Long time reader, but just registered as I can't seem to find the answer to this questions. I have a 2014 Silverado Crew Cab (short box) 4x4. The truck has aluminum upper and lower control arms. I need to put new new ball joints on the truck, and I am having trouble determining which parts are going to fit / work best for this repair. I know that the upper control arms come as a complete unit with the new ball joint. However, I am starting to think that the aluminum lower control arms are going to require a complete replacement as well (as opposed to just pressing out the ball joint and pressing in the new one). Can someone confirm that this is the case? No one has the Aluminum upper control arms in stock, and I am wondering if I will run into problems simply replacing the aluminum control arms (upper and lower) with steel control arms? The truck has a 3" front leveling kit that was on the truck when I purchased it. I suspect that ball joints will likely need to be replaced every few years, and I don't really want to have to replace an entire lower control arm every time this happens. However, I don't know if there is a benefit to keeping the aluminum control arms? Will this cause any other issues with the truck's suspension, etc.??? -
Howdy guys! It has been awhile since I've posted anything as life has been crazy and the 2007 Avalanche 1500 2WD has been good. However, with almost 150,000 miles now, the front end is starting to feel loose and noises abound. I think it is time for some maintenance. I'm trying to determine what all I should replace. Might as well do it all while it is apart. All work will be performed by me in my garage. I know I've gotta replace the ball joints and tie rod ends. Upper ball joints aren't replaceable alone, have to replace the entire control arm. Going to get the control arms complete with ball joint and bushings. Might as well do the same for the lowers and make it easy on myself. What else should I replace? Pitman arm? Any other steering components? I was all bearings, joints, bushings to be replaced, I just don't know what all is down there. I'm also having some squeaking/squealing and I'm wondering if I should replace the front hubs. Maybe a front brake job while I'm at it?
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I want to know if someone have problems with a 2" level kit and stamped steel control arm. I heard that some people have the ball joint that pop out with 2.5 and 3" level. I wanted to install a 2" level kit and replace the rear block with a 2", but now I hesitate if I just install a 1.5 "level kit. -
I have a 2003 Yukon XL 1500 5.3L AWD and need to replace one of the lower ball joints. I looked at the control arm bushings and the inside lips of them are cracked with portions missing, but the thicker outside lips are solid. I have no noticeable symptoms, other than the up and down play of the ball joint. I've read some horror stories about some control arm bushing removal and replacement. The control arms are cast or forged steel, not the stamped or aluminum ones. Also, the bushings are the the solid rubber ones with no metal outer sleeve. The questions for you are: how much additional work is it to replace the bushings, and how much of a pain is it to press out and in the bushings with a handheld ball joint press? Also, I want to do this without having to do an alignment, and I am assuming that I might be able to get away with it, if I just do the ball joint. However, I am thinking that it would be necessary, if I do the bushings. Also, I understand that I need to release the tension from the torsion bar for the bushings or support the control arm for just the ball joint. I would appreciate your feedback on any or all of the above and any tips that you might have. Thanks for your help!
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I had all of these parts for my 2007 (NNBS) Silverado Z71 4x4. I have since sold the truck and no longer need the parts. All are brand new in the box. Bilstein 5100 Front Shocks for 2007-2013 Silverado / Sierra / Tahoe / Suburban / Yukon / Yukon XL / Escalade - $180 Shipped to lower 48 Part # 24-186940 Moog Upper Control Arms w/ Ball Joint (Left and Right Sides) - $150 Shipped to lower 48 Part# CK80669 & CK80670 Vehicle Application Guide Found here: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-ck80669 http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-ck80670 Moog Lower Ball Joints - $60 Shipped to lower 48 Part# K6541 Vehicle Application Guide Found here: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k6541 Moog Outer Tie Rod Ends - $40 Shipped to lower 48 Part# ES800223 Vehicle Application Guide Found here: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-es800223 Contact me via PM or email at: [email protected] -
I just replaced the upper control arm on the right side of my 2008 Silverado, but I would also have to add grease in it after installation right ? It has a hole with some threads inside, but I can't seem to see any grease nipple that goes in there. Is that a part I have to buy separately ? The one I removed did not have a hole at all
