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About fireaxxe

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    2021 Chevy Silverado RST “Warthog” edition

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  1. Just picked mine up from the dealership and was informed that they were able to recreate the crank no start issue and they “fixed” the problem. I was then told they updated the software and instantly my excitement faded away. They also did something to the regen cycle. It was in regen on the way home and I heard no knocking. In my state it takes 4 repair attempts and 20 days at dealership for the same issue to use lemon law, so one down 3 to go. Due to the fact that I am interested in a buyback I have to record every time I hit the start button for proof. Will post updates.
  2. I have also seen the “Service steering column lock” message but it was when the wheel was turned and once I put pressure on the steering wheel to take the weight off the column lock I heard it click and the truck started just fine. Message has never come back.
  3. I am FULLY aware there are no spark plugs in a Diesel engine. This is why I specifically said FUEL KNOCK. The timing of the Diesel engine is determined by the fuel delivery to the compression of the air that generates heat in the cylinder. In order to know when to deliver fuel the ecu looks at a number of sensors specifically the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor. So to reiterate my point, if there is an issue with the cam sensor this could cause not only a no start issue but also mistiming of the power stroke causing fuel knock and engine damage. I don’t think th
  4. There is something seriously wrong with these trucks. Yesterday while driving it went into regen and the engine was making the most god awful fuel knock I have ever heard. I am guessing if the cam sensor or reluctor/exciter wheel is the issue with the no start then the timing must be off while running at times as well. This would explain the fuel knock. I don’t believe the crank no start is the only issue related to this problem. There is no way this aluminum diesel will hold up to that. Yesterday I went to my purchasing dealer and requested a buy-back.
  5. Yes I have what I consider rough shifts every blue moon. I also have the intermittent fuel knock that someone mentioned earlier. GM has had ground (-) issues before. I’m starting to feel like this is a nostalgic feature to remind us what cars were like in the ‘80s. But seriously every time I’ve had a stupid intermittent issue like this it was either a bad or loose ground connection or wiring connector. And after finding my battery cables with barely any torque along with the fuse box, I am certain there are other loose connections. I’d also like to share both times my truck ‘crunk’ and no star
  6. It definitely is fuel related. Compression heat is purely mechanical. I agree that it is also electrical but not a hard electrical fault. There may be some type of signal issue. I would think that if it was a fault there would be some kind of information stored and possibly a CEL. It’s acting as if there is a fuel kill function being activated or going into anti-theft mode. This is why I am suspecting the key fob since it runs everything.
  7. Has anyone tried replacing the key fob battery? Maybe an intermittent weak signal or interference. I’ve replaced mine but not too confident this is the issue.
  8. Just happened to my truck for the second time @ 1863 miles. Hit button crank no start then starts second try. I am glad I caught this happening on my ring camera good evidence for my buy back arbitration.
  9. **Update** Test results came back and the fuel was good there is something else going on. Looking at requesting an injector QR code reset. Also developed a tapping at idle when hot. All the fuel knocking must have worn something out.
  10. I’m glad you posted these details because I feel like my issues are a voltage issue. I noticed a few times that it seemed my battery was low it would crank just a little slower when I tried to start up. Also my voltage gauge would read low most of the time. I went ahead and purchase an AGM battery charger and put it on overnight. When I did this I went to remove the negative battery cable and noticed the 10mm bolt to the battery post was loose it was also loose on the positive side. So instead of removing the cable, I tightened them both down and charged the battery with
  11. Same issue here 2021 RST Z71 3.0 Duramax 10 speed. Hit button, starter engaged ran for 15 seconds then stopped, truck didn’t start. Hit button again less than 10 seconds later then started. I checked the bolts on the fuse box in front of the battery and they were only about 25 in. Lbs. I set to 53 in. Lbs after finding this thread today. For anyone that has had the bent camshaft sensor exciter wheel was this accompanied with a Check Engine Light? And has anyone had the inspection only and DID NOT have a bent exciter cam sensor wheel? Lastly has anyone perso
  12. After researching a bit I found a few post and videos about the 3.0 liter Duramax and fuel knock. One person mentioned that he had the injector codes reflashed to the ECM and this solved his problem. I listened to the video and the sound was very similar to mine. https://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/threads/lm2-valve-clatter.84128/page-2 The video in post #39 sounded EXACTLY like my engine. Also see #35 the guy there explains the procedure and purpose behind resetting the fuel injector QR codes.
  13. **Update** I went ahead and contacted the Department of Agriculture and Consumer Protection here in my state. I told them the situation and they informed me they were sending an inspector out to the gas station where I filled up to collect a sample for data analysis. I also learned that if you submit a sample of fuel from your vehicle they will test this as well. Once everything is back from the lab I will receive both test results. I am hoping to eliminate the possibility that I got a tank of “bad fuel” and find the real problem.
  14. Don’t get me wrong it was bullet proof. But hated the noise, 0-60 in 20sec times and the diesel funk.
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