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midwestdenaliguy

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Everything posted by midwestdenaliguy

  1. Thanks for the reply. I figured it wasn't a big deal for the caps, but it shouldn't be an issue that they were compressed enough to cause the dent? Obviously they're designed to rotate, but didn't know if being compressed is a potential issue. Sounds like it's not, just want to be sure before I install them.
  2. I ordered new CV Axles for my 2016 Sierra. They were shipped to my door and arrived today. When I opened them I noticed the end caps for each axle had dents in them. It looks like they were compressed at some point and something internal caused the dent. The boots and everything else looked fine. They were double boxed and the boxes were fine. Is this something to be concerned about? See pics...
  3. Mike - I just sent you a PM about this head unit. I'm interested in one and am curious what your experience has been like!
  4. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on some front end parts. Baby #2 is due at the end of the month so I want to get this done now. Here is what I went with, keep in mind I have the cast (forged) steel UCAs and LCAs, so confirm which ones you have first before ordering anything - it can matter. Also, since my bushings and joints all need to be replaced I went with getting complete sets of everything, including the arms. To me the price difference was close enough to not have to deal with prying out ball joints or bushings - just quickly swap the entire assembly. I read all kinds of forums and watched review videos for a lot of brands. I feel confident with what I went with, just depends on how much you want to spend and how long you want your parts to last (if you plan to keep your truck a while or sell/trade in the near future). UCAs: Cognito 110-90295 (Amazon had a new pair on sale for $460). I liked that the ball joint could be easily replaced, 4 bolts vs pressed. LCAs: Moog RK620889 and RK620888 ($220 total on Amazon). Tie Rod Ends (outer): Kryptonite KR800948-2 (Bought as pair on Amazon for $105).
  5. I just replaced my 2.5" lift with another one, installed new brake rotors/pads, and replaced the front sway bar while I was working on the front end. I also have 33" tires. I went with the Hellwig front sway bar and Duralast gold sway bar end links. I'm a moog guy like you, but their end links were on back order and the Duralast gold end links have great reviews - so I went with them because I didn't have time to wait. $35 for the pair and it's a barrel nut design, super easy install. No noise and they've held tight so far. The Hellwig front sway bar is worth every penny. It's solid (unlike the hollow stock sway bar) and they angle the ends in a bit more so you get no rubbing from wider tires. The truck handles corners SO much better now, I love it. Next for me is to replace the control arms and outer tie rod ends. I'm at 170k miles and surprised the joints have held up this long. Following this thread to see what people recommend. Below are pics of the sway bar and end links installed as well as compared to the stock sway bar/end links.
  6. This dealership near me has 4 in stock and they'll ship to your house. https://www.gogmparts.com/oem-parts/gm-fuel-rail-crossover-tube-12677002 You might be able to get away with torqueing the line twice, but with shipping this should be under $50 to not chance it. Good luck.
  7. Man, I forgot about the spongy feel when I first got the truck. It's been tuned for so long I forgot what it was like in the 'before times' lol. The feel and sound is so satisfying after a tune and swapping out for a performance CAI and exhaust.
  8. I use it on my 6.2L and I'm happy with it. I purchased a custom tune from Diablew as well. He has you record a few logs, running on the highway, wide open throttle, etc. and then he takes that data and builds you a tune to optimize your preferences (towing, MPG, etc.). The Diablosport has canned tunes in them, and they're good, but your biggest gains will come from a custom tune. You can do more with HP Tuners, like CamGTP mentioned they use. But there is a learning curve and you have to purchase certificates to do certain things, so it can get pricey if you want to do a lot. You can also use HP Tuners on multiple vehicles if you want. Diablosport can only be used on one vehicle, it's tied to the VIN. So you have to buy a new unit for each vehicle if you want to keep the tune on them. If you want a quick option without a learning curve and only have one vehicle you want to use it on, then Diablosport is best for you. If you don't mind taking time to learn how to customize and may want to use it on other vehicles, then HP Tuners is best.
  9. The $184 camera has a larger viewing angle on all sides compared to the factory camera. So the question is, is paying $56 more for a slightly better and larger image worth it to you? I'm personally on the fence. I'd like to know how the $184 camera performs at night. To me that's where the factory camera is weakest. I'd gladly pay $184 if it's better at night.
  10. Resistors are only needed for blinker bulbs. My truck came with the factory LED head and tail lights so I only needed LED bulbs for the reverse lights in the tails and cargo/third brake lights.
  11. I just slid the rods between the seat and the back of the cabin. I ended up taking it out as it easily moved when people touched it. Didn't want to keep adjusting it. I also made no effort to secure it, so maybe you could find a way.
  12. You might already know or have all of this, but I did a write-up on replacing the 6.2L fuel injectors and lines. Included torq specs as well. Wasn't a bad job. Good luck.
  13. My guess is because the mounting screws on the ends of the housing are closer to the cargo lights they keep a tighter seal. While the middle where the brake light is has a weaker seal. Complete guess though. I'd replace your seal to be safe. First thing I did when I bought the truck was replace all the incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. I've never had any go out prematurely. If you replace them with incandescent bulbs don't touch them with your bare fingers, the oil on them can cause premature failure. I just replaced my cargo/brake light seal since the truck is now 6 years old and I go through a car wash about once a week. Don't want to take any chances with leaks into the cabin. It's cheap insurance.
  14. The trailer brake control module mounted under the bed (by the spare tire) gave me DIC messages. I can't recall if it was a wiring message though, I think it said 'service trailer brake system'. When I replaced it I noticed the pins were corroded, so I put bulb grease on the pins of the new one (dumb location as it gets covered with dirt and water). It didn't effect trailer lighting either. But it doesn't sound like this is the issue for you, figured I'd mention it though in case you run out of troubleshooting options. Part # for the module is 23337305. Good luck figuring it out.
  15. Thanks for the reply Mike! I also posted in a AutoSync Technical facebook group and got all my answers there. You can run just the AutoSync and a BCM unlock is not required. The key fob programming is built into the AutoSync, so BCM unlock is not required. They also confirmed ECM/TCM tunes are untouched, like you said (and yes I did delete the AFM with the tuner). Finally, the suspension OBII bypass module can be ran simultaneously with the AutoSync using their OBII splitter. Like you, they also said the BCM unlock is well worth the extra features. I'll look into that once I get the AutoSync and play around with it. Overall, what are some of your favorite features?
  16. Found a couple threads that talked about the AutoSync module, but couldn't find all my answers. Seems like an awesome tool to unlock a lot of new features. Here's a link to it: https://www.btdieselworks.com/collections/autosync/products/2015-2018-autosync. I have a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 6.2L and an I06 radio. Here are my questions: The AutoSync G2 K2xx (2014-2016) comes with pre-loaded features and purchasing BCM programming is *optional* if I want to gain additional features? Said another way, can I just get the AutoSync now and see if I like it's feature then get the BCM programming later if I want to add more features? My main reason to purchase the AutoSync was to program 2 new key fobs. Is that a feature built into the AutoSync or would I need to purchase the BCM programming as well? I currently have a custom tune on my truck (Diablo Tuner). Will installing the AutoSync erase my tune files? If so, can I put them back on and run both? I have a magneride suspension bypass kit from Xineering installed (lifted my truck and installed passive suspension). It is plugged into my OBII port at all times. If I get the OBII splitter can I keep both the suspension bypass kit and the AutoSync plugged in at the same time? What has been your experience overall with the AutoSync? Worth $300+? Thanks!
  17. Hi Luke, sorry for the delay. I don't have alerts set up. I have not done the notches yet. If you look at the existing notches you'll notice the bottom notch is shaped different in order to keep it from coming all the way out. You'd need to open that notch angle a little bit to match the notch above it. Then add as many notches as you want as long as they are close to the angle of the factory notches. On the most bottom notch you'd add, make sure it looks like the last notch from the factory (flat angle on the bottom side) so it doesn't slide all the way out. It's on my to do list, but life keeps interrupting lol. I'll circle back once I do it. A dremel and a die grinder bit should work just fine. Dremel also makes metal cutting discs, I'll probably start with those then smooth anything out with a die grinding bit. Good luck.
  18. You'll be spending between $1k-1.5k to install new Magneride shocks all around (depends on sales/availability). That can get you a nice aftermarket set up if you want to spend that much. To me, the Mag system is not worth the price for trucks/suvs (Corvette/Camaro is a different story). I've had Mag on my current truck (2016 Sierra Denali) and a 2008 Cadillac Escalade. Found aftermarket options that rode better. If you end up getting a bypass kit to remove the DIC error message, this will open you up to ALL aftermarket options and allow you to spend as little or as much as you want.
  19. I would assume it's the same, but ask them to be sure (http://xineering.com/index.html#CONTACT). They were AWESOME to work with on my Denali. Answered all my questions in a timely manner and made sure I was happy with the set up. Highly recommend Xineering's kit. I can also vouge for the Halo Lifts kit, I replaced all of my MRC system with their full kit and it's still going strong after 50k+ miles. Here's a review I did on my new wheel/suspension set up (at the time):
  20. JimCost2014 nailed it on the head with his first reply, it comes down to the service manager. I've lived in 6 different states and most service managers I've had were not great. I finally struck gold with the one I have now. There has been ~$7k of work done outside of warranties and I've only had to pay ~$500 out of pocket. My service manager got GM to cover the rest. So in my case GM covered 97% of all my repairs outside of warranty. Most of that total came from 2 major repairs, bent pushrod like you and both heads leaking coolant into the intake. The entire top end of my engine was rebuilt with new parts at around 72k miles (60k is warranty limit). If it wasn't for my service manager I would no longer be a GM owner. He's had my back the entire time I've owned this truck. Personally, I wouldn't settle for 30% from the dealership. I think you've got an argument that the camshaft had lobe issues after the first or second repair under warranty. It took a little while to show back up, but to have the same issue 3 times to me says it's more than coincidence. It's a negotiation at this point and the dealership gave you their first offer at 30%. I'd push for more help from them and ask they get GM involved as well and try to match their help at a minimum. Maybe you'll land at 40% dealership, 40% GM, 20% your pocket.
  21. +1 on this. It's not often, but it has happened a handful of times to my passenger mirror only over the 3 years I've owned the truck. Not enough of a problem for me to pull it apart or buy a new one, but it was the same issue you describe. Didn't hear any gears catching/stripping or a motor making a weird noise. I would guess it's an intermittent electrical issue where the mirror doesn't receive the signal. Mine didn't move or make a sound the few times it's happened. I just hit the button two more times to sync up both mirrors and it's always corrected itself. Sorry, not sure what exactly is going on.
  22. I've always thought the rear headrests were awful short and stubby in my 2016 Sierra Denali Crew Cab. For adult passengers and my kids once they are tall enough, I wanted a better option. After digging around in here I noticed that in pics of double/extended cabs the rear headrests were different and looked taller than my crew cab headrests. There are a few options on ebay and I found rear headrests from a double cab that match my black leather interior. Thought I'd show comparison pics of the crew cab headrests vs the double/extended cab headrests. You get about an inch more of coverage, so nothing spectacular but it is more. Headrests in good shape ranged from $50-$200 in my ebay search, so it all depends on how much you want to pay for the additional head coverage. Next on the to do list will be to add notches down the steel leg mounts to have them stay higher than the factory notches. I did notice the double/extended cab headrests stay locked in position much better than the crew cab ones. Why? I have no idea, but the crew cab ones would fall down even when going over a slight bump in the road. In the last pic I just slid the crew cab headrest legs behind the middle seat to have something there. It stays in position pretty good, won't be able to extend up but it doesn't move at all while driving.
  23. Assuming it's the factory battery, it would be ~4 years old at this point. You *might* get another year out of it so I would just replace it at this point. I've had batteries over the years do weird stuff that didn't quite make sense to me but once I replaced it the problem went away. If you find out it's not your battery after replacing it then you're not really out anything since it would be smart to replace it this year anyway. Start there then continue to diagnose if it still persists.
  24. The vacuum pump was redesigned and they replace the old one. If you have the issue the pedal will be REALLY hard to push down, intermittently. It happens at slower speeds and it feels like you're not going to stop, but it will if you push extremely hard on the pedal. I had to basically stand on mine when it happened. Was turning left from the street into a parking lot when the car in front of me stopped. Going about 10mph the pedal got really hard and I tried slamming on the pedal and eventually stood on it to stop just in time. Took it in the dealer the next day and they replaced the vacuum pump with a redesigned one. This was before the TSB was issued and I was out of warranty. A few months later they extended the warranty just for this issue and I was reimbursed by GM for the repairs (around $700). Because I stood on the pedal to get it to stop it ruptured the boot inside the brake booster. The truck stopped fine after the new vacuum pump was put in, but I had an annoying squeak from the booster. That got replaced as well. And as far as feel, it was the same before and after. The only difference is no intermittent hard brake pedal due to vacuum loss. Haven't had it happen since the new pump was put in ~50k miles ago.
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