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Found 5 results

  1. Hey everyone, thanks for the add! Got myself a 2016 Canyon SLE. I was wondering if anyone might have any ideas about something I've been looking through forums for before going to a shop. I was driving it to lunch and as I was turning, it completely stalled out on me. Battery was still on but no acceleration as if the engine cut off yet no indicators popped up on the dash. I quickly threw it in park, turned it off completely and restarted it no problem and its still driving smooth with no other issues. There anyone with the same problem before or ideas of what it might be?
  2. Good afternoon, Newbie to this site. We have inherited a 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 from a uncle who has passed away. It has 76000 miles on it and has been garage kept. Upon receiving it I had it looked over by Goodyear service center since I was concerned about the brakes. They found nothing wrong but sold me services that I really didn’t need....my fault there. The dealer found lots of problems with the brakes at a cost of 2500.00. They now work fine. The reason for that intro is I’m wondering if Goodyear service did something to my truck, some type of sabotage, like they did to me 20 years ago with some radiator hoses, so last night I went to move the truck to use another vehicle, it had no power, no lights of any kind, no instrument panel. So I trickle charged it all night. Come this morning the charger light was green so I tried to start it, again, no power. I tried jumping it with a electrical starter that I had bought my uncle for times like this. It would not jump, I tried that machines trickle feature and it sounded and flashed like a turn signal...tick....tick...tick, so I pulled the battery and had it tested. It had 9 volts and the service tech said things didn’t look right, so I bought a new battery. Now we come to the good part. Placed the new battery in, made sure it was clamped down, the terminals were protected with a battery spray, everything looked good and when I hooked up the terminals the horn would blare and the lights would flash causing me to jump. I tried postive first and then negative first, I checked fuses, I checked the grounds that I could find, all in a 100+ degree day. So I figure it electrical but not sure how to track it down. The vehicle is stock and has never had a problem like this before. I have read that changing out the neg. battery cable might work, but this seems a bit different. I still think it might be sabotage for more business from Goodyear, but I hope not. Any ideas on where to start looking or things to check to provide more clues? Thanks to all.
  3. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package. It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood. My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working. I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17). I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power. The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing. I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing. Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box? Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing.
  4. I'm an idiot, I went to install a new battery and put it in backwards. I put in in correctly and had no power. I replaced the 175A mega fuse, but still, no power. I'm not sure what else to do next. I gotta get to work in the morning.
  5. I had a strange problem with my '03 GMC Sierra but was able to figure it out and thought I'd post a summary in case someone else can benefit from it. The symptoms were random and odd. The ABS/Brake dash lights would come on every couple weeks and the chime would go off a million times, then started happening more often and finally started happening when I'd turn the key to the "on" position before starting the engine. I figured it had something to do with the ABS module maybe and would look into it, except that when it got really bad it was at the same time my A/C blower and electric windows wouldn't work. AND, the transmission would go into "limp mode" and stay in third gear. I figured it had to be related since it all started going bad within one day, then the truck wouldn't start at all, luckily in front of my house. I suspected the ignition switch since that's a place where multiple components are powered. I grabbed a good used switch (I work at a wrecking yard) and swapped it out and that didn't help so I checked power to the switch. One wire was hot going to the switch but when I rotated the wheel to acc and on positions only a ocuple wires lit up out of eight! Good switch but power not being distributed. Turns out that there's two power wires that go to the switch, in my case both red wires (some schematics show red and red/wht) and the other red wire was dead. I checked it at the fuse box and it had power, probed the wire from the fuse box to as far as I could toward the fire wall and had power, then started at the switch and probed the wire past the big connector under the dash as far back to the firewall as I could and it was good (continuity test). So I decided I had a bad power wire at the firewall somewhere. In my book this is weird, I've never had something like that happen before, but the bad wire was buried in the wire loom so much that I decided to cut the wire at both ends and solder a new "patch" in. Everything worked! The A/C and windows have worked perfectly for three weeks and the transmission never showed a problem again. The only disappointment has been the ABS/Brake lights lighting up once in the past three weeks. Not sure what to think about that yet. Sorry for the long explanation but I think it's all important. Hopefully no one else ever has this problem... Dan
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