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Found 4 results

  1. After 1 month of owning my new 2019 AT4 without any issues, I had the Nav SD card not installed error. The next day, the nav system went through s long loading process. Since then, with every vehicle startup, I now have a 10-25 second process of the nav system loading before it can be used. Previously, it was always nearly instantaneous. Also, the radio will be randomly self-muted. I brought it to the dealer last week and they did an infotainment system software update claiming to have fixed the problem. Nope, it’s still taking 10-20 seconds to load navigation and the radio was muted this morning. Anyone with 2019 Sierra AT4’s or Denali’s noticing a change in navigation loading, specifically now seeing loading screens where there haven’t been before? Is this just normal Nav function and somehow, for some reason, I just didn’t have it happen or didn’t notice it the first month? Could GMC pushed an OTA update that now cause the Nav to take longer to load?
  2. I have an interesting overheating problem with my 1990 C3500 Silverado 7.4L. I recently bought the truck from an uncle who, I'm guessing, screwed me on the deal... We use the truck to tow our travel trailer (22ft. roughly 5000lb). Prior to our first voyage out, we drove the truck around town to make sure everything worked well. After a few trips to our main hike spot I noticed the truck would run warm, 220-240, for a short time and then spike down to 210. I assumed it was the thermostat sticking. So I replaced the thermostat with a 180 degree unit. I topped off the coolant in the reservoir and it seemed to have fixed the problem. We went on our first trip, now pulling the trailer, and at our halfway point, I got off the freeway to fill up the truck. about 20 seconds after we dropped our speed below 30 mph the truck spiked, redlining above 260. After starting it up, it quickly started to overheat again until we hit the freeway speeds and all was good. This behavior continued up until we hit our destination. Thankfully, my mechanic brother-in-law was camping with us. He thought it was the fan clutch but after looking at the radiator, I was about 2.5 gallons low on coolant. Since we were out camping, I used the rest of the gallon I had and filled the rest up with water. Brother-in-law said the water pump looked like it was running good and it might have just been under-filled when my uncle replaced the radiator. Ran ok until we slowed down off the freeway. It looked like the coolant would get hot and boiling out of the reservoir. I just kept topping off the radiator and driving home (picked up coolant 50/50 on the way back) Looked at it at home and noticed a leak above the drain valve. Tightened the valve about 1/4 turn, filled up the radiator and again the truck ran fine until our next trip. Same problems, had someone bring out a new radiator cap since it looked like the coolant was not being pulled back into the radiator. Coming back we had the same problem. I since replaced the hose from the radiator to the reservoir and "burped" the system by running the truck and squeezing the upper radiator hose until the coolant level would no longer drop in the radiator. The oil looks really clean (not milky or showing signs of water/bubbles). Coolant looks clean and I have topped of the radiator last with concentrate coolant to account for the water I added before. So I don't think it's the head gasket. I rotated the fan with the truck off and it stopped immediately after letting go. There wasn't any play when I tried moving the fan around so I don't think it's the fan/fan clutch. I hear an electric fan on when it's overheating/hot and the fan clutch kick in when its really hot. Rather than purchasing a bunch of new parts I thought I would get on here and ask a couple questions and see if anyone might have some things to try out. Would having enough air in the cooling system keep the coolant from being sucked back into the radiator? Could the fan clutch not be engaging at a low enough temperature? If the radiator is a 2 core, would that cause the coolant to boil enough to cause an air gap that would then keep coolant from being pulled back into the radiator? This truck was originally purchased new by my grandpa in 1991. He was a mechanic and took amazing care of the thing (all receipts). My Uncle purchased it from him a couple years back and I believe it was just sitting on his property for most of the time.
  3. hello everyone I have a 97 GMC Sierra with a 305 and electronic shift trans it has a lot of issues that I'm trying to sort out first of all on cold start it idles super low (200- 400 rpms) for a few seconds and then picks up and shudders and shakes for a minuet then goes to normal idle once it warms up it stars to drop to low rpms (any where between 100 to 400) and dies out when I rev it it revs super slow and hesitates when I go to drive it it falls on its face on take off it kinda cuts out at first but slowly and I mean slowly picks up speed all the while it back fires and slightly lunges now once I get moving the trans doesnt want to shift until I let off the gas no matter the throttle position and the speedometer jumps around like crazy and never shows my correct speed the brake and ABS light are on sometimes they go off but normally on look at the videos to see how bad it is any help would be great so far I have replaced the plugs and wires cleaned the cap replaced the button and the TPS cleaned the MAF sensor and cleaned the trans speed sensor videos:
  4. Fail: Girl Spends 10+ Minutes Trying to Close Knife
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