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Found 5 results

  1. What's the easiest way to tap into the turn signal(s)? I installed amber LEDs onto the side of my tool box/back rack with one functioning as a running light (tapped into 7 pin) and the others as turn signal(s) I had originally planned on splicing the turn signals at the harness but realized the green/yellow wires also send brake signal and therefore would light up the turn signal LED's anytime I hit the brakes. I referenced the BCM wiring diagram and tapped into the front turn signal wires. Turn Signal (Left) blue/white (F); yellow/blue ® + BCM under driver dash, brown 26 pin plug, pins 2, 1 Turn Signal (Right) green/purple (F); brown/green ® + BCM under driver dash, black 26 pin plug, pins 3, 4 All was fine for 2 weeks, running lights and turn signals worked perfectly. Today, when I turned the truck on and used a blinker, I got the dreaded "hyper flash" and DIC message indicating I had a front turn signal issue. I've pulled the wires from the BCM while I resolve the issue. My questions are as follows: 1) What/Where is the best place to tap into the turn signals. I'm only running 1 x 6" LED per side, I can't imagine the draw being that great, although from other threads, I know the BCM is a fickle beast. 2) Would installing a diode (Fogs/Highs - Reverse/Cargo) between BCM and the hot/"+" for the LED's help if the BCM is the best place? 3) OR: is the "hyper flash" issue something that could be resolved with load resistors which are the from all post issue research are design to eliminate this problem, traditionally in headlights where LED bulbs are swapped in. And of course, because every thread is worthless without pictures, here's the truck with the amber running lights on.
  2. Hey Everyone, Have a weird one here on my 2015 Silverado LTZ. Running light (right side only) isn't working, but brake/reverse/blinker all do. Replaced the following with no luck: Relay 63 Fuses 28 and 29 Junction Block - Part number 23208491 Right wiring harness - Part 22869169 (replaced because I broke the dang clip taking it apart) All of the other wires at the junction plate appeared to be in good condition. Vehicle is stock. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Both of the park lights/DRLs on my 2015 Suburban (138k miles) are only half light. As shown in the picture, specifically the outer 4 LEDs on each side. I grabbed this screenshot from a video posted on Youtube with minimal comments as to a fix other then replace by dealer and adding a ground... does anyone else have this problem or found a fix? I have checked the Fuses and relay and all seem to be okay. I also think it is a little bit strange that both sides are out at the same time... YouTube Video (not mine): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDAHWteRDeE
  4. Please help. Just replaced factory headlight assemblies and bulbs in a 2016 Chevy Silverado Rally Edition (broken in an accident) with Anzo 111375 headlight assemblies and HID bulbs/ballast (Phillips). Lights work fine (hi and low), the LED running lights work, but my battery keeps going dead overnight. (Yes, the running lights are turned off.) Chevy dealership/service department says there's a 3000 mA draw from the headlights when turned off. Recommends buying GM headlight assemblies ($860 apiece). Anzo says they've never had a problem. Said possibly bad circuitry in one of the lights. Chevy mechanic says you can't unplug one to identify which one because it creates an open circuit. Others have said hooey. Any thoughts on the problem and how to fix?! I can't return the Anzo lights because I had them painted. Don't want to buy another set if they won't work either. Anything I can do?
  5. From the album: Rob Fox Silverado

    LED daytime running lights
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