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worktruck2011

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worktruck2011 last won the day on December 26 2011

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About worktruck2011

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  1. Has anyone hooked up dual alternators in a 1500 Silverado? I'm dealing with a 2011 that has a 5.3. Apparently GM used to have a factory plate for older generations of the Silverado to add the second alternator. I've found a 3rd party selling an adapter plate, idler pulley and belts for $215 but it seems awfully pricey for what they're selling.
  2. Having work on a friends Nissan, I really dislike their engineering. I would probably never consider their trucks for that reason.
  3. I don't see a video, but the transfer case is noisy and makes a grinding sound whenever 4wd is engaged with the Silverado. I had to drive a few brand new trucks before I could believe that's just the way GM makes them.
  4. You provided a wiring harness that they didn't use. Then they ran into problems and wanted you to pay extra to install the part they were given to begin with? I'd tell them to take a long walk off a tall cliff.
  5. Did you get this fixed? I'm guessing you used an impact wrench and broke the retaining bolt free.
  6. Thanks for the replies, I'm not a suspension / lift expert. I get the wear on tires and other components, but want to avoid any transmission or transfer case related wear if possible. That being said, I just drive a stock pickup. I think it would be cool to lift a truck but with IFS, doing it right seems like a major pain. Why screw with a lift kit if you'll kill your transmission components? Maybe there is a way to go independent rear and front and still lift it as much as you want?
  7. If you went with a system like this: http://bulletproofsuspension.net/chevy-gmc-1500-10-12-inch-lift-kit-2/... what are the downsides besides having to climb into your vehicle and having a higher center of gravity?
  8. This forum should just have a thread to scroll through... The gallery is painful to view anything in. I put mine on the tool box because it wasn't a reverse decal, and would easily come off a window.
  9. Those "orange corner lights" are normally called "turn signals"
  10. I'd assume you could carefully drill out the cylinder and then force it to the start position so it could be removed. There is probably a way to remove it without destroying it, but I don't think that matters if you're going to buy a replacement cylinder with new keys.
  11. Maybe this will help anyone who has a truck that turns over, but won't start. P1682 is the code on the computer... Here are the technical details on this code: P1682 Chevrolet Description There are 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits supplied to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The first ignition circuit is provided by the powertrain relay, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage circuit supplies power to all the internal ECM circuits associated with the throttle actuator control (TAC) operation. The second ignition 1 voltage circuit is supplied by the run/crank relay through a fuse, and is used to power the remaining internal ECM circuits. If the ECM detects a voltage difference between the 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits, DTC P1682 will set. P1682 Chevrolet - Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 Possible causes - Faulty ignition switch - Ignition Switch harness is open or shorted - Ignition Switch circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) When is the code detected? The ECM has detected a voltage diference between two circuits Possible symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Possible no crank or start I decided to replace the ignition switch because that's what other people had done and it was cheaper than a dealership diagnostic. Besides this one code, my instrument console also threw up warnings about servicing the traction control, anti-lock brake system and some other alarming messages. Including that the engine power was reduced! The ignition switch on my 2011 Silverado is part # 40 in this diagram: To get at it you probably need to drop the interior trim panel below the steering column. Once that's done you need to pull out the steering wheel tilt lever part #20. It should unplug strait out with a screwdriver. Then you unclip the plastic shroud part #22 and #1 Then you unclip the connector going to the Key Chip Sensor #2. And unclip the wiring harness that plugs into the ignition switch. CAUTION: You might have a red plastic locking clip in the harness that needs to be disengaged before the connector will come out. The next step is to remove the lock cylinder. You'll need a pick. Here is a video of someone doing it on a similar vehicle: You can then unclip the Key Chip Sensor #2 and set it aside. You will then have to unhook the white key sensor that that's mounted on the ignition switch case #3 you just removed the key cylinder from. You'll need a small screw driver to push on a plastic tab to unlock it. Once that's done it should rotate easily for removal. If you break it off, it's not a big deal since it's part of the ignition switch you're replacing... even so, I'd practice on this one so you'll be better at removing it if need be in a later step: You can now remove the ignition switch. You'll need two small screw drivers or nails to push into the two square holes to the left and right of the "black hole" shown in the picture below: This video is also good to watch before starting this project: Now the ignition switch I pulled out of my 2011 Silverado was GM Part #25733005 ; D1485F (DO NOT USE) The dealership I contacted said that part had been replaced with GM Part# 22887691 which makes sense since the previous one died. Hopefully the new part lasts longer! Installing the switch is pretty much a reverse of the original process. The only issue is that you need to get your ignition cylinder and the switch gears aligned properly. I had to remove and replace the ignition switch and lock cylinder (and the key security chip reader) a few times before I was able to get the gears on the switch to be correct. (The guy in the second video explains how to align it, but I either didn't pay close enough attention or couldn't do it quite right) You'll also need to clear the code once your vehicle is working again. Hope this helps someone else!
  12. Don't have any experience with this...but a 2010 should still be under a 5 year / 100,000 mile power train warranty unless you drive an insane amount per year.
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