Update: Dealership says the negative battery cable needs to be replaced to the tune of $300. GM customer service says that this MUST be a different issue than the recall fixed even though the symptoms are the same and they aren't going to pay for it. They gave me a $100 service voucher which they tell me isn't good to pay the diagnostic fee. Now I have to pay the $99 diagnostic fee plus a $35 loaner car fee just to pick my truck up without being fixed. The battery cable is $51 and I can replace it myself. This is not what I expect of a 3 year old vehicle with 47K miles. NOT happy with GM right now. Edit: Just picked up my truck and the technician's notes say that the battery cable distribution block needs to be replaced NOT the negative battery cable as the service advisor told me. The part number they list is 23375728. GMpartsdirect lists part number 23375728 but shows it as discontinued. That tells me that GM knows there was a problem with this part since they discontinued it and superseded it with another one. Since it causes the same symptoms that they issued a recall for, it should be covered under the recall.
Thanks @tistre1. I contacted GMC customer service this evening to document the issue and will be calling the dealership in the morning. Did you have to pay for the additional repairs out of pocket?
aflesch started following New 2014 GM Truck Recall Covers Electric Steering Glitch
Add me to the list of trucks not fixed by the recall. The behavior changed but I still lose power steering. The reprogramming just makes it so that when the issue occurs it doesn't jerk the steering wheel out of your hand; you still lose power steering though. The issue occurs in conjunction with another wierd electrical issue: activating a turn signal cancels the cruise control. Neither issue occurs unless I have been driving for more than 45 minutes which tells me it's a temperature related issue. I have corrected the G218 ground issue and it didn't change anything.
aflesch replied to zmnypit's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsSo, I've been following this topic for a while and finally had some time to play around with a circuit to turn the DRL off when the turn signal is flashing. I have no idea what Gen5 is working on but I got this circuit to work in a simulator. V1 is the DRL switched power supply. V2 is the flashing signal in the light harness for the turn signal. The "Turn Cancel" switch is not an actual circuit item; I just used it to simulate the turn signal being shut off at t=10s. "Turn" is the turn signal LED R3 is the LED load resistor to prevent hyperflash. C1 is a capacitor that is charged by the turn signal every time it flashes. D2 prevents the capacitor from providing power to the turn signal LED when the flasher in in between flashes and after it is shut off. R1 controls the rate of discharge of the capacitor to be longer than the duration of the flash. This keeps the voltage to the base of the NPN transistor above the "on threshold" even when the flasher is in between flashes. R2 limits the emitter current of the transistor. As long as the "on threshold" is met, the transistor allows current to flow through the relay coil, disconnecting the DRL LED power supply. When the turn signal is turned off (simulated by opening the "Turn Cancel" switch at t=10s) the capacitor fully discharges and the transistor switches off, releasing the relay, and restoring power to the DRL LED. The TVS Diode prevents the high voltage spike generated by the magnetic field of the relay coil collapsing when it is turned off.
It sounds like the park pawl shaft is broken. That will give you this problem. It can be fixed in the transmission pan without removing the transmission. You will have to pull the pan to verify though.
That's not necessarily true. The computer monitors input shaft speed vs output shaft speed and it knows what the current gear ratio should be. If the IS vs OS ratio is wrong it will throw that code which could be a mechanical failure (slipping clutches among other things).
That doesn't do my any good when I'm making short trips throughout the day and that 4 mile counter resets every time I shut the truck off. I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one who has noticed this.
So I have noticed something weird about the way my outside temp display behaves. The company I work for has multiple buildings in the same industrial park and throughout the day I have to drive between them several times for various reasons. I started noticing that sometimes the temp display would update and sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes after 3-4 trips throughout the day (sometimes running for almost and hour while I was inside) it would still read the temp that it showed when I arrived at work at 8am; but other times it would read the current temperature. I started paying very close attention to when this would happen and here are my findings: If the truck has not been sitting with the key out of the ignition for more than 3 hours, the temp display does not update until you have driven 3 miles. I know this sounds really weird but it does this consistently. So when I would make 3 or 4 trips during the day (none more that 3 hours apart) the temp would not update from the 8am temp until I was 3 miles from work on my way home. I think the weirdest part is that there is no time override. Meaning, no matter how long the truck sits and idles the temp still will not update until I have driven 3 miles. Has anybody else noticed this in their truck?
aflesch replied to SonomaVortec's question in Ask the GM TechnicianAgreed. You will most likely be fine if you replace the intake manifold gasket and put it back together. At that point you can do a block test just for piece of mind. If the block test does show a bad head gasket it really isn't all that much work to get the intake back off.
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