zmnypit

Relay style harness? Maybe a bad relay

Alright guys I have a couple sets of headlight (need to verify how many exactly) adapters left then that's all for now. Life has been so busy its a balancing act as of lately so probably wont be building anymore anytime soon. I will add a list below of all parts needed for anyone looking to this this themselves. All parts can be ordered through Mouser or Waytek and try to answer any questions. Headlight adapters: Old side (14-15) 38383 - Male Connector OEM part # 15326655 30472 - 20ga Male Terminals OEM part # 15304730 39036 - Yellow cable seal OEM part # 15366066 39039 - White cavity plug OEM part # 15305170 New Light side (16-18) 38411- Molex MX150 female connector OEM part # 33472-0801 30096 - Male terminal - OEM part # 3300-1002 Uxcell 10pcs 16v 4700uF capacitors (amazon) 20ga wire 50w 6ohm resistors (amazon) 1/2" wire loom solder Wire schematic: new light: BK - Ground YE - Low Beam WH - High Beam VT/GY - Parking Lamp D-BU/WH - Turn Signal GY/D-BU - DRL Old light: BK - Ground YE - Low Beam WH - High Beam VT/GY - Parking lamp D-BU/WH - Turn Signal GY-D-BU - DRL I'm not going to post a full detailed how to but basically you need roughly 12" of each wire then pin them in the correct slots. You can find the schematics on gmupfitter for the pin slots. The capacitor will go between the low beam and ground and the resistor between the turn signal and ground. If you plan on cutting the factory plug for the new one all you will need is the capacitor, resistor, new plug and the terminals.

The best LED fix for the 14-15 trucks is the factory 16-18 led headlights. Night and day difference. Not the cheapest option but well worth it if you plan on keeping the truck.

You will need 50w 3ohm or 100w 3ohm for the taillights. The resistor goes between the turn lamp and ground wires. If you're swapping for the 16-18 taillights you will need to swap the plugs as well. Just cut the new one off and splice the old style plug on the new taillights. New lights: Ye/L-GN - Stop/Turn lamp Ye/BK - Not used (lamp outage signal) L-GN/WH - Backup light VT/GY -Parking Lamp BK - Ground Old lights: Ye/BU - Stop/Turn lamp GN/WH - Backup light VT/GY - Parking Lamp BK - Ground

22x12 American Force with 35x12.50x22 Toyo's. Truck is a denali. Maybe you have better roads?? My buddies high country with same lift I have and factory 20s with 35'' nittos rides the same way. You put a trailer with a load behind them its almost scary at times. I'll mess with it this winter more then likely. I dont have the time to tear it down right now thats why I was hoping there was a kit available. https://www.dieselplace.com/threads/torsion-bar-delete-coilover.925802/ https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-drivetrain-suspension-22/ditched-torsion-bars-coilovers-hd-504605/

I saw that. Im looking for more of just a bracket kit without having to fab it myself. Something similar to what atomic fab offers for the older body styles. I already have a-arms/lift so really only need the upper and lower brackets. If I get time this coming up winter I may tear it down, make templates then have the parts plasma cut.

Ride quality that's why. Not concerned about resale value and the truck rides like a pulp wood truck on these roads around here before and after the RC 3.5". Pulling my track machine or boat and hit an Alabama pothole you better be holding on or you're going through the windshield.

who sells or has done a torsion bar delete to coilover on a 15-19 HD 4wd? I've seen a few older body style trucks done and doesn't look much different from the the newer trucks.

wrong section. Sorry

Put the RC 3.5" on my truck a few months ago and it rode stiff at first now the front end feels like a 60's model Lincoln. When driving the interstate it has that old car bounce in the front. Its hard to explain but its like a bounce/float feeling when hitting bad spots in the road. Would different shocks fix this or am I stuck with it on the RC 3.5?

I had to take a flat head screwdriver and bend each pin inside the connector outward a fuzz. I've done this on two trucks now and its fixed both. I tried the swapping plugs on the trailer, fuses etc and nothing. Bent the tabs out where contact is now made with the trailer harness and all is well.

I just recently swapped tire sizes now running a 35x12.50x20 and my speedo is off around 3-4mph at 70mph. I see rough country has a calibrator but my question is what happens when its flashed over my efi live auto cal? Duramax truck. I dont think I can just send my tuner in anymore and have it updated since the crackdown.

The rough country 3.5". The bumper spacer I used a nut and washer like the last page of the link above.

Well after alot of cussing, cutting, and bending 22x12s and 35s are on. Got one small rub on the passenger side rear that I'll zip tie back once the UCAs come in. I did end up trimming the bumper about 1" in and 5" up so it's barely noticeable

https://www.duramaxforum.com/threads/2015-bumper-mod.557538/