zmnypit

If anyone is interested I found a complete set cleaning up my basement yesterday evening. Can ship out at lunch just PM me. This is the last set I will have. $90 shipped Thanks!

3 sec is being on the low side. Its had about 4 relearns already. Just last week it had Fast Adapt Learn with SPS performed clutch learn with GDS according to the receipt I got. Did not fix it. Made it home from the dealership, parked in the driveway then left 45min later to pickup my daughter and delay was there. Doesnt seem to only happen after sitting overnight.

I am. Spent hrs and hrs tuning LS cars back in the mid-late 2000s. Unfortunately my car was broken into and my laptop/cables stolen. I reached out to HPtuners about replacements but they wanted me to buy all my licenses again as well as new cables etc so I opted out. Anyways, its at the dealership right now. They called this morning and stating they have an open case with GM technical assistance on how to proceed that it defiantly wasn't normal. Will update once I find out more.

Anyone experienced the delay in Reverse on the 8spd trans? Happens after sitting for an hr or so like its losing pressure has has to build back up. You can get in, start it, then put in reverse and the engine will just rev for 3-5 secs before moving. Its been in and out of 2 dealerships for over 2yrs now with the same issue. Finally called GM customer care and got the ball moving on trying to get this resolved. Dealerships say they cant replicate it or they had to reprogram the TCM/ECM which does absolutely nothing.

Relay style harness? Maybe a bad relay

Alright guys I have a couple sets of headlight (need to verify how many exactly) adapters left then that's all for now. Life has been so busy its a balancing act as of lately so probably wont be building anymore anytime soon. I will add a list below of all parts needed for anyone looking to this this themselves. All parts can be ordered through Mouser or Waytek and try to answer any questions. Headlight adapters: Old side (14-15) 38383 - Male Connector OEM part # 15326655 30472 - 20ga Male Terminals OEM part # 15304730 39036 - Yellow cable seal OEM part # 15366066 39039 - White cavity plug OEM part # 15305170 New Light side (16-18) 38411- Molex MX150 female connector OEM part # 33472-0801 30096 - Male terminal - OEM part # 3300-1002 Uxcell 10pcs 16v 4700uF capacitors (amazon) 20ga wire 50w 6ohm resistors (amazon) 1/2" wire loom solder Wire schematic: new light: BK - Ground YE - Low Beam WH - High Beam VT/GY - Parking Lamp D-BU/WH - Turn Signal GY/D-BU - DRL Old light: BK - Ground YE - Low Beam WH - High Beam VT/GY - Parking lamp D-BU/WH - Turn Signal GY-D-BU - DRL I'm not going to post a full detailed how to but basically you need roughly 12" of each wire then pin them in the correct slots. You can find the schematics on gmupfitter for the pin slots. The capacitor will go between the low beam and ground and the resistor between the turn signal and ground. If you plan on cutting the factory plug for the new one all you will need is the capacitor, resistor, new plug and the terminals.

The best LED fix for the 14-15 trucks is the factory 16-18 led headlights. Night and day difference. Not the cheapest option but well worth it if you plan on keeping the truck.

You will need 50w 3ohm or 100w 3ohm for the taillights. The resistor goes between the turn lamp and ground wires. If you're swapping for the 16-18 taillights you will need to swap the plugs as well. Just cut the new one off and splice the old style plug on the new taillights. New lights: Ye/L-GN - Stop/Turn lamp Ye/BK - Not used (lamp outage signal) L-GN/WH - Backup light VT/GY -Parking Lamp BK - Ground Old lights: Ye/BU - Stop/Turn lamp GN/WH - Backup light VT/GY - Parking Lamp BK - Ground

22x12 American Force with 35x12.50x22 Toyo's. Truck is a denali. Maybe you have better roads?? My buddies high country with same lift I have and factory 20s with 35'' nittos rides the same way. You put a trailer with a load behind them its almost scary at times. I'll mess with it this winter more then likely. I dont have the time to tear it down right now thats why I was hoping there was a kit available. https://www.dieselplace.com/threads/torsion-bar-delete-coilover.925802/ https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-drivetrain-suspension-22/ditched-torsion-bars-coilovers-hd-504605/

I saw that. Im looking for more of just a bracket kit without having to fab it myself. Something similar to what atomic fab offers for the older body styles. I already have a-arms/lift so really only need the upper and lower brackets. If I get time this coming up winter I may tear it down, make templates then have the parts plasma cut.

Ride quality that's why. Not concerned about resale value and the truck rides like a pulp wood truck on these roads around here before and after the RC 3.5". Pulling my track machine or boat and hit an Alabama pothole you better be holding on or you're going through the windshield.

who sells or has done a torsion bar delete to coilover on a 15-19 HD 4wd? I've seen a few older body style trucks done and doesn't look much different from the the newer trucks.

wrong section. Sorry

Put the RC 3.5" on my truck a few months ago and it rode stiff at first now the front end feels like a 60's model Lincoln. When driving the interstate it has that old car bounce in the front. Its hard to explain but its like a bounce/float feeling when hitting bad spots in the road. Would different shocks fix this or am I stuck with it on the RC 3.5?

I had to take a flat head screwdriver and bend each pin inside the connector outward a fuzz. I've done this on two trucks now and its fixed both. I tried the swapping plugs on the trailer, fuses etc and nothing. Bent the tabs out where contact is now made with the trailer harness and all is well.