Brianx220

While this may not make sense to most who drive these trucks. Yes the transmission can be tuned with the engine so they both work together. I drive mine in manual when I need it. Once both are tuned you can actually use the +- buttons to drive the truck on the desired gear at any time. The truck isn’t stupid so if you shift too far down it won’t shift until your driving at the speed it needs to downshift. Ex: 6th down to 3rd or even 2nd while your driving 50MPH the truck will downshift to 3rd but not 2nd as it is an unsafe shift at that speed. I race my truck at the track and it out performs other trucks just like it while in manual but If I race it in Drive it just isn’t as fast compared to manual because it likes to shift before your ready or it maxes out the RPM gauge and slows down to catch the next shift. You can use the +- to shift when you want it to shift. This being said, Paddle shifters are a great thing to have. It has holes behind the wheel where they can fit without losing your radio controls

Has anyone been able to resolve this issue? Chevy has told me it's normal time and time again but now at 106K miles it got louder and this time when I dont hear it the check engine light remains off and give it about 30 miles later the ringing/Chattering gets louder and the check engine light comes on. Obviously theres a code being generated but some how no one knows what it is because the code is a rough idle code... its frustrating to say the least...

Im guessing mine is having the same problem.. P050D is popping up 87K miles old. this is frustrating because it was just misfiring on cylinder 4 a month ago with code P0300 (Random/Multiple cylinder misfire) of course took it in to the dealer i bought the truck from had it serviced and now this.. 2 codes P219 and P050D.. all in the same week that it was just serviced for P050D.. took it back to the dealer only for them to of course deny everything as the all do i imagine.. but then said they will look at it for me but it will cost me the diagnostic fee.. why would i pay that again if i already paid for the misfire issue... im loosing fait in GM to be honest. My Dad's old Tundra at 120K miles is still runing properly with all original parts yet mine is becoming a money hole... please let me know if there is any way to fix this myself.

I thought the same, that maybe GM would wise up and fix it but apparently even some 2017s are having the same problem. Lucky for them is most are still under the 36K mile warranty. As for me, my 2014 has been a great truck for about 83500 miles and now this. The simple fact that we don’t use the A/C that often made me think more of the system needing a reset rather than anything mechanical like freon or actuators needing replacement.

Update: So I took it to the dealer again and that was a waste of time because apparently nothing is wrong with it. So I took matters in my own hands and started pulling the HVAC and the Dual Climate control fuses and took the battery off for approximately 2 minuets and put it back together and turned it over to see what happens. Not sure what fixed it weather pulling the fuses or pulling the positive terminal but now everything works properly. Just for anyone who has the same issue this is a quick fix the dealers will charge you for. Thank god for the internet lol.

You bring up a good point. My battery did die and we replaced it but since I drive witch my windows open I never noticed it until my GF asked me why the heater was on and I’m chillin in the cool air lol so I will try and pull the battery for 20 seconds I guess and reset the system. Maybe it works?

It’s odd that one day my A/C works fine and the other it blows hot to the max air out of the passenger side and cold to the max on the driver side. Defroster isn’t working properly either because when I have it on it just blows air out of the regular vents. Took it to the dealer and they say it could be running out of free-on but that wouldn’t cause it to blow hot as hell air out of one side and cold as hell air on the other no matter what temp setting you have it set. It’s a ‘14 I don’t think it should be having these issues plus we ride with Windows down most of the time.

Hello. Were you able to figure this out? I have a 2014 Silverado that recently has been having battery issues and since then the system pops up a Service Theft Deterrent system message and has a little car with a lock on it and the check engine lights on too... but even with all this the truck turns on and drives as it should but the lights are still on no matter how many times I unlock or lock with the remote and I did unplug the battery for about 60 seconds but the lights do not go away. The truck is also 4 years old and has 78K miles on it so no warranty so I want to see what I can do to fix it myself or if I really do need to take it in....

The LED Flashes when the signal is on but they are off when parking lights are on. And yes they are wired in Parallel to the regular bulbs. They only com3 back on if I take the halogen out of circuit and back to square one. Maybe the halogen is drawing too much power? I'm not sure what's going on...

Ok so here is what I have tried. I've installed several led load resistors I mean 2 per light and no dice. I've wired in halogen bulbs to get it to flash the LED properly, nope the halogen works fine but LEDs turned off completely. Now I'm wanting to just give up on wiring and trying to see what is clicking when you have the signals on it has to have a relay because you can hear it clicking away right where the fuse box is.