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Found 16 results

  1. Has anyone experienced a similar issue? I have a 2019 Silverado trail boss and when you turn the fan on, whether it’s ac or heater, there is a noise that is not normal. It comes from the passenger side inside the dash area. It’s not a loud noise and if the stereo is on you won’t hear it. It sounds like the fan motor is off. I wouldn’t bother taking it in if all trucks made the noise but they don’t. I had the dealership take me in another trail boss and there was no sound, just normal wind sound. They changed a bearing saying that was the issue but it is still making the same noise. The second time I brought it in they said they are reporting it to GM. I brought it in today and the service desk worker said it’s “normal”. I asked why the others don’t make the noise and he said it’s “normal”. Obviously not normal or they would all make the same sound. Anyone know what it is??
  2. I’ve had my Lt Trailboss for just a few days now and it seems like the Hvac blower is louder than it should be. Has anyone had any issues with this? I had a 2017 Silverado before but never noticed the noise. It’s possible that because the interior is so much quieter that I’m just noticing it more. If anyone has any info on this I would appreciate it.
  3. I have a 2017 Denali and have had since new. I noticed that lately the HVAC blower fan cycles on and off while the truck is turned off, just after driving it. Does anyone know why this is happening. I've noticed that the amp meter is charging more and not dropping down like it used to when the truck is new. I was wondering if the battery is circling the drain and not providing enough amperage. I also noted that after the truck was parked for a couple of weeks, the compass settings on the Navi changed. Thanks in advance for the help.
  4. A few days ago I turned the key to start my 2014 Silverado LTZ 4x4(51,000 miles), when it hit the accessory position my AC delco battery EXPLODED under my hood (spewing acid all over, the whole 9 yards). No, I don't have anything extra hooked to my battery at all. Anyway, this blew one of the main fuses coming directly off the battery in which I had to replace that entire fuse board. Bought a new battery, start the truck, radio screen not on. Found that little yellow blown fuse on the passenger side, fixed that. Now, for the life of me, I can not find the source of my last problem which is my A/C blower motor will not come on at all.All the lights come on the a/c controller by the radio. I figured it would be another fuse but the ones I checked were ok(maybe I'm missing one?). I stabbed a test light in the red wire going to the blower motor and its getting power. It would be hard for me to believe that the blower motor went bad since it was otherwise working fine before this battery failure. What am I missing? Thank you in advance.
  5. Hi there, I have been having an issue with the HVAC in my 2002 GMC Sierra 2500HD duramax w/ auto climate control. The blower would intermittently stop working from time and time, and sometimes would work fine for days. However just recently it stopped working altogether, right during a cold snap of course! After researching all over the net, I learned the most common problem was the blower motor resistor (or in my case the HVAC control module). So I replaced it hoping for a quick fix. But still didn't work. Ive tried disconnecting the battery and resetting the system, ive checked voltage all over and the control module is getting power but is not sending power to the blower. I bench tested the blower and it works fine. All fuses are good. I'm not sure what else to look for. I am at the point where I'm considering taking it in, but of course due to the holidays I cant get my truck in to any shop until the new year, if I haven't froze to death by then. Any help would be greatly appreciated! The picture is to show the type of control module I have. (Pictured is the old one, new one is identical)
  6. I had the problem that a lot of people have had with their blower motor resistor. basically, all of a sudden, your heater blower stays on ALL THE TIME, and you have to pull the fuse and replace the Blower Motor Resistor. So, I went to change it out, and i found out that since i have the HD model, there is AUTO temp control, so i had to buy the $90 one. Ok, so i did that, and replaced it. Well, now the blower motor doesnt stay on all the time, so that's good. The problem now is there is no vent control, and no air coming out of ANYWHERE. I have FULL blower control, with all the fan speeds working, but no air. I know the blower is working, because I can hear it doing what the control panel is telling it to. I can feel the heat, and if I let it sit for long enough it will warm up in the cabin, but it's just from air seeping out, not from any legitimate airflow. I am seriously losing my mind with this truck lately... any suggestions would be really great. also, is it possible that the new motor resistor, while fixing the heat-staying-on issue, somehow is the wrong resistor, and maybe causing something else to go haywire?? I got it at Autozone, so i doubt that it's the wrong model, but still....thanks
  7. So I am all about scouring forums and finding what I need to know to fix the problem at hand. And I'm fully aware the HVAC actuator topics have been beat to death, but I haven't seen whats going on with mine described anywhere, so here goes... 2005 GMC Sierra Ext Cab, Z71, manual Dual climate controls (temp slide levers, turn dial for blower speed and mode select) Last year, i changed out the blend door actuator for the drivers side, the one over the transmission hump. No problem. Typical symptoms, heat randomly on driver side, clicking sound...easy fix. Then, in August of this year, i smelled burning plastic from the vents, looked it up and found the blower motor resistor TSB. Local dealer fixed that for free. All good. But now, something different is going on. 2 weeks ago, I got in my truck to head home and noticed the air conditioner wasn't on and my vents were blowing hot air. Tried turning on the a/c, but nothing happened when I hit the button. No light, nothing. I then realized nothing on the control unit responded at all except the blower speed. So, I went researching...best answer i could arrive at was i had a bad HVAC control module. I replaced that. No change, same thing. Back to square one. Just for clarity, here's what is happening. The only thing that responds in any way is the blower motor speed and it does work on all speeds, so I don't think this is related to the resistor...I don't think? The A/C, Recirculation and Rear defrost buttons all are unresponsive (no lights, no function). The air is coming from my dash vents, blowing hot on driver side and just outside temperature air on passenger side. Even if I turn the blower off, when driving, the air still moves through the vents (unforced, blower is off) at the hot and room temps as I just mentioned. I was able to unplug the mode door actuator, manually move the mode door to defrost and feet, so that provides a little relief from the hot air blowing in my face. However, if I plug it back in, as soon as it gets power, it automatically indexes back to the dash vent position. Someone please help and tell me you have some idea of what to do. I don't want to take it to a dealer, but I am running out of options and none of the local part stores have a scanner that can read body/HVAC codes. Or if someone has a schematic of the HVAC wiring/could help me figure out how to diagnose the issue by checking voltages over on the passenger side panel where all the actuator wiring joins. Any help is appreciated!
  8. Folks, Good day and thanks for taking the time to read my post. I have a 2002 GMC HD2500 with the 6.0 gas and I can't get the air to come out of the vents in the cab. The blower has all its speeds, you can hear it run but I can't seem to get the air to come out of the vents. I do believe I have a broken vacuum hose leading into the control box for the vents. At least that is how things worked in the old days. If this is true, I have looked all over the firewall and cannot find any vacuum hoses that go through the firewall into the cab. Does anyone know if the HVAC doors are still controlled by vacuum in the 2002 Sierra 2500 HD? If so, any idea where the line is hiding out? I just heard that the HVAC control system for this vehicle may be all electronic. So it comes down to the actual actuator or the control head. Has any one experience in this area? Thank you to all that take the time to read these posts. We really do appreciate you! Chris
  9. Sorry if something similar has already been posted but I haven't found a solution that works. My 2004 Silverado 1500 LS, 5.3L Vortec is giving me all kinds of fits. Would be happy to elaborate the long story but going for the short to start with. I have been having problems with hitting the key and nothing but a dash reset; this has been intermittent since the first of the year and usually would clear itself up. When this happens I get all kinds of weird lights and messages but no codes. It would usually clear itself up within a couple of days then I could drive for a few weeks with no problems. I did notice that sometimes when it happened the blower was left on when trying to start it but didn't seem to be tied to weather. The two worst instances, one a snow storm and the other 80+ degrees. Two weeks ago I forgot to turn the air off and when I started the truck to go home the check engine light was on, the ABS light was on and the brake light was on; I also noticed that the air was still on but the blower wasn't working. The truck would barely move itself. I turned everything off and started it again but had the same symptoms. It barely limped home and started the no attempt to start problem again. I read the codes and had 740, 753, 758, 785 and 2761. Did some research and found that if you get all these codes the most common fix was the ignition switch and this was confirmed by a mechanic after he looked it up in his resources. Logically everything made since that the problem was most likely the ignition switch, it wasn't unless O'Reilly's sold me a bad switch. Here are some things I have tried: The battery is a year old and has been checked but I think there still may be a problem with it. I had to do a relearn on the security because I replaced the PCM so I hooked a charger up as suggested. After the relearn the key would bump the motor but that was it. I found if I held the key it would bump, wait a few seconds then bump again and repeat the cycle. I left the charger on and over time the cycle would shorten. Finally I went out and the engine turned over like normal, started and the charger indicated the battery had a full charge. I checked all the fuses and relays I replaced the starter a couple of months ago thinking it might of had a dead spot, it failed with the new starter the same day I replaced it. I had the bright idea of running a wire from the S post of the starter to the top of the motor to attach a remote switch. When the no attempt to start problem occurred I used a remote switch and it would start and immediately shut off (theft deterrent I suppose) but if I used the remote switch and key switch at the same time it would start but the truck would not move so I expect the transmission was not being energized. I replaced the ignition switch, I assume I have it in correctly because the switch seems to work. I did try moving the gear a notch or two both directions and got less than desirable results. I replaced the PCM last night and did the security relearn; I get the same results with the new PCM as I do the old. I have swapped them out a couple of times today with no difference and now they both show the same transmission codes. Right now the truck will start with just the key but will not move. The check engine light is on with the codes being the transmission codes listed above. The ABS light is on and the Brake light is on (the parking brake is not set) and the heat/air blower does not work. Is there another ?CM module that could be causing these problems? Aren't you glad I didn't go into the long story? Thanks Chris
  10. I just bought a used 2001 Sierra 1500SLT 4x4. I am so excited I have this cool truck. There is one thing that has me baffled, that is that after I stop and shut everything off, something like 15 minutes later, the blower motor starts up and runs for about 5 seconds then stops. Then it waits between 15 and 20 minutes (never really timed it) the blower runs again. I suspect it goes on all night? Anyone else ever heard of those happening? The Dodges and Fords I have had ever did anything like this. Is this a normal operation for GMC trucks? Any idea who I can go to, to explain this or recommend a fix if it is not supposed to do it?
  11. Hey guys, I've had this 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 6.0 L gasser for about a year now. It has the auto climate control with the push button selector for the blower direction control. It just recently started blowing out only the defrost and foot well vents, but it won't blow out the face vents. Any ideas??
  12. 2005 Silverado 1500, base fleet with the 5.3- I was driving down I-65, and all of a sudden, sensor gauges all went out, gear selector, etc- but speedo, tach, and odometer still worked. Same time, air conditioning went out- still blows air, but no A/C. The gauges would occasionally reset to normal, but would shortly after die. Saw the security light flash as well as the brake indicator light. As I was hauling furniture, and had the dog with me, I was hesitant to stop, as the truck was driving just fine, and feared it would not restart due to a security feature. Fortunately (maybe?) this is not the case- truck cranks just fine, but gauges don't function at all at this point. I had had the cluster rebuilt in april due to faulty speedo step motor, so first thing, tried to clean out the plugs and contacts off of that to ensure that was not the issue. Ran into an interesting issue when I was replacing the cleaned cluster back in the dash- Now, when the truck is off, key out, and blower switch on: if I hit the brakes, or turn on the hazards, the blower turns on. It even cycles with the lights on hazard (on when lights are flashed, disengages when lights are off. When the key is in, and the hazards or right turn signal are on, the indicator lights stay lit. Turn the key off, they function as normal. Air bag in picture is normal- vehicle was in previous collision, and the previous owner replaced the air bag on driver side with a plain cover. As this electrical line literally spans the length of the truck, and I have already checked fuses and breakers and the connector for the cluster, any one got any ideas where the likely point of failure(s) is? I am thinking ignition switch is likely culprit, but unsure how to diagnose.
  13. I have a 2008 NBS crewcab 5.3 4x4 with digital dual climate control. I recently started having trouble with my ac not working right. Didn't think much of it at first as it was almost like a voltage type issue with the fan blower slowing slightly on occasion under different engine loads. Started getting worse, with a lot of sporadic panting, and now very seldom works correctly, sometimes even not at all. Does not matter if its on auto or manual. Seems like right when you start the truck it works strong and correctly for about 3-4 minutes, then it goes to panting and quits. If I turn it to manual and hit the max fan button it will come back on but not always the strongest level. Levels below 4 seem to pretty much turn the fan off. There is an odd light clicking/clunking that I get back in the dash, could just be an actuator motor. Sometime it sounds like a motor that is getting ticked on and off sometimes too. I did install a new radio a month ago, AC seemed to work fine directly after. I know some of the older silverados could get messed up with the harnesses that you used on them. I have installed a new blower control module (resistor). This did not fix it. I know there are at least a couple fairly cheap sensors that are involved, but I am leaning toward it being the actual head control in the dash. What do you guys think? Watch this video, and turn it up. Any help is appreciated. [media=560x315]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGymxNl9y2w[/media]
  14. Got in my truck the other day and the blower switch did nothing on any setting. The motors on the vents etc work ok and the fuse is good. Checked w the dealer and my truck wasn't part of the resistor recall. What's next in my trouble shooting quest? Where do I look for the blower motor wiring? Thanks
  15. My ABS light and parking brake light only come on when my blower is turned to 1,2,3,or 4 and the blower wont work(no air). But if my blower is turned to 0 both lights turn off. If i turn the blower to speed 5 the blower pumps at max like normal and both lights turn off. Brake fluid level is good and the A/C works ice cold(usual) only when blower works at level 5. Help please?
  16. Came through work today. Biggest freakin blower I've ever seen. Threw my extra large glove on top for reference. Blower weighed in at 490lbs. What is this monster off of?
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