At the track today and brought a fan to plug in the bed and put on the tailgate to cool off. Only works when truck is running. Got exist combined with a fan aren't fun. Anybody have schematics or more info on what it might take to use it with the truck off or on accessory?
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It is slightly different. I just did mine yesterday and its easy. Took about 20 minutes without really knowing what I was getting into. I did not cut my flaps. I just removed the bracket that is behind the flap and drilled two holes vertically, and ziptied it back to the frame behind it. I gained about an inch, and I dont think you can tell anything from the outside. You can get a ziptie around the plastic behind the wheel well plastic without taking anything off. Use a serious ziptie, Turn the wheel so its close and you can use something to pry the fender away from the tire, while pulling the ziptie to hold it in place. Got a little less than an inch up front now.
Harness plugs into bose behind back seat mounted to wall. I saw another thread that if you cut some of the foam back there you can mount the amp on the wall with the bose stuff. Foam is not the seat foam, I think its a sound, or vibration isolation foam that is between the seat and the wall.
Thanks. I didnt measure the volume, because it was bigger than my last box and it sounded good before. Guessing a tad over 1 cubic foot by my rough calculation and memory. I have built so many boxes, many of them undersized with foam in them, and I can't hardly tell the difference. I guess I burnt out the frequencies that I'm missing with a smaller box. Its a 10", I was going to do down firing like my last box, but it would have been tighter on airspace, and the location of the speaker would have been pushed way closer to the front. Also didnt want to mess with feet, or cutouts along the edges. Dont guess it would have mattered. I like downfiring for protection of the speaker, sound is subjective. Had several boxes like this one firing up at the back wall and they sounded ok. Still dont have my harness so I dont even know. Factory bose is ok, but I think the door speakers are over worked and it just wont hit the lowest frequencies so this is just to relieve those speakers and round out the sound.
Couple reasons I guess. I dont like hitting that button everytime i get in, it was annoying. I really was jarred by the slight hesitation and feeling the engine die when I came to a stop. It wasnt ever really consistent either. I think start up is one of the harshest things on an engine, and I think this will be an issue down the road for longterm owners and maintenance on this truck. Less than regular startup wear, because the engine is hot and has oil already coating everything, but still more wear on engine and stress on battery, maybe AC etc. I think its a gimmick like AFM. I have had 2 trucks fail due to what I think was AFM on previous 5.3s. Stuck lifters and worn cam shafts etc. As soon as somebody figures out a way to turn it off on this truck I will. I have had probably 6 or 7 5.3L GM vehicles since they came out in 99.
Those angles can be off quite a bit on some of the lifts me and a buddy have done. Sometimes helps to take the nut/clip off to get it started, then pry it straight, or hold it with pliers as it begins to seat when you tighten it up. They will snug up and that part of the strut will seat flat again. Some lifts require swapping from drivers side to pasenger side depending on the top spacer, and this can throw that bottom angle off the other way. And you can turn the bottoms separate from the top 180, as the other guys mentioned.
Installed an autostop eliminator saw some potential in the dash. Also wanted to tidy up some wires by moving the usb and usb c port behind the dash. Previous Silverados had cubby holes in the cheaper models that you could buy and replace the USB port, but there’s no such thing in these new ones. I decided to take a plunge and cut a hole in my dash, then 3d printed a prototype cubby hole. I cleaned up the print a little but I think I’ll do another high quality print and really try to make it match the other dash pieces. Rerouted the usb cables through the side cubby of the console which is nice so wires aren’t all over the place our have to dig them out of the console. Turned out pretty good!
I am looking for a center floor console. One the salvage sites there are 2 options. One for memory card reader, and one without. Does anybody know if there are any physical differences between the two? Is the one with the memory card reader mean thats the one that will have usb and sd card reader? I dont care about the card reader, but I would like to plug my phone in under there for android auto. I am thinking I can probably wire something up to get the plug from the dash to the console if I need to. I about to go pick up a 2020 with jumper seat and storage below. If anybody is interested in a swap let me know.
Went and got a new fan at lunch. That's what it was! Cost $100 from autozone, but the install is stupid easy. Two screws to pull the cover and then pull a tab down and twist the motor assembly out. I have had a drill or other motors that have done similar on/off kind of actions but they usually completely die and never come back. This was particularly odd because of the continuous intermittent issues over the last couple weeks. Glad I didn't go chasing sensors. What brand were you getting? Under warranty I assume factory parts? Maybe I'll have better luck with Autozone. If they do, I didn't notice it. I had a '99 and an '04 and changed or cleaned those on occasion, which seemed to help some.
I have a 2008 NBS crewcab 5.3 4x4 with digital dual climate control. I recently started having trouble with my ac not working right. Didn't think much of it at first as it was almost like a voltage type issue with the fan blower slowing slightly on occasion under different engine loads. Started getting worse, with a lot of sporadic panting, and now very seldom works correctly, sometimes even not at all. Does not matter if its on auto or manual. Seems like right when you start the truck it works strong and correctly for about 3-4 minutes, then it goes to panting and quits. If I turn it to manual and hit the max fan button it will come back on but not always the strongest level. Levels below 4 seem to pretty much turn the fan off. There is an odd light clicking/clunking that I get back in the dash, could just be an actuator motor. Sometime it sounds like a motor that is getting ticked on and off sometimes too. I did install a new radio a month ago, AC seemed to work fine directly after. I know some of the older silverados could get messed up with the harnesses that you used on them. I have installed a new blower control module (resistor). This did not fix it. I know there are at least a couple fairly cheap sensors that are involved, but I am leaning toward it being the actual head control in the dash. What do you guys think? Watch this video, and turn it up. Any help is appreciated. [media=560x315]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGymxNl9y2w[/media]
I would wonder about the workability, and weldability of the conduit. Its so thin that it might be harder to bend in a cheap bender, and harder to weld as well because its not a mild steel. Mine ended up probably around 25 -30lbs. I hung them by myself without a problem. I have seen some of the 3" bars on some trucks and I think they look good on the crewcab lwb trucks for sure, but they seem a little heavy on the half ton swb or less than crew cabs. I was born in raised in Jacksonville tx. Now in Aledo, by Weatherford. Ive done stuff out of conduit before without any problems. Just turn the MIG way down. I live 20 miles from Jacksonville, and my wife grew up there. the world gets smaller everyday. Your wife and mine probably went to school together. She used to be a Russell.
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