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mikeyk101

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Everything posted by mikeyk101

  1. It appears based on what I see that the screen is showing 2.3 for the left side and 2.0 for the right side. After going through his post, he mentions that the left side should be more positive than the right side and I think that is what is being shown. Also if you look, you will see the high spec on the outside on each side and the low spec on the inside.
  2. Especially after Grumpy Bears suggestions and looking at your printout, I still think it's an alignment issue. Your Cross Camber is 0⁰ and Cross Caster is -0.1⁰ which agrees with his suggestion of being within a quarter difference. My Cross Camber is .4⁰ and Cross Caster is .5⁰ which even though falls within "specs" is more than a quarter difference. Before rebalancing the tires, which were somehow fine before the level install, I'm going to reach out to the dealership I should have gone to first. They do have experience and have been very helpful in the past. They might have some further insight on what is going on. Thank you for your info and printout of your alignment results. I also have to ask, did your place balk at all over adjusting the camber and caster? My thoughts are that my place which is always extremely busy, just doesnt want to do the work.
  3. Well I finally got a chance to get back for a recheck of the alignment. Unfortunately I didnt get anything changed. I was told that even though some of the specs were at the very end of being still in spec, that changing them to center spec would still probably not correct my high speed shake. They said something about the caster and camber could be adjusted but they are locked by pins??? And that it would be more trouble than it was worth. They also suggested that because a level kit was added, that the factory specs may no longer apply and that different specs may now be in play but that they could only set the alignment to original factory specs. I call BS... They said that it might possibly need a shim kit, or a change if the UCA, or a strut change but that even doing this, it would probably not fix my high speed shake. They also said that the tires may need to be rebalanced and that maybe I threw a weight but that the alignment would not fix the shake. I tried explaining that prior to adding the level kit, I didnt have any shake since the first couple months of owning this truck and that the dealership fixed it by changing the psi from 32 to 35 for all the tires. They recommend that I might want to take it to a dealership as they might have a better solution. They also said that if the dealership corrects it by adjusting the alignment, get a detailed receipt and that they would honor it as part if their 1 year alignment warranty. And if it needs something else, to let them know so they can have that information for the future. I was originally going to let a dealership handle the install. I found a dealership up in Burlington WI, not too far from me that advertises that they install level and lift kits. They were going to do everything for about $360 or so but of course, I knew better and figured I could save some money and install myself and then just need an alignment. Seeing that they have experience in leveled and lifted trucks, I'm going to reach out to them and see if they can solve my issue... Ugggggh!
  4. Well it looks like I am making a trip back to have some more adjustments made. After reading Grumpy Bear's response, I think I understand a bit better now. After looking a little closer at my printout, I see that it appears only the Toe was adjusted. And I didnt realize that the Caster especially on the LF is barely in spec and doesnt seem to have beeen touched at all. I did set all the tires at 35psi today and got a chance to get out on the highway. I'm still having a noticeable vibration around 80. I did run it up to 85 and 90 for a little bit to check but it didnt seem to go away. It was fine before the level and alignment. I will have a discussion with them and have them set everything as close to center spec as they can. In hoping that will take care of the high speed vibrations...
  5. I have a Quad cab short bed LT 4x4 and still have the stock 20" wheels 275/55R20. I recently did a RC 2" level. Prior to the level kit, I had very minimal vibration. During first year I had it, I did have a little more and took it to dealership. They rebalanced the wheels and the tech raised the pressure in all the tires to 35psi. This pretty much eliminated all the vibration except for occasionally very minor but wasnt very noticeable. I dont drive it very often so it was a couple weeks before taking it in for an alignment. Prior to the alignment, I noticed the steering wheel was turned a bit to the right while going straight. I think I put about 200 miles onto the truck prior to the alignment. I noticed that there was a slight increase of vibrations at higher speeds. After the alignment, I noticed quite a bit of vibration at 80mph. It would start at about 75 and very noticeable at 80. I didnt go faster than that so I dont know if it would settle down at even higher speeds. When I got a chance, I took a look at the alignment report which was kind of a waste of time because it was all Greek to me. I noticed the the before for Toe was in red but everything else was green. The actual adjustments were all green which assume means it's now in spec. It also appears only the Toe on both fronts were adjusted. I also noticed that on the rear, the right seemed to be left alone but the toe on the left was adjusted. On another sheet I got, it showed that the tire pressure was adjusted down to 32psi on all the wheels. All the tires measured out to 8/32 on tread depth and the truck has just over 38,000 miles on it. Shortly after starting the first trip on the highway after the alignment, I noticed that the right fronts were reading 33psi, the left rear was at 32 and the right rear was at 31. I picked up an air gauge about 75 miles into the trip and compared the readings on the DIC. The fronts were at 35 hot so I brought those up to 37. The left rear, I also added 3psi to bring it from 34 to 37. And the right rear, I added 4psi to bring it from 33 to 37. I know I need to go back and adjust them cold but haven't had a chance. The vibration did seem to be a better but dropped from around 80mph to around 72-73 and seemed to be ok at 80 now. I am fully aware of the vibration problem as it has been discussed over and over again on this forum but mine seemed to be pretty much ok overall pre level kit running 35psi. The only things that have changed were adding the level kit and the alignment. So can anyone shed any light on what might be happening and what you think about my post alignment values? I really like the look from the level kit and really want it to work...
  6. Is there any other way to access the stake pocket switch location than from the top? I have a topper on and I had previously installed stake pocket covers prior to having my topper put on. I dont quite remember how it looks in there.
  7. Just looking for clarification between steps 8 and 9. So after turning ignition back on, when not touching HVAC controls for 3 minutes and then testing temps, am I right in assuming that means the HVAC system should be off, then turn it on and test temps? Or should the HVAC be on for the 3 minutes without touching or adjusting the controls and then test the temps. Also when testing, should it be set to auto, or another setting?
  8. When traveling with my dogs, I always put them in the bed. I have a rubber mat on the floor to keep them from sliding around and have a topper on it. I have the sliding rear window on the cab and the windows are tinted. I usually have the slider opened as well as front window on the topper so I can try to keep an eye on them. Besides the bed lights, I have a dome light on the topper that is hooked up via the bed lights. At night, especially with the tinted cab sliding window, it is very hard to see what they are doing back there. I knew that while moving, just pushing the cargo light switch wouldnt work. Just for kicks, I tried switching into neutral while rolling down the road, and sure enough, the bed lights and topper dome light came on. Now I can check on them any time I want at night.
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