mikeyk101

Ok, now I have confirmation from Equal-izer. Here is their response: The hitch isn't designed to take out all of the sag in the rear end. 2" of sag is totally normal and acceptable. Do get rid of the sag beyond that you would get air bags. So now I know the next step...

So I decided to also reach out to Equal-Izer to get their thoughts. When describing what is happening, I was told to go through the adjustment process again and that I needed more weight going to front axle. That would seem like the logical answer. But then on my next response, I sent a copy of the CAT scale ticket and their response on that was that I am within the specifications which I pretty much figured and others here have agreed with. I then asked for their thoughts to eliminate or at least reduce the sag. I mentioned the Air Lift bags I have. I am waiting to see what their response will be and will update when I get it. I am just guessing but I think it will probably agree with other responses on here that it is probably going to help. I apologize and it may seem to a few that I'm not listening to your responses because I tend to experience a bit of OCD and try to get as much confirmation before I do stuff like this. But I'm pretty confident that this is going to get solved.

I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the app but still end up with the older style. Oh well. But I did notice that if I press and hold the shortcut icon before even opening the app, I get the choices of Lock, Unlock, Start, and Stop. And I had same result with lock and unlock, much quicker now.

Google Play doesn't show any updates and mine is still the "old" version. It would be nice to get that update.

True, I have seen a lot of good things about them but I already have the Air Lift 5000 bags.I picked them up as an open box complete for a fraction of new. I think I now have enough info to make the decision to install them.

Not trying to discount what you are saying, I'm really trying to get as much info as I can to figure out which way to go.

Interesting. Your setup is very similar to mine. Here is my ticket with the weight distribution below yours. I would have to say I don't think there is much more adjustments to be done so...

Not concerned about weight on axles, those seem to be as they should. Fenders are not high either. They are at same height whether hitched with WD or unhitched. Tongue weight is fine at between 650-700lbs. (650 as checked in driveway and 700 at scales) That is about as low as I want to go as the trailer is at around 5400 so tongue weight is around 12-13% and I don't think I should go much less. To get trailer load adjusted to allow a rise on rear of truck would cause tongue weight to probably be under a safe percentage. The only thing in trailer that might affect tongue weight would be my 1200lb trike but there isn't really any room to move it. The main weight of trike is close to over the tandem axles and it can't be moved further back and be able to close the ramp. I do understand the rake from the factory concept but I wanted 275/60R20 wheels so the level kit was needed. The biggest thing is driving after sundown. This is obviously because of the nose up (not fenders too high) when hitched. The last time towing trailer at night the headlights were aiming too high and I had plenty of folks flashing their brights at me. I could aim them so that doesn't happen when towing but most of my daily driving is without trailer and they are then going to be too low. Constantly adjusting headlight aim would be a problem.

From everything I find and read, the hitch is set up properly. The front wheel well height is dead on after WD. The trailer is essentially level. The difference in weight on front axle with WD should be more than 50% between unhitched and hitched with no WD. Since unhitched is 3420lbs and hitched with no WD is 3140lb, the target weight is 3280lbs and I'm at 3380lbs which is actually about 85% more than no WD. Although I still have about 120lbs of wiggle room before front GAVW, I don't think I should try to adjust any more weight to front. I'm still thinking that the front leveling kit is throwing off my setup and air bags are going to be the solution. Like I also mentioned above, I don't really want to raise the rear level, just control the sag. And from last 2 posts, about 15psi could be a great help. Thanks

Your truck numbers are not far off from what I have. I am not really looking at "lifting" the rear so much as limiting the sag. I saw on a you tube video that its not a good idea to raise rear to original height after hooking up the WDH. It would require a lot of air and then a rough ride. IIRC, The idea is to increase air before hitching and just when rear starts to rise. I think he settled on about 25psi. Then deflate the bags, hook up hitch and then increase just under the 25psi. He ends up about an inch lower than original height. Thatbwould be just about right for me but I would have too experiment.. So your 15psi falls right in line with that as well. So it is starting to look like I now have my next project. Thanks.

This is the one I have. It has spring bars that attach to "L" brackets on side of trailer frame. I could move the "L" brackets up one or 2 more holes but as of right now, I need to raise the trailer jack almost up to swing the bars into the brackets. Like I mentioned, the directions say as long as the front wheel well returned to pre hitch height, they call it good. And my front wheel well is perfect. But if I wasn't leveled in front and still had the rake, with the 2" sag in rear, once front wheel well was adjusted, it would be level. I know I could probably just put a block on rear axle to raise it up, but then I would have a rake again. With air bags I would have some options. I prefer the leveled stance but may have to make that decision soon.

Ok, thanks. Mine is the same 2016 Crew Cab Short Bed LT. I do have a topper on mine and had made sure to fill the gas tank just before but nothing else that I can think of that would change the weight much. I did still have the weight distribution hitch along with spring arms still there but that should have added only about 100lbs more, maybe. My info was a little different but still similar with more weight on front axle. Truck total weight 6300lbs Front Axle 3420 lbs Rear Axle 2880lbs But it does appear that mine already has more weight on the rear axle to start with. Several hundred pounds different. I'm taking a guess but this does seem to point to leveling front transfers more weight to rear axle. Yours is roughly 58% on front axle and 42% on rear. Mine is roughly 54% on front axle and 46% on rear.

If you happen to find it, please post the front and rear axle weights please.

What would I tighten up? I'm not quite following. In order to attach the spring arms on the Equal-I-Zer hitch, I have to raise the jack stand while it is attached to the ball on the truck. This raises not only the trailer but the rear of the truck as well. It has to go almost to the limit to pop the arms into the L brackets on either side of the trailer frame. But after arms are connected, and upon retracting the jack, I end up with the 2" sag. The trailer is level when I measured the coupler height. I matched the inside of coupler height to the top of the ball prior to anything being hooked up. Everything matches up. The front wheel well height is dead on for the instructions on adjusting the hitch. Here's the rub. If I didn't have the front of my truck leveled by 2" with the Rough Country kit, the front measurement would be at 36-5/8" and rear would be at 37". The whole setup would then be level. But because of the tires on the truck, I need the front leveled.

I am wondering if anyone has the axle weights from a CAT scale for a stock Silverado. I am trying to figure something out. I am working on getting my trailer dialed in but I have leveled my 2016 (2" Rough Country) and think that may be causing a slight problem. I did it to be able to use 275/60R20 tires. I did nothing to the rear. My front according to wheel well shows I'm at about 38-5/8" on front and 39" at rear. I am using a weight distribution hitch but they only really concentrate on front wheel well height. When hitched and no weight distribution, I went up to 39" on front. With the weight distribution all hooked up, I'm perfect and right back at 38-5/8". Now the rear is a different story. I forgot to measure rear without weight distribution but with weight distribution, it is still 2" low right at 37". So that means I am nose high. During the day, not as big an issue as at night. The headlights are not aimed for this and I've never gotten bright lights flashed back at me as much as I am now. I'm pretty sure that I need to add air bags to rear to assist with the sag. But I am curious to see the weights of a stock 14-18+ CCSB 4X4 5.3L. I did take truck and trailer over to CAT scale today to do 3 weights. 1 with truck and trailer using weight distribution, 1 with truck and trailer using no weight distribution, and last, truck by itself. The 3 weights do show that weight is being distributed but I think I can do better. With just the truck weights, I'm at 3420lbs on front axle and 2880lbs on rear axle. This is including full tank of gas along with a topper on the bed. The trailer is almost 5400lbs loaded. With weight distribution, I now have 3380lbs on front axle which seems reasonable. But the rear axle went up to 3540lbs which puts me at 40lbs over the 3500lb axle rating. Those figures really don't seem too bad. What I wonder is what I could do to eliminate that sag maybe without air bags. I do have a set of Air Lift 5000 ready to be installed but if I can do it without them it would be preferred. I wonder if by leveling, it changed the weights of front axle and rear axle which results in more weight on back axle. I'm almost convinced if I raise rear end maybe 1" it may make the difference. I have seen that airbags can be used along with WD hitches. It is recommended to set rear height to a maybe a slight rake prior to connecting hitch and record the psi, then deflate. After connecting the hitch, increase the air in bags to the previous measured psi. It may end up with about 1" lower but is acceptable. But if I do end up raising rear end, this would cause another issue. The top of the ball height is supposed to be set at same height as the inside of the coupler when trailer is level. I am at the top hole already. I haven't checked to see if I can flip the receiver upside down to give more height adjustment but will have to look into it. I did see a post on another forum while doing a Google seach. That one suggested raising the ball to 1" above the coupler height to compensate. TL;DR Leveled truck and trailer and WDH. Perfect on front axle but truck sags 2" in rear. Would Air Bags make up the difference?

So I have a 2016 CCSB 4X4 with the 20" rims and Z60 suspension package. From what I have read, the Z60 lowers the truck by 1". Stock, it had the Chevy rake. I added the Rough Country 2" level and it has a good stance but it does look like it's ever so slightly nose high. I recently also had Falken Wildpeak 275/60R20 tires put on it. No apparent problems. So last weekend, I took delivery of my new toyhauler and had the dealer also install an Equa-lizer weight distribution hitch. I know it will need some adjusting as when I have it loaded, the tongue weight is going to change. My trike that will be loaded in it weighs 1200lbs and then there will be the weight of the rest of the gear. Driving home, I ended up driving for a bit after sundown and for the first time ever, I got quite a few other drivers flashing their bright lights at me. I did adjust the headlights after I had first installed the Rough Country Level. Like I said, I know the hitch will need some fine tuning especially with trailer fully loaded. I should be able to reduce a lot of the rear squat but I'm still not sure about the front end. I do have a set of Air Lift 5000 bags sitting in the garage that I had been considering putting on for awhile but just keep putting it off. So if I add the air bags to slightly raise the rear and then adjust the wdh, would this be a workable solution? I have also considered maybe picking up the Roadmaster RAS helper springs instead. What would be the best way to go?

https://youtu.be/cwAmoPHnxG8

I am by far a master mechanic but I have seen many threads that describe similar electrical troubles and it usually comes down to a bad ground. One of the biggest offenders is a ground that is on top left of dashboard. The ground doesn't make full contact because of a pad that gets between the metal on dash and the wire connector. You may want to check for that. IIRC, I think it could be visible if you remove the speaker grill.

Download this guide and it should have most of the information you want. https://my.gm.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2015/chevrolet/equinox/CH-CAT-10217126_MY15 US Trailering Guide_122215.pdf

I just put a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 on mine. They have a harness with connectors on both sides. One plugs into the Prodigy and the other plugs into a connector on the firewall. That's all there is to it. Very simple. If you already have the factory 7 pin connector, it should be already wired for an aftermarket controller. Now if you are talking about getting the factory controller and new panel that mounts in the area of headlight switch, it won't work.

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Specs for 12626076 71.41" https://www.carid.com/acdelco/gm-original-equipment-v-ribbed-serpentine-belt-mpn-12626076.html

I'm not a big fan of Carfax after a personal experience. Years ago, I bought a used car and it was about 4 years old. Any issues should have popped up and Carfax gave it a green light. 5 years later, I decided to trade it in. As I was checking out all kinds of other vehicles for reports, I did check the Carfax again and it still showed up as clear. The dealership ran the VIN through Autocheck. Lo and behold, this report showed frame damage and the dealership started questioning me after me saying it had never been in an accident. I ended up loosing several thousand on the trade. I decided to investigate the info on the Autocheck. I found out that before it was ever titled, it was involved in an accident in the rail yard inn Michigan. It did end up sustaining frame damage. I then found out the person who I purchased from, bought it used from one of the auto auctions and knew of the damage but never disclosed it. As 5 years had passed, there wasn't much I could do. So my point is, don't rely just on Carfax when buying but spend a few bucks and also run VIN's through Autocheck as well.

Any chance your mirror cover is still OK? You could just swap the mirror cover instead of finding exact match or painting. If so, I do have a set that are taking up shelf space. I give you the passenger side one for the cost of shipping... mine are 2016 Tungsten metallic fyi

As far as brake vacuum pump, mine was just replaced a few months ago. I had the software updates done sometime a year ago but then started having the brake problems end of last summer and last fall. I noticed the problem one time when backing out of my driveway that is on a slope. I had to step on brake as hard as I could. It was intermittent but usually showed up when backing. My vacuum pump was replaced under warranty. There is special coverage that is for 10 years and/or 150,000 miles on it. Take a look at this pdf file for Special Coverage N182202780 MC-10167479-9999.pdf