mikeyk101

You need to make sure you have the right radio. If you look at the label in your glove box on RPO codes, do you have I06? What year and model is your truck and what size screen do you have?

Get a new cable that you leave in your truck that has a USB-c connector on one side and a standard USB connector on other. That's what I do with my Samsung Galaxy Note 20 Ultra.

If you only bought the update every couple of years, IMO it could possibly justify the $99 update cost every now and then. But I wouldn't want to pay that every year. But I have another question. I don't have Navi on mine, just that worthless turn but turn setup if subscribed through OnStar so this doesn't really affect me. My motorcycle, though has navigation that is based on the Garmin system. They no longer provide updates and haven't for probably 3 or 4 years. I found a way to use a Garmin with unlimited updates to create a mapset that I can have loaded into my motorcycle's navigation and always have the most current updates at no charge. Is there a way to do something similar with the Chevy and GM navigation systems?

And the rear axle is still under the 3950lb rating by 410lbs. It is 660lbs over the unhitched weight but still well under the rating for the axle.

I am only shy 40lbs on front axle from unhitched truck to truck and hitched with weight distribution. Without WD, I had lost 280lbs on front axle. I gained back 240lbs on front axle from no weight distribution and with WD. The front wheel well is right at the height it was prior to being hitched. Everything I read said you don't want to put more weight on front axle that what it was unhitched. As far as trailer, the hitched trailer weight on axles is 120lbs more than without weight distribution. I also lost 320lbs from the rear axle with no weight distribution to having weight distribution. But soon I will be able to see what effect the airbags will now have. They were installed last weekend but now truck is in shop for unrelated matter and they are waiting on backorder parts. I can play around with extra washers as well as maybe lowering hitch when I have air on the bags as that may change hitch height slightly higher. But I think the biggest thing is the 2" level on the front. If the level wasn't on there, my truck would be equal in height after WD and headlights would still be aimed straight ahead as they should be. Putting 700lb tongue weight on the truck is going to cause the rear end to go down no matter what. Even with proper weight distribution. If truck had not been leveled, the 2" drop in rear would match front end instead of being 2" lower than the front end which is where I'm at.

I'm guessing you didn't take the time to go through this thread. Yes, the wiring behind that panel is there. Yes, the controller is available. But there hasn't been anyone successful at getting it to work. And this is after several years of owners trying...

I have only tried the Falkens but like them so far. Same size, 275/60R20. I just had them installed back in Dec. I chose them after reading up on the same ones you have as choices. They have a great look and so far not loud.

I have seen a few threads where folks have tried to install the integrated controller but yet to see anyone get it working successfully. IIRC, there is more to it than just plugging in the OEM controller and flashing the computer. I think there were other modules needed to get the oem controller functional. The only option that has worked is using an aftermarket brake controller. There is a socket available to plug an aftermarket controller into.

I just went through this on mine. I think either would be fine and just a matter of preference. I needed to add them to mine as I have a leveled front and even using the weight distribution hitch, I could get the front axle back to the right height but had 2" of sag in rear. I leveled because I went with 33" tires. I ended up adding the Air Lift 5000 kit as I got a sweet deal on an open box kit. I have a 25 foot toyhauler that will come in around 5500-6000lbs loaded. I just got the bags on last weekend but ran out of time to hitch up and give it a try. And now my truck is in shop so this weekend will be a bust as well. I set them at about 10lbs psi and gained a very slight rake back so might try just the recommended 5lbs next once I get it back. But no harsh feeling at 10lbs.

I like that and it would be perfect for me. I caught some road debris which cracked the honeycomb plastic in 2 spots. Not real noticeable but I see it. This would be an easy quick fix...

If it were me, I wouldn't just stop at checking that the bolt was tight. Since you are in there already, I would be inclined to remove that bolt and check that the ring is clean and making good contact with the metal. It just makes sense. Same with the one on the passenger side.

The one I'm talking about is a negative ground. You would check it by putting one probe on the nut and another on something metal under the dash.

I got a call back from dealer and he didn't go into a lot of detail but said there is a crack in the front differential housing and there's a pretty good leak. I asked how that could have happened. He said there was no evidence that it was damaged but didn't have a reason why. The good news is that it will be covered under my extended protection plan. The bad news is that at least one of the parts is on backorder and no idea when it will become available... But the plan also provides a rental for me so I'm not completely grounded.

I may be wrong but shouldn't it have been at 0 and no resistance? Did you remove the bolt and make sure that the ring is making good contact with bare metal? Also, from what I have seen, there is another identical ground on passenger side as well.

I don't think it points to the steering recall. I think it either points to battery cables like 2018GMC mentions or the G218 ground problem like I mentioned. There is even a service bulletin on it that lists 4 causes. One of them has already been ruled out as you know the battery is good. The G218 can be ruled out by you as well if you check it. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10168185-9999.pdf

Take a look at his previous video where he discusses his symptoms.

I have a 7 a.m. appointment tomorrow morning at a local Chevy dealer and will let them figure out what's going on. Since I have the Amynta protection plan, it best to probably let Chevy diagnose it. I will update once they let me know.

Does the Suburban have the same ground at the dash as the Silverados and Sierras? If so, you may have a grounding issue. Your symptoms mirror the G218 grounding issue. There are many youtube videos that cover the fix. Maybe this will help:

Well bags are on. It went pretty smooth and I only lost one star washer. I would call that a win. Yesterday turned out to be the perfect day to do it. I didn't have time to hook up the trailer to check the results but it does seem a little cushier in the rear end. I have 10lbs psi in the bags for now to see how it does unhitched. I ended up mounting the Schrader valves into the side footsteps on the rear bumper. Very easy access. I did gain about an inch in the rear wheelwells as it went from 39" before to about 40". The real test will be when I get a chance to hook up the trailer but I now have some wiggle room. The bags can go as high as 100lbs psi but I have no intention of even trying half of that. Now I just have to take care of the other unrelated issue that popped up. If it's not one thing, it's another...

Ok, good to know. I wasn't sure as I never paid attention to this before.

No, I don't think it is. I blotted up some of it on the ground and it is very similar to brake fluid. It has a similar smell. I popped the hood again and stuck my head in there. It could now smell brake fluid. I did see something that doesn't quite look right also. The hose that runs down from brake master to front left lower side of engine has a fitting on it. That fitting also has what looks like duct tape on it. The fitting is dry so I know that's not where the leak is. I know that there is aluminum faced insulation all around engine compartment but this really appears to be duct tape. I am including 2 photos of it. The top one is a close up of the fitting. The bottom one is a little further out and I circled the fitting. Does this look normal to anyone? I am original owner and any engine work that has been done to it has been done by the same dealer. So it looks like it will be heading back to the dealer very soon to get checked out...

I have a 2016 CCSB 5.3L 6L80 4x4. Just recently I started noticing small spots under mine. I can't quite see where it's dripping from as it is somewhere above the plastic skid plate. It appears to only be right in the center and from the rear of skid plate. Obviously I know I will eventually need to remove it to check further but wanted to gets some thoughts first. The fluid appears to be a clear oily fluid. Trans fluid is red so that's not it but I did check trans level anyway. It doesn't appear to be motor oil and a check of level shows that's fine as well. Coolant checks out too. I looked at the brake fluid and that also is full. I did recently have the brake booster changed out under warranty as it was doing the hard braking occasionally. It shifts fine, no overheating, slows down when braking, and steers just fine as well. The fluid appears to be dripping just above at the very back of the plastic skid plate. I believe that's about where the torque converter bolts up to the back of engine. I tried looking from above but can't see any issues. My nose is stuffed up right now so I'm not sure if it has an odor. As I do have extended warranty, I will most likely let the dealer handle it but I figured I would ask first to see if someone might have some idea of where this might be coming from.

Sorry, I really wasn't trying to overanalyze. Well maybe I was but I have made my decision. After the subject was brought up, I was just trying to show why bags make more sense for me and easier to adjust over constantly having to correct the headlights each time. Sometimes my ability to ignore doesn't work so well... Thanks.

And what about when I go to a campground in the late afternoon when sun is setting and drop the trailer. Then I decide to go to dinner and now have to drive down some dark country roads known for lots of deer? Where am I going to find a level spot 20 feet from a wall? With the airbags, I just drop them back to 5psi and I'm good. Leveling a truck isn't your thing, I get that. It was important for me though. And I don't see leveling as "causing a problem" but rather customizing it for my needs. And leveling is probably one of the most conservative ways to be able to do what I wanted. But the sag does cause other issues. Because it ends up with the tail low, it can catch more wind underneath creating drag besides the headlights pointing to high. After this thread and many other threads I've come across including reaching out to a very well know maker of weight distribution hitches, I've discovered that going with air bags is perfectly acceptable solution to this and nothing wrong with doing it. I understand that it's not how you would do but surprisingly I'm seeing that many do it and have good results doing it. So I guess you do you and I will do me. Take care...

I would have to say yes. It will only takes a second to attach my portable air inflator to the air bag valves and it also has an air gauge on it. After doing it and getting it where I want, I would just have to inflate it to the same pressure which I will figure out by the first time I do it. And then after unhitching, I just need to let the air out back to 5psi. In order to adjust the headlights each time, I would have to find a flat level spot and be about 20 feet from a wall. I would need a tape measure to do it right. And then when I unhitch, I would have to do it again.