mikeyk101

I actually enable Developer Mode on all my phones as one of the first things I do after getting it. I went through all of that including even opening developer mode inside of Android Auto after the AA folks had me do it. That can be done by opening Android Auto on your phone, going into AA settings, tap on version info 10 times and then switching developer mode on and off by clicking on the 3 dots in upper right while in AA settings. Like I mentioned, for S8 and Note 8, it's a known problem that none of the involved parties including Android Auto, Waze, Samsung, or Chevrolet seem to be able to or want to solve. And now that both the S8 and Note 8 are basically obsolete, I think it's pretty much going to be ignored.

For whatever reason, Samsung Galaxy S8 phones as well as the Samsung Galaxy Note 8 like I had were known for problems with Android Auto. I dealt with it for a while and discovered that there were many others in the same boat. There was a lot of fingerpointing from all sides but no one seemed to want to or be able to solve it. The only solution I found was switching to a newer phone. And I am still using the same USB-C cable that I was originally using on my Note 8 on my Note 20 and it works just fine.

I had exact problem with my Galaxy Note 8. It worked fine when I first got it but then began doing the same thing. I could sometimes toggle location and it would help for a little while but would end up doing it again. I complained on Android Auto forum and they blamed Samsung and Chevy. I complained on Samsung forum and they blamed Chevy and Waze. I complained on Waze forums and they blamed Android Auto. And IIRC, Chevy blamed both of them. I never did get it fixed. The only thing that worked was getting rid of the Note 8 and upgrading. I know have a Galaxy Note 20 Ultra 5g and it pretty much solved the problem. I will occasionally get freezes but few and far between. One suggestion you could try is to uninstall Android Auto and Waze, restart the phone and install fresh copies of each. If that doesn't work, you may have to upgrade or go with a different brand. The problem did seem to happen a lot with the Samsung Galaxy S8 and the Note 8 for some reason...

Mine is a 2016 built towards the end of 2015. Mine will probably be one of the ones that needs the recall but it isn't showing up via the my.chevrolet.com site when I check. I will probably have to keep checking and/or wait until Aug for the recall notification letter.

Yup, appears to be a legit issue. Thanks for posting the heads up! https://www.consumerreports.org/car-recalls-defects/chevrolet-gmc-truck-recall-airbags-can-deploy-without-crash-a9306741095/

So I made my way up to the local Oreillys earlier and left about $20 lighter. They had a decent pair of snap ring pliers so I snagged them. I let the truck cool down for a bit and dived back in. It was a lot quicker getting the housing off this time and these new snap ring pliers got the snap ring off very easily. Turns out I did put the snap ring on backwards. And by having the right tools, 2 hands worked out just fine. After flipping the snap ring over so flat side went in first, the new tool held the snap ring perfectly. I pushed the cap in first then used a pair of needle nosed pliers to keep it down while I inserted the snap ring. It went mostly in. One more push down on cap and pushing on edge of snap ring, it snapped right into place. This time I paid a little closer attention to the snap ring. I noticed that the snap ring is narrower near the holes and fatter around back side. When putting it on the first time, I had just assumed that it had the same thickness all around so it didn't look quite right. But all is right in the world for me tonight! Now I am looking forward to cooler trans temps especially when towing my camper...

See, I knew there had to be a trick to it. Thank you!

Like title says, I finally got around to doing the transmission thermostat delete. It was a very interesting adventure. Not real difficult but it would have helped if I had 3 hands plus the proper tool. Getting the housing off was pretty straightforward. A 13mm socket removed the housing and luckily I have the brace holding the transmission cooling lines in so it was just a 10mm bolt to remove. Very little transmission fluid drained out just like others had mentioned. But the biggest issue I ran into was that stupid snap ring. I knew I had a set of snap ring pliers so I figured I was good to go. Unfortunately, my set only expands snap rings and doesn't compress them. And I didn't discover this until I had the housing in my vice. Doh! But a little creativity with a set of pliers and the snap ring pliers were able to compress that snap ring. The cap was stuck on so with a little wiggling, I got it to come off. Out came the pill, then the spring, flipped the pill, put spring into cap and quickly popped the cap back in. So far so good I was thinking. Next came getting snap ring back on. This is where a third set of hands would have come in handy. So I push down on the cap to fully seat it then with the snap ring pliers holding the snap ring, I used my pliers to squeeze the snap ring pliers to compress the snap ring. Again, so far, I'm getting it done. Now trying to hold cap down with one hand and squeezing pliers with other, I'm trying to finally the snap ring back in place. Then it happened... The pliers slipped a bit and next thing I know, the snap ring is now air borne, whizzing past my head and across the garage! Now if you've seen my garage, it is absolutely stuffed hodge podged with my sons toys, assorted boxes and chairs, a camping trailer, etc... and it's hard to even see the floor. (That will be handled in coming months as I organize everything) Needless to say, I am now pissed. Of course I picked July 4th to do this project when just about everything is now closed for the holiday. So now I have to go searching for this stupid snap ring. luckily, I did happen to see the flight path but didn't see exactly where it landed. So I'm slowly pulling out all the stuff from the garage, shaking it in the hopes that the snap ring falls out but no dice. I keep moving further into the mound of junk and now my driveway is starting to fill up. Now I'm about ready to give up but I know I'm screwed. I'm the only one here and I would need the Silverado to run out and get a replacement but can't drive it with the trans thermostat housing removed and where would I even be able to go anyway. So I gave it one last look. After about another 10 mins, I happen to look under my son's water table that only a 1/2 hour ago was buried and there it is! The flying snap ring has been found! So I go for one more try. Carefully I push down on cap, then holding the pliers compressing the snap ring pliers, I get the snap ring back in position and slowly release. Ok, success, the snap ring is back in somewhat. It's not even all the way around and then looking at the forum again, I learn that there is a flat side and a rounded side to the snap ring. At this point, I don't really care. It's in and I don't think it's going to come out anytime soon. I put that bad boy back on for now so I can at least be able to drive again. I did call up the local Oreillys and found out that they are open today until 7 and they have the proper snap ring pliers in stock. I'm going to run up there in a bit and get them. I will let the truck cool down a bit and then pull the trans thermostat housing out again and make sure the snap ring is installed properly. So the moral of the story is make sure you have the proper tools before starting a project like this on a national holiday. Happy 4th of July!!!

I have to disagree with you that it is only related to AFM and torque converter. I have AFM disabled and did that a long time ago. You could be right though about torque converter contributing as it along with the GM trans have been know to have many issues. But there doesn't seem to be a one fix fits all. On mine, when it was really bad, getting my tires road forced balanced improved the shake tremendously. But I still sometimes get it. I now have a new set of tires installed maybe a year ago and I probably need to get those RFB'd as well. But I have also noticed that it only occurs on certain roads too. Not sure why but besides the multitude of "fixes" suggested, maybe road surface is also a contributing factor? Another thing I seem to notice is that it is different if I have a full or nearly empty fuel tank as well as if I have several people or by myself, or an empty bed or carrying a load. No idea but on mine, the shake only pops up occasionally and is more of a minor irritation now so I just ignore it most of the time.

Well I've been a bit busy trying to get several different projects done so I haven't been able to give any updates. But I finally got around to checking my setup with the airbags and it looks like it's a success. When first checking the measurements, I had tried using about 25lbs in the bags and had a nose high on the trailer with 18" in front with bottom of frame and 17" in rear. Measurements of the truck front and rear wheel wells weren't too bad. But I needed to adjust because of the trailer results. I ended up going with 15lbs in the bags and lowering the ball down 1 hole. I get barely any difference with unhitched, and then hitched with weight distribution. I end the same on the front unhitched or hitched with WD and just under an inch of sag in rear. And the trailer now sits about 17" in front and 18" in rear. I haven't tested the difference on my headlights and night driving yet but it should be greatly improved. It seems to drive just fine. I had to get this done because I have a week-long trip planned starting next weekend and that will be the final test. It will be about a 1200 mile round trip. Somewhere along the way, I will revisit a CAT scale and see what the numbers are now but I'm feeling a lot better about my setup now.

I have the Rough Country spacer that goes on the bottom on mine. I wanted to go with 275/60R20 tires so that is why I leveled. Still have the stock controller arms and no rubbing. My only issue is the sag on rear when hitching up my toyhauler camper so headlights point skyward. I didn't add any rear blocks. If I didn't have the level kit, when the rear sags, it would match the front just fine. I ended up adding airlift 5000 airbags because I got them at a bargain price. Now I can adjust the rear anytime whether towing or not.

It doesn't matter which brand forum you go to whether Chevy, GMC, Ford, Ram, Toyota, etc... you will find plenty of fan boys saying theirs is the best as well as those saying it's complete garbage. Every brand will have plenty of success stories as well as their share of problems. They all seem to be selling and I see plenty of each out there. I think fan loyalty is important but you need to decide what is important and find the brand that has the features you want and fits your particular niche. I personally prefer Chevy but my buddy has always been a Ford guy. JMHO...

I just went through the entire page. Excellent info but surprisingly with all the info they list, I couldn't find wheelbase listed once. Did I just not look in the right place?

It sounds like possibly the G218 ground issue. There is a ground under top left of dashboard behind speaker. The problem is that some of the insulation there gets caught around the stud and doesn't allow the ground wire full contact. The solution if that's it is to remove the bolt and wire, then cut away some of the insulation so the wire is able to have full contact. Search G218 and see if that's a possible solution for you.

Yup, you will probably be better off. Sounds like you already decided. Good luck with your new Ford truck.

That's a little pricey but very stylish. And it solves mounting the controller by your legs issue. I might have to look into this one some day... Only issue for me is that is where my 4x4 switch is so I don't think there would be enough real estate there. I would have to chose somewhere else to mount the dial.

You reach out to @pgamboaas he is the most knowledgeable about these...

I think there is different ideas on what works best and that's why there are different options and opinions. As long as you get the trailer to stop with the vehicle, you win. In my case, I prefer a inertia/proportional controller and have the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 on mine. I like that it is able to sense how strong or how light I brake and proportionally apply the brakes according to that and it's immediate as soon as I step on the brakes. This is especially important in a panic stop. A timer based controller wouldn't give you immediate braking in that situation. Where there might be an issue with the proportional controller is on ice or snow and might not sense how hard you are braking if ABS kicks in. But this will probably be a non issue as the trailer will probably be parked in winter and not get used.

You will be a hero if you figure out how to get it working but unfortunately I'm doubtful this will be the case...

I was just posting to try and help you save the money and headache from making a mistake too many others have done.

No, I didn't bother even trying after seeing the countless number of threads that ended in failure. I have yet to see even 1 successful attempt to get it working. Go ahead and give it a try but make sure to post your results.

It's not going to work. You are going to find that you are going down a rabbit hole that many before you have tried and failed at. It's more than simply plugging the OEM brake controller into the harness that you will probably find behind that panel. Trailering package doesn't mean it should have OEM trailer brake control. Trailering package simy means that you are probably wired up in rear for a trailer as well as have a hitch and most likely a locking rear differential. You will need an aftermarket brake controller to get the trailer brakes to work. You will probably find a connector on inside firewall that you can plug in the aftermarket one to be able to control your trailer brakes.

Who is this posted for??? BTW, I don't see any ads. I have been using the Brave browser on my phone and it has ad blocking software. No ads and this site runs very well now...

A couple things, I also have a 2016. Specifically with Silverados and Sierras, the only way to get Android Auto on your radio screen is through plugging your phone into USB in the console like others mentioned. But there also could be another issue if you find that doesn't work. IIRC, Android Auto was first introduced with the 2016 models. However many of the early 2016 needed a software update to allow Android Auto to work. Mine needed the software update. It's not something you can do yourself and has to be done by the dealer. It also takes a while to do. In my case, I think it was almost 3 hours to do. The rub though is that back then, they did it for free because it was advertised as coming with it. I have heard that if it wasn't done then, you will be charged for the software update.