mikeyk101

I'm not sure either other than the visual differences of the green torque converter in one and the blue in other. It would be nice if the info was included in the description but a phone call may be necessary. They do have a decent warranty.

I know if the hood isn't fully closed, or has a bad switch, the remote start won't work. Also if you have remote started twice before normally starting the truck, the remote also won't work. My biggest gripe is that each remote start will only run for 10 mins at a time. I wish that was adjustable as well as being able to remote start as many times as I choose without having to start normally in between...

I think a lot depends on the brand of rebuilt transmission you are buying and what kind of torque converter they put in it. Maybe reach out to the rebuilder?

So are you saying that it actually is possible to install the factory trailer brake controller and have it work? If so, can you provide a complete writeup as well as pictures of the project. Also can you provide the info/part numbers on the missing modules and possible wiring harnesses that prevent just installing the OEM brake controller only to find out that it doesn't work?

As far as I was aware, all the audio comes from stereo and is piped out of all the speakers. At least that's what it sounds like to me. For your input(voice commands and calls), there should be a microphone almost directly above your head in the headliner. It is next to center of your visor.

I had a dealer replace mine earlier this year and it cost about $5300. It was a OEM rebuilt. They no longer have any new ones. One big positive is that it comes with a 3 year unlimited miles warranty. Mine isn't the tow package but does have trailering equipment such as the G80 auto locking rear differential. Although it may be a bit more than what you want to spend but it may be worth it for the additional warranty. The tow package will have the bigger radiator and OEM trailer brake controller on upper left side of dash among other things. Also take a look in the glovebox for the tag with codes on it. If you see Z82, you have the trailering package. IIRC, if you see NHT on that sticker, then you have the tow package.

Have you tried any of the suggestions or tips in this thread?

Has you or your team been actually able to assist anyone. It's kind of ignorant to make a post and not follow up with any info for a solution. Your account is pretty much a joke. I look forward to hearing from you...

Yup, that's it!

Just wanted to add, I had upgraded the 12v battery on my Toy hauler from a Group 24 wet cell to a Group 31 AGM. The new one is 110ah deep cycle. The fridge in toy hauler is a 12v and can run off the battery. I have occasionally stopped overnight in parking lots like Walmart, etc... In these cases, using a generator is usually frowned on. I always unplug truck from toy hauler. I can run the fridge and maybe a few lights and still have some power in battery when I pull out the next morning. Unfortunately I cannot run the AC when doing this. I do believe if I had to run the furnace overnight, I'm not sure the battery would have enough power to last the entire night. And when I use the generator on my woodland property, 5 gallons of gas was about right to get me from Fri afternoon until I left Sun afternoon But the point I'm trying to make is that if I had to rely on battery power from my truck only, I might get 1 nights worth out of it and also have to sacrifice while doing so. And even with starting up the truck to let it idle, it's still going to take gas to run and keep a charge on the battery. You would also be limited on what you would be able to run. Might as well just grab a inverter generator and be able to be comfortable. Some inverter generators will also run in propane as well as gas which gives options. Mine is gas only. And inverter generators are also quieter than standard generators so they are easy to be around.

My suggestion is to just pick up a portable generator from Harbor Freight and it would probably be more useful. I picked up a Predator 3500 inverter generator a few years back and have had to use it a couple times for last couple winters. I plug in not only my furnace, but my refrigerator, my freezer, and a couple lights. What I did on my furnace was cut off the male connector and lead from an old extension cord and then wired it into furnace wiring. I wired it after the emergency shutoff switch. I just flip the emergency cutoff switch to off and this makes sure it is disconnected from the house wiring. When power comes back on, I disconnect the generator extension cord and then flip the emergency shutoff switch back on. When not in use, I locked up a bare 3 prong connector and put that on the end. To get the power in to the house, I have a 50ft heavy gauge extension cord that has a triple tap on the end. I run that through a window, close the window as far as I can and use a towel to cover the rest of the gap. I make sure to set the generator plenty far from the house so no fumes enter. It has been a lifesaver for me. I also have some woodland property that I bring my toy hauler to. There are no utilities there so the generator is a must. I have power to everything including my AC in warmer weather.

I would probably assume the same thing as well. The rear gearing should be the same as front gearing. There may also be a sticker with all the codes for all the different options and specs stuck on back wall of glove box and that would probably help. Not sure if you have access to that.

Mine is a 2016 5.3 6 speed. I don't know how old mine was but I had been using it for several years. It couldn't hurt to reach out to them. Supposedly the new version runs in a more stealth mode. I only contacted them because of the failure but they may just do an upgrade just because. Here is what I found in their FAQ "HOWEVER, the latest firmware (8.6+) has a more "stealthy" mode and is invisible, so it DOES NOT affect the OnStar report for most vehicles most of the time. HOWEVER, there may be a case where the Onstar hits the vehicle when running or driving, and at those times it MAY give an error" Although this is discussing the monthly OnStar diagnostic report, I think it also applies to the sensors from my experience with it.

Unfortunately I don't but maybe @newdude will be along and have that answer.

Oops, I completely glossed over the point I was trying to make in above post. The starter may have not been bad after all. When it first "failed", before it got towed to dealer, I obviously removed the Range device. I didn't try to start it after that and let the dealer diagnose the problem. At the time I didn't know about the correlation of the non start issue and the defective Range device. I didn't discover it until it happened the second time and by accident, figured it out.

Speaking of bad starters, earlier this year, I got stranded outside my ex's house after dropping off our son. Turning the key had no effect. Even using a jump starter did nothing. Had my truck towed to a dealer close to my house where they determined the starter had gone bad. The truck ran fine for several months after that. But in Jul, same thing happened again at my house. While playing around with it, I happened to unplug the Range AFM Disabler from the OBDII port and the truck started right up! I had been using this Range device for the last several years. I contacted Range Technology (now owned by Holley) and they shipped me a new Disabler and had me return the old one to them. No more issues since then. Not sure what changed but one thing I noticed was that with my old one, prior to emissions testing, many of the various sensors would report not ready so that would be an automatic fail. I would have to remove the Disabler sometimes for several days before sensors would be ready for emissions testing. After, I would just plug it back in. On this new one, pretty much all the sensors are ready so I would just have to unplug the disabler as I pulled up for emissions testing. I haven't been able to confirm that as I haven't needed the testing but will once it gets done. I actually run a OBDII splitter and have the disabler plugged in as well as an OBDII reader on other. I do this so I can monitor different engine functions and conditions. This is how I can keep track of the sensors.

I could be wrong but I thought there were different gear ratios available. I don't think there was just a single "standard" gear ratio used. You would just have to know which gears are in the differential you picked up and make sure it matches the rear gearing. I am fairly certain that 3.42 and 3.73 were two of the possibilities but cantt remember the third. Maybe 3.04???

There are splitter harnesses so you can have 2 things plugged into the OBDII port. I am using one with a Range AFM Disable as well as an OBDII reader to monitor different engine functions. Here is one similar to mine. https://a.co/d/9oe2Eao They also have some that do not have cords and are direct plugins. You just have to figure out if you need the B30 or the B31 depending on the orientation of the OBDII connector. https://a.co/d/e2xyY48

Wouldn't it be more appropriate to ask this on a dedicated Dodge Truck forum?

A magnetized screwdriver also works very well. And if you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, just attach a magnet to the shaft of screwdriver and temporarily make it magnetic...

Reach out to him at his website I posted in the link above.

If you are unsuccessful, you might want to reach out to @GTPprix and take him up on his offer. Here is his website. https://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/shop/ You might even find some other stuff that would interest you...

If you are asking about programmer, I didn't get one. Mine was already set up for one and I was just replacing the existing camera. Here is the link for the programmer. https://www.camerasource.com/products/gm-rear-view-camera-programmer-for-8-display?make_filter=6008&model_filter=6208&year_filter=6282

Maybe this will help? Make sure to look at the diagram towards the end of the page. https://chevroletforum.com/how-tos/a/chevrolet-silverado-2014-present-why-does-my-blower-motor-not-work-389341