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Just did all 3 transmission lines on my '10 Silverado due to rust out by the cooler. It was cheaper than I thought it would be $155 (CAD) for the lines and 3 hours labour. Not that difficult if you have a hoist.

BOLT 5922987 Original Factory Tailgate Handle for Silverado and Sierra with Lock Cylinder This kit is what I used on my 2010 tailgate, comes with the replacement handle and cover and keys itself to your ignition key. Very easy DIY project. Got it on Amazon

When will he have time to do that with all the time he puts in spouting vaccine plans for the world!

Mine did that for a while and then got worse. Cruise would not work, rear brake lights would flash and cycle on and off and transmission interlock would not let me start in park. Turned out to be the Brake light switch at the top of the pedal. Replaced the switch two years ago and no problems since.

The red with with the black stripe and ring connector is for a brake controller power lead that only needs to be connected if you have an aftermarket brake controller attached. I don't know what the other wires are for. Is it a Classic or NNBS?

Any other symptoms? That is the way my '10 started to fail and then the brake lights started acting up. It was the brake pedal switch.

I do not believe that you can reset the LTFT or the short term either. I reset the alcohol % with my scan tool (VXDIAG) which hooks to my computer. It keep coming back to 22% or higher all the time. There are some topics here that suggest that the % changes based on engine status after adding at least a quarter tank of fuel. To get the best results you should have an already warm engine and then drive for 7-10 miles after fueling before shutting it off. On another note P0172/175 is NOT caused by alcohol % as a general rule, you must have another issue, like a manifold leak. I had a P0171/174 AND a bad fuel trim and high alcohol% (40%). Resetting the Alcohol percentage did not fix the codes and I later found a small vacuum leak using a smoke test. Search the internet for P0172 for your engine for a diagnostic routine and follow it. You will find the problem.

.40 is absolutely correct for these plugs. DO NOT regap Iridiun plugs.

Stop leak of any kind WILL plug the orifice tube on all GMs. Then you will be in for a nasty repair.

Do you just the 12V power? if yes then have you attached the wire wound up by the brake booster to the stud at the front of the fuse box? Also there was a dummy J-case fuse in some of the fuse boxes on these trucks from the factory.

Did the wires going to stud 1 and 2 in the engine compartment fuse box get reversed? one is for the brake controller and the other is for constant hot.

The ground should also connect to the 7 way plug

There is a backup light feed in he 7 way plug. Read the cover and it will tell you which one.

I would say that you do not have sensors in the wheels that you bought. The sensors used in the '11 and '15 are the same and the air out method should have worked if the sensors were there. The air out method and the re-learn tool basically "wake up" the sensor on command while you have the truck in relearn mode.

Are you sure that you got the right tool from Amazon? The newer trucks use a different frequency!