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It is not the sensor you need just the bigger valve stems to move the sensors onto.

No flex fuel sensor. It is calculated based on MAF and O2 readings. I would be looking at the wiring for the MAF and Throtle Body before going any further. What codes are showing? What happens to the LTFTs is more critical than the STFTs and as well the ethanol %.

The switch is at the top of the brake pedal. It has several circuits and one may be bad. I replaced mine because the cruise would not work and then several months later the traction control and stabilitrack would not work. Brakes and lights worked OK though. Five minute install time.

Yes they will. They are the same sensors up until 2018. 2019s use a different sensor.

Attached are the instructions trailer brake wiring.pdf

I would love a copy as well. Thanks

I still would replace the brake pedal switch first.

The brake switch at the top of the pedal has more than one circuit in it. One may be gone. Does your cruise light go out when this happens or do you occasionally get traction control or stabilitrac errors on the DIC? I would replace the brake pedal switch it is cheap and see if it corrects the issue.

Open to Canadians?

see attached instructions trailer brake wiring.pdf

They changed the 8 bolt pattern in 2011, so anything early will do. Some RAM wheels are also the same bolt pattern. 8X6.5

Yes they will work

Is it giving any codes using a quality scanner? The code will tell you what might be wrong. My 2010 did this quite a few times over a month and then eventually the brake interlock would not let me start the truck and the brake lights weren't working all the time as it got worse. It was the brake light switch at the top of the pedal that went out and it fixed ALL my issues and was cheap to do myself. When is this happening and does it happen all the time or occasionally and check for any codes with a good scanner. This will help figure it out as it could be more than one sensor.

Unhook the wires from one and try the bell and the nest to see which one it controls and then the other one do the same. No harm should be done to either by doing this as long as you do not short the contacts on the transformer. The nest thermostat should be using the transformer built into the furnaces though. Maybe something else is using the second transformer like a garage door monitor or something similar? If neither of these transformers are for the door bell or the nest thermostats and you cannot get a reading off of them, I would disconnect them totally until you found out what they are for.

The second transformer looks like it is for a furnace humidifier (24V). Is there one on the furnace or maybe an electronic air filter? For the door bell, Both wires go into the bell box, but only one connects to the bell, the other wire goes to the door switch and then back to the front or rear terminal so that when the button is pushed the bell circuit is completed. Either of these transformers can be used for the door bell most likely, they just need to be wired correctly. Quick test is to attach one wire to transformer terminal from the transformer and briefly touch the other wire to the front or back terminals to see if the bell itself is working.