TQUAP

Unfortunately the most I can speak to how everything was reassembled is that I have used Joe quite a bit and he's always proven knowledgable, capable and honest. As to individual things he did I just can't say. I do know that he was under a time crunch to get all of this done and personally if I were in that situation I know I would be more susceptible to making minor mistakes. Though he did tell me he took the truck on an extended test drive after buttoning everything up and it did not throw a code for him. With everything I know about the situation and as a layman, if I had to hazard a guess I'd say there's a non-trivial chance something minor that was overlooked. I was kind of hoping to narrow it down to a smaller subset of possibilities so I could have a more useful conversation with him. A DOD-delete cam did come with the kit and the pictures Joe provided of the job indicate it was installed. To my knowledge all O2 sensors are OEM. I purchased the truck at 75k miles about a year ago and the sensors were never replaced under my ownership. On the intake gaskets, I supplied the parts and I did specifically purchase and give Joe all new gaskets to install. Anything that was indicated to be one time use, I purchased a new one of and supplied to him.

Hi all, I've got a 2018 Escalade ESV (6.2L L86 w/ 10l80) that I recently had an AFM delete done on (Texas Speed kit with the base/stock cam, so no change in cam profile). I'm about a 6/10 driveway mechanic but this was a bit too detailed a surgery for my taste, so I farmed it out to my regular mechanic. Joe was rushing to get it done before vacation and is now gone for two weeks. After I picked it up, the CEL came on after a couple of miles and it's throwing a P219B (air/fuel ratio imbalance, bank 2). Both long term fuel trims are steeply negative, with bank 2 running about 5 to 7% lower than bank 1. One thing worth mentioning on the tune side: I loaded a Trifecta tune about 20k miles ago, right after I bought the truck, specifically to disable AFM in software. That same tune is still on the truck. Joe did not touch the tune during the delete, so it's running the original AFM-disable Trifecta file on top of the fresh delete hardware. I'm driving it sparingly until Joe gets back but would like an idea of what I'm working with before then. He's convinced we're looking at a bad fuel injector that just happened to go south right after the delete (color me slightly skeptical, but he's a good guy and I'm sure he'll take care of me either way). When I logged the parameters and looked at the data, one thing that came up was whether the truck was properly re-tuned after the physical delete. My assumption going in was that with the base cam, the only tuning needed for an AFM delete is just turning AFM off, which I'd already done in software. But I'm now wondering if the truck actually needs a proper re-tune for the delete hardware and that's what's driving the P219B. So my main questions for the group: Do I need a dedicated re-tune after a physical AFM delete even if I kept the stock cam, given the truck is still running the same software AFM-disable tune from 20k miles ago? Does a bilateral steeply negative LTFT with a 5 to 7% bank split point more toward a tune issue or toward Joe's bad-injector theory? And of course, any other thoughts on what could be going on here are very welcome. TIA

So just picked up a 2018 Escalade ESV and am absolutely loving it. Only issue is my plans for mitigating potential AFM failure are coming to naught. I was planning on either 1) mechanically deleting the AFM system or 2) getting a trusted extended warranty. Well the only quote I've been able to get for the delete was over $10k. And of the two warranty companies I identified as trustworthy the only quote I've gotten was $8,000 for four years of coverage. Neither of those are palatable. My buddy is a mechanic and was saying AFM lifters failure usually comes about around 120k miles. My truck has 74k and we miiiiiight put 8,000 on it per year. Plan was a 5-7 year hold. From what research I've done it seems like the lifter failure usually comes down to oiling problems. This truck appears to have been very well maintained so far. So what I'm thinking is: 1) disable AFM via tune 2) absolutely religious OCI of 3,000 miles 3) BG EPR once per year and seafoam on non-BG oil changes 4) use high detergent synthetic oil such as Mobil 1 Extended Performance and high quality filters If I'm planning to own the truck up to 120k miles so you guys think I'd be pretty well protected from AFM failure with a regimen like that or should I continue shopping for extended warranties?

Yeah, I've come to terms with the idea of having my mechanic do my oil changes instead of myself. As gross as that sounds to me. One thing I'm worried about is if they want to know about maintenance before I owned the truck. PO did his own work and Carfax shows nothing during his ownership.

After doing some more research on them I'm coming around to the idea of a warranty. Apparently with Fidelity you can extend your warranty up to eight years so we could plan on owning the truck for five but then decide to keep it and extend the warranty. GPT is saying Fidelity may even cover Magneride (most exclude suspension components). If that's the case then the only concern is if they decide to find some reason to deny my claim. Because that would be, you know, pretty much a worst case scenario. But I'm reading that Fidelity has a pretty good track record when it comes to claims fulfillment. It's a big company, not some fly by night operation.

I've just read too much about the AFM being a failure points and potentially a big one. From all the research I've done this vehicle is pretty solid other than that (and the magnaride but that's straightforward). It's just too big of an issue to go into it unprotected. Without doing something to address the AFM issue as you're saying I'd be better off with a low mileage gmt800. The other option (which I'm warming to somewhat) is an extended warranty through a highly rated provider like Fidelity or Zurich. But that would only cover me to five years and there's always the possibility they decide not to cover it for some reason.

Yeah, annoying

Buying a 2018 Escalade with 10L80 and 74k tomorrow. Maintenance history suspected to be good based on profile of PO and condition of vehicle but unknown. I'm planning to replace all fluids right off the bat so I'm working with a clean baseline. I'd like to own the vehicle for a while. So in regards to the transmission, question is would it be better to have a full flush done or do a drain/refill + filter? Or should I shell out the money for a flush + filter? TIA

Hi all, Purchasing a 2018 Escalade with 10-speed, towing package and G80 rear end on Monday. It has 73k miles and I intend to replace all fluids, filters, plugs + wires proactively. I understand it's been well maintained but I want to have a good baseline. I was looking at the owners manual for fluid capacities and types but it appears to have been superseded. I was hoping someone here could let me know if the following would work. Motor oil - 7qts Mobil 1 0w20 Coolant - 21qts Dex-cool and water + water wetter Transmission fluid - 12qt Dexron ULV T-case fluid - 2qts Auto-Trak II Front diff - 2.7qt AC-Delco 75w90 hypoid oil Rear diff - 3.5qt AC-Delco 75w85 hypoid oil (no LS modifier) Brakes - 2qts DOT 4 Motul 600 Plugs - AC-Delco 41-147 Note on brake fluid - I take our cars into the mountains a lot and like the safety of a high boiling point fluid

Well to the "if it ain't broke" comment I'd say my rationale is that this is a known failure points on the engine and it's either this or an extended warranty (which I don't trust). I'm planning on doing a tune delete via HP tuners or a Trifecta tune immediately but my understanding is the lifters can still fail even if not cycling back and forth constantly (though less likely). I'm planning on a minimum of a five year hold, probably more with this one and want a rock solid truck I can trust to drive CO to FL, go up into the mountains and regularly 600 miles back and forth to our off grid cabin. To some extent it's piece of mind. We currently have a high mileage 06 Suburban w/ 5.3 and the idea was to get something we don't have to worry about. Now I will say that if someone here had a great experience with a specific extended warranty that I could trust to replace an engine if necessary then I would certainly consider that instead. The mag ride being covered as well would be a plus

Hi all, In the process of pulling the trigger on a 2018 Escalade with 73k miles. She's going into the shop tomorrow for PPI and based on how clean the vehicle is and my cursory inspection I have every expectation she'll pass. Now I'm on to all the stuff I want to take care of right off the bat. The big thing on my list is a full mechanical AFM delete. It sounds like something I could potentially do but at the same time... seems involved and kiiiiind of rather leave it to a professional. I've called around to four shops so far and the responses have ranged from "what" to "oh, no we definitely wouldn't do that". I was wondering if anyone here could either suggest a shop that would do an AFM delete or tell me what I should look for in a shop when searching for one. TIA

Hi all. Pretty new here, I'm looking at purchasing a K2 Escalade (possibly as soon as tomorrow) and figure with some of the reliability issues I should probably get a PPI done. While I'm probably capable of catching most of what a pro can, at the end of the day I don't have access to a lift and I don't spend literally all day every day doing this. The 2016 w/ 95k miles I test drove seemed to be idling slightly rough. I've heard that's normal for these trucks but at the same time, due diligence. So I figured I would ask the mechanic to specifically look into some aspects of that. Then it dawned on me that as long as I'm paying the bill I can ask for whatever the hell I want and should probably do so. So here's what I've got so far. I'm curious if the forum can think of some stuff to add onto this. On top of a normal PPI, I'll be asking them to do the following. Any thoughts? AFM Lifters / Camshaft Use scanner to inspect misfire counts at idle/load Listen for lifter tick or metallic clatter on cold start Check cam lobes via boroscope if lifters are suspect Oil consumption Check PCV system Inspect intake tube and throttle body for oil pooling Timing Chain tensioner Look/listen for rattle on cold start or cam/crank correlation codes Scanner: Monitor cam phaser data for jumpy or slow response Crankshaft end play / rear main seal Inspect for excessive crank movement or rear main leaks Transmission (8L90) shudder test Perform shudder test: 4th-6th gear at ~35-55mph under light throttle Check for torque converter clutch engagement surging Verify if updated Mobil 1 LV ATF HP fluid has been used Motor Mounts Inspect for carbon buildup on intake valves Magnetic ride control Shocks/Struts Look for leaking shock oil or bouncy ride Use scanner to check MRC damping response and sensor valves Air Suspension (if equipped) Check for slow compressor, sagging rear end or DTCs for height sensors Upper Control Arms Look for early wear of bushings and ball joints Look for looseness during front end inspection Steering rack internal leaks / effort variation Feel for inconsistent steering assist or wandering Inspecft for fluid seepage and EPS DTCs Transfer case fluid condition Check for burnt smell or dark fluid Test 4WD engagement Parasitic draw from liftgate or radio modules Use milliamp draw test after shutdown. Look for >50 mA sustained draw. Condenser Leaks Check for oily residue at condenser seams If A/C is weak but system still holds charge, suspect expansion valve Heater core partial blockage Check for temperature imbalance between driver/passenger side Roof Rack seal leaks Check headliner for signs of water intrusion from rack gaskets