For comparison, I run 5W30 in mine. I found the hot pressure to be almost 10psi higher with the 30wt and no loss in MPG. It just gives me better piece of mind when towing and doing truck stuff. I wouldnt sweat using the 5W20 oil you bought.
I did Bilstein 5100 on the top setting (1.8") and then added a 0.25" spacer under the shocks for another 1/2" and a total of about 2.25" level. Ride is slightly firmer from the Bilstein, but much more controlled. Not uncomfortable in any way. I felt no difference going from just the Bilstein level to later adding the spacer underneath. 2019-04-17_01-22-30 by Mike Kubiak, on Flickr
These trucks look good! Anyone have more info on the wiring and where to pick up the power from? I have a set of cab lights for the '07-13 generation that I was going to put on my 2000 but never got around to it. Then I got rid of that for my '18. I think they would look good on the K2 as well, and they only require round holes.
I tow an open steel car trailer with my race car on it, and about 750lbs of gear, spares, food, etc. in the bed. This is around 6000-6500 total. The truck doesnt even know the trailer is back there. IT tows WAY better than my 2000 3/4 ton would with the same load. I do have the NHT as well. You should have no problem if you can find an NHT.
I have approximately a 2.25" level and I have 285/70R17 tires on 17x9 wheels with a -12 offset. Mine stick out slightly past the fenders, and the only trimming I had to do was on the little plastic guard the wraps around the lower rear portion of the wheel well. Since your wheels will be farther inboard than mine I dont see you needing to trim anything. You may have to do the zip tie mod to pull the fender liner closer to the frame.
I had a 6.0L 2000 3/4 ton before getting my '18 1/2 ton 5.3L NHT. The 6.0L got 12mpg no matter what I did. Highway 12. City 12. Towing my race car loaded with gear in the bed, 12. I now get around 19-21 hwy, 16-17 city and about 14-15 towing. All around better than the old 3/4 ton and rides so much nicer. If I were to get another 3/4 ton it would be diesel but that wasnt in the budget when I was shopping for a new truck. This also doubles as my DD and I have heard a diesel doesnt make the best DD.
I had to order my NHT. When I was looking to buy there were 4 total NHT CC Standard bed Silverados in the country (new, not used) and none of them close to me. My dealer reached out to the closest state and asked to trade for the one they had, but they just ignored him. I feel like I missed out on some bargaining power by ordering vs buying off a lot, but I still got a good deal and I got EXACTLY what I wanted.
The only changes are Bilstein 5100 shocks with the fronts on the highest setting, and then a 1/4" spacer on the bottom strut mount for an additional 0.5" lift. Im around 2.25" total level on the front, rear is all stock.
I specifically wanted a crew cab standard bed. I have 2 kids in carseats and knew by my brother's double cab that wasnt going to work. When I tow my racecar to the track I used to have to fold the middle seats down in my Yukon XL and remove the 3rd row to get all my gear, spares, food, tools, etc in. A short bed was not going to be long enough. If you learn to back in to spots and use your mirrors, tighter spaces like parking garages and such are not a big deal. Backing into a spot is easier going in as well as leaving with the longer wheelbase. If you try to nose into a spot it may take several attempts to get it straight. I have zero regrets or complaints about mine. Love it!
I have to actually measure the fenders, but I had originally lifted the front with Bilstein 5100 shocks on the max setting. This is supposed to be 1.86" of lift but it still had abit of rake to it. I installed 0.25" thick spacers under the bottom shock mount for another 0.5" of lift and it looks pretty level now. Maybe 1/2-3/4" of rake max.
For regular hauling or towing I do not recommend going over payload (like others have mentioned), but for a 1 time trip only 400lbs over I think you should be OK. Like all the others who said it before me, drive slow, plan ahead, long braking distances, etc. Just be careful.
Here is a video my detailer sent me during the correction. Notice all of the imperfections in the paint on a truck with less than 50 miles on it! The second is after the correction. received_1795450830503335.mp4 received_1796332443748507.mp4
I paid $1200 to have my truck corrected and ceramic coated. He took a few hundred off because I literally drove from the dealer to his shop to get it done. Less time for contamination to build up. Its worth the cost if you plan to enjoy your investment for a long time. If you lease vehicles or change them every couple years, then probably not worth it at all.
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