I have been running the new Firestone Destination A/T2 tires that just came out in August of this year. I have been very happy with them I am running the P285/70R17 which is 33", but there is a 275/60R20 which is also a 33".
I think my best was around 24-25mpg. That is in a 4x4 CC 6.5ft bed with 3.42 gears. Now I have a 2.5" level and 33" tires. While they are still P metric they are heavier than OE. I get about 19-20 highway and 16 city now. I wont come anywhere close to those numbers! haha
Yes, if its a look you are going for most of the larger sizes above 33" are all LT. LT's are not needed for a 1/2 ton though, and the OP was looking for a size offered in P metric. Most LT tires do NOT have addition plys. A lot of the A/T and M/T manufacturers add a 3rd ply because the general public thinks it is needed. If you look at a load range E A/T (with or without a 3rd ply) and the same size load range E highway tire, they will have the same load rating and only 2 plies in the highway tire. It is a common misconception that more plies are better, but its tough to educate the market enough to take them out.
P metric tires are rated for more load than the truck is rated for. P metric and LT tires in most cases have the same number of plies and the sidewall is no more durable on an LT than P metric. LT tires are designed around higher inflation pressures and will cause irregular wear at lower p metric pressures (see pictures above). LT tires are heavier and reduce fuel mileage quite a bit. I tow and go off road with my P metric A/T tires and haven't had a single puncture or wear issue in 20K miles.
So here is my take. After only a 1K miles or so the Hawk pads are different, but not super noticeable in day to day driving. When bedding them and they were warm, both peak torque and initial bite were much better than the OE stuff. However, in the morning when they are back to ambient temps they do not feel much different than OE. The pedal feels a bit more solid, so that tells me that dont need as much pressure to work like the OE pad, but they need some heat to get the better feel. While towing the car trailer I notice the truck stops quicker as they heat up (imagine a panic stop on the highway). As the brakes build up heat the rate of decel during the stop increases. I have not put enough miles on them to comment on dust or wear. Overall, if you are putting them on for a noticeable feel they are probably not worth the money. For a DD that sees some time towing heavier loads (car trailer, travel trailer, etc.) they are beneficial. I can see them really shining towing through hills or winding mountain roads where you are more frequently using the brakes. My tow this past weekend was all highway.
What about paint protection film (PPF)? It goes on clear and most people wont even see it. It will protect against rock chips a good amount. I was quoted $450ish to do the lower sides of my crew cab 6'6" bed truck.
I tow with my truck every now and then and I just swapped out the OE stuff (not worn out at all) at 20K miles for Hawk LTS pads on new Centric Premium rotors. Initial impressions are positive, but I will see how they do towing, and after a couple miles before giving my opinion. I was told by the Hawk rep that the LTS provide increased torque and fade resistance over OE but are still friendly enough for a DD and they are supposed to be low dust also.
I have 285/70R17 on 17x9 wheels but I already had a 2.5" level when I put them on. My wheels have a -12 offset so I still had to pull the fender liner back and cut a small amount off the plastic trim on the lower rear section of the front wheel well. I think a 285/70R17 would be a tight fit with no lift/level.
Method 17x9 -12 offset Bridgestone P285/70R17 Revo3 (I am going to be getting a set of the new Firestone Destination A/T2 when they launch in August. They are 3 Peak Mountain Snowflake rated) 2019-03-02_01-00-57 by Mike Kubiak, on Flickr 2019-03-02_12-59-39 by Mike Kubiak, on Flickr 2019-03-02_12-59-58 by Mike Kubiak, on Flickr
For comparison, I run 5W30 in mine. I found the hot pressure to be almost 10psi higher with the 30wt and no loss in MPG. It just gives me better piece of mind when towing and doing truck stuff. I wouldnt sweat using the 5W20 oil you bought.
I did Bilstein 5100 on the top setting (1.8") and then added a 0.25" spacer under the shocks for another 1/2" and a total of about 2.25" level. Ride is slightly firmer from the Bilstein, but much more controlled. Not uncomfortable in any way. I felt no difference going from just the Bilstein level to later adding the spacer underneath. 2019-04-17_01-22-30 by Mike Kubiak, on Flickr
These trucks look good! Anyone have more info on the wiring and where to pick up the power from? I have a set of cab lights for the '07-13 generation that I was going to put on my 2000 but never got around to it. Then I got rid of that for my '18. I think they would look good on the K2 as well, and they only require round holes.
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