I believe since the torque curve is flat and the engine is near max torque for so long, it allows the engine to rev a little higher and have more HP before shifting. Having both the HP and torque near their peak or meeting point is ideal. Others that have the 3.0 can offer more insight, I'm sure.
That's what I noticed. The seats in the refresh aren't a firm as the others. Granted, I had a 2500 HC and a 2500 Denali, but the seats were the same. These new ones seem to have more give to them. However, as you said, will they hold up as well as the others. What I've always noticed is that while the GM truck seats were much firmer than that of Ford or RAM, they held up better over time and didn't get flat or sink.
ShotgunZ71 replied to Truston Gunter's topic in 6.6L Gas V8 & HD Transmission Powertrain (L8T/MYD)Shew, newdude! I had to re-read the quoted post a few times until I realized your 257mi was a typo. You meant gallons, I see. I was thinking no way in the world is 1 qt/257mi acceptable for any engine.
The tailgate switch interrupts the power circuit going to the latch mechanisms for the inner gate. No worries about switch in console or fob, as they only release the main gate.
The ones I have will only lockout the inner gate. Everything else functions normally. Haven't heard of many GM tailgates dropping on their own, but I suppose it is possible. Not overly concerned about that scenario, though. It was a pretty quick install and the directions are straightforward and simple. I've not had any issues with either that I've had. They've worked well and no other problems with them being erratic or otherwise.
My refresh Silverado LTZ does the same. The top part unlatches, you drop the main gate, the inner part still comes down. Perhaps it's not active on all models. Personally, I've installed www.tailgatefix.com on my past 2 trucks with the Multi-Pro/Flex tailgate. That's worked great for several years and I don't need a goofy looking hitch, either.
I say "no", there's no such thing. Normal driving is perfectly fine. I drive my vehicles normal from the test drive to the time I trade or sell. I go above 55, sometimes even have to brake hard. No issues to date. Yes, even a few heavy-foot moments with less than 1000 miles have occurred. Don't do these things repetitively and all should be good. Not going to purchase a vehicle and ****-foot the test drive or the first 500 or 1000 miles. That's just crazy. Don't flog it continuously, but don't baby it either.
Yeah, it is thin, for sure. I remember changing the oil in a minivan the wife drove several years ago and it was 0W-20, also. I was like this is just Crisco vegetable oil! Peanut oil for frying a turkey is thicker than that! LOL! Amazing how engine and oil technology has evolved over the years to what we have today. Not all are perfect, but the advancements made are pretty impressive. Enjoy your new truck, FJB.
My Silverado with the 6.2 has 5700 miles on it, of which there are over 600 towing our TT. Oil life is currently at 24%. Checked it this weekend and it's between the hash marks and still has a golden hue to it. It'd be nice to get the module for a few retrofits by the time it's due and done, but it's no rush. OCI's, whether the first or simply one of many, are a personal preference and likely good either way one chooses. 500, 3000, 5000,7500, 10%, whatever.
I'd monitor it closely. It should not burn a quart every 4000 miles, even if doing hauling or towing. I know the old saying of "a quart every 3000 miles" when that was the norm for changes, but engines are tighter and more advanced now. You shouldn't have excessive consumption under the driving conditions you describe.
Air up your stock rear tires when towing to 45-50 psi and get a good weight distribution hitch for your travel trailer. This changes will make a big difference in that "pogo" feeling you describe. The stock tires only have a 6-ply sidewall, so they will flex more that a D or E rated tire, which you could always upgrade to. The higher psi helps eliminate some of that squishy feeling. The WDH will help take some tongue weight and move it to the front of the truck to balance things better, and also help reduce sway. I recently downsized from a large 5th wheel and 2500 to now going back to a travel trailer and a 1500. It takes a few tweaks to my setup after the first couple trips to get it driving and riding better. Much depends on how often you will tow and how far when you do.
This is quite true of today's engines. When the engines and transmissions are in a tighter temperature range, it is best for operation and efficiency. People taking the thermostat out of a car, ultimately makes the engine run hotter/colder and not as efficient or good for the engine. Same with the current crop of transmissions that have a thermostat to keep them in a particular range under driving conditions. None of it makes sense thinking of the old-school ways, but it's the way things are designed now and likely why longevity is much better these days from a mechanical perspective.
Good write-up! Thanks for sharing. I've come to like the console shifter as well. You're right, the console doesn't loose much, if any, storage. Also, the L9 trick doesn't work on the refresh trucks. Entirely new electrical system. That's apparently why many mods from 19-21 aren't compatible with these refreshed trucks.
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