ShotgunZ71 replied to texasnavy05's topic in 6.6L Gas V8 & HD Transmission Powertrain (L8T/MYD)I did not tow the first 500 miles on my 2020 High Country. I did, however, tow several times before the first oil change. It's says that it's "recommended", not required. All that verbiage is skeptical, at best. Many contractors (the bulk of all HD truck buyers) use the trucks hard from day 1, as this is how they make money. Doesn't matter the make, or fuel type, they just work the trucks. Most have no issues and none to public knowledge have had issues related to not doing a proper break-in. Many people have traded trucks while towing or hauling. They simply unhooked from one truck, hooked to the new truck and went on their way. Yes, avoiding these things early on may help, but I've heard of none that said otherwise with any factual data. It's best for one to do what they feel comfortable doing and just enjoy their purchase.
You can also just reset the OLM now, with the 800 miles on it. I wouldn't change the oil just to reset the monitor. Reset the monitor without changing the oil, then drive it a few hundred or thousand miles to see how the OLM reacts. Then you'd have a better idea of accuracy.
Yes, a large message will appear in the DIC when you get to the low fuel level. It is usually in the 50-60 mile range on my truck. The gauge needle is closer the the "E" line than in past, so don't let that alarm you.
ShotgunZ71 replied to Carolina's topic in 6.6L Gas V8 & HD Transmission Powertrain (L8T/MYD)Thanks for the review on towing in the mountains. I've had my 5th wheel in some rolling hills so far, but not the mountains with my 6.6 gasser. I, too, noticed if you stay above 3000-3500 it will keep speed without slowing down and then having to play catch up. Sometimes I'd lock out 5th and 6th so that the RPM would be elevated. At 70 mph in 4th I am at 3000 and in 3rd it is around 4000. Your fuel mileage was pretty decent, too.
You'll have plenty of wire. My 5th wheel is 42' and there is enough spare that I coil it loosely at the front king pin. I've not tried to "trick" it to do the invisible part, but it does give a nice view of the back of the camper and side mirror cameras. Very helpful, especially when backing. You can also leave it on as you're travelling down the road. Not real sure if it will even try to calibrate being that my camera is mounted near the top of my camper due to a large window on the back of it. I may try to see what it does next trip to see if it will calibrate and give an idea of an invisible trailer.
It's a funny thing how I see the seat and ride comfort. I find the seats to be firm, but comfortable. I've had a F250 Platinum before the new Silverado and here is my take: The Ford has softer seats, but a stiffer ride and the Chevrolet has firmer seats but a softer ride. Almost like a trade off. Honestly, the solid front axle in the Ford makes the biggest difference in the ride. I also have a 1999 GMC that I purchased new. Just a couple months ago I finally had to replace the cover on the driver's seat bottom. All of the cushioning was still in great shape.
When I had my 2015, the exhaust smell, exhaust sound (mainly at idle) and lower MPG (while looking at the DIC) were how I knew it was doing a regen. Unless you try to be aware of them, you'll rarely know when it's doing a regen. Pretty smooth, honestly. Not sure if the newer ones would be more or less noticeable for those "tuned" to the differences.
The 10-speed in the gas would be completely useless towing unless GM gets the programming right and lets it downshift to keep the RPM in the power band before it's too late. That's why the Ike test was such a joke. Any normal, sane person would have put the truck in "M" and selected the top gear themselves, instead of letting the ECM/TCM do it. The 10-speed with more aggressive tuning would help, but if it's tuned more for economy instead of working, it'll be a waste. When I'm towing in grades, I always lock out the upper gears so that it won't shift up too soon then try to "catch up" when the speed drops too much. Always easier to maintain speed than play catch up.
Having the 5th wheel kingpin changed to a Reese Goose Box is about as simple and clean as you can get. They are a little more pricey than the bed kingpin hitches that are usually seen, but the only thing you need is the ball in the bed. The ride is dampened with an airbag included in the hitch that can be adjusted for comfort or necessity. They have a 16k or 20k version, depending on how heavy your 5er is. There are many options to choose from, but the Reese is my preferred setup for the clean bed when not towing. It is also the only gooseball connection that Lippert approves of for their frames. Just some money changing hands, I'm sure, but still worth noting if you're getting a newer 5er that has warranty.
My 5th wheel is 42' and around 14,500 loaded up and the gas pulls it fine. Mostly flatland and some rolling hills, but it does great. If we towed in the mountains more often or lived there, I may have considered the diesel. Very happy with my choice so far.
The moral of this, albeit off-course discussion, is that if towing near max capacity, keep the new 6.6 in the 3500-4500 RPM range to maximize both peak HP and peak TQ for extended pulling up steep grades. Generally unnecessary on flat ground, but there when you need it. Same with any gasoline engine under max load. Finding the sweet spot between peak HP RPM and peak TQ RPM is where it will shine.
They might as well do a test with the 6.6 gas vs a 6.7 PS, too. After all, the 7.3 and 6.7 PS are both optional engines, whereas the 6.6 gas is standard. While they are at it, compare both 6.6 engines head to head, also. They never mentioned the fact that it was an optional engine. They basically used an optional engine, optional rear gear and optional transmission to compare against GM's standard offering. It should have absolutely performed better than the GM, but you have to pay more for that performance. The 6.2 I had in my Platinum was a great engine. I had the 3.73 in that and the Torqshift-G transmission. Great combo for what I needed. They should compare the 6.2 to the 7.3 using same rear ends in each to show how much improvement the 7.3 really is over the standard engine.
In another post, you see where I stated that the RPM @ 70mph is 3000 in 4th and 4000 in 3rd. Rarely need to lock out down to 3rd, just an example. Locking out 5th and 6th when needed keeps the RPM in the ranges where torque is more readily available.
I've had no issues locking out 5th and 6th gears and letting the RPM stay in the 3000+ range. Not sure at what temp the ECM shifts it up, but all temps I can see stay in the normal range. Even locked out 4th and the RPM was 4000 at 70. Didn't mind it at all and it ran great. Now, if someone runs it in the red for extended periods, I can see where some protections may be in place.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 130 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,431 Guests (See full list)
- Michael Crisanto
- Jeremy Wilson
- Hogan Vinoski
- Stacy Conine
- james christy
- Ronn Swanson
- Hog Hunter
- Sean Manning
- Grumpy Bear
- Zackery Taylor
- Scott l roberts
- Brian Jones
- Paul Adlaf
- Michael Huddleson
- Dean Sterling
- MTU Alum
- Mike GMC
- David Withrow
- The Tos
- Chris Hughes
- Eddie 70
- Ithan Henry
- Michael Calverley