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ifixedit

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About ifixedit

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    Enthusiast

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  • Location
    MN
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    Black 2003 HD1500 Crew Cab
  1. You should be able to drop a 350 in it without problem and as far as motor mounts go, everything should bolt right up. Places like Summit and Jegs sell complete 350's ready to run quite reasonably priced, or as long blocks and all you generally need to supply are things like the intake, valve covers, distributor, carb and so on. If it were me, I'd look for a 1996-2000 long block with the vortec heads (no, 305's of any year do not have vortec heads), but you would need to verify that the long block you buy has provisions for a mechanical fuel pump. Why a 350 with vortec heads? Arguably the vortec heads are the best out of the box iron heads GM ever produced, including those from the hot rod days of the 1960's and up to 1970. Their only limitation without machine work is camshaft lift which is limited to about .450 lift, some say you can go a bit more, but for a truck you're looking for torque, not high RPM, so a high lift cam is not needed anyways and there are several aftermarket cams that will stay under the lift limitation and give you tons of low end torque and you'd make 300 HP pretty easy. The other plus is if you go with the 1996-2000 engine you get the roller cam block, so no worries about breaking in a flat tappet cam shaft. Summit and Jegs have cams they can recommend and would work nice. I'd go with a dual plane intake designed for idle to 5500 RPM operation (the intake will have to be for vortec heads), a 600 CFM carb such as an Edelbrock performer and you could throw a set of headers on it (also from Summit or Jegs), a free flowing dual exhaust and you'd have a nice combo that would be fun to drive. You'll be fine with the transmission you have and you really wouldn't want to throw much more power at it than the recipe I outline here. One thing not mentioned in your question: Is your truck computer controlled or is that part long gone?
  2. 1988 k1500 rpm

    Most 'from the factory' small block Chevy's will indicate a red-line around 4500 RPM on the factory tachometer. You can run them safely up to around 5500 RPM, but why beat on it? You wouldn't be gaining anything anyways as the stock camshaft specs will not be targeted for this high an RPM. I also like to play it on the safe side with stock bottom end components and stay under 5000.
  3. You're exactly the kind of customer the shops like and are hoping walk in the door every day! Easy money.
  4. If you messed up the plug wires you'd think you'd at least get a pop or a backfire when cranking. Did you check for spark at the plugs? If your truck has the same rinky dink distributor cap as my 98 Yukon they're kind of a joke and after sitting, especially when the cap gets older and if it's been wet or damp they can be stubborn to start. I think what happens when the cap gets bad is yes you do get spark, but it's erratic and is jumping all over under the cap and not going to the wire it should be going to, hence it won't start. I've had a similar issue in the past and again recently with my Yukon, l put a new cap and rotor on it and the thing fired right up, no issues since. Does your cap look like this? >>>https://www.1aauto.com/distributor-cap-and-rotor-kit/i/1aedk00042?f=699211&y=1998&utm_campaign=gb_csv_br&utm_content=EDK&gclid=Cj0KCQjwierMBRCHARIsAHl9i4HNUcqa2OfCGdwyppmvDtnQAvj4EQnDqNMpyKEVpyvri-AH-ZnFYRwaAjd_EALw_wcB
  5. Plug for the water temp sensor on the drivers side cylinder head? If it's that short it probably wouldn't be long enough to reach anything on the intake manifold, and if it was anything unplugged there I'm sure the check engine light would be on. Could also be the plug to the original horn?
  6. Ahhh, blown head gasket. That could definitely cause that type of noise. Had a slightly leaking head gasket on my 350 in my Camaro last summer after a rebuild, it was kind of a chirping metallic squeaking sound off and on and I could not for the life of me figure out what the issue was. Once I had the head (Dart, junk!) off you could see a dark spot on the block deck surface where the exhaust gases had been escaping under the gasket. Fortunately for me there was no coolant leak. I turned the Darts in and got a refund, put on a set of GM Vortecs and VIOLA! Runs like a champ!
  7. A bad flex plate can be tough to determine without removing it as they crack very close to the bolt holes which is tough to see when the converter is in the way. It's possibly the flex plate but I'd more so suspect the torque converter itself. A bad converter will usually make a clunking or ticking sound when they are getting bad, it may also make a creeking or kind of a metal on metal scraping sound when you go from drive to reverse with your foot on the brake. Can you remove the tranny dust / inspection cover and let it idle in park while you take a look at the converter spinning from under the truck? If it's the converter it will be pretty obvious, you'll be able to hear it. A bad or vibrating converter could also cause the engine to feel like the idle is rough.
  8. Depending on your answer to the above I'm guessing so far something transmission related.
  9. Is the idle rough in both park / neutral and in gear, or just when it's in gear?
  10. Diagnose Engine Noise

    The 6.0 in my 03 has always been a bit clickity clacky as well, and I also suspect it's the injectors making the noise. As others have said here, these engines are a bit noisy. I'll also agree with the others here, I don't think it's lifters or you'd really hear it, especially on cold start up. If it is lifters another trick is dump in a quart or two of kerosene before you change the oil, let it idle for a few minutes and then change the oil, the kerosene serves the same purpose, flushes the engine. Did that on my 98 Yukon that had pretty bad lifter click on cold start up, cured it 100%.
  11. That is a very good practice.
  12. O.K., I'll try clear up a bit of confusion here. The tires you have on your truck right now have a 110 rating which means they are good for 2337 lbs. per tire and should be at the max 44 psi. if you are coming in close to the 2337 lbs. per tire rating. 2337 x 4 = 9348 lbs. total that the 4 tires are rated to safely carry @ 44 psi. In order to figure out how much additional room you have to play with in terms of what extra lbs. you can load them down with you will need to know the weight of the vehicle including passengers, cargo and all fluids topped off first. This tire size is a low profile more of a 'touring / high performance' tire (not a heavy haul truck tire), again typically seen on SUV's meant to carry the vehicle, passengers and 'normal' cargo + maybe a small trailer or boat, not much more. Googling your Escalade I see weights coming in from 5700 to around 6000 lbs. but it doesn't state whether or not that's with fluids. Then you have to add in passengers and cargo, etc. I'd estimate by the time all is factored in you could easily be adding another give or take 1500 lbs., so now you're tipping the scales somewhere in the 7500 lbs. range. This means you've got a cushion of somewhere around 2000 lbs. additional weight to play with. Next question is, how much tongue weight on this trailer of yours? I don't know, just me, but overall it sounds like your getting up pretty darn close to the limit on the tires and asking them to perhaps do a bit more than they are meant to. The highest rated tire in this size is going to have a 114 rating which bumps you up to 2601 lbs. per tire at max inflation of 50 psi which is 264 lbs. per tire more carrying capacity than the tires you have on it now. For 4 tires total with the 114 rating that's good for 10,404 lbs @ 50 psi. Bridgestone, Yok and Toyo, among others offer a 114 rated tire in the 285/45R22 size. I can say this for sure, if you stick with the tires you have and you're going to do what you plan with this trip, at a minimum I would CERTAINLY bump them up to the 44 psi. and no less, AND watch your top speeds. Forget the chalk ideas and other tricks to read tires. A good / accurate tire pressure gauge, a tread depth gauge, and a good eye are all you need.
  13. I sell commercial truck tires for a living. The only way to be sure is check the sidewall of the tires. Each tire size (and it's given load range rating) will be stated on the sidewall showing the max weight capacity per tire in lbs. at a given air pressure of 'X' psi. Based on the 44 psi it certainly sounds like what you have are not at least 10 ply 'LT' tires (they generally indicate around 80 psi @ max weight). For what you're towing and the long distance traveling, especially with the summer temps and high speed operation, I would surely recommend for that kind of weight in an already heavy vehicle as it is that you go with the LT tire if the tires you have on now don't show sufficient numbers for what you are doing. It's fairly typical on SUV's to not see the higher ply rated tires for ride reasons, but then you are limited to what you can tow. It is true that you should raise your air pressure to the stated 44 psi if you are maxing the tires out. The 44 psi is a cold reading when the tires are cool such as when the truck has sat overnight as an example. The tires will heat up as you drive and additional pressure will build in the tire as they reach and are running at operating temperature, the engineers factor this into the tire design. However, generally speaking, if a tire wears faster on the outer ribs vs. the center, the tire is being run (at operating temperature) under inflated, if it wears faster in the middle of the tread it is being run (at operating temperature) over inflated, but this will also depend some on the tread pattern design and some can be tricky to determine if over or under inflated. Some tread pattern designs will display both the outer ribs and center rib that is wearing faster than the second row of lugs as an example, if this is the case this is also an indication of over inflation. Bottom line, you're probably pushing the tires you have now to the limit and they are very likely not rated to 'safely' carry the weight of the vehicle, the load inside the vehicle (full tank of fuel, occupants, cargo, etc.,), plus the load of the trailer at highway speeds of 70+ MPH. Unless you can verify max load (weight per tire) capacity and it's in the safe zone with some room to spare, I wouldn't take the chance with what you have on now.
  14. By 1978 the small block Chevy had been basically 'killed' by emissions and low compression figures and were developing the lowest figures known to man. The highest rated 350 in 1978 was putting out around a whopping 175 HP (on a good day) at best and that was likely in the Corvette, this one is probably in the 165 HP category. I can't help on the trans case but the tranny itself I would think is either a TH350 or TH400. As far as determining rear axle gear ratio, there should be a metal tag somewhere on the rear diff, you'd need the numbers off of it to determine what rear end and gears it came with which you should be able to reference online or possibly even at either an auto parts store or a GM parts counter.
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