Everything posted by ifixedit
ifixedit replied to Mpalmer's topic in 1973-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Square Body / Rounded Line PickupsYou should be able to drop a 350 in it without problem and as far as motor mounts go, everything should bolt right up. Places like Summit and Jegs sell complete 350's ready to run quite reasonably priced, or as long blocks and all you generally need to supply are things like the intake, valve covers, distributor, carb and so on. If it were me, I'd look for a 1996-2000 long block with the vortec heads (no, 305's of any year do not have vortec heads), but you would need to verify that the long block you buy has provisions for a mechanical fuel pump. Why a 350 with vortec heads? Arguably the vortec heads are the best out of the box iron heads GM ever produced, including those from the hot rod days of the 1960's and up to 1970. Their only limitation without machine work is camshaft lift which is limited to about .450 lift, some say you can go a bit more, but for a truck you're looking for torque, not high RPM, so a high lift cam is not needed anyways and there are several aftermarket cams that will stay under the lift limitation and give you tons of low end torque and you'd make 300 HP pretty easy. The other plus is if you go with the 1996-2000 engine you get the roller cam block, so no worries about breaking in a flat tappet cam shaft. Summit and Jegs have cams they can recommend and would work nice. I'd go with a dual plane intake designed for idle to 5500 RPM operation (the intake will have to be for vortec heads), a 600 CFM carb such as an Edelbrock performer and you could throw a set of headers on it (also from Summit or Jegs), a free flowing dual exhaust and you'd have a nice combo that would be fun to drive. You'll be fine with the transmission you have and you really wouldn't want to throw much more power at it than the recipe I outline here. One thing not mentioned in your question: Is your truck computer controlled or is that part long gone?
Most 'from the factory' small block Chevy's will indicate a red-line around 4500 RPM on the factory tachometer. You can run them safely up to around 5500 RPM, but why beat on it? You wouldn't be gaining anything anyways as the stock camshaft specs will not be targeted for this high an RPM. I also like to play it on the safe side with stock bottom end components and stay under 5000.
If you messed up the plug wires you'd think you'd at least get a pop or a backfire when cranking. Did you check for spark at the plugs? If your truck has the same rinky dink distributor cap as my 98 Yukon they're kind of a joke and after sitting, especially when the cap gets older and if it's been wet or damp they can be stubborn to start. I think what happens when the cap gets bad is yes you do get spark, but it's erratic and is jumping all over under the cap and not going to the wire it should be going to, hence it won't start. I've had a similar issue in the past and again recently with my Yukon, l put a new cap and rotor on it and the thing fired right up, no issues since. Does your cap look like this? >>>https://www.1aauto.com/distributor-cap-and-rotor-kit/i/1aedk00042?f=699211&y=1998&utm_campaign=gb_csv_br&utm_content=EDK&gclid=Cj0KCQjwierMBRCHARIsAHl9i4HNUcqa2OfCGdwyppmvDtnQAvj4EQnDqNMpyKEVpyvri-AH-ZnFYRwaAjd_EALw_wcB
Plug for the water temp sensor on the drivers side cylinder head? If it's that short it probably wouldn't be long enough to reach anything on the intake manifold, and if it was anything unplugged there I'm sure the check engine light would be on. Could also be the plug to the original horn?
Ahhh, blown head gasket. That could definitely cause that type of noise. Had a slightly leaking head gasket on my 350 in my Camaro last summer after a rebuild, it was kind of a chirping metallic squeaking sound off and on and I could not for the life of me figure out what the issue was. Once I had the head (Dart, junk!) off you could see a dark spot on the block deck surface where the exhaust gases had been escaping under the gasket. Fortunately for me there was no coolant leak. I turned the Darts in and got a refund, put on a set of GM Vortecs and VIOLA! Runs like a champ!
A bad flex plate can be tough to determine without removing it as they crack very close to the bolt holes which is tough to see when the converter is in the way. It's possibly the flex plate but I'd more so suspect the torque converter itself. A bad converter will usually make a clunking or ticking sound when they are getting bad, it may also make a creeking or kind of a metal on metal scraping sound when you go from drive to reverse with your foot on the brake. Can you remove the tranny dust / inspection cover and let it idle in park while you take a look at the converter spinning from under the truck? If it's the converter it will be pretty obvious, you'll be able to hear it. A bad or vibrating converter could also cause the engine to feel like the idle is rough.
The 6.0 in my 03 has always been a bit clickity clacky as well, and I also suspect it's the injectors making the noise. As others have said here, these engines are a bit noisy. I'll also agree with the others here, I don't think it's lifters or you'd really hear it, especially on cold start up. If it is lifters another trick is dump in a quart or two of kerosene before you change the oil, let it idle for a few minutes and then change the oil, the kerosene serves the same purpose, flushes the engine. Did that on my 98 Yukon that had pretty bad lifter click on cold start up, cured it 100%.
O.K., I'll try clear up a bit of confusion here. The tires you have on your truck right now have a 110 rating which means they are good for 2337 lbs. per tire and should be at the max 44 psi. if you are coming in close to the 2337 lbs. per tire rating. 2337 x 4 = 9348 lbs. total that the 4 tires are rated to safely carry @ 44 psi. In order to figure out how much additional room you have to play with in terms of what extra lbs. you can load them down with you will need to know the weight of the vehicle including passengers, cargo and all fluids topped off first. This tire size is a low profile more of a 'touring / high performance' tire (not a heavy haul truck tire), again typically seen on SUV's meant to carry the vehicle, passengers and 'normal' cargo + maybe a small trailer or boat, not much more. Googling your Escalade I see weights coming in from 5700 to around 6000 lbs. but it doesn't state whether or not that's with fluids. Then you have to add in passengers and cargo, etc. I'd estimate by the time all is factored in you could easily be adding another give or take 1500 lbs., so now you're tipping the scales somewhere in the 7500 lbs. range. This means you've got a cushion of somewhere around 2000 lbs. additional weight to play with. Next question is, how much tongue weight on this trailer of yours? I don't know, just me, but overall it sounds like your getting up pretty darn close to the limit on the tires and asking them to perhaps do a bit more than they are meant to. The highest rated tire in this size is going to have a 114 rating which bumps you up to 2601 lbs. per tire at max inflation of 50 psi which is 264 lbs. per tire more carrying capacity than the tires you have on it now. For 4 tires total with the 114 rating that's good for 10,404 lbs @ 50 psi. Bridgestone, Yok and Toyo, among others offer a 114 rated tire in the 285/45R22 size. I can say this for sure, if you stick with the tires you have and you're going to do what you plan with this trip, at a minimum I would CERTAINLY bump them up to the 44 psi. and no less, AND watch your top speeds. Forget the chalk ideas and other tricks to read tires. A good / accurate tire pressure gauge, a tread depth gauge, and a good eye are all you need.
I sell commercial truck tires for a living. The only way to be sure is check the sidewall of the tires. Each tire size (and it's given load range rating) will be stated on the sidewall showing the max weight capacity per tire in lbs. at a given air pressure of 'X' psi. Based on the 44 psi it certainly sounds like what you have are not at least 10 ply 'LT' tires (they generally indicate around 80 psi @ max weight). For what you're towing and the long distance traveling, especially with the summer temps and high speed operation, I would surely recommend for that kind of weight in an already heavy vehicle as it is that you go with the LT tire if the tires you have on now don't show sufficient numbers for what you are doing. It's fairly typical on SUV's to not see the higher ply rated tires for ride reasons, but then you are limited to what you can tow. It is true that you should raise your air pressure to the stated 44 psi if you are maxing the tires out. The 44 psi is a cold reading when the tires are cool such as when the truck has sat overnight as an example. The tires will heat up as you drive and additional pressure will build in the tire as they reach and are running at operating temperature, the engineers factor this into the tire design. However, generally speaking, if a tire wears faster on the outer ribs vs. the center, the tire is being run (at operating temperature) under inflated, if it wears faster in the middle of the tread it is being run (at operating temperature) over inflated, but this will also depend some on the tread pattern design and some can be tricky to determine if over or under inflated. Some tread pattern designs will display both the outer ribs and center rib that is wearing faster than the second row of lugs as an example, if this is the case this is also an indication of over inflation. Bottom line, you're probably pushing the tires you have now to the limit and they are very likely not rated to 'safely' carry the weight of the vehicle, the load inside the vehicle (full tank of fuel, occupants, cargo, etc.,), plus the load of the trailer at highway speeds of 70+ MPH. Unless you can verify max load (weight per tire) capacity and it's in the safe zone with some room to spare, I wouldn't take the chance with what you have on now.
By 1978 the small block Chevy had been basically 'killed' by emissions and low compression figures and were developing the lowest figures known to man. The highest rated 350 in 1978 was putting out around a whopping 175 HP (on a good day) at best and that was likely in the Corvette, this one is probably in the 165 HP category. I can't help on the trans case but the tranny itself I would think is either a TH350 or TH400. As far as determining rear axle gear ratio, there should be a metal tag somewhere on the rear diff, you'd need the numbers off of it to determine what rear end and gears it came with which you should be able to reference online or possibly even at either an auto parts store or a GM parts counter.
Awesome find, especially with the big block! I'm jealous! I'll throw in a few things. First, unless I'm just not seeing it I don't see an intake point for the PVC. Put either a breather in the passenger side valve cover or run one of those metal lines from the valve cover to the bottom of the air filter base, without either you're putting a lot of suction on the crankcase which is not good for seals, etc. and could cause some leaks and oil consumption and also cause running issues. A good modern HEI distributor with an adjustable vacuum advance is another good add on which will help with both fuel economy and will wake it up some because of the benefits of the combined mechanical and vacuum advance which should be used on all 'street driven' vehicles of this vintage. As for the carb, unless the Q-Jet is leaking from the bottom plugs which is quite common (signs of it is hard starting or a seemingly flooded engine after it has been ran and then has sat for 20 or so minutes), the Q-Jets are very good street carburetors and all are actually rated to flow 750 cfm regardless of what people say and are actually quite simple to rebuild as well, you just need the numbers off the carb for the correct rebuild kit. If you want to go with a new carb I have pretty extensive experience with the Edelbrock performer and Thunder series (basically both are the same with exception of the adjustable air door on the secondaries of the Thunder series), and are very simple to tune and work on as well, easier than even the Q-Jet, there are available tuning kits which contain a selection of rods and jets, but I've found the Edelbrocks are quite good right out of the box. Nothing wrong with a Holley but they are a bit more work to take apart and tune and it usually involves changing both the jets and the power-valve which can be a bit of a guessing game compared to the ease I've found working on the Edelbrocks. If it's screaming at 60 MPH then I'd guess it's geared pretty low which most pickups were back in the day, so it should have a hell of a hole shot and run right up to 60 MPH in a hurry, if not I'd suspect the overall timing situation combined with a new distributor and the PVC situation I describe above would be good things to look at first. BTW: Use manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance, not timed (or what some refer to as ported). Other than that and the other suggestions made here, drive it and have fun!
First thing is pull the codes to see what it is telling you. You're likely to have 2 - 3 different codes. I don't have the code numbers in front of me at the moment but the likely codes to come up will pertain to issues with the TAC (throttle actuator control, DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME REPLACING IT!) or a correlation issue between the pedal sensor (the one on the gas pedal) and the TB (throttle body). If it is any of these codes it is likely just a simple grounding issue, the challenge is figuring out where the grounding issue is However, for more ideas and things to look at read through this entire post I did elsewhere here on the subject >>> http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/161040-dreaded-reduced-engine-power-issue/
Well, the only other guess I've got is what you saw coming out of the TB injector wasn't gas. Maybe you have some water in the tank? Again as mentioned above by muddkatt, it doesn't make any sense that it wouldn't run if it is getting both fuel and spark. Try squirting a shot of gas directly into the TB, then crank and see if it does anything. If it doesn't fire then I'd say there's some kind of intermittent disruption in the ignition.
Yep, if you've got spark and fuel it should run. Did anyone by chance either disturb the timing by moving the distributor or possibly mess with the plug wires and install them on the wrong cylinders?
Sorry, haven't visited this forum in awhile. No, there's really no way to tell if the cam is aftermarket unless there is a name or something possibly stamped on the end of the cam under the sprocket which is possible. I think companies like Comp and others will put their script on the end of the cam. I would not mess around advancing any further than one tooth, and really, advancing the cam that way is not a good way to do it in the first place. If you can rotate the engine with it advanced one tooth you should be fine. More than one tooth? Well, then you might be asking for trouble. The only way to verify 100% if the cam is installed correctly is to use a cam degree wheel. You can buy a cam degree wheel kit from places like Summit and it may be worth the investment at this point vs. pistons slamming into valves and / or if you ever want the truck to run correctly. If degreeing the cam over your head, a good mechanic or engine builder could verify cam installation for you.
Actually, in a lot of cases the camshaft maker will advise when installing the cam that you advance it 4 degrees which is more commonly done with a special crankshaft sprocket that is marked. But in your case in doing things the way you did this perhaps has now given you the correct cam placement. Your compression is now up to where it should be as well. Just rotate the engine by hand to make sure you don't have any contact between pistons and the valves (should not be an issue), then fire it up and see how it runs!
I wouldn't mess around advancing the cam gear, the main thing is to check to be sure when the dots are supposed to be lined up at the 6 and 12 positions as outlined above. If the dots don't line up as they should in the current state of things, then yes, go ahead and make the change so they do. I too would doubt it came from the factory with a roller timing chain, so it appears someone has been in there at some point in the past. Another thing is Chevy was known to use the cheap plastic tooth gears for the cam sprocket. Does it by chance have one of those? If so that could be the cause of the timing issue. A couple things that keep coming up for me is you report excessive ticking which could be collapsed lifters, worn cam lobes and the lifters can not sufficiently pump up to take up the additional slack, you've got lower than normal cranking compression which could indicate late valve timing or simply just a worn out motor with poor ring seal. Another possibility is you could have burned valves causing the poor compression, but if the compression is the same on all cylinders then I'd probably rule out burned valves. One thing you could do is try squirting some oil into a spark plug hole or two, then do a cranking compression test. If the compression goes up you've got bad ring seal and a worn out engine, if the cranking compression doesn't change it's then something to do with valves or valve timing. I'm thinking there's a good chance the previous owner changed the timing set and perhaps decided to install a new cam at the same time and just didn't break it in properly, then realized that after it was not running well decided to put it up for sale? In any case I'm still thinking you're going to have to tear into it further, I'd start with removing the intake so you can get at the lifters to fully determine what's going on.
Vacuum will go up to a certain RPM from idle if you raise the idle slowly, but at WOT the vacuum should be zero. Maybe a couple of questions here... How long have you had this truck? Have you done any of the engine work to it or is it as received? And, how long have you been having this problem? As far as the #6 cylinder thing goes, as long as the crank is rotated so the crank gear dot is at 12 o'clock and you turn the cam (without the chain on) and position the cam gear to 6 o'clock you can't goof things up, cam orientation will then be correct. Now, on to more possible issues.... Yes, you could have a cam that is completely worn out or has some badly worn lobes which would also explain the excessive ticking you hear. If this engine has been worked on in the past, rebuilt, freshened up, etc., etc., whoever installed the (new?) cam may have goofed badly and neglected to properly break the cam in and / or did not use oil with the proper amount of zinc in order to properly break the cam in and protect the it from excessive / premature wear. If your truck is an 86 and the engine is the original then that would indicate it has a flat tappet hydraulic (non roller) cam. In this day and age most oil companies have removed a significant amount of zinc from their oils and thus if this low zinc oil is used flat tappet cams get destroyed in short order. One oil I am aware of (and I use in my 1977 Camaro) is Valvoline ZR1 racing oil, it is available in both conventional and synthetic blends and contains the high amount of zinc needed for both proper break in and protection of the cam from excessive wear and should be used not only on break in but at each oil change as well. For break in I would not use the synthetic version, start with the conventional, then once the engine is broke in you can switch to the synthetic version if you like. You can of course also purchase a separate zinc additive that can be added to any regular low zinc oil as well, the stuff is available at most any auto parts store and folks like Lucas as an example make it. Unfortunately, the only way at this point you are going to know for sure if the cam is 'out to lunch' would be to remove the intake, pull the lifters and inspect them for wear, and if you've gone that far you might as well yank the cam for a look at it as well. Until you do that it's going to be a guessing game.
I like to have the #6 cylinder at top dead center to verify things correctly. With #6 @ TDC the crank sprocket dot will be (or should be) at the 12 o'clock position and the cam sprocket dot should be at the 6 o'clock position, thus aligning with each other. Any deviation from this and you've got trouble. Here's another post from here where I posted some info on this, scroll down to my reply and check out the links I provided >> http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/190936-i-am-confused/
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/engine-vacuum-test.html I would lean towards it's a late valve timing issue, the timing chain has likely jumped a tooth / and or it's a combination of that and a badly stretched timing chain. The ticking is probably being caused by a bent pushrod which can happen when the timing chain jumps. 145 psi for compression is pretty low and could also be a result of the timing chain jumping a tooth as the cam / valvetrain is now out of sync with the crank / pistons as the intake valves are now closing too late on the compression stroke which doesn't allow the compression to fully build up, your cranking compression should be around 160 + for a normal / healthy engine. There should also not be 7+ degrees of slack before the rotor on the distributor starts to move. Get the timing cover off to inspect, also pull the valve covers off and check for a bent pushrod or two.
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