davidm767

I've recently noticed after the last over-the-air update several weeks back that my camera selection on my 2024 LTZ is very glitchy. I'll tap a button several times and get no response. I eventually get it to process the request after rapidly tapping on it several times, but then I run into it cycling through the options when it does take. Anyone else experience this issue?

The fitment Doesn't show the HD series. I'm assuming the C1R worked fine since you said you installed one, correct?

Would love to know what if anything they come up with. I'm also not a fan of bringing the truck in for transient issues. My wipers have greatly reduced turning on when I hit the turn signals, but it still does it once in a blue moon.

Really depends on the area of the country too. In the SW, its a toss up between Rams and GMC/Chevy with fewer Fords in the RV campsites. Around town, personal owned HD trucks seem to be predominately GMC in AZ with Ford coming in second and Rams next. Now for work truck 1/2 tons, Fords seem to dominate, then its an equal mix of Rams and GM trucks driving around the Phoenix metro area. I know other parts of the country that its the other way around. Fleet pricing is the real driver for these trucks.

I'm having a bit of a head scratcher here. I intermittently trigger the wipers when ever I lift the turn signal lever (primarily the lane change signal not the fully engaged turn signal ). This is a tad annoying, but not life changing. My wife drives my truck almost as much as I do in the summer and she has the same intermittent issue. Again, this isn't all the time and it seems to be between start cycles too. Anyone else experience this? Was there a resolution to this? Thanks!

It’s finally out! Both the Derringer and the Ram-Air are available to purchase!

I also have the Larson low-pro hood protector. I installed it after a couple of months of driving in the desert and recognized my leading edge hood paint was getting pummeled by rock chips. After installing it I've had zero issues with paint chips or rocks hitting the hood. However my windshield is still just as vulnerable to flying rocks as it would be without. Thankfully I've been blessed to not have that happen...yet...but living in the desert, its only a matter of time.

I'm sending my '24 2500 LTZ back to the dealer for what will likely be its 2nd replacement battery in the last 6 months. Last Sep/October I started to notice the battery was exceptionally weak. It progressed rapidly into a situation where the battery/batteries flat out would lose minimum voltage to start and basically cause chaos on my truck. I took it to the dealer in early November (after coming home from a big trip) and had the dealer look at it. They diagnosed the #2 battery as bad and replaced it under warranty. Now 6 months later (really 4 months, I'm just now getting to it) I'm having the issue again. Am I having a bad battery issue, or is there a parasitic drain that I'm/dealer not catching? To add, I installed a NOCO 2A direct mount trickle charger to the truck and plug it in about 1-2 days/overnights to keep the truck fresh. Thoughts?

Thanks Steve for the update! Curiously will the intake and exhaust share the same roll out dates as the Derringer or will it be a phased roll out? Thanks!

Thank you for everyone's explanations. I'll stick to AUTO and tell my wife to do the same when needed. We are mostly desert dwellers and only visit the snow a few times a year for fun/ski trips. In years previous in my older truck I wouldn't throw it into 4x4 4HI or 4LO unless I'm in a bonafide NEED for 4x4 situations. With these new electronic transfer cases, and my wife's previous SUV being AWD, I may have been "out of practice" on what was what and when it was needed. I was a bit concerned about the smell the front diff was making when on very slushy/low traction roads in 4HI. I'll stick to AUTO for the Suburban from here on out unless we REALLY REALLY need it. Thanks!

We've been experiencing some issues with out 3.0L Suburban in 4HI since we've had it. The symptoms first manifested when I forgot to take the truck out of 4 Hi to climb some ramps on a sloped driveway. The truck was then driven 5 miles on flat terrain (by my wife -- and I know its not good for the vehicle) and during parking the vehicle began to lurch and bind when she turned the wheel (Felt like zero power steering and required a ton of power to even move). I confirmed this when I went to find out what she was talking about in the parking structure. This was all on surface streets so no greater than 50mph. It was completely resolved when I took it out of 4HI back into 2WD. The dealer had the vehicle for several days and couldn't re-create the issue, and of course they said the condition was normal (yea, no I've owned 4x4 vehicles for more than 25 years, I've never experience that). It happened again several months later -- binding while steering when we encountered some slippery roads and needed 4HI to accelerate from a stop. I took it out of 4HI back to 2WD, the problem went away. It seems sporadic. Today when driving slow on some icy mountain pass roads (below 25mph) the vehicle drove fine, but there was a smell (like a burning clutch). The smell was far more apparent inside the vehicle than outside. I'm at a loss. I'm going to replace the transfer case fluid when I get back from our ski trip (we're only at 25k miles). I rarely use 4HI because we don't need to, except when we do. Perhaps the fluid is low from the factory? Either way, has anyone else experienced this in their Suburban? Thanks!

Good to know, thanks Jay! I’ll probably use the old iDash on my wife’s 3.0L Suburban so we can see when it’s going into Regen. I’m excited for the release date for the ‘24! Any news on the Air intake and Exhaust?

Thanks! Does this mean the new HO version will only work with the iDash Pro? Or will we be able to utilize our existing iDash to with the new Derringer? Btw the HO numbers are phenomenal, it’s a substantial improvement from the existing Derringer offering. Thanks!

The Banks iDash does a great job giving you a percentage of actual fuel. The GM gauge can be off as much as 15% percent from indicated from the actual level. Since you have a gasser it may not be AS beneficial to run the iDash as much as the Duramax is, but it gives you a better information than stock gauges.

Honestly I replaced mine with the supplied bolt. I installed and torqued to spec. I've not heard that its a TTY bolt however and for the life of me don't know why it would be for a suspension component.