Core-Lokt

Thanks, y'all. After reading this, I ordered the Amsoil. It's quite a bit more than Valvoline full-synthetic, but I reckon it's worth the premium.

I'm going to change the fluids in both differentials and the transfer case. If anybody knows specs/capacities on these, could you post them? And is there a friction additive for the rear differential. Thanks in advance.

Forgot to add that I installed upfitter switches a while back, and went from the 175A? terminal end included with the kit, and the aluminum-wrapped cable in loom in the pic is the one running from main to isolator. Otherwise, I ran the cable along the firewall and probably most would think it OEM.

Hey, all. Been a hot minute since I've been here, but still enjoying my truck. The truck I ordered would've had dual batteries, but y'know, peak COVID supply chain issues. It's a less-than-optimal issue in that the isolator should've been by the main, but space is an issue. I'd been trying to figure out some of the parts, and this video filled in the blanks. He set his up like a diesel and I isolated them. His video will have the parts, and about the only thing I did differently was add a Recoil 500A smart isolator, Recoil terminal covers, and a Battery Tender pigtail. With the pigtail, I can plug in the Battery Tender voltmeter to the second battery. Initial start showed second battery at 12.7V, and upon start ramped up and dropped down to isolation voltage cutoff. There is a port you can plug a push-button lead into the isolator and override the isolation to jump the main. Not the point of the post, but I did put some pod lights on, too. They're from Nilight and pretty unremarkable except they have a thermostat to defrost. The brackets are from Parkwood Welding. I didn't get quite the truck I ordered, but little by little, I'm making it that way.

I ordered a truck a couple years ago, but it was held indefinitely for whatever reason. So I ended up with a truck not quite what I spec'ed out. One thing not on the truck I ended up with was dual batteries. I'd like to put in an auxiliary battery through an isolator, and was wondering if it's possible to attach a cable to the terminal I'm pointing to in the picture to do it. Please ask any questions if something isn't clear, and Thanks in advance for any help.

Are there any rear covers that retain access to the seatback doors? I've got some cheap Amazon covers on the front, but would like to get the rear covered.

With the right tools, it's ~30 minutes time, and easy enough. Again, with a Bose system, be careful drilling the large hole so as to not damage subwoofer. Picture three is at 30 minutes run time in 90+F ambient temperature on initial run, but you can see frost forming. Picture two is the internal illumination. The capacity is clearly sized for cans (9). For S&Gs, I got some of the mini 8 1/2 oz. bottles and you can get six in, but four will be sideways. I'll post if anything interesting occurs.

I ordered a 3 1/2" hole saw, but got a 3 9/16" one, so I had to return/re-order a 3 1/2" one. Finally everything came together and I got this refrigerator installed today. I have a few pics, but the linked videos are a tutorial themselves and no need to repeat.

Finally got it today; Camping World obviously drop-ships straight from Dometic. Would like to say I got it in, but a 3 1/2" hole saw I ordered at the same time hadn't even shipped. Maybe next week, although I am going out-of-town. Meanwhile, if anyone wants one, Dometic has them on sale at their website. They were $599.00 (pretty much the prevailing price everywhere I compared), and are now $479.00 RIGHT NOW.

Remember that issue I has with the dead pixel line on my screen? I was sent a GM survey and after getting it, they called me. Last week they sent me a voucher for $500 towards accessories (hell, I didn't really complain about the issue). They have Dometic portable refrigerators, and I'm thinking about redeeming the voucher towards a CFX3-35. Dometic is an old name with a solid reputation.

I think they're something you don't know you want until you have it-I'd say go for it.. The Dometic is a true refrigerator, though. This Video says it holds 37F.

Install Video ^Neglected to add install video link. I gather from another video there were two types-one for Bose, one without. The difference was the Bose version has the fan attached where the one in the link is the old-style non-Bose version. I guess Dometic realized there wasn't a need for two versions so the Bose-compatible one is what's available. Seems like the install is essentially the same; a 3 1/2" hole and a 1 1/8" hole and the loss of the console rear 12V power port.

Dometic CCF-T Figuratively and literally cool. They are pretty tight on pricing no matter where you look, so figure ~$580-600.

Truth. As they got wealthier, the whole cast became more smug. Roman and his kid are the worst part of the channel.

I've already got the front camera and kit; I think I'll probably get it done next month at the same time I'm putting on a replacement bumper and eliminate all the grille louvers but top and bottom. It doesn't seem hard, from watching videos. If I had to guess, what looks like the hardest part is pulling the rubber "duct" from between the door and cab/running the mirror cables through/reinstalling duct. On another vehicle, I ran wires for LED lights behind speaker grill, and the duct part was the worst. One video I saw, the installer mentions pulling the speaker to access the camera cable and attaching to the existing door harness rather than slitting a boot in the door.

Somewhere in your truck will be the wiring harness that runs from the back of the switches to the battery, a bag of bus bars/nuts, and a plug end. Unfortunately, you'll have to install all this-but it's easy and there's a write up and several YT tutorials about it. One the harness is run and plugged in behind the switches, there's a pigtail with five leads for accessories. All you have to do is just splice onto the pigtail and run the wire to power whatever accessory. Really, you could get the factory fog lights, cut the terminal off, and splice to the lead going to the upfitter switch pigtail. It's not as slick as the fog light switch built into some trucks, but it'll give you the OEM look. Or just get a $30.00 amazon light bar. Or whatever. That's cool you already have the basic setup; now you can run whatever your imagination or circuit fuse protection can handle.

Yeah I don't care for DRLs; makes me think I'm in a funeral procession They look damn good. And seriously, consider the upfitter kit. Looks like they've gone up, but you might find one less-costly. UPFITTER KIT And if you do go that way, be sure you double-check content. If it's selling appreciably less than that, it might not have everything.

No idea, but if anyone does, possibly 404Parts.

I never noticed, so I just went outside. Remote start turns on clearance lights and running lights. Press brake and those lights go out. It's ~6:00 PM CDT right now, so there's a lot of light. But no DRL. Then I thought maybe it needs to be in Drive, so I put in in D and engaged emergency brake; DRL illuminated. So yeah the Lasfit Pro H11 function in my truck ('23 LT) just fine. And now I know it has to be in Drive before they turn on. I leave for work ~5:00 AM and since headlamps are on Auto, they of course illuminate when remotely started. Be forewarned some of those caps are an SOB to get on, but like mentioned in Over The Hill Adventures YT video on Lasfit Pros, they will fit

Driving styles aside, that's about the economy I get on my '23. Hand calculations are pretty consistently 1 MPG less. Nice-looking truck!

IDK what the radio/bus system is like in the 1/2 tons; do all of them have the wide screen? Assuming everything is the same from LD to HD 2023 models then yes, you need the Intellihaul module that AFAIK only is in a kit with wireless rear camera setup and side mirror cameras. You have to have IOS-code radio (which on HD is only with 8" screen; think it's IOR with smaller screen, and IOT with factory navigation). There is a QR code on the driver door opening you can scan to find out what radio you have. Again, assuming all things equal, one can get a larger bezel, screen, and a programmed radio module. But spitballing price on self-install, that might equal the cost of the Intellihaul kit itself-and just gets worse with paid install.

The Z-71 skid plate is flimsy. I would look for something aftermarket. That corrugated plastic section in front that bolts to the skid plate is trash. Look for a post by Jettech1 about Lasfit Pro LED headlights. Mine have had zero problems and are super bright. Fog lights..IDK if they can be simply added. There may be wiring provision and certainly would need a new switch, but I think that's al running through the BCM and would need programming. Probably better to add aftermarket ones. A GM auxiliary switch kit is ~$175, relatively easy to install (particularly if you have jump seat instead of full console). That way, it's stock-appearance, no butchered wiring, and will never hurt resale drilling through a panel. Best to just browse this subforum and click whatever is relevant to your interests bc there's a lot of ideas here.

Probably too early to get part numbers for the panel and switch. Short of someone in the business coming up with the upfitter switch/panel information, your dealer's parts department is likely the best source right now. Clearance lights..I've yet to see a '24, but guessing since it's the same cab, the same lights as pre-refresh are used? LIGHT SET on ebay; just need the square punch.

The upfitter switches have a pigtail for a brake controller, IIRC. So if you were considering adding them (and the worst part of that install is removing/replacing interior panels), you can do both at the same time. Otherwise, here's a video CURT CONTROLLER 2022 SILVERADO HD

yay I feel officially a part of here since the bot replied Anyway, it went away after a couple of days. CarPlay was black-screened yesterday for a couple of run cycles.