Core-Lokt

Thinking on things over the week, I decided to use the remaining oil in the pouch. Basically, there's a gallon in the differential, minus a tiny bit of spillage and whatever remained in the bags. I think Banks designed this cover biased towards the standard Ram fill (some of those applications are greater than others, but by Amsoil's website, capacity is minimum about a pint greater than GM applications. In the picture, the differential appears fairly tilted, but it is really slightly tilted; the camera angle is skewed. With ~8 pints, the level is midway on the sight glass; you can see the center hole of the baffle to more closely judge the level. Regardless the 6.3 pint fill spec, I'm going to leave it as-is. I don't blame Banks for erring on the conservative side, and I don't know why there's such a difference in specs between GM and Ram. And I'd also speculate the cover volume is pretty much the same as the stamped steel, as @Chuck FB noted relative volume with his recollection of another member's fill experience.

Good find and points, sir.

I agree it's ambiguous, and somewhat complicated with a shared application. For S&Gs, I just looked on Amsoil's website for a 2023 Ram 2500 with 6.4 gas. https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2023/ram/2500-pickup/6-4l-8-cyl-engine-code-j-esb-j/ There's a lot of listings for Ram rear differentials, and too early in the morning to dig into the variants. But there's a big difference in fluid volume called for between them and GM applications, assuming it's the same axle assembly. So, if GM differentials tend to be underfilled, what does everyone think about a 7 pint fill, as opposed to the 6.3 pints listed on Amsoil's website? It would somewhat conservatively split the difference between Ram and GM specs.

I’m going off the instructions.

I think the Banks cover is higher capacity, given I don’t see oil in the sight glass. They say to observe factory capacity over sight glass. I used approximately 6 1/4 pints bc I assume not being able to fully drain bags, and a tiny bit of spillage when I squeezed. Got Amsoil ATF as-indicated on their website. I have gas engine and six speed. Transmission service will happen after the transfer case and front differential (I’ll likely get another cover with drain, also). Besides the dipstick mod, idk what’s all underneath the pan.

It's raining on and off today, but I was able to change the rear oil and cover before it started. I ended up getting the Amsoil 75W85 for the front, 75W90 for the rear, and the right fluid for the transfer case. I wanted a cover with a drain, so that's pretty much the reason for the aftermarket one. I have a Roadmaster sway bar and had to fabricate 1" spacers for clearance, so that might be helpful if anyone has that on their truck and considering the cover swap. Old oil had 60,000 miles and just the slightest metal fuzz on the magnet; everything looked super nice. Fourth pic is just to highlight the spacers to accommodate the cover. Those bags sure make it easier than the old siphon guns.

Thanks, y'all. After reading this, I ordered the Amsoil. It's quite a bit more than Valvoline full-synthetic, but I reckon it's worth the premium.

I'm going to change the fluids in both differentials and the transfer case. If anybody knows specs/capacities on these, could you post them? And is there a friction additive for the rear differential. Thanks in advance.

Forgot to add that I installed upfitter switches a while back, and went from the 175A? terminal end included with the kit, and the aluminum-wrapped cable in loom in the pic is the one running from main to isolator. Otherwise, I ran the cable along the firewall and probably most would think it OEM.

Hey, all. Been a hot minute since I've been here, but still enjoying my truck. The truck I ordered would've had dual batteries, but y'know, peak COVID supply chain issues. It's a less-than-optimal issue in that the isolator should've been by the main, but space is an issue. I'd been trying to figure out some of the parts, and this video filled in the blanks. He set his up like a diesel and I isolated them. His video will have the parts, and about the only thing I did differently was add a Recoil 500A smart isolator, Recoil terminal covers, and a Battery Tender pigtail. With the pigtail, I can plug in the Battery Tender voltmeter to the second battery. Initial start showed second battery at 12.7V, and upon start ramped up and dropped down to isolation voltage cutoff. There is a port you can plug a push-button lead into the isolator and override the isolation to jump the main. Not the point of the post, but I did put some pod lights on, too. They're from Nilight and pretty unremarkable except they have a thermostat to defrost. The brackets are from Parkwood Welding. I didn't get quite the truck I ordered, but little by little, I'm making it that way.

I ordered a truck a couple years ago, but it was held indefinitely for whatever reason. So I ended up with a truck not quite what I spec'ed out. One thing not on the truck I ended up with was dual batteries. I'd like to put in an auxiliary battery through an isolator, and was wondering if it's possible to attach a cable to the terminal I'm pointing to in the picture to do it. Please ask any questions if something isn't clear, and Thanks in advance for any help.

Are there any rear covers that retain access to the seatback doors? I've got some cheap Amazon covers on the front, but would like to get the rear covered.

With the right tools, it's ~30 minutes time, and easy enough. Again, with a Bose system, be careful drilling the large hole so as to not damage subwoofer. Picture three is at 30 minutes run time in 90+F ambient temperature on initial run, but you can see frost forming. Picture two is the internal illumination. The capacity is clearly sized for cans (9). For S&Gs, I got some of the mini 8 1/2 oz. bottles and you can get six in, but four will be sideways. I'll post if anything interesting occurs.

I ordered a 3 1/2" hole saw, but got a 3 9/16" one, so I had to return/re-order a 3 1/2" one. Finally everything came together and I got this refrigerator installed today. I have a few pics, but the linked videos are a tutorial themselves and no need to repeat.

Finally got it today; Camping World obviously drop-ships straight from Dometic. Would like to say I got it in, but a 3 1/2" hole saw I ordered at the same time hadn't even shipped. Maybe next week, although I am going out-of-town. Meanwhile, if anyone wants one, Dometic has them on sale at their website. They were $599.00 (pretty much the prevailing price everywhere I compared), and are now $479.00 RIGHT NOW.

Remember that issue I has with the dead pixel line on my screen? I was sent a GM survey and after getting it, they called me. Last week they sent me a voucher for $500 towards accessories (hell, I didn't really complain about the issue). They have Dometic portable refrigerators, and I'm thinking about redeeming the voucher towards a CFX3-35. Dometic is an old name with a solid reputation.

I think they're something you don't know you want until you have it-I'd say go for it.. The Dometic is a true refrigerator, though. This Video says it holds 37F.

Install Video ^Neglected to add install video link. I gather from another video there were two types-one for Bose, one without. The difference was the Bose version has the fan attached where the one in the link is the old-style non-Bose version. I guess Dometic realized there wasn't a need for two versions so the Bose-compatible one is what's available. Seems like the install is essentially the same; a 3 1/2" hole and a 1 1/8" hole and the loss of the console rear 12V power port.

Dometic CCF-T Figuratively and literally cool. They are pretty tight on pricing no matter where you look, so figure ~$580-600.

Truth. As they got wealthier, the whole cast became more smug. Roman and his kid are the worst part of the channel.

I've already got the front camera and kit; I think I'll probably get it done next month at the same time I'm putting on a replacement bumper and eliminate all the grille louvers but top and bottom. It doesn't seem hard, from watching videos. If I had to guess, what looks like the hardest part is pulling the rubber "duct" from between the door and cab/running the mirror cables through/reinstalling duct. On another vehicle, I ran wires for LED lights behind speaker grill, and the duct part was the worst. One video I saw, the installer mentions pulling the speaker to access the camera cable and attaching to the existing door harness rather than slitting a boot in the door.

Somewhere in your truck will be the wiring harness that runs from the back of the switches to the battery, a bag of bus bars/nuts, and a plug end. Unfortunately, you'll have to install all this-but it's easy and there's a write up and several YT tutorials about it. One the harness is run and plugged in behind the switches, there's a pigtail with five leads for accessories. All you have to do is just splice onto the pigtail and run the wire to power whatever accessory. Really, you could get the factory fog lights, cut the terminal off, and splice to the lead going to the upfitter switch pigtail. It's not as slick as the fog light switch built into some trucks, but it'll give you the OEM look. Or just get a $30.00 amazon light bar. Or whatever. That's cool you already have the basic setup; now you can run whatever your imagination or circuit fuse protection can handle.

Yeah I don't care for DRLs; makes me think I'm in a funeral procession They look damn good. And seriously, consider the upfitter kit. Looks like they've gone up, but you might find one less-costly. UPFITTER KIT And if you do go that way, be sure you double-check content. If it's selling appreciably less than that, it might not have everything.

No idea, but if anyone does, possibly 404Parts.

I never noticed, so I just went outside. Remote start turns on clearance lights and running lights. Press brake and those lights go out. It's ~6:00 PM CDT right now, so there's a lot of light. But no DRL. Then I thought maybe it needs to be in Drive, so I put in in D and engaged emergency brake; DRL illuminated. So yeah the Lasfit Pro H11 function in my truck ('23 LT) just fine. And now I know it has to be in Drive before they turn on. I leave for work ~5:00 AM and since headlamps are on Auto, they of course illuminate when remotely started. Be forewarned some of those caps are an SOB to get on, but like mentioned in Over The Hill Adventures YT video on Lasfit Pros, they will fit