Core-Lokt

Driving styles aside, that's about the economy I get on my '23. Hand calculations are pretty consistently 1 MPG less. Nice-looking truck!

IDK what the radio/bus system is like in the 1/2 tons; do all of them have the wide screen? Assuming everything is the same from LD to HD 2023 models then yes, you need the Intellihaul module that AFAIK only is in a kit with wireless rear camera setup and side mirror cameras. You have to have IOS-code radio (which on HD is only with 8" screen; think it's IOR with smaller screen, and IOT with factory navigation). There is a QR code on the driver door opening you can scan to find out what radio you have. Again, assuming all things equal, one can get a larger bezel, screen, and a programmed radio module. But spitballing price on self-install, that might equal the cost of the Intellihaul kit itself-and just gets worse with paid install.

The Z-71 skid plate is flimsy. I would look for something aftermarket. That corrugated plastic section in front that bolts to the skid plate is trash. Look for a post by Jettech1 about Lasfit Pro LED headlights. Mine have had zero problems and are super bright. Fog lights..IDK if they can be simply added. There may be wiring provision and certainly would need a new switch, but I think that's al running through the BCM and would need programming. Probably better to add aftermarket ones. A GM auxiliary switch kit is ~$175, relatively easy to install (particularly if you have jump seat instead of full console). That way, it's stock-appearance, no butchered wiring, and will never hurt resale drilling through a panel. Best to just browse this subforum and click whatever is relevant to your interests bc there's a lot of ideas here.

Probably too early to get part numbers for the panel and switch. Short of someone in the business coming up with the upfitter switch/panel information, your dealer's parts department is likely the best source right now. Clearance lights..I've yet to see a '24, but guessing since it's the same cab, the same lights as pre-refresh are used? LIGHT SET on ebay; just need the square punch.

The upfitter switches have a pigtail for a brake controller, IIRC. So if you were considering adding them (and the worst part of that install is removing/replacing interior panels), you can do both at the same time. Otherwise, here's a video CURT CONTROLLER 2022 SILVERADO HD

yay I feel officially a part of here since the bot replied Anyway, it went away after a couple of days. CarPlay was black-screened yesterday for a couple of run cycles.

I had to resize this, but you'll get the idea. Not had any problems since screen was replaced until today. I went to a car wash and ran a few errands this morning; everything was fine. I get home and around an hour later, I need to jump-start my mower and this flashing hexagon appears on the screen. It's only active when the back-up camera is on. Doesn't do anything with hitch camera or bed view. Doesn't appear when radio is on like the dead pixel line. Is it water in the camera? It was standard manual-type wash with wand. Thanks in advance. IMG_0341(1).mp4

The bed lights should've come with either the first upgrade package (LTZ Plus/Texas Edition), second (LTZ Convenience Package 1) or free-flow. Sounds like the dealer dropped the ball if your other truck had them and you wanted the new one built the same.

What is your truck trim level? Looks like even LT/LTZ get LED bed lights only with the respective for each trim packages like Texas Edition or additional convenience packages. Looks like WT had them as a free-flow option. Is it an option that "should have" been ordered? If you personally ordered it and requested them, then Yes. Otherwise, it's not forced that I can tell unless the WT free-flow option is picked or LT/LTZ equipped as mentioned above included with certain packages. In short, it's a nice thing to have but not a mistake. BUILD AND PRICE 2023 3500HD Edit: Looks like it was also a free-flow option on LT/LTZ.

Big day yesterday-and a little into today. I did a High Country cluster/upfitter switches, and wireless charging console to replacement. There's tutorials here for upfitter switches and at YT. For a video on cluster swap, I recommend this VIDEO that explains the process and what extras it can get you. For the console top swap, I recommend this Blue Garage tutorial mainly because I only found one other and that dude cut it super short, omitting many important details. Also Blue Garage's video is the only one I know of that touches on installing the cooling duct for the charger. And that is one heck of a deal to get that in, so well worth watching. If you're planning on doing at least two of these mods, it's best to do them at the same time since so many of the dash panels needing removed are common to all three mods. Probably will do the radio module reprogram at some point so the speed limit will show on the cluster and I can get HD terrestrial radio.

nvm; I figured it out. There's a small (and stiff) wedge-shaped locking tab at the bottom. You can't really see it unless you orient the center stack just right.

I got a wireless charger console top from 404parts. The wireless charger gets power by unplugging the harness from the port, then plugging in a male-female adapter back into the vehicle harness. I'm having difficulty separating the harness from the port. I can pull back the red tab, but it's oriented where I can't see the likely tab to depress. Thanks in advance.

Appointment today. No stated diagnosis, but I think everyone can agree on 64B's call of dead pixels. Nobody would either preemptively order a screen or get me to the tech/service manager. Worst of all, the "tech" assigned to look at it told me he looked at another truck to "make sure that wasn't how they all were". Anyway, a screen is supposed to be there 1/30. I go back 2/3 fml. Unless something doesn't work out, I'll consider this done on updating.

PM sent, with my thanks.

I went to the dealership today. The appointment made 15 days ago was for nothing because it seems only one tech can deal with it, and he had some classes to take with an unknown ETA today. Stuff happens, but they know who's capable of doing certain work, and should know of scheduled absences like classes. That was a 100-mile bust of a round trip. So the appointment is for next week (the line is still there). On the chance a new screen would be needed, I asked if one was there (foreseeing a third trip), to which they said the would have to order it. So a warranty issue could become costly for me. For lulz I asked about the substitute truck that was supposed to have been in at Thanksgiving to the one I ordered in June (theoretically scheduled build 1/23/23). That truck is still in Canada. Guess it was for the best I got the one I did. I'll keep this updated for those interested.

I was in the same boat; I ordered a truck in June, no allocation available until October. Meanwhile in October, there was an LTZ in Oshawa awaiting transit and was asked if I wanted it. I said Yes, and arrival was supposed to be ~Thanksgiving. Far as I know, it's still up there "in transit" lol. Reading between the lines, I am guessing Oshawa plant is to be refitted for 2024s first, so GM probably wanted a stockpile of stuff to sell while the transition took place, with Flint building 2023s after a certain point. So I took a truck that was built in Flint well after my allocation occurred. Right or wrong, my guess is we had bad timing relative to GMs mid-cycle refresh. On a somewhat related note, I was tired of waiting for something I didn't know would come in or be built. The dealer had a ultra-loaded 2022 2500 LTZ Duramax I offered $75,000 for (list $80,000 after $1,000 rebate), and they refused, saying they couldn't discount that much. Yesterday I get an e-mail of sales and that very truck is now $74,900 just two weeks after my offer . So I think prices may be starting to intersect with lower demand.

I came across this and am posting in case anyone might be interested. Not many left per Amazon, and you never know if something gets restocked. It's the same size emblem as on MultiFlex tailgates and looks like it's need a small hole drilled in the skin to feed a cylindrical connector. I got one since I got the Kicker tailgate audio, and that itself requires some holes drilled. That will eventually be done, but first will be interior stuff and second replacement bumpers. Anyway, it uses a four-wire plug for power and would be a pretty easy and relatively inexpensive mod.

looks great! Really, these are nice for the price.

The screen cover is still on as-shipped. Actually, stuff like airbag tag and plastic over interior handles is still on. It's been non-stop holiday cycle and 4X10 work without NY-observed Monday off, and other things to distract me. Additionally, there's been no mods whatsoever relatable. The only things electrical I've changed are LED headlights and switchback turn signals.

Did it yesterday. For me, it was a 15-minute job, mainly because my truck was clean and new.

Still have the line. I have a service appointment on the 20th, and if I can, I'll find out what the diagnosis is in case anyone else has this happen.

It started this morning and is still doing it as of this evening. Anybody ever had this happen?

I did some fairly involved stuff on a Ram truck site and was happy to make project threads with lots of pictures. I even had people with unrelated vehicles join just to say "hey, I was trying to figure this out and a search brought me here, so Thanks". It is a good feeling to learn and pass on the knowledge. Here, I'm relying upon others for help since this is my first Chevrolet. And I'm appreciative of all of you.

Next was a Roadmaster sway bar. Parts looks largely the same as Hellwig, but the price is around half. It's solid steel bar stock, and heavy. Since my truck is so new, it hasn't been used yet for cargo or trailering, but I can tell some difference when going over a dip.

Today I did a couple of things; first, Suspension Maxx stabilizer. Plenty of how-to videos about this. Can't tell a difference, but the truck has ~600 miles so everything is tight.