Srode1

i have the PS motor, let me know if you decide you need it - like I said I would make sure things move smoothly first or you will burn up any new motor you put on it and yours may still be fine.

I should, let me look. Before replacing your motor though I would make sure the pivot points aren't getting stuck at the running board pivots as that will just burn up a replacement motor. Before I put mine on I took them apart and freed them up with solvent then antiseize. Your motor might be fine if it's just trying to move frozen pivot points. I'll look to see where I put the motor though and let you know tomorrow.

New pixel 10 has magnets like some of the iPhones to align the phone / charger for better charging. Does anyone know if these magnets will damage the center console charger in our trucks? I know you aren't supposed to leave keys or change on them is why I ask.

I have some parts left over that are in usable condition from a set of running boards I built combining 2 sets i purchased. Parts include end caps, endcap with switch, idler arm with wiring harness both sides, and PS motor and arm, DS motor arm and gearbox needs a new motor, controller box that goes on the DS assembly. Let me know what you are interested in and we can work out a price. I'm in the Cincinnati area for local pick up or parts can be shipped if you want to pick up the tab for that.

unplug the loom that runs to the rear at the motor, and check for continuity across the 2 plug pins when someone pushes in the button. If you don't have continuity you can remove the endcap with the switch in it with a phillips taking out 3 screws, unplug the cap from the inner harness and check for corrosion there - I would guess that's the problem. If you have continuity at the pins the problem obviously is not the switch.

I just got done installing mine using a set that had a bad motor on the DS replacing the motor with one from a beat up set that had a good motor. They will not move unless you loosent the two 6mm allen socket head bolts s that hold the arm to the motor/gearbacx shaft then the arm will rotate on the shaft and you can move them in or out as you like to install them.

I see a bunch of 19-24 GM 1500's for sale lately, I think the word is getting out and people are dumping them moving on to something else before the power train problems bite them. Shame, because these are really nice trucks otherwise.

My understanding is there is a stainless bushing at the pivot points on the boards. If they start sticking or running slow, disassembling the arms at that point and cleaning / lube with anti-seize is sometimes the cure. If the joint is corroded beyond repair replacing the arm is the next step. This is on the 15-18 design, not the newer trucks.

Thanks, I found some information based on that. I haven't seen anything on a service interval though, only comments to replace that and the pressure sender when the oil pressure drops which doesn't sound right. Looks like a metal screen, so is it just for aeration reduction or is acting like a filter / getting clogged too?

i hadn't heard about the screen being servicable and haven't seen the TSB . Can someone explain the screen and service and post a link to the TSB?

I thought the recall was switching the 19-24 6.2s to 0w40 not 5W30, am I wrong? I was thinking of switching to 0W40 myself next change.

So the fix if DTC 0016 isn't set, is replace the oil with 0w40 oil. I wonder if this should also be done on the previous generation of 6.2 too? On the other hand, GM explanation is make the oil consistent with LT1 and LT4s in Camaros and corvettes since it's a high performance engine. Well, the power output is the same for the previous generation 6.2 engines so why aren't those seeing the same problem? What am I missing here? Are the build tolerances different? And on edit - what's this going to do to the EPA fuel economy certification? My understanding is 0w20 was used to reduce drag and improve gas mileage.

Unfortunately another data point supporting my choice to stay away from the 10 speed trucks. Of course Ford is using the same transmission (or a varient) and is having similar valve body problems from what I have read. Can't say if they are having problems with parts shortage though.

Curious, why the interest in learning more - is this not supposed to happen on an '18? My comment wasn't a concern just and observation.

My '18 does that, I wondered what the noise was when opening the door. My '15 did not do that - both 6.2 engines.