mtbadbob

Power boards do require more maintenence, mainly keeping the hinge mechanism's cleared. I live in Montana, and have had relatively good luck with mine, once the program got updated. That being said, they will be more tempermental & require more attention in snowy/icey areas.

Keep digging, they should be blue/grey, & green/black

I think that may help. The sensor could be telling them to retract because of an obstruction also, especially if they're trying to move. The could just be full of crap inside. Did you try pushing down on them manually when you open the door??

Did you make sure you have voltage at the running boards? Check fuses if not, of course. If you have power at the boards, I'd say check the sensors next, and make sure the hinges aren't seized. I've seen that on a '14 Escalade. I'd lube the hell out of them with some PB Blaster. Then open the door and apply manual pressure down or up, whatever way they need to go, to see if you can get them to move.

I used my 12v stab tester to pierce from the inside of the cab. Also, I'm in construction, so a piece of suspended ceiling support wire works great for a fish wire.

No, plenty of room in those chases. The passenger side is the best route anyway for the refreshed trucks.

You're spot-on! I actually pierced from inside the cab out with an awl, then fed my fish wire that way as it was easier to hit the center of the grommet than from the outside. I actually found it was easier on my '24 than it was on my '22 with all the BCM's & harnesses on the drivers side.

Is it the GM 19417164 sub? If so, it'll have all the wiring needed. You do need to feed power through the firewall grommet & to the power block near the battery. I suppose you could possible tap power off the Bose amp, but Kicker wants that sub on it's own circuit/fuse. Several of us have just been taping into the factory sub feed wires, instead of the rt channel as the instructions say. I guess you could just tap right out of the amp, but I tapped at the front passenger sill where the sub wires branch off, that way I can just remove the sill cover and access my taps/connections right there if I ever need to.

Yes, it is for the Denali with Bose. Just tell the shop to tap into sub feed wires instead of the rt front channel speaker feeds as the instructions suggest.

My '24 front bracket flops around like a fish! I think they have kindergartners installing them!

I've had 4 different trucks with the LED cab lights & have never had a leak, although I've never taken out my headliners to see if there was any "seepage". I've also NEVER had a failed tailgate switch neither, so there you go!

You got jipt! Every High Country & AT4 HD I've owned has came with the Rancho's. I'm with Epsilon Plus, not really sure they're any better than stock Delco's...

I've installed a similar set from Ebay on my '24 & they work fine. You can get them for under $30 with the harness.

I've ordered them on the last 3 trucks. I think they're a great addition, especially for only $55! I like just driving with my park lights in the early evening light, and not having the headlights blaring when they're not needed.

They come with the sub, I believe they're 16-20. I've used both the red & blue taps. The blue isn't as obtrusive to the wires as the reds. The majority of opinions is that it'll be fine, but don't expect absolute perfection. I've owned upper end car audio for 40+ years, fwiw...