mtbadbob

Power boards do require more maintenence, mainly keeping the hinge mechanism's cleared. I live in Montana, and have had relatively good luck with mine, once the program got updated. That being said, they will be more tempermental & require more attention in snowy/icey areas.

Keep digging, they should be blue/grey, & green/black

I think that may help. The sensor could be telling them to retract because of an obstruction also, especially if they're trying to move. The could just be full of crap inside. Did you try pushing down on them manually when you open the door??

Did you make sure you have voltage at the running boards? Check fuses if not, of course. If you have power at the boards, I'd say check the sensors next, and make sure the hinges aren't seized. I've seen that on a '14 Escalade. I'd lube the hell out of them with some PB Blaster. Then open the door and apply manual pressure down or up, whatever way they need to go, to see if you can get them to move.

I used my 12v stab tester to pierce from the inside of the cab. Also, I'm in construction, so a piece of suspended ceiling support wire works great for a fish wire.

No, plenty of room in those chases. The passenger side is the best route anyway for the refreshed trucks.

You're spot-on! I actually pierced from inside the cab out with an awl, then fed my fish wire that way as it was easier to hit the center of the grommet than from the outside. I actually found it was easier on my '24 than it was on my '22 with all the BCM's & harnesses on the drivers side.

Is it the GM 19417164 sub? If so, it'll have all the wiring needed. You do need to feed power through the firewall grommet & to the power block near the battery. I suppose you could possible tap power off the Bose amp, but Kicker wants that sub on it's own circuit/fuse. Several of us have just been taping into the factory sub feed wires, instead of the rt channel as the instructions say. I guess you could just tap right out of the amp, but I tapped at the front passenger sill where the sub wires branch off, that way I can just remove the sill cover and access my taps/connections right there if I ever need to.

Yes, it is for the Denali with Bose. Just tell the shop to tap into sub feed wires instead of the rt front channel speaker feeds as the instructions suggest.

My '24 front bracket flops around like a fish! I think they have kindergartners installing them!

I've had 4 different trucks with the LED cab lights & have never had a leak, although I've never taken out my headliners to see if there was any "seepage". I've also NEVER had a failed tailgate switch neither, so there you go!

You got jipt! Every High Country & AT4 HD I've owned has came with the Rancho's. I'm with Epsilon Plus, not really sure they're any better than stock Delco's...

I've installed a similar set from Ebay on my '24 & they work fine. You can get them for under $30 with the harness.

I've ordered them on the last 3 trucks. I think they're a great addition, especially for only $55! I like just driving with my park lights in the early evening light, and not having the headlights blaring when they're not needed.

They come with the sub, I believe they're 16-20. I've used both the red & blue taps. The blue isn't as obtrusive to the wires as the reds. The majority of opinions is that it'll be fine, but don't expect absolute perfection. I've owned upper end car audio for 40+ years, fwiw...

Like we've said, you'll be able to reduce the bass output with the factory head unit EQ if it's too much.

As I stated, my '15 GM Kicker sub for the Bose DID NOT have the ability to control the bass with a seperate knob, so the new subs without the controller will work and still can be controlled by the factory head unit's EQ. They won't be useless, just not as tuneable. Some people will still enjoy the sound regardless, others won't like the bass as much, but you're still getting a 200w sub in either case.

The first 3 dipswitches are just output levels, so amp should power on regardless. Derek99 did say that dipswitch 4 was remote power, so make sure that is on.

I don't have that issue, although I do have the sub controller. EVERYONE is going to have a different opinion on how much is too much, what is muddled, & what is clear. I had the 200w Kicker sub in my '15 with no controller & it was fine, you just have to adjust factorey EQ to dial in the sound. Almost every song varies anyhow. Tjeli claims he actually tested the different taps & found the factory sub taps w/reverse phase to sound the best. I would think that'd stand true without a controller also. You can contemplate back & forth until the cows come home, Kicker does state that if you don't hook it up per instructions, you'll void your warranty. I bought mine used and wasn't worried about tapping the sub wires, it just made far more sense to me to do it that way & Tjeli confirmed it with his testing. One member said he ran all of his dipswitches on, and another said it was too much for him. I'm going to experimentwith mine & make my own judgement.

I believe he is talking about the sill plate cover. I tapped into mine right at the passenger front seat so I can access them just by removing the side seat track cover.

I would think that tapping into the factory sub wires is a better bet than the right or left side speaker wires regardless of what amp you have. Factory sub colors are: green/black & blue/gray, They are visibly larger than most all others in the harness, they look like 16 gauge.

I recently had my passenger side lights stop working, although the running board still worked correctly. I found that the plug in to the retracting motor wasn't snapped in tight from the factory as I only have 2,300 miles. I plugged it in tightly, then the lights worked but board acted dead. After about a half hour of messing around, I finally disconnected the negative battery post as I figured the BCM probably needed to be reset. I then took it for about a 4 mile drive and when I returned home, everything works as they should. I think a lot of these gremlins are related to the BCM's, as several people are having the tailgate buttons acting up, some have even had the switch replaced 3 times while others haven't had a single issue.

Kicker factory settings are with switch 1-ON, so someone messed with yours already.

To identify the Kicker subs with the control port, the amps do NOT have the harness pigtail coming out of the amp. They have the white female harness plug on them, along with square edges on the amp.

I'm going to switch mine, as I have it Kicker green to Bose blue.