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Check the securing nuts on the power distribution cap. I saw a video a while back where on of the power line terminals was loose causing this issue. Another thinking is to check you grounds. A couple of videos on YouTube showing them. Check the simple things first. https://youtu.be/LPiBKMJ5Lb8?feature=shared

Have you looked at your brake vacuum pump? On the 2017 Chevy 5.3L, a failing mechanical brake vacuum pump can cause excess oil consumption. The pump relies on engine oil for lubrication and a seal. If internal seals fail, the pump will draw oil directly out of the crankcase and push it into the brake booster or intake, where it is burned.Key Symptoms of a Failing Vacuum Pump. Hard or stiff brake pedal: Loss of vacuum assist makes braking effort significantly harder.Oil in the vacuum line: Disconnecting the vacuum line to the brake booster will reveal wet oil inside the hose.Noisy operation: A clicking, grinding, or loud tapping sound coming from the front/driver's side of the engine.Smoke from the tailpipe: Burning oil as it cycles through the intake.

Go to that link again & scroll the picture. The black on is on the same item. Just make sure it's for your type of door. Crew cab or double door.

On a 2014 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3L engine, Bank 2 is located on the passenger side (right side, when sitting in the truck). Bank 2 contains cylinders 2, 4, 6, and 8, with the catalytic converter/sensors often on that side.

I believe you have to buy the complete part. Another option is to have it wrapped. Chevrolet GM Genuine Parts Rear Driver Side Door Window Belt Reveal Molding | 23227178 | Chevrolet Parts

@z45....yes, I agree with you. However, being a retired tooling engineer that has worked directly with the Tier 1 supplier engineers, I know how they work. If it is an "OE" supplier I will use those parts. But when it comes to fluids and I don't have the option of knowing the specs of a fluid, I default to certifications. There i know it at least meets the minimum standard. I also know how marketing words things to make you think it's OK but no data to back it up. Read the article that New dude linked about multiplieds this is above. It sort of explains my doubts. Not trying to change your mind, just wanting to explain the difference. I just don't want to take that risk at this time in my life

Thanks, that was good article. Many on the Chevy forums say "Valvoline Multi Life Multi-Vehicle" ATF is Dexron VI. I'm not sure that it is actually approved Dexron VI fluid (But recommended for Dexron VI). Two different thinks. (Approved versus Recommended) I'll stick with the Approved/Certified/Licensed Dexron VI ATF.

Your truck is 8-9 years old now with ****** miles. Lots of things can co wrong. If you haven't bled tge brakes moisture can get into the the piston area and corrode it, causing this issue. A pinched or internal collapse of brake line case cause it. No silver bullet. I'd remove caliper & remove piston & check bore & piston for crusty. Also how is the seal on it?

As the title says, what brand Dexron VI are you using in your 6l80e transmission? Are you using AC Delco Dexron VI? FYI, I saw Valvoline Dexron VI at Walmart (blue bottle) for $6.88/qt. So what's the best bang for the buck that you found. I go by the assumption that any ATF that is Dexron VI certified is ok for this 6 speed. BTW mine is a 2017 LTZ 5.3L that has the TCM HP Tuned.

p2138 chevy silverado Code P2138 on a Chevy Silverado indicates a voltage mismatch between the two internal sensors of the accelerator pedal (APP), causing a "Reduced Engine Power" warning and sluggish acceleration. It is often caused by water leaking from the A-pillar/roof causing corrosion in the harness, or a failed pedal assembly. This video explains the causes of the P2138 code and how to fix it: Related video thumbnail 03:47 HVAC Mechanic YouTube• Dec 2, 2023 Common Causes & Fixes Water Intrusion (Most Common): Water leaks from the roof/antenna, damaging the body harness connector. The fix is to fix the leak and clean the harness connector with electrical cleaner and apply dielectric grease. Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor: The pedal assembly itself fails, requiring replacement (GM P/N 25830023 is common). Aftermarket Equipment: Pedal Commanders or other devices hooked into the system can throw this code. Wiring Issues: Inspect the harness for the pedal for frayed or broken wires. Symptoms Check Engine Light illuminates. "Reduced Engine Power" or "Reduced Power" warning on the dash. Weak or sluggish acceleration. Intermittent issues that may go away, then return. Troubleshooting Steps Check for Moisture: Check the passenger/driver side floorboards and under the dash for wetness (suggests a leak, perhaps from a sunroof or roof marker lights). Clean Connector: Inspect the pedal connector for corrosion, clean with electrical cleaner. Clear Codes & Reset: Clear the codes using a scanner. If you don't have one, disconnect the battery, touch the terminals together, and then try a pedal relearn. Replace Pedal: If issues persist, replace the accelerator pedal assembly.

Did it mess up as soon as windshield was replaced? Did they recalibrate it when windshield was replaced.

Can you believe that AI is this quick & accurate about my question? This is crazy technology!

And ChatGPT said this...... Got it—that extra detail actually matters a lot. Short answer first: With a fill-flip thermostat mod, 77°F ambient, and a 2,200 → 5,000 ft climb, seeing ~195°F is completely normal Why your temp hit 195°F You basically created a perfect storm for heat generation: 1. Elevation climb = heavy load Going from 2,200 → 5,000 ft means sustained load The transmission is working harder to maintain speed 2. Torque converter slip (big heat source) On climbs, unless locked, the converter: Slips more Generates a LOT of heat quickly This is the #1 reason temps rise on hills 3. Fill flip mod changes behavior With the thermal bypass “flip”: Fluid is always routed through the cooler BUT: At lower temps, flow can be slightly restricted depending on setup Cooling efficiency depends heavily on airflow So: It helps overall cooling But doesn’t eliminate heat under load 4. Airflow reality Climbing a mountain = often lower speeds Less airflow through the cooler So even with the mod, cooling is reduced right when you need it most What matters most here Your temp did NOT run away past 200+ It likely leveled off around 190–200°F That means: Your cooler system is working Your fluid isn’t overheating No immediate issue Where HP Tuners can improve THIS exact scenario 1. Earlier TCC lockup (biggest gain) Reduce converter slip during climbs This alone can drop temps 10–20°F 2. Increase TCC apply pressure Prevent partial slip under load Helps eliminate heat buildup 3. Adjust downshift behavior Keep engine in a better power band Reduces load on the converter 4. Slightly firmer shifts Less clutch slip = less heat Simple test for next drive Next time you climb: Put it in Tow/Haul mode Forces earlier lockup Watch temp difference If temps drop noticeably: You’ve confirmed converter slip is your main heat source When this WOULD be a concern Watch for this pattern: Temps keep climbing past 210–220°F Doesn’t stabilize Or climbs fast even on flat ground That would point to: Flow restriction Cooler inefficiency Tuning issue Bottom line 195°F in your exact conditions = totally acceptable Your system behaved like it should The climb + converter slip explains everything If you want, I can help you: Dial in exact HP Tuners settings for cooler temps Or confirm your cooler routing after the flip (a lot of people get that slightly wrong) Just tell me

It's amazing what ChatGPT can figure out... HP Tuners can completely reshape how your 6L80E shifts—but it’s not just one setting. You’re basically reprogramming how the transmission applies clutches, pressure, and timing. Here’s a clear breakdown of what it actually does and how it fixes common shift problems What HP Tuners Changes in a 6L80E The 6L80E is a fully electronic clutch-to-clutch transmission, so shift quality is controlled by software, not just hydraulics. � MotorTrend 1. Shift Pressure (Firmness) Controls how hard or soft it shifts Higher pressure = firmer, quicker shifts Lower pressure = softer, smoother shifts This is the #1 fix for: Slipping shifts Lazy or “mushy” gear changes 2. Shift Timing (Speed of the shift) Controlled mainly by Torque Adder / Shift Timing tables Adjusts how fast the clutches apply and release Fixes: Long drawn-out shifts Flare between gears (RPM jump) On newer 6L80s, GM removed “desired shift time” tables and uses torque-based timing instead. � forum.hptuners.com 3. Shift Points (When it shifts) MPH or RPM where each gear change happens Fixes: Early shifting (bogging engine) Late shifting (revving too high) Example: Raise shift points for performance Lower for towing or economy 4. Torque Management (VERY important) Reduces engine torque during shifts to protect clutches Adjusting this: Less torque reduction = harder, faster shifts Too little = can damage transmission Important: Turning it off completely is a bad idea (can cause harsh timing issues and wear) � YouTube 5. TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) Control Controls lockup timing and pressure Fixes: Shudder Surging at steady speed Slip under load Common changes: Increase TCC pressure Adjust apply/release speeds Disable lockup in lower gears (sometimes) 6. Adaptive Learning Reset The transmission “learns” wear over time After tuning: You must reset adapts, or it may shift weird What’s Actually Happening Inside Each shift in a 6L80E is: One clutch turning OFF Another clutch turning ON If timing or pressure is off: Too slow = slip Too fast = harsh bang HP Tuners lets you sync that handoff perfectly Real-World Examples Fixing a sloppy 2–3 shift: Increase shift pressure slightly Reduce shift time (torque adder) Check torque management Fixing a harsh bang shift: Lower pressure a bit Smooth timing (increase shift time slightly) Fixing converter shudder: Increase TCC pressure Adjust lockup speeds Sometimes disable lockup in lower gears Important Reality Check This is where most people mess up: The 6L80E is very sensitive Bad tuning = burnt clutches fast Good tuning = longer life AND better performance Even stock power trucks rely heavily on correct calibration for durability. � MotorTrend Simple Summary HP Tuners fixes your shifting by adjusting: Pressure → how hard it hits Timing → how fast it shifts Shift points → when it shifts Torque management → how controlled it is TCC settings → how the converter behaves If you want, tell me exactly what your truck is doing (flare, bang, delayed shift, shudder, etc.), and I can point you to the exact tables and safe starting values for your 6L80

Here's the back story. 2017 LTZ 5.3 6L80 with 63k miles. I did the pill flip when I bought this truck at 32k miles & added the DOD/AFM delete at the same time. I have done 3 'drain & Fills' on ATF. The transmission has aways run about 140-150 F since I did that. Recently, I had the transmission Tuned via HP Tuner, elimination clutch slip, torque management & deleting the DOD. Last weekend as I was driving up the mountain from 2200 ft to 5000 ft, the transmission temp steadily rose up to 197 F and then cold as I descended back to 2200 ft. So, I'm wondering if the Pill Flip is not working for whatever reason or if the cooling line is restricted. So, I will be removing the transmission thermostat & taking it apart to inspect. While the cooling lines are off, I want to blow some air through the lines & flush out the ATF. Can anyone tell me which one of the lines goes to the cooler? Is this a bad idea, as there won't be any ATF in the lines when I start if back up. Let me know what you guys think

Are you using the window switch on the passenger door or master switch on drivers door?

Passenger Side Plenum Drain Valve GM 22837626

That is very strange. How many miles on ur truck. Any previous work done?

Ambient Temp sensor MC-10123216-9999.pdf

I've run Valvoline P&R 3W30 as well.

I've run Seafoam in oil on several of my cars. '17 silverado 5.3 (with 5W30) & a several bimmers. In my opinion, it's a good way to keep piston rings clean.i have not seen any issues. I've watched videos on YouTube on this subject. Seafoam says you can run it in the oil full time, iirc. Here's a picture of my '05 BMW 3.0L top end after 100k miles using Seafoam.

Boy, sounds like you did what was right. Did you do the pill flip/thermostat delete? & AFM delete?

@109k .....you would have had to change fluid, do a pill flip or other thermostat delete back at 30k & 60k & 90k to help the transmission to live longer. IMO.

I may be wrong but I lost MyLink after my OnStar subscription rand out. I think you have to subscribe to OnStar to get it back. Correct me if I'm wrong

I'll throw my .02 cents in. I have a '17 LTZ with 6l80e. GM programs these transmissions to let the torque converter slip & lock up at lower speeds & in lower gears. My truck would feel like a shutter or miss, due to this programed slip & lock up and to compound this, the AFM (DOD) is another issue. I had my transmission tuned via HP Tuning & it drives like a different truck. The eliminate the slip, the lock-up & DOD. They did a torque matching between engine & transmission (not sure what this does) and changed the shifting points & increased throttle response. I had a Range AFM delete & a throttle commander & the tune eliminated both. As I'm sure some will comment that your TC is toast but I highly recommend a tune. I also change my ATF often via ducking it out the ATF dip stick tube. Much easier than pan drop. Just my opinion!