I don't have mag ride so all i did were some $45 shackles on amazon. As someone else noted that lowered mag shocks. the shocks got stiff as the sensors thought there was a heavy load just due to the lowered position with no trailer. But if you use the kit in the link you're basically lowering the truck and the shocks so the sensors wont notice it is lowered. The air bags will neutralize the additional trailer tongue weight so the rear wont sag horribly and possibly bottom out. With the load supported properly on the springs and bags the shocks can stay in a place where they can do effective progressive damping for a smooth ride. Without a trailer and the bags at min inflation it rides great as well.
Only way to be sure how yours tows is to load it and find out. I did the 1.5" drop shackles only and tow a toy hauler. I Installed airbags and just measured the height before loading the trailer. After trailer was loaded aired up the bags to get back all the sag plus a bit ~60psi. Rides very solid and smooth.
IMO the bulk of the learning should done be in the first few hundred miles. But my gut tells me that there is probably some longer term algorithms in there that can compensate for normal wear. Mine is better now 29k than it was new and after a warranty chuggle fluid change at 24k. Anyone with max tow and engine braking should try disabling it. Does wonders for clunking on deceleration. And after driving every day with it disabled for a few weeks I found that when I forget and it is enabled it is smooth as silk.
During the learning process I highly advise you to be as smooth as possible with the throttle and brakes as you drive around. If you treat the throttle and brakes like on/off switches the computer will learn to shift that way. If you have Max Tow best advise on that is to disengage the engine braking. On mine that completely removed all clunking/downshifting. My guess is though i will use up the brakes quicker.
On another thread someone with similar SPL issue suggested getting the borla mini race muffler and installing it in front of the S-Type muffler. I ordered one and had it installed at a shop and it did indeed take the edge off the sound to acceptable level for me. He claimed the SPL reduced by 6-9db which i would also agree with. for every Every 3 DB dropped SPL (Sound Pressure Level) is cut by 1/2
Pearl2017 replied to kickass audio's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraI have/used a couple of compressors from HF for years. the current one is ~$50 and the motor has ball bearings so they last a long time. I don't think a tank is needed nor really helps bc the larger tires will swallow up a few gallon tank on the first tire. So you may as well not bother carrying it. for the price you could burn out 4 or 5 of them before costing as much as some of the on board systems i have seen cost. IMO all those higher dollar compressors are the same Chinese ones as HF. Additionally I rigged up a 4 valve/hose system with a pressure gauge I connect compressor to and fill all 4 tires at once and the pressure also equalizes between tires.
It is a heavy enough truck already if you have good tires. And unless you're regularly going through unplowed country roads after a blizzard you'll probably just lose +1 mpg for the extra weight you're hauling on clean streets.
I believe the magnaride have sensors that measure the jounce and rebound of the suspension then actively adjust the fluid viscosity within to dampen the movements without being harsh. Air bags do not assist the shocks they assist the springs. As long as airbags physically fit on the truck not sure why they wouldn't be compatible. I googled the model and see an amazon listing. I purchased from SDTrucksprings.
If the shocks aren't the issue and the ride is plush before that helper spring leaf is touching. The applied hitch load may be just enough to lower you onto to the helper springs but not enough to overpower them and so soften the ride. To lift it back to normal ride height and off of the helper springs get a set of air bags. those helper springs are meant to be very strong/stiff For maximum load. What I did was to drop/lower the rear. When not towing truck sits more level and has a plush ride. When trailer is loaded i pump up the bags and lift it back up and support the main springs. then there is more distance between the main leaf springs and the helper spring and still plush ride. you only need to gain an inch or so to be off that helper spring and absorb normal road bumps more softly.
I have not had the magna shocks myself before but don't they just change damping like +-30% or so? I mean there is a limit to how much damping they can apply? So when a heavy weight or trailer is attached they should not turn to stone right? What I would try without the trailer hitched get a couple of guys in the back and bounce it up and down. Does it move significantly and does the shock damping feel right or does it feel abrupt? then attach the trailer minus WDH and do the same. Is the truck adding in a lot of damping with the trailer harness attached or when tow mode enabled? you could always get a gopro and attach it underneath and go record a ride over some bumps. Guess is the shocks are over damping ...all else working properly. I just didn't think those shocks could damp enough to keep that tongue weight from doing the opposite and smoothing out the ride/overpowering the shocks. Is it possible to unplug the power from the shocks so they don't tighten up?
The WDH is not for setting the the ride height or smoothing out the ride. Its job is to virtually shift some weight forward of the rear bumper over the rear axle. Adding too much WDH is dangerous, if you lift off the throttle abruptly and hit the brakes the rear wheels can unload and jackknife more easily. Your answer is to set the WDH correctly and if the suspension sags install some air bags to get ride height back and assist the springs to carry the load. I tried Sumo springs first and didn't like the ride and have the airlift now are way better ride.
Pearl2017 replied to Move Over's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsFor a small cost you can place a valve between the bags so air does not shift between them. Doing so gives you a single fill, equalizes pressure between both bags then isolates them once it is closed again after fill.
For the flexing pedal the long discussed and IMO easiest or best solution is to get a $.29 paint stick from Aco hardware and use it as a shim. As far as starving for fuel and causing the chuggle that is not correct. It doesn't matter how much the pedal bracket flexes the fuel and so AFR the engine receives is completely unrelated to that flexing. The chuggle is the torque converter clutch not operating smoothly/correctly as it is supposed to smoothly slip x% while cruising. Stomping on the gas pedal the TCC is ordered to lock up and stop slipping thus the chuggle stops.
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