I'm sure your data on 0w20 says its great stuff. But 5w30 10w40 and 15w50 also is great stuff no?. 0w20 was created to attain increased fuel economy and It represents the minimum viscosity with a minimum of anti wear additives that will work in a modern engine in good condition. Then you add in additional heat with a higher tstat and go so far as to add variable louvers in front of the radiator to control how much cool air enters the radiator. again to drive up heat and efficiency. your motor is a running symphony till something goes a little wrong. Say you get some oil dilution with a leaky injector or a little extra blow by thru the rings or one of the collapsible DOD lifters doesn't UN-collapse when ordered to do so. then on your way home you get stuck on the I-10 for 2 hours in a traffic jam with the AC on max and the outside air temp is 114 degrees, pavement 140 and your thermostat is 206. Right about then it may strike you. If i had a little cooler thermostat and more stout 10w40 in there with a bit more wear additive the mechanicals under the hood of my mobile crematoria might have a bit more safety margin. Heat is a double edged sword. It can drive up efficiency but it also accelerates breakdown of all things. Simply put Heat accelerates entropy. Entropy being complete chaos which all things move toward. This is the reason light bulbs burn out and cars break down. Keep your heat high and use light oil like it says in the manual...its fine for you but I'll opt out.
Put a crammo or caddy stat in to get it a bit cooler. Also if you look closely at the stat disk there is a small flat spot you can put a small 1/8-3/16 bypass hole. Back in the day putting a small bypass hole was a common practice. IMO the high temp doesn't seem to be problematic day to day. But for long haul the heat bakes the engine bay and all the components there. and with the 0w20 oil there is very little safety margin if you go past change interval or scorch the oil. One of the components not holding up seems to be the vacuum pump.
Towed this rig cross the country and back 5400 miles. its near the max of the 6.2 max tow pkg. Best investment for towing was Bilstein shocks, airbags and Eibach sway bars very solid and stable. Best advice is don't crank up the WDH too much, you don't want too much weight shifting forward when you use the brakes.
at home depot they have "Great Stuff" in several different variants that expand different amount. All you need do is get a water spray bottle and mist the area. It cures with moisture. It is polyurethane and stays somewhat flexible. I have used it to fill door voids for sound deadening and many other things. about $3.50 a can. It is very sticky when applied and cleans up with acetone.
I'm from the heavier oil crowd and also use M1. IMO Unless your living in the arctic circle 0w20 to me makes no sense. At least a 5w30 to support the spinning parts loads oil pressure is your friend. I'm not an oil expert but have read the lighter oils also can be creating more PCV gunk going into the intake and coking the valves. Agree or disagree, To me a catch can is just something positive I can do to keep the situation from occurring on my engine.
I went from stock 275/55 R20 @ 655 revs per mile to Michelin defender 285/65 R20 @ 602 revs per mile. So 655/602=1.088 or 8.8% larger and each tire is 15 lbs heavier. On the stock tires after 25K miles with no issue. On the new tires i got the chuggle within 5k miles. After dealer flush fix another 2k mile i could feel the chuggle happening again sporadically. I needed to go on a business trip so decided to tune the speedo on the way. After tuning the speedo was dead on with GPS and chuggles completely went away and been smooth ever since ~8k miles.
...Ill just add one thing to the AFM disable statement ...if you've put larger diameter tires on and have not re-calibrated for that it can contribute to trans problems. This is not just about correcting the speedometer, the Gen v torque management system calculates many variables to operate smoothly. if you don't program for larger tires its calculations become less correct and IMO some chunkiness results. I experienced this first hand and corrected for it and issues have not returned.
on my LTX the 4600's work just fine with oversized Michelin defender 285/65/20's give some float back to a 20". Yes the shocks are firmer the difference is when you get on washboard bumps. the floatie shocks will unhook and truck can get dangerous loose. The 4600's dampen better so stay in control better. The extra damping also helps keep bigger/heavier tires connected to the ground and in control.
Borla was kind enough to give ma a free S Type installed and they videoed it for their sound comparison clips. It did not really V4 drone too bad but it was audible. My solution was to turn off the V4 mode and I don't miss it at all. IMO V4 adds to the trans's confusion of mode or gear to be in. Be advised If you tow a large trailer more than short trips it can be a bit too much sound. I toned it down adding the 3" pipe short muffler in front of the main muffler as someone previously posted here. Perfect now even trailering. PS, if you decide to do borla and want a sway bar down the road you're gonna need to get the duels out the back option. The side exit pipes will interfere with the sway bar install.
Anyone thinking of buying any new vehicle should always max out the extended warranty. Especially if you don't fix things yourself. As far as injectors I had 2 go out and replaced under warranty. the tech in new vehicles does cost a lot but component issues are in every manufacturers lineup. Nothing has changed except the knife edge the new tech is balanced on.I'm sure you all remember the plugged up smog motors that burned up and warped heads at ~71k right. ...The SUX2000 comes to mind ;-)
I had Michelin defender tires put on 13 months ago at Costco. They put nitrogen and even put them at 45PSI for me cause i haul trailer. In over a year I have not had to and any pressure. First time in my life getting nitrogen and pressures are stable.
2017 6.2 max tow, I was getting so-so hwy mileage ~20 since getting the truck. A few months back truck started conking out in the mornings then the cruise control quit working. The dealer tested the Injectors and found 2 were out of spec and replaced them, I think they were leaky. I got the truck back and mileage increased by around 2 mpg ever since. If I'm drafting other cars its Around 23-24 with V4 disabled and 21-22 on CC pushing air myself. And that is with a bigger heavier 285-65-20 Mich Defender tire. Get a GPS and compare it to the speedometer at 60-80. Then you can calculate a correction for tire size. As soon as you change tires with another the circumference is different and the speedo and MPG calculation will be off. Bigger tires will lower the apparent MPG.
I eliminated a rattle from the control panel above the rear view mirror. beneath the plastic cover the switches just snap in and one of them was clattering around. Popped out the switch and put some felt tape to snug it up and noise is gone. Have passenger hold a paper towel tube up to their ear while it is rattling to help locate the source. GL
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