Jump to content

rmart

Member
  • Content Count

    145
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

18 Good

About rmart

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Rich
  • Location
    Chicago
  • Drives
    2014 Sierra 1500 CC Std bed, 4x4, SLT

Recent Profile Visitors

3,578 profile views
  1. I didn't think of the wheel weight, I should weigh them just to see what it is. They are factory rims which are already quite substantial but I know the tires are much bigger and heavier than the stock rubber bands it came with. What is involved in a top end cleaning? I don't know if it's really bad or not, I turned off AFM early on in my ownership and I understand it's the V4-V8 thing that contributes more to gunk buildup than anything else. I still think there's something else though. The delay in responsiveness is not just sluggishness, it's not sluggish, just not as
  2. 2014 Sierra SLT, CC, std. bed, 4x4 with the 6.2, 6-speed, 3.71 diff, and 34" tires The engine is supposed to have 420hp and 460ft/lbs of torque but I just don't feel it. I have the Diablew tune with TM turned off and I know the upsized tires will change the final gear ratio a bit but it just seems to me that I should feel much more of a kick in the pants when I hit the gas. There's at least a 1-2 second delay when flooring it and while the truck runs out strong it just doesn't have the responsiveness or the kick my old 2000 Silverado with the 5.3 had. Am I the onl
  3. I have a rattle on my '14 every time the rear wheels go over a bumpy surface (parking lot, street, with potholes or overfilled potholes, etc.). It doesn't sound like a squeak or a thunk, it's more like a rattle like a heatshield or something loose but I've been under the truck several times with a rubber mallet banging away and I can't find it. I'm kinda eyeballing the e-brake cable that runs along the frame and I'm going to wrap that with a towel just to see but it's annoying.
  4. I get what you're saying. Problem is I'm not confident that the steel would last long enough. I figure I need something at least a 1/4" thick and then coat it with truck bed liner or something to protect against rust and the corrosion that would be caused by steel against aluminum. I was told there are adapters out there that would do what I need but I haven't found one yet.
  5. That's the one, thanks. I was hoping someone came up with a method to wire that sensor to a toggle. I may have to go to a junkyard and grab a sensor and plug and see I can build a plugin that would allow for a switch. Somebody said something about four wires but it looks like there might be as many as eight.
  6. Do you have a link to that thread? I seem to recall seeing something but can't find it now.
  7. Related question. I have 285/65/20s on my truck and have just replaced them after 50k. (BFG AT KO2s). I told the tire tech to take the best old tire and mount it on an aftermarket 20" wheel I bought for the purpose and sling it under the truck. The tire will fit but the problem is the hole for the hubcap is too big for the keeper on the winch. The cross piece on the end of the cable is too small for the hole. Anyone aware of any adapters that can accommodate that problem?
  8. Just a follow-up and closure. I wasn't satisfied with the response 'sucks to be you' (paraphrased by my bias) and called the support line again asking for an address to send a nasty-gram to. Of course there's no address or person to send one to but they did offer to up-level me to a supervisor who listened to my grievance and said he would assign my case to a higher level agent. A couple days later the agent called me back, listened to my tale of woe and said he'd see what he could do. About a week later I get a call from my dealer letting me know that GM had offered $750 in a
  9. Any suggestions on who to send the letter to? I know there's an avenue on their website but I doubt the effectiveness of using that approach.
  10. The fix was the cheap part ($200), the rest was the labor involved in locating the leak and confirming that was the only leaking area. I went to the dealer because I expected the warranty to cover the issue. I could've gone directly to a window/body shop but I had no reason to believe the water was coming in the window(s) because the only wet area was the drivers side floorboards. The dealer started stripping out the interior because they could find no signs of leaking from the roof, firewall, or floor at the driver's side footwell. That's when they discovered the carpet beneath my weathertech
  11. Follow-up. The dealer had to strip out most of the interior and isolated the leak to the lower corner, driver's side of the rear window. Apparently the seal went bad. As this is not a maintenance or wear-and-tear item and there's no abuse or damage to the truck I can only believe that it's a manufacturer defect. Of course, GMC says it's out of warranty, not their problem, the warranty company says not covered, not their problem either, and the dealership isn't at fault, they have to pay their techs to find and fix the problem. I don't fault the dealership at all but I do fault GMC for not doin
  12. When I bought the warranty I told them I wanted a warranty that would extend the factory warranty. They assured me this would do that. Well, that's what I get for not spending the time of going over it line by line with them. They don't tell you the exclusions in the paperwork. You have to go online to find them.
  13. Yeah, they do I guess. And I did. What else was I going to do. After 6 hours they were already at $700 and they hadn't even pinpointed the leak yet. They knew about where it was coming in but still had to see if it was just the window seal or if it was a body seal as well. At any rate, if I just had them put it back together I'd be out over $1,000 and no fix. Then I'd have to take it to another shop and do it all over again. That would be a kick in the nuts if it was just the 3rd brake light although they were fairly certain it was coming in the lower corner of the rear window o
  14. Here is the list of exclusions to my Ally MajorGuard extended warranty: Batteries Battery covers Body parts, panels and rails Bright metal Bumpers Carpet and upholstery Chassis frame Convertible and vinyl tops Correction of air and water leaks Cross members Electric/hybrid vehicle charging units and charge cords, or solar panels Exhaust component and catalytic converter Glass Hinges Lamp assemblies and capsules Lenses Light bulbs
  15. I have a 2014 Sierra SLT with the defroster rear window. For the last month I've been taking on water after driving in water/rain. I thought maybe it was a door seal, gasket, something simple but i couldn't figure out where the leak is coming from. I took the truck to the dealer today and they couldn't find it either until they stripped out the interior and ran it through the carwash... They say the water is pouring in from the rear window, lower corner, driver's side. They have to remove my cap, remove the window, check out the body seams to see if they're the problem or
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.