I've built a tahoe online at Chevy and cannot see where they call out a locking differential or G80. I see the GU6 3.42 gear code and Z71 pacakge, but nothing for the G80. So the question is, if I find a '19 Tahoe with the 4WD, Z71 3.42 gears, does that include a G80? I would think so for pete sake.
Took it out for a spin this afternoon... back to dragging. Replaced the Caliper with a NAPA unit. Drove it for 45 minutes, fixed. Worked my way to the more expensive part I guess... At my next oil change I'll swap the pads out to GM OEM and update the slide pin boots and rattle clips on the passenger side so my OCD is satisfied.
Update on this. the LR brake started dragging again this week. Got it apart this weekend. Here is what I found and learned. 1- The purple ceramic brake grease turned to hard powder inside the slide boots. Not sure why? Threw this stuff in the garbage and will never use again. I picked up some Pure Silicone CRC Brand grease at Autozone ($15/tube!!) and it appears to be much better grease. up to 3,000 degrees F. More in line with what the factory grease looked like. 2- I should have replaced the rubber slide pin boots when I did the brake job a few months ago. They were not torn, but while cleaning and re-greasing I ripped one. Went to Napa and picked up a hardware kit with anti rattle pad clips and boots. $9 for both side. Best kit ever!!!!! 3- As included with the above hardware kit, I used the Napa pad clips. They have a rubbery type coating to them!!!! The Akebono clips were just plain metal. These clips should help combat squeaks and not attract dirt by using grease. SO happy with these Napa clips!! 4-The Akebono extreme pads I have are going to be replaced at my next oil change. I noticed that the squeak shim that snap on the back of the pad rubs and make contact with the caliper bracket. It's the shim arms in a few spots that go over the pad edge that are making the contact. I can't recall, but I think the factory pads had a shim but it did not have little arms at the top/bottom of the pad. It was glued/attached directly to the pad, which would not make any contact with the caliper bracket. Going with Raybestos Ceramics like I did on the rear or a GM/ACDelco Factory pad. I'll verify the pads get do not have shims that "clip over" the pad. 5- I replaced the brake hose with an ACDelco unit. $15 on Amazon. I was right there, cheap insurance to help correct the dragging brake issue. All in all, I think we had a few things that contributed to this issue. I DO NOT RECOMMEND the Akebono Extreme pads for our trucks.
So the new 10 spd has no dipstick? Well then they don't get my money. That simple. I drove my wife's '15 Enclave this morning with 56k on it and it's in mint condition, Love the seats and suspension, but the thing needs quite a bit of PM to keep it mint. We live in a new part of town and for the past 4yrs the main roadway she uses was utter Shizi. Manhole rings sticking up. Road plates all over. I don't know how the county didn't shut them down, and I'm a contractor... Massive road project and the road just beats the living crap out of your suspension. I even contribute that road work to my truck's early ball joint failure and my 335i's rear shock failure. Enclave needs: 1-Needs set of 19" Tires. 2-I noticed the brake pedal was pretty low. Probably needs a brake job or the master cylinder is going out. Brakes feel great, but the pedal feels low. 3-I know the power steering fluid has never been flushed out yet. Easy enough job, I've done this hundreds of times on various cars. 4-It pulls to the right even after an alignment the dealer did. I need to torque all the suspension control arms and check TRE's/Ball joints. 5-Front control arm bushings appears to need replacing in about one more year. (appears to be a short lived part for this platform). 6-Pretty good door ding that needs painted. 7-RR bumper corner needs painted. Again, a construction vehicle's trailer tires with no fenders rubbed it as they cut around her near our house. (Did I mentions we live in a new part of town?) OR trade it in on something new. The Yukon/Tahoe's do not appear to have the factory discounts the K2XX trucks have at the moment or it would make this decision easier. If either my wife or I liked the new Enclave as much as we like the one we have, we' just go get another Enclave in March during their march madness event like when I bought our '15. The new enclave ruined it for us and a lot of other mid-30's couples with kids in our area. We're friends with a couple that hunted down a new left over when the new ones came out. Now the enclave looks like a wanna-be Acura MDX, but for the folks that live in the burbs. Interior has zero logical layout or use. Anyway.... back at the farm.
Well thanks for all the input everyone. Makes sense now. 1- I am not buying anything with the 8spd. They can keep it. The 5.3L with the 6spd is the more "sure bet" combo. I actually really like my 6spd. My only complaint is in heavy city traffic trying to drive and keep up with some of the buzz boxes, it can feel like the transmission is on drugs the shifts take so long. but 98% of the time I really like it. I also noticed that it really like fresh fluid. I really don't want to gamble on the 10spd this early, or have to buy the 6.2L/Denali.
Long term update. I'm at 93k and still running this trans filter setup. Not one leak. I was doing 1yr/20k intervals on the filter but this past year have been lighter on mileage and busy.... was supposed to change at Christmas break, but didn't. So I'm about 14 months and 20k on the current filter. Looking to do a full trans service at my next LOF of around 97k. Trans pan filter, spin-on filter and fluid. Love this setup and would do it again. The 1269 filter is much smaller than the cheap "flush" filter I started with which was a full-size FL1A or whatever oil filter. Thing was the size of a house. The 1269 is tucked nicely up in the rails.
Long term update. I'm at 93k now. We did a Christmas vacation from FL to TN and took my truck. 75mph+ it has a slight rear-end vibration. Below that it's smooth. Comparing my truck now with the balanced shaft and Yukon axles is night and day. Worth the money IMO. and I still think some of the vibration I have is due to the high amount of R&P Backlash. I was going to re-shim it and tighten it up, but Randy's Ring & Pinion talked me out of it as they said it would burn my gear us. My gears are broken in, unless I replace the gear set, I can't fix the BL. I may swap out the 75/90 gear oil to a 75/140 oil to see if that helps. What I am sure of is the vibration is worse when it's hot and sunny outside. But my RR axle is leak free to date!!! YAY, I fixed it. And I know I have good quality axles and my vibration is very livable and only at speeds that get me speeding tickets. So for me, 60% of my vacation ride was through GA. And you're not doing 80 MPH down I-75 in GA like you do in FL.... So we cruised around 74mph. Truck did only about 1mpg worse compare to when we took my wife's Enclave. Not bad. I've been toying with the idea of doing an aftermarket driveshaft of sorts. maybe a 2 piece shaft...
I'm a long term K2 Silverado owner from this forum. Just started looking at "potentially" swapping out my wife's Buick Enclave for a Tahoe or Yukon. Primarily for me to drive on long family road trips, as I feel like a leprechaun folded up in the Enclave (left foot dead-pedal sticks way too far out). Looking at an '18 or 19 Yukon/Tahoe, I see the 5.3L with he 6spd trans and the 6.2L with the 10spd. My '14 truck has the 6spd. I thought they quit using that thing years ago, like in '15. I was expecting 8 and 10spd transmissions in a '19 Tahoe. I swear the older Tahoe's had the 8spd's in them.... Either way, ideally I want the new Ford/GM 10-spd, and the 5.3L with the 2pd 4WD Case and the max tow pkg. Just wondering what happened to the 8spd transmissions in the SUV's. IIRC the trucks still have the 8spds. On a side note, more differences between the trucks and SUV's than I expected. I figured an LT Tahoe was like my '14 LT silverado. Not really... the LT Tahoe is much more uptown.
It appears you have to remove the intake manifold to access that screen?? Never knew it existed. I've been running a Gold Plug magnetic drain plug and Full 0-20 Syn oil since after my 2nd free oil change. I change the oil when the meter has about 25% remaining. Used to run M1 filter but the word is they have changed and dropped quality so I have been running WIX/Napa gold filters for the past few years.
Aside from the shakerado syndrom, the cloth seats in my '14 are not very comfortable. I find the Ford and Ram seats better. I'm at 93k on my '14, verdict is in. I sat in a '19 Sierra a the local auto show for 2 minutes and "think" the new seats are more comfortable.
Might have something to do with all the K2 shakerado claim.... I know I threw Yukon shafts at my axle and fought a leaking axle seal for years. And my R&P Backlash was way too high for me. Overall a crappy quality axle. I'm glad to see something change. I noticed something was different with the rear axle when watching the new T1 reviews and they were putting the cameras on the road and driving over them. I noticed a flange on the new axle, similar to a toyota. I just hope to god the T1 does not shake!
Hondahawkgt- That sounds like exactly the issue I had. I'm on day 2 with no issues. I'm starting to think the Akebono pads I put on fit tighter than the OEM pads and hence do not like the sand and dirt from my work site.
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