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FL335i

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FL335i last won the day on December 4 2016

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About FL335i

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  1. Selling the RA003 that I've been using in my truck for about 2yrs. Red lights option, V8.6R1. I never had a check engine light while using it. I have pics if you need them, email me and I will reply with them. Includes the original box. Note: Paypal payment is required. Your ship to address must accept postal service. [email protected]
  2. All I can say is it seems like the 6L80E trans likes to tear up fluid from what I've seenin 107k with my '14. Between the high temp cooler tstat and long fluid intervals..... it's a time bomb IMO. I removed the T-stat completely on my '14, my wife's '19 tahoe runs much cooler stock so I won't mess with hers. I've been doing fluid flushes and pan drops on mine every 45k. Then doing fluid flushes in between. I even added a external filter. I know a guy I work with and his '15 6L80E went at 103k. Cost $3k for the rebuild at a shop. $5,900 is nuts.
  3. I know a lot of people on forums and youtube have been trying to solve the front end popping noise when turning. Stumbled upon this today. Months after looking around.... not sure how I did not find this earlier. SB-10072150-0335.pdf
  4. I know the '14-'18's have an active recall for losing the brake assist in slow speed traffic. It's happened to me a few times over the 5yrs I've owned my truck in Tampa commuting traffic heading home from work. I had the re-calibration recall performed about a month ago. So far no lost brake assist post-recall. I would second the steer clear of 1st year models. I bought an '07 BMW 335i. Turns out in '08 they started adding the engine oil cooler to all of them, not just the sport packages because '07 base models were having oil temps peak 260*F and going into limp home mode. I was one of these folks, who lives in hellish Florida heat and traffic so oil temps would climb like a rocket ship in the summer. I had to put a oil cooler on it myself, BMW did not help at all. I opted for the Dinnan oil cooler kit and installed it myself. My wife's '19 Z71 Tahoe has much better brakes, throttle response, transmission shifting and paint compared to my '14. It's clear that the '19 tahoe has the bugs ironed out. I'm 2 for 2 on 1st year vehicles, never again. All trucks have issues, go to the ford forums, toyota forums etc.... everybody has "known issues". I personally know someone who bought a new 5.0 F150 and had the engine replaced under warranty due to oil consumption. Make a large cup of coffee and Youtube F150 5.0 oil consumption. Saving grace for my truck was I was able to battle and fix the 74mph+ shakes. If not, that would have been the end of it.
  5. How did the 2019 re-make not get rid of this antenna? My wife's '19 Tahoe does not have a mast antenna. My theory is men will live with it. Women buying SUV's will not.
  6. First off, man feels like forever since I've posted on here. Been busy with work and getting my K5 project moving. Well, still have my '14, its just under 105k and going strong. However, with my construction site and recreational off-road uses it's becoming evident the factory (non Z71) shocks are going bad. The ride around town is getting terrible on bumps, pavement changes etc. Feels like it crashes over bumps. I've been reading through all the level kit threads and came to the below combo recipe. Ranch Hand bumper + Height adjustable Bilstein shocks + 1" Diff drop. I currently have Air lift helper springs in the rear and LOVE them for towing to help mitigate squat. So as the truck sits right now with no ranch hand I'd like a 1" lift in the front. Put the ranch hand on and it will be more like needing a 1.5" lift to yield 1" I'm betting. I'm a stickler for doing things right and keeping things as OEM as possible. So dropping the diff 1" makes sense to me. Just wondering if anyone has a similar combo or if I'm way off track with this setup. Thanks!
  7. Well after driving my wife's 19 Tahoe some around town the trans temp on it gets up to 180-185. It behaves like a 180*F Thermostat where my '14 truck seemed to have a 194*F Thermostat. So those 14 or 15 degrees are a big deal IMO. I'm glad I did the mod. And my truck was in the 194-200*F range where now 178-183.
  8. Update. Two days of commuting with this mod. Worth every bit. I noticed the temps take a lot longer to get up there. With my 1hr commute in traffic the temps go to 178-180. Yesterday was very hot and sunny, temps were around 183 and 185. I'd say 180 seems to be the stabilization temp. Vs 194-199 that I normally would see in my same ride home. Wish I knew about this mod years ago.
  9. Guess what I did today!!! T-state delete mod. See how it goes over the next few weeks and I'll report updates. If anyone wants the info, I used a Dorman 1/4" NPT plug. Part # 02471 from Advance Auto. $1.49. I had a brass hex plug and decided not to use it. This Dorman plug has the recessed allen key providing a flush plug fitment. I put a little bit of blue loc-tite on it when installing. After tapping, I did an extensive cleaning with dawn dish soap and lots of compressed air. I would highly recommend not using solvents because there are o-rings in the hose connections and if you get those chemicals on the rubber, it will probably damage them. Just a heads up.
  10. I have 17x 9 American Racing Outlaws sitting in the garage Test fit them on the 9.5" axle they clear. I'll probably have to do some sort of a proportioning valve on the rear brakes.
  11. Well my KO2's were E load. Me and the tech worked hours to RF them on the 9700 Hunter. About 29-33 Lbs is the best we could do. Turning tires etc. The Nitto's got in the 3-13 range on the first shot at 40psi. The one at 18 lbs was at 48psi when it was RF'd so I let it go and chalked it up to the higher psi. I will say, the G2's are winning me over for daily driver and job site use.
  12. I've been running 275/65R18's with no lift or level. I think it's the perfect size tire. I would stay FAR away from an E load tire. My Ko2's were E load and wow.... loved them towing and off-road but for daily driving it beats the truck and you up. I dumped them last weekend for P275/65R18 Nitto G2's. No looking back. I have been looking for new tires and wheels for my K5 project and seems like tires are now all E load and heavy. Going with the OEM KO2's from a JL Rubicon Jeep. MUCH lighter and C rated. Again, stay away from E load unless you tow or haul a lot.
  13. Picked up my axle today. Out of a 2015. GU6, G80. 23k miles. included the rotors, calipers, blocks, e-brake cables... everything. Loaded. Truck was side swiped on the RF. No rear damage. I even opened the diff cover with the guys and saw the G80. Let the swap begin.
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