First off, man feels like forever since I've posted on here. Been busy with work and getting my K5 project moving. Well, still have my '14, its just under 105k and going strong. However, with my construction site and recreational off-road uses it's becoming evident the factory (non Z71) shocks are going bad. The ride around town is getting terrible on bumps, pavement changes etc. Feels like it crashes over bumps. I've been reading through all the level kit threads and came to the below combo recipe. Ranch Hand bumper + Height adjustable Bilstein shocks + 1" Diff drop. I currently have Air lift helper springs in the rear and LOVE them for towing to help mitigate squat. So as the truck sits right now with no ranch hand I'd like a 1" lift in the front. Put the ranch hand on and it will be more like needing a 1.5" lift to yield 1" I'm betting. I'm a stickler for doing things right and keeping things as OEM as possible. So dropping the diff 1" makes sense to me. Just wondering if anyone has a similar combo or if I'm way off track with this setup. Thanks!
Well after driving my wife's 19 Tahoe some around town the trans temp on it gets up to 180-185. It behaves like a 180*F Thermostat where my '14 truck seemed to have a 194*F Thermostat. So those 14 or 15 degrees are a big deal IMO. I'm glad I did the mod. And my truck was in the 194-200*F range where now 178-183.
Update. Two days of commuting with this mod. Worth every bit. I noticed the temps take a lot longer to get up there. With my 1hr commute in traffic the temps go to 178-180. Yesterday was very hot and sunny, temps were around 183 and 185. I'd say 180 seems to be the stabilization temp. Vs 194-199 that I normally would see in my same ride home. Wish I knew about this mod years ago.
Guess what I did today!!! T-state delete mod. See how it goes over the next few weeks and I'll report updates. If anyone wants the info, I used a Dorman 1/4" NPT plug. Part # 02471 from Advance Auto. $1.49. I had a brass hex plug and decided not to use it. This Dorman plug has the recessed allen key providing a flush plug fitment. I put a little bit of blue loc-tite on it when installing. After tapping, I did an extensive cleaning with dawn dish soap and lots of compressed air. I would highly recommend not using solvents because there are o-rings in the hose connections and if you get those chemicals on the rubber, it will probably damage them. Just a heads up.
FL335i replied to FL335i's topic in 1969-1994 Chevrolet K5 Blazer & GMC Fullsize JimmyI have 17x 9 American Racing Outlaws sitting in the garage Test fit them on the 9.5" axle they clear. I'll probably have to do some sort of a proportioning valve on the rear brakes.
Well my KO2's were E load. Me and the tech worked hours to RF them on the 9700 Hunter. About 29-33 Lbs is the best we could do. Turning tires etc. The Nitto's got in the 3-13 range on the first shot at 40psi. The one at 18 lbs was at 48psi when it was RF'd so I let it go and chalked it up to the higher psi. I will say, the G2's are winning me over for daily driver and job site use.
I've been running 275/65R18's with no lift or level. I think it's the perfect size tire. I would stay FAR away from an E load tire. My Ko2's were E load and wow.... loved them towing and off-road but for daily driving it beats the truck and you up. I dumped them last weekend for P275/65R18 Nitto G2's. No looking back. I have been looking for new tires and wheels for my K5 project and seems like tires are now all E load and heavy. Going with the OEM KO2's from a JL Rubicon Jeep. MUCH lighter and C rated. Again, stay away from E load unless you tow or haul a lot.
FL335i replied to FL335i's topic in 1969-1994 Chevrolet K5 Blazer & GMC Fullsize JimmyPicked up my axle today. Out of a 2015. GU6, G80. 23k miles. included the rotors, calipers, blocks, e-brake cables... everything. Loaded. Truck was side swiped on the RF. No rear damage. I even opened the diff cover with the guys and saw the G80. Let the swap begin.
Well for a quick refresher up to my point... My truck has had the arse end shake above 75MPH since new. I had the driveshaft balanced which helped some. Then I replaced the axle shafts with Yukons which helped also. but I still had a shake over 75. I replaced my KO's last weekend with Nitto G2's. I witnessed the road force balance (huge thanks to Discount tire for an awesome balance job on the Hunter Elite!) which was amazingly low numbers. 3 - 18. Took my truck out from Tampa to Orlando this week and had zero shake on both legs of the trip. And on the way back today was really impressive. Normally sunshine and high temps make the shake worse. Well it was 100*F and sunny this afternoon. Zero shake up to 81. I finally got to cruise with traffic at 77-78. My guess is the drive shaft and shafts help fix the shake, but the KO's had an imbalance which I was left with. Either way, my truck is shake free with the new tires. Thought I would share.
I've been all over my trans maintenance for reasons as this right here. I did a pan drop at 42k and then at 96k. I am also running an external spin-on filter to help clean the fluid. 1slow1500 was also on my thread about deleting the 194*F trans Tstat. Even more reason now after reading this. Hate to hear it happened on vacation.
Measured mine last night w/out taking the wheels off. Came up with 69.00" to 69.25". +/-. Call it 69. The front axle is 67. Stock rear is 64". So this swap would make the rear 2" wider than the front. With the body lines and from what I measured off the k5 fenders it would fill the wells nicely.
Not re-gearing. My k5 came with 3.42's stock. So a GU6 K2XX axle with 3.42's matches the front. And for the size of tire I'd be running, plenty of gear. That's one of the attractive parts of this for me. It's a complete, ratio matching, G80 locking diff with monster disc brakes, and late model. The wheel and tire combo I am switching to will be lighter than what I currently have now with the 33x12.50's on 15" rims. And the truck drives fine now.
Guys, I am on the verge of swapping in a rear axle from our 2014+ trucks into my '89 K5. One of the biggest reasons I stopped going down this path last year was not wanting to buy new wheels and tires to clear the K2XX brakes as my K5's sitting on 33x12.50 with 15" wheels. Fast forward to today, I'm kind of over 15" wheels and need new tires anyway. I have original Ko's on it and they're old. So I'm looking at 17" x 8" American Racing Outlaw II's and running the new Jeep Rubicon KO2 LT285/70R17 in a load range C. Few reasons I want to do the 12 bolt 9.5" swap is because by the time I buy all the parts for the 10 bolt, I'm in it for a small fortune and still have a 8.5/8.6" gear, drum brakes and the rear axle is narrower than the front axle which has always driven my type A self nuts. A lot of the K5 guys do 1.25" wheel spacers, but that is not for me. And I'm restoring this K5 to be a daily driver of sorts so I want a nice axle and brakes. I'm currently dealing with a wrecking yard that has a 2015 K2XX truck with frontal damage only, and the rear axle is a GU6 3.42 and has the G80 locker, 60k miles. Without having to go home and take the tires off the rear of my truck, does anyone know the width of our axles from WMS to WMS? From what I read online the K5's front axle is 67" and the rear is 64-3/8". If anyone could save me the hassle of taking tires off tonight that would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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