FL335i

Sold the tahoe, no longer need this tuner. I bought it directly from diablosport to adjust for tire size. PM me. Located in Tampa, FL

Thanks! I have this feeling the racks are not designed strong enough to keep. Curious if other late model 1/2 tons are having similar issues with the racks. The rack in my 2014 Silverado was needing bushings and internal spacer bushings when I sold it a few years ago. 112k on it. I'm 2 for 2 on the GM racks.

So with 38k on our '19 Z71 Tahoe, it appears the rack and is dancing around when you turn the wheels and the vehicle is stationary. I started noticing a lot of 'float' or 'play' when driving it, figured it was an alignment but then started hearing knocking noises when turning the wheels in the garage. Had the wife turn the wheels while I looked at the rack. It is moving quite a bit. Bit ticked off the bushings are bad with little miles, only towed once and doesn't off-road. All the bushings I could find that are aftermarket are for the older platform, nothing for the 2015-2019. Has anyone found anything?

How did the 2019 re-make not get rid of this antenna? My wife's '19 Tahoe does not have a mast antenna. My theory is men will live with it. Women buying SUV's will not.

I've been running 275/65R18's with no lift or level. I think it's the perfect size tire. I would stay FAR away from an E load tire. My Ko2's were E load and wow.... loved them towing and off-road but for daily driving it beats the truck and you up. I dumped them last weekend for P275/65R18 Nitto G2's. No looking back. I have been looking for new tires and wheels for my K5 project and seems like tires are now all E load and heavy. Going with the OEM KO2's from a JL Rubicon Jeep. MUCH lighter and C rated. Again, stay away from E load unless you tow or haul a lot.

Your welcome.

Long term update. I'm at 93k and still running this trans filter setup. Not one leak. I was doing 1yr/20k intervals on the filter but this past year have been lighter on mileage and busy.... was supposed to change at Christmas break, but didn't. So I'm about 14 months and 20k on the current filter. Looking to do a full trans service at my next LOF of around 97k. Trans pan filter, spin-on filter and fluid. Love this setup and would do it again. The 1269 filter is much smaller than the cheap "flush" filter I started with which was a full-size FL1A or whatever oil filter. Thing was the size of a house. The 1269 is tucked nicely up in the rails.

90k on my '14. Personal and industrial construction site use. Holding up pretty well. I maintain and keep up with things like no tomorrow though. Big items were 1- Replacing the rear axle shafts with Yukon's and chasing the axle leak and shaker-ado issue. 99.9% gone.... 2- Lower ball joints bad at 85k. I'm sure my use and E Load KO'2s didn't help. Replaced with grease-able Moog's. Really wish GM would put grease fittings on all the joints like they do on the 2500's. 3- Rear engine oil leak fixed under warranty around 35k. I guess the early '14's had an oil leak issue on the rear main or flywheel bolts. I talked to the tech who did my truck and he said mine was like the 9th truck he has done for this. All in all, I have the truck very dialed in for my use and have no plan on getting rid of it soon. 200k/10yrs is what I'm aiming for.

Found this thread.... I did my lower ball joints about 3-5k ago (85K). I noticed this front end popping noise while going through our local McDonald's drive through, before and after the lower ball joints. Left hand curve and cambered. I just came in from outside and jacked up my front end. Checked for TRE and bearing play. Nothing. Everything is tight. My upper Ball joints were good when I did the lowers. The studs were not sloppy and had no play. I still hear this noise every now and then when going through the drive through. I torqued the lower and upper control arm frame bolts too. I am starting to think it's a shock/strut issue. Nowhere near bad enough to make me replace the shocks though.

Glad to hear my old post helped. I'm at 87k and still running the trans filter kit. I replace the filter 1/yr. Trans fluid looks great and the tranny is running great.

Well the good news is they haven't broken since they broke and didn't get fixed.

So much for that theory. I'd take it in and if they say "it's normal". Then ask for a print out of the GM Service Manual that provides the oil pressure range spec.

My 5.3L has always shown 30psi or 1 needle under 30psi at hot idle in FL. Even when it's 99 outside. Could be the oil if you had a shop or dealer do it. I would be curious if you did your own oil change with PP/Valvoline/M1 0w-20 what the pressures would be.

The people that troll these forums are customer service types. They don't know what R&P Backlash is or why we're doing what we're doing with a paint stick. If you like this thread, check out my Yukon axle shafts thread.... lot more expensive than a paint stick.

Doing my break job this upcoming weekend. Searched for this.... Thanks again buddy. Can't believe the front caliper pin bolts are 74Lbs!