Everything posted by FL335i
Selling the RA003 that I've been using in my truck for about 2yrs. Red lights option, V8.6R1. I never had a check engine light while using it. I have pics if you need them, email me and I will reply with them. Includes the original box. Note: Paypal payment is required. Your ship to address must accept postal service. [email protected]
All I can say is it seems like the 6L80E trans likes to tear up fluid from what I've seenin 107k with my '14. Between the high temp cooler tstat and long fluid intervals..... it's a time bomb IMO. I removed the T-stat completely on my '14, my wife's '19 tahoe runs much cooler stock so I won't mess with hers. I've been doing fluid flushes and pan drops on mine every 45k. Then doing fluid flushes in between. I even added a external filter. I know a guy I work with and his '15 6L80E went at 103k. Cost $3k for the rebuild at a shop. $5,900 is nuts.
I know a lot of people on forums and youtube have been trying to solve the front end popping noise when turning. Stumbled upon this today. Months after looking around.... not sure how I did not find this earlier. SB-10072150-0335.pdf
I know the '14-'18's have an active recall for losing the brake assist in slow speed traffic. It's happened to me a few times over the 5yrs I've owned my truck in Tampa commuting traffic heading home from work. I had the re-calibration recall performed about a month ago. So far no lost brake assist post-recall. I would second the steer clear of 1st year models. I bought an '07 BMW 335i. Turns out in '08 they started adding the engine oil cooler to all of them, not just the sport packages because '07 base models were having oil temps peak 260*F and going into limp home mode. I
First off, man feels like forever since I've posted on here. Been busy with work and getting my K5 project moving. Well, still have my '14, its just under 105k and going strong. However, with my construction site and recreational off-road uses it's becoming evident the factory (non Z71) shocks are going bad. The ride around town is getting terrible on bumps, pavement changes etc. Feels like it crashes over bumps. I've been reading through all the level kit threads and came to the below combo recipe. Ranch Hand bumper + Height adjustable Bilstein shocks + 1" Diff drop. I curren
Well after driving my wife's 19 Tahoe some around town the trans temp on it gets up to 180-185. It behaves like a 180*F Thermostat where my '14 truck seemed to have a 194*F Thermostat. So those 14 or 15 degrees are a big deal IMO. I'm glad I did the mod. And my truck was in the 194-200*F range where now 178-183.
Update. Two days of commuting with this mod. Worth every bit. I noticed the temps take a lot longer to get up there. With my 1hr commute in traffic the temps go to 178-180. Yesterday was very hot and sunny, temps were around 183 and 185. I'd say 180 seems to be the stabilization temp. Vs 194-199 that I normally would see in my same ride home. Wish I knew about this mod years ago.
Guess what I did today!!! T-state delete mod. See how it goes over the next few weeks and I'll report updates. If anyone wants the info, I used a Dorman 1/4" NPT plug. Part # 02471 from Advance Auto. $1.49. I had a brass hex plug and decided not to use it. This Dorman plug has the recessed allen key providing a flush plug fitment. I put a little bit of blue loc-tite on it when installing. After tapping, I did an extensive cleaning with dawn dish soap and lots of compressed air. I would highly recommend not using solvents because there are o-rings in the hose connections an
FL335i replied to FL335i's topic in 1969-1994 Chevrolet K5 Blazer & GMC Fullsize JimmyI have 17x 9 American Racing Outlaws sitting in the garage Test fit them on the 9.5" axle they clear. I'll probably have to do some sort of a proportioning valve on the rear brakes.
Well my KO2's were E load. Me and the tech worked hours to RF them on the 9700 Hunter. About 29-33 Lbs is the best we could do. Turning tires etc. The Nitto's got in the 3-13 range on the first shot at 40psi. The one at 18 lbs was at 48psi when it was RF'd so I let it go and chalked it up to the higher psi. I will say, the G2's are winning me over for daily driver and job site use.
I've been running 275/65R18's with no lift or level. I think it's the perfect size tire. I would stay FAR away from an E load tire. My Ko2's were E load and wow.... loved them towing and off-road but for daily driving it beats the truck and you up. I dumped them last weekend for P275/65R18 Nitto G2's. No looking back. I have been looking for new tires and wheels for my K5 project and seems like tires are now all E load and heavy. Going with the OEM KO2's from a JL Rubicon Jeep. MUCH lighter and C rated. Again, stay away from E load unless you tow or haul a lot.
FL335i replied to FL335i's topic in 1969-1994 Chevrolet K5 Blazer & GMC Fullsize JimmyPicked up my axle today. Out of a 2015. GU6, G80. 23k miles. included the rotors, calipers, blocks, e-brake cables... everything. Loaded. Truck was side swiped on the RF. No rear damage. I even opened the diff cover with the guys and saw the G80. Let the swap begin.
Well for a quick refresher up to my point... My truck has had the arse end shake above 75MPH since new. I had the driveshaft balanced which helped some. Then I replaced the axle shafts with Yukons which helped also. but I still had a shake over 75. I replaced my KO's last weekend with Nitto G2's. I witnessed the road force balance (huge thanks to Discount tire for an awesome balance job on the Hunter Elite!) which was amazingly low numbers. 3 - 18. Took my truck out from Tampa to Orlando this week and had zero shake on both legs of the trip. And on the way back today was really impress
I've been all over my trans maintenance for reasons as this right here. I did a pan drop at 42k and then at 96k. I am also running an external spin-on filter to help clean the fluid. 1slow1500 was also on my thread about deleting the 194*F trans Tstat. Even more reason now after reading this. Hate to hear it happened on vacation.
Measured mine last night w/out taking the wheels off. Came up with 69.00" to 69.25". +/-. Call it 69. The front axle is 67. Stock rear is 64". So this swap would make the rear 2" wider than the front. With the body lines and from what I measured off the k5 fenders it would fill the wells nicely.
Not re-gearing. My k5 came with 3.42's stock. So a GU6 K2XX axle with 3.42's matches the front. And for the size of tire I'd be running, plenty of gear. That's one of the attractive parts of this for me. It's a complete, ratio matching, G80 locking diff with monster disc brakes, and late model. The wheel and tire combo I am switching to will be lighter than what I currently have now with the 33x12.50's on 15" rims. And the truck drives fine now.
Guys, I am on the verge of swapping in a rear axle from our 2014+ trucks into my '89 K5. One of the biggest reasons I stopped going down this path last year was not wanting to buy new wheels and tires to clear the K2XX brakes as my K5's sitting on 33x12.50 with 15" wheels. Fast forward to today, I'm kind of over 15" wheels and need new tires anyway. I have original Ko's on it and they're old. So I'm looking at 17" x 8" American Racing Outlaw II's and running the new Jeep Rubicon KO2 LT285/70R17 in a load range C. Few reasons I want to do the 12 bolt 9.5" swap is because by the time I buy a
FL335i posted a topic in 1969-1994 Chevrolet K5 Blazer & GMC Fullsize JimmyWell I built my front Corp 10 as strong as I could get it a year or two ago. I've been putting off what to do with the rear axle. It's narrower than the front. It's weak. It's got drum brakes. That's 3 big strikes and you're out of the old ball game. I did a parts list for a rebuild, locker, and F body disc brake conversion.... would cost a fortune. And after all that it's still a 10 bolt bolt in the rear. I've been eyeing the rear axle out of my 2014 truck. It's a 9.5" gear, disc brakes and probably wider. Well I just put an offer on one out of a 2015 truck with 60k, so it does not
10-4 on that. We bought the '19 Z71 Tahoe back in Feb/March. So far LOVE IT. 6spd, 5.3, 3.42 gears, Z71 pkg and best of all, bench 2nd row so we can keep the UN-usable, elf only 3rd row down. only complaint I have is the 3rd row should not be in that truck. I saw the 2020 was going IRS and said nope. pull the trigger on the last year of the platform. Less issues, proven and not IRS.
Well I just had new tires installed today. Had the E load KO2's replaced with the same 275/65R18 size Nitto G2's. But I went with a non-LT rated version. They weight 43.7Lbs vs the 55lbs of the Ko2's. I have about 50 miles on them already today and so far so good. Much smoother ride. But over bad bumps and quilt patched roads still feels like my factory shocks are letting the truck skip around too much. But with 98k on them... 47k of that with 55# KO2's.... my shocks are probably shot anyway. So I'd say I'm still leaning toward 4600's in the rear to save some $ and 5100's up front to l
Pulled the trigger on doing the T-stat delete. Got a 1/4" NPT tap and brass plug coming my way. Once complete, then I can un-spin the external filter I have and flush the transmission that way.
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