FL335i

Sold the tahoe, no longer need this tuner. I bought it directly from diablosport to adjust for tire size. PM me. Located in Tampa, FL

Thanks! I have this feeling the racks are not designed strong enough to keep. Curious if other late model 1/2 tons are having similar issues with the racks. The rack in my 2014 Silverado was needing bushings and internal spacer bushings when I sold it a few years ago. 112k on it. I'm 2 for 2 on the GM racks.

So with 38k on our '19 Z71 Tahoe, it appears the rack and is dancing around when you turn the wheels and the vehicle is stationary. I started noticing a lot of 'float' or 'play' when driving it, figured it was an alignment but then started hearing knocking noises when turning the wheels in the garage. Had the wife turn the wheels while I looked at the rack. It is moving quite a bit. Bit ticked off the bushings are bad with little miles, only towed once and doesn't off-road. All the bushings I could find that are aftermarket are for the older platform, nothing for the 2015-2019. Has anyone found anything?

How did the 2019 re-make not get rid of this antenna? My wife's '19 Tahoe does not have a mast antenna. My theory is men will live with it. Women buying SUV's will not.

I've been running 275/65R18's with no lift or level. I think it's the perfect size tire. I would stay FAR away from an E load tire. My Ko2's were E load and wow.... loved them towing and off-road but for daily driving it beats the truck and you up. I dumped them last weekend for P275/65R18 Nitto G2's. No looking back. I have been looking for new tires and wheels for my K5 project and seems like tires are now all E load and heavy. Going with the OEM KO2's from a JL Rubicon Jeep. MUCH lighter and C rated. Again, stay away from E load unless you tow or haul a lot.

Your welcome.

Long term update. I'm at 93k and still running this trans filter setup. Not one leak. I was doing 1yr/20k intervals on the filter but this past year have been lighter on mileage and busy.... was supposed to change at Christmas break, but didn't. So I'm about 14 months and 20k on the current filter. Looking to do a full trans service at my next LOF of around 97k. Trans pan filter, spin-on filter and fluid. Love this setup and would do it again. The 1269 filter is much smaller than the cheap "flush" filter I started with which was a full-size FL1A or whatever oil filter. Thing was the size of a house. The 1269 is tucked nicely up in the rails.

90k on my '14. Personal and industrial construction site use. Holding up pretty well. I maintain and keep up with things like no tomorrow though. Big items were 1- Replacing the rear axle shafts with Yukon's and chasing the axle leak and shaker-ado issue. 99.9% gone.... 2- Lower ball joints bad at 85k. I'm sure my use and E Load KO'2s didn't help. Replaced with grease-able Moog's. Really wish GM would put grease fittings on all the joints like they do on the 2500's. 3- Rear engine oil leak fixed under warranty around 35k. I guess the early '14's had an oil leak issue on the rear main or flywheel bolts. I talked to the tech who did my truck and he said mine was like the 9th truck he has done for this. All in all, I have the truck very dialed in for my use and have no plan on getting rid of it soon. 200k/10yrs is what I'm aiming for.

Found this thread.... I did my lower ball joints about 3-5k ago (85K). I noticed this front end popping noise while going through our local McDonald's drive through, before and after the lower ball joints. Left hand curve and cambered. I just came in from outside and jacked up my front end. Checked for TRE and bearing play. Nothing. Everything is tight. My upper Ball joints were good when I did the lowers. The studs were not sloppy and had no play. I still hear this noise every now and then when going through the drive through. I torqued the lower and upper control arm frame bolts too. I am starting to think it's a shock/strut issue. Nowhere near bad enough to make me replace the shocks though.

Glad to hear my old post helped. I'm at 87k and still running the trans filter kit. I replace the filter 1/yr. Trans fluid looks great and the tranny is running great.

Well the good news is they haven't broken since they broke and didn't get fixed.

So much for that theory. I'd take it in and if they say "it's normal". Then ask for a print out of the GM Service Manual that provides the oil pressure range spec.

My 5.3L has always shown 30psi or 1 needle under 30psi at hot idle in FL. Even when it's 99 outside. Could be the oil if you had a shop or dealer do it. I would be curious if you did your own oil change with PP/Valvoline/M1 0w-20 what the pressures would be.

The people that troll these forums are customer service types. They don't know what R&P Backlash is or why we're doing what we're doing with a paint stick. If you like this thread, check out my Yukon axle shafts thread.... lot more expensive than a paint stick.

Doing my break job this upcoming weekend. Searched for this.... Thanks again buddy. Can't believe the front caliper pin bolts are 74Lbs!

Well after a few days of use the bushing is doing well. Tailgate feels great and I really think we found the ROOT CAUSE to the on-going bushing failures. I'm 99% confident the bent piece was the issue. Because with a new bushing, when you "shoved it in", into the receiver piece it probably was causing damage to the bushing so it was downhill from the moment of install. Like I said, after straightening my metal, installing the new bushing.... the tailgate went RIGHT on, super smooth, no shoving and pushing required like in the past.

New bushing came in today. Apparently the new GM Part # is 84331136. Lets give this another try...

Well turns out my tailgate looked bent just like yours!!! I used a crescent wrench and bent it back. All straight now. I cleaned both the tailgate and receiver piece with WD40 and a rag to ensure it's super clean on both ends. Buying a new bushing today online. Looking at my old broken bushing, it's broke right where the "flared out" piece would be. Thanks for your post and video. Going to give this another try now.

Good video. I have not checked this on my truck... doing it tomorrow! Wonder why that piece on the gate is bent. EG- overloading? I don't believe that piece is replaceable, it's part of the tailgate itself. But i will check mine and straighten it out.

Ok, I'm on my 4th tailgate bushing since I bought my truck in late 2014. This most recent one only lasted about 6-9 months. I keep the tailgate jamb clean. Not sure why this last one went so quickly. Is there something else that needs replaced along with it? Part # of the bushing is 22966936. These things are not cheap either. About $30 a pop. That's $120 in tailgate bushings in less than 4 yrs.

Yup. Still working great. I'm at 80k. I've been doing the filter change at least 1x every year.

I never took it to the dealer. I'm out of warranty at 80k and 4yrs. Not worried about it, it can't break again if it's still broken.

I'm looking for a factory replacement fuel tank. The other option is do a fuel tank with a 12V pump in the bed. I don't fill-up any equipment at work, so I really don't need a transfer tank in the bed. I drive mainly city so I'm averaging about 14mpg. So it's about every 300 miles per fill-up. Every 4 days. If I'm towing or doing extra trips/errands it's about every 3 days. This is one more item the F150 has over the Silverado. dammit.

Does anyone know if there a company out there that makes a larger fuel tank replacement for the 2014+ 1500's? Everything I googled was for 2500 Diesels or 2500 Gas trucks. I wouldn't mind a 35 +/- fuel tank on my truck. I drive a lot for work and seems like I'm always filling up with 18-20 gallon fill ups. Lot of the ford guys at work have brand new '18 F150's and they have 34 or 37 gallon tanks. I rather replace my gas tank vs. drive a ford. But at some point, the ford trucks are offering the right options on the lots... i'm fighting the good fight. Need a larger fuel tank.

I have the Airaid intake TUBE only. Factory air box. Running a WIX K47 "High capacity Z71" air filter. When I had the air box out I also noticed on the part that goes through the fender, what looked to be stamp outs for more or bigger holes. So I used a 1" Paddle bit, twice and dremeled it clean to match the punch lines. Turns out I was on our forum a few days later and it's the 6.2L air boxes that have those knockouts cutout. So basically I have a 6.2L air box, K47 GM code "high capaicity" WIX filter and the Airrad MIT pipe. LOVE IT. I refuse to run foam filters. For filtration and MAF cleanliness, Paper filters are king. Yes you can hear my intake clear as day when on it.