FL335i

As for the trains kit, I posted in someone else's old thread about the trans cooler. I found two GM diagrams of the oil cooler and trans cooler. So I posted those to help out and heck, helped me b/c I did not understand the arrangement of piping and parts to be honest until I found those diagrams and looked it this past weekend. I ended up buying a Derale filter base from summit racing for $32 shipped. Starting with that. Going to run a NAPA 1269 hydraulic 10 micron filter. I'm going to cut one of the trans lines at the rubber section and barb into with some 3/8" hose. I need to figure out two things.. 1- where exactly to I want to mount the filter/base. 2- if I'm putting the filter inline before the radiator/cooler or after. I'm leaning toward the later. That would mean the fluid comes out of the trans, go to the radiator, to the condenser (ext cooler) and then to the filter and back to the slush box. I'm going to remove the front skid plates and see what room I have and pick a spot on the frame. I've got this kit about 90% built in my head. It's not rocket science. But my truck has 42k and the fluid is not exactly looking new anymore. The last detail I'm thinking is going to be putting a magnet on the dome end of the filter, or side... Something. I just installed a Magnefine p/s filter on my '89 K5 and like the idea of a filter and magnet. Don't worry, I'll do a write up of this kit too.

Has anyone installed a spin-on filter kit for the trans on the K2's yet? I want to install one. Going to be my next mod. Go along with my coolant filter kit and 1500 HD Badging. JK on the badging. Looking for tips of mounting location, fittings etc... Looks like I might be going blind on this mod too. Coolant System Filter How To: Update 04/09/2015 Ok, the remote spin-on trans filter kit went on this morning at 41,843 miles. Parts and costs: -Derale base kit. Part # 13005. $32.92 -Napa Gold Hydraulic Filter. Part # 1269. $13.00 -Napa Pro Select Filter. Part # 21515. $3.18 -3/8" Transmission Hose. I bought 6', used 1'. $3.56 for 1' -3/8" SST Hose Clamps from HD. Had them already, they're like $1/ea. Figure $4 for clamps. -1qt of Dexron VI. $6.41 Grand Total cost of $63.07 Let's talk flow direction of the trans fluid. There was a lot of threads on the internet regarding which port on the trans is the output and which is the return, which way it flows through the radiator and external cooler. I can say for certain, that the flow direction goes into the external trans cooler (Condenser top portion) on the passenger side, then goes into the top of the radiator and comes out of the bottom of the radiator and back to the transmission. I actually had the hoses on the filter base backwards at first. With everything hooked up I had my wife start the truck while I was under it to visually verify the trans fluid was flowing correct into the filter base. Good thing I did, b/c based on the internet theories it was backwards. I swapped the hoses on the base and re-verified with the engine running for a few seconds. Flow path is as follows: Transmission -> Filter base -> External trans cooler (condenser) inlet on the passenger side -> small metal hose that goes from the external cooler into the top of the radiator (driver side) -> out the bottom of the radiator (driver side) -> back to trans. I cut the section of factory rubber hose that goes up toward the passenger side (ext cooler/condenser). I did this out of pure fitment and install. I could care less if the filter was before or after the radiator/cooler. Does not make a difference. With my setup, I was able to cut the factory rubber hose and hook it directly to the filter base. Eliminating another splice and more clamps. I wanted to keep the factory metal lines in place also. Trying to keep the chances of a leak and or issues as low as possible. The 21515 (PH8A) filter I have in the pics is a monster. 1qt filter. It hangs down quite a bit below the frame, but it does clear the skid plate. However I would not consider it a prime location for rock crawling and smashing through the woods. but I wanted to make sure I could run the full size PH8A filters and still install the skid plate. Mission accomplished. I'm only running this monster filter for about 2 weeks and then I'm changing to the small compact 1269 hydraulic filter. I wanted to run the cheap oil filter to do some initial cleanup before I put a $13 hydraulic filter on there that's rated at 10 micron. Side note, the wix filter for the factory allison transmissions is rated at 15 micron. I'm happy with how the install went. I will snap some updated pics in few weeks when I change out to the 1269 filter. That filter should barely hang below the frame. It's half the height of the 21515. Hope this helps guys. I spent 80% of my time just laying on my back figuring out where I was going to mount the base. Another option could be to use a Magnefine filter in the factory rubber hose sections. I could of installed that thing in 5 minutes. I have a magnefine on my '89 K5 P/S system. Another side note. I'm just shy of 42k miles. the ATF if factory fill and when cutting the line and all what I caught my oil drain pan container was darker than expected. Yes I have towed, not a lot. Lots of Hwy driving too. But the fluid compare to the new fluid I put in was unreal. Color was very dark. It smells bad compare to the new quart of fluid. My point is I would say I would definitely be due for a service at 50k. I may actually leave the monster cheap oil filter on there and just do a full trans pan service at 45k. Along with adding a PML low profile aluminum pan so I have a drain plug. Put the 1269 filter on at that service.

BDBake01- I just used that product. It pooled like crazy in the accordion pipe. I've used Seafoam, etc before. Did I get a bad can? Mine sprayed a very oily type spray. Was not impressed. Made a mess for me to clean up.

When I first posted this, I had no idea how much of a hot topic this would be. Man.

^Please update. My truck pedal makes noise 100% of the time time Unreal. I wish I took it in before the 36k warranty ran up. I was so busy and confident it was a bit of grease on the brake pedal rode by the foot well area..... NOT.

Update again. Whatever the dealer did a few months back in July is over with. My truck has been consistently squeaking on the brake pedal. I cannot get it to stop..

I posted on page 2 of this thread months ago and got a software update. All has been well until today. I came back from a 3 day business trip, had my truck parked at the Tampa airport, level 3 of the garage. So it was not in the sunlight or elements. Driving home my screen goes black for a few minutes.... comes back. Few minutes later screen is black again. Few more minutes it's back. I noticed the trip A and B were not reset, however I did notice the oil life meter was reset to 97%. It was at 30? During my first black screen incident, the oil meter was reset also. I'm at 37k miles, perfect timing. 1k out of warranty. Truck is 18 mo old. I can this them trying to have me pay for this. I won't. I'll rip the F****ing thing out and put in an old school Stereo. I've had quite a few issues with this truck, all mechanical leaks. I've been wondering if the truck has this many repairs when it's under warranty, how many is going to need out of warranty. Here is my first issue out of warranty.... Update: I drove my truck today to the gym and HD. No issues today. But my oil % meter was reset yesterday.... I'm at 96% today. I have lost faith in the oil % system if it resets like that. I'm going to put a sticker on the windscreen for 7,500mi OCI's as a reminder that cannot be reset. That is what the computer will run you up to unless you're really sucking fuel. Update 2/7. Screen is working good. No issues since Friday 2/5. Not sure what all that was about Friday coming home from the airport after sitting 3 days.

I'm in a 2015/16 GMC Canyon loaner truck. Frame is PAINTED. Very nicely. I'm jealous. Why did my full size truck frame get a coal tar wax job when the canyon gets a super nice looking paint job.

^That's what mine was doing. You got a leak from the either the rear main or more than likely the flywheel bolts. Oh, FYI.... I still don't have my truck back. I am driving a new Canyon loaner. Nice little truck, but I miss my 5.3 and the AFE I want the job done right. I'm not pushing them.

Update. I stopped by the dealer. They were very cool showing the me truck and the leaks, and talking to the tech. It's not my rear main. it was the flex plate bolts that were leaking. So the good news is he didn't have to drop the oil pan and do a rear main seal. I'm very happy about that. Factory sealed engines are never duplicated. The bad news is he still had to pull the transmission, exhaust and driveshafts. But they were correct, thing was leaking inside the bell housing. The solution was re-install the flex plate bolts with the white bolt thread sealer dope. He used an AC Delco tube, looked just like the version I got from Autozone for my K5 project. I used that stuff on my intake manifold bolts and the Harmonic Damper bolt. So I'm not as disappointed as I originally was over this deal. I'm actually glad the dealer found this. So heads up to fellow 14's... check for oil leaks at the bell housing. Knowing this, I would remove the flex plate inspection cover before my warranty is up.... As for the damp spot on the front of the block that was the whole reason I took the truck in (LOL).... tech really didn't want to mess with it. I was OK documenting it. I just don't want it leaking like a sieve the day after my warranty is up. We left it as he'd check some other 5.3's and see how they looked. I wasn't going to throw a fit. Tech was doing a huge job for me already on the flex plate bolts. Worst case is the dealer does the front leak when it gets worse down the road or I'll buy the gasket and do it myself in 15 minutes. Small stuff is one thing. Pulling a trans is another. I'm keeping things in perspective here. I'm happy thus far with the dealer and tech. This whole experience is proof that talking to the tech and getting under the car is priceless. I'm in industrial construction. After a few emails and calls to the engineers I tell them to suit up boys and come out to the field so I can show you why what you designed will not work Takes 3 seconds for the light bulb to go off. our society needs more hands on in your face time with problems. It's not a bad thing.

^I almost did that myself vs even having the dealer mess with it. It looks like 3 torx screws and an O-ring behind the cover. But I have a warranty... figured let them mess with it. next thing ya know I'm out of a truck for 3 days b/c of a rear main leak that came out of left field.

I've been watching the front of my block. behind the belts, there is a 3 bolt cover about 3" dia with a sensor. Wet in that area as dirt and such stick to it. I've wiped it clean twice and it's come back twice, slowly. So I'm on vacation this week and take it in today. Get a call 3hrs later about a rear-main leak. I never even knew my rear main was leaking. I do my own oil changes too.. figure I would of noticed it. So the dealer is addressing both leaks. In some ways I'm glad they found the rear main. The scary part is how did I miss that leak. I've never had any drops on my driveway. Is the rear main a common leak? I have the 5.3L.

Well proof my home-made repairs are holding WAY better than the dealer fixes. I now have 35k on the truck and it's been about 12-13 months since I sprayed my framed. No rust. Looks great. Again, $5 from Home Depot for a can of flat black Rustoleum enamel, sand paper, de-waxer/prep fluid + 2 coats and you're golden kids. Dealers are parts changers. I'm currently restoring a 89 K5 GMC Jimmy (AKA Full size blazer) and the frame has no rust. Just 3 spots on the body. Something tells me if you don't treat your '14's frame ASAP in 27yrs it won't look good.

spec- agreed, the severe service for the trans is 45k, but IIRC it's 97.5k or 100k for regular service. Hence why I threw 60k. With my driving and towing history I've had good luck with 60k intervals on my other company trucks. At 60k is when the fluid started to look like it needed a change. So the 60k is based on my 10yrs of construction business use driving GM 1500's. The diff is filled for life... if you want to buy that BS. I've built axles for my rock crawler and always do a break-in period to flush out particles. at 16k when my axle seal was leaking, the oil was nasty looking. Dark as coffee and yes I know GM uses the purple stuff. But I also know that the front diff is filled with conventional 80-90 lube. I use 4wd almost on a daily basis on my sites. And I've already towed and hauled some good heavy loads. And I've been wiping the magnet on the rear diff even after the axle leak repair and still am getting particles. I want 75/90 Full SYN fluid in both front and rear diffs. M1 or Valvoline Syn gear lube. And the G80 locker is mechanical, so I'm not worried about some proprietary friction modifier as with some LSD's. And the front diff is an open diff. I like my diff fluid super clean... just me. And brake fluid needs changed more often than the GM spec. BMW calls for 3yrs or 36K, which their OLM system also monitors brake fluid and brake pads. Brake fluid needs changed when it gets dark. Period. I live in FL, high humidity and I flush the brake systems out with a motive power bleeder. I'll be using the NAPA DOT 3 & 4 fluid as it has a higher boiling temp. In most European countries when you get your annual inspection, they sample your brake fluid and test it for "boiling temp" in a machine. And I've boiled the brake fluid on my corvette years ago more than once to learn that lesson. So I'm a bit more particular on my maintenance than most. Rust. FL doesn't really have rust issues. I see 1975 corollas running around Tampa burning more oil then gas. I did 2 rounds of frame cleaning and painting on my truck using rustoleum's flat black enamel. 25k later and almost a year later it's looking like the day I did the repairs. And I haven't seen any other spots pop up either. I think the frame had some "spots" or areas that were not properly wiped before coating at the factory. B/c i on one spot it's perfect, then in 4 locations, like a rack that held the frame maybe, it was coming off. So I think my rust issues are behind me.

I've had my truck 11 months, I have 28k. I do about 25k-30k/yr. This truck should be fine for 300k if well taken care of. It's a slowly evolved platform. No turbos etc. Engine is another cleaned up version of the SB Chevy. I would suggest 60k intervals on the transmission service. And I'm doing my front and rear diffs at my next oil change which will be around 32k. The rear diff had the fluid changed at 16k due to a axle seal leaking and warranty covered it, so they had to drain and fill it. But IMO, the whole reason I bought my truck over the other options like turbos, or a 8spd Chrysler etc. was knowing I was going to have a high mileage truck quickly how I drive. And I wanted low maintenance and simple maintenance. It was either the Tundra or Silverado IMO which are the two best for longevity and high mileage and simple maintenance that I could do at home. Silverado has the Tundra blown out of the water when you look at warranty coverage and MPG's in terms of a business vehicle. And here I am on the GM forum. It was the best business option on the table. Spark plugs will be a TBD item. I drove a lincoln MKZ with the V6 for work for a few years and the "100k" plugs were toast at 65k. So we shall see how that item goes on this truck. Again, simple and easy to do. I wouldn't worry about miles on this truck. Maintenance it and check the suspension for wear. Drive on.

flapper valve in the exhaust. I did a AFE cat-back. Best thing this truck has ever seen. No more chirping either.

I think as long as you run any dexos 1 approved 0-20 syn, and a quality filter (ie- AC, Wix, M1 Etc) the engine oil will be the last failure item on the list IF you keep the truck that long to find out. Say you change the oil every 7,500mi per the OLM. You keep the truck 10yrs and drive like me 25k-30k/yr. So the truck will have 250k-300k in 10yrs. You'll have done 33-40 oil changes. Say the difference between running M1 vs Synpower is $10 per oil change. It's every bit of that IIRC from two weeks ago. The 5qt jugs are like $5 more for M1 @ walmart, then you gotta buy the 3 quarts which are like 2-3 more ea. So at 300k miles and 10yr later is your truck worth $400 more b/c you ran M1 over synpower? Is the engine going to be in any better shape? Even if it is, the truck is by far shot. And can you imagine the new silverado they'll have out in 2024? Need to keep things in check. And we know based on UOA's that M1 and Synpower are both top tier oils and it's a personal preference at that point. And I think Pennzoil started carrying the dexos1 on some of their oils recently too. Just run a quality dexos 1 0-20 full syn, change it per the OLM, run a quality filter and find something else in life to spend your time on.