FL335i

Have not found any other bed to frame grounds other than the fuel filler neck. Again, I added my own bed to frame ground strap, sharing the frame bolt for the fuel filler neck ground. My headlight flickering BS is also fixed. So now the truck honks when I lock it and the headlights don't dim with the blinker. Curious to see if my SWR's are lower now. I still plan on running a ground wire from the battery negative terminal to the passenger side fender. know where I got that idea from.... Looked at the grounds on my '89 K5. It has a 10ga wire going from the neg post to the passenger fender along with the main wires to the block and frame.

Tell you one thing, so far since I've done my ground and wiring connection cleaning, my horn honking while locking is back to working!!! For the past 2yrs when double pressing the lock button to make the horn honk, it would 90% of the time not honk. Or you had to press the button a million times for it to finally honk. I think the grounds were affecting the horn on short honks like when locking. I have yet to have it not honk while locking since the ground cleaning.

Update. Today I found a frame ground on the driver side, behind the cab. It's a ground wire on a bed gusset. Wire runs from the frame up to the gas filler neck area. I took that one apart at the frame and cleaned the heck out of it also; removed the frame coating and sanded it up nicely. I made a 10ga wire that goes from that frame bolt to a bed mounting bolt about 6-8" away. Under the hood I made a 10ga wire up to go from the front of the driver side valve cover area to the LF fender by the fuse box. I plan on making one more and running it from the battery neg terminal to the RF fender. Calling it good.

Yesterday I decided to go through the electrical system on my truck being it's almost 4yrs old and has 75k on it. I cleaned up the battery terminals, took the positive battery distribution system apart, even took the hot wire off the alternator. Everything was cleaned, sanded with 320 sand paper, cleaned with electrical parts cleaner and put back together with dielectric grease. I'm glad I did this job because the stainless steel connections were starting to gall and it was extremely hard to remove the nuts. I was scared of snapping the stud off the alternator I used a pry bar to hold the wire lug in place while loosening the nut. I then followed the smaller ground wire from the battery to the passenger side chassis ground. Took it apart, clenaed the frame, wire bolt everything up. glad I did. the frame coating was in the way and hte wire connection was corroded pretty good. Again, everything was sanded, and cleaned with electrical parts cleaner and put back together with dielectric grease. Then wiped clean and sprayed with battery terminal protector spray. There is another ground wire on the driver side, behind the front wheel. Did the same thing to it. It also needed it. I checked the entire frame for more connections and could not see any. Now my High SWR readings from my CB antenna mounted in the middle of the roof make sense! There is literally no ground wires from the frame to the body anywhere except under the hood. By the brake booster there is a ground strap going from the fire wall to the block. I am going to add some ground wires, connecting the body to the frame. I'm thinking adding grounds from the frame to both the bed and box, right behind the cab, on both passenger and driver side. And adding a wire from the engine block to the firewall/fenders.

Came across this thread today. It's been unusually cold here in central Florida. It was 27F yesterday morning on my way to work. I've been hearing an odd creaking type noise from the front suspension since the cold weather showed up down here. And on the job site I hear it also. I did not know it was temp related. So this thread saved me the headache of chasing a noise down. It's the cold.

Bought Aug 2014. Currently at 75k. Running strong.

No, the issue I have is intermittent non-horn sound when locking. I can hit the button 100 times and no horn beep. Drive to work and hit the lock button twice and it beeps as it should.

This is the same issue I have bud!!! I had the dealer look at it and they could not find why it was doing this. It did the issue right there with the dealer folks. No problem replicating the issue.

Good point. there is a green and grey plug under the seat.... but why both seats?

Ok checked all fuses. cannot find a burned fuse. Neither driver or passenger seat heating works. I only have heated bucket seats in my LT. Weird how both seats just quit working.

have not checked yet. If the fuse is good, I'm not chasing it down. I'm done chasing down crap to fix on this truck. It's a part-time job. At least now I know the heated seats won't break because they're already broken. Made it this far in life without them. Add this to the list of items the Titan's 5yr 100k warranty would cover. At the end of my 5yrs/100k (I drive 20k/yr) I'll see what my spreadsheet shows. I track everything on my excel sheet when it comes to my trucks.

When locking the doors from my remote the horn intermittently works. This just had me think maybe one of the two horns went out.

Well it finally cooled off in FL this week. More than welcomed. It was int he 40's at 5am going to work and I kicked on the heated seat. 15 minutes later still no heat. No clicks either like it normally would do. So now I have to chase down why my seat heater doesn't work..... the fix list never ends on this truck. Just had the a/c condenser fixed.

Wow, years later my post is still going strong. I'm at 71k miles and my paint stick fix is holding up great!!! I put an Airaid MIT intake pipe on my truck last weekend (still running factory air box and K47 Wix Filter) and this week in the mother f'n stop'n go rush-our traffic was better. Driving our trucks in 105*F bumper to bumper traffic for 1-2hrs on the way home makes you feel like a wooly mammoth surrounded by swarms of lightning fast mosquitoes (corollas). Our trucks do not have the input response like these little happy meal cars that I have to deal with in Tampa. My wife's '15 Enclave is much more suited for that driving. It has perfect throttle response and the transmission programming is done so well I would buy a beer for the person who programmed it. Based on my 3yrs and 71k of driving my truck in heavy traffic my items that help combat slugging reactions have bee: -Transmission fluid. The 6spd loves fresh clean fluid. IMO, 45k service interval is max on this 6spd for my driving use. I even installed an external spin-on filter which has helped keep the fluid clean and the transmission in a ren and stimpy happy happy joy joy state. -Gas pedal shim. Hence this thread I started years ago. Coming from my E39 530i M-Sport and FBO E90 335i, the reactions on the truck were a learning curve. The shim is a must do. Best mod on my list. -Oil Catch can. -Airaid MIT pipe helped with throttle response. Only reason I bought it. Could care less about HP gains. -Cat-back exhaust helped out. -CLEANING THE THROTTLE BODY FREQUENTLY. this is a big one. I cannot believe the difference it makes. Clean both sides of the butterfly and wipe the throttle body down.

I have 71k on my truck now. Some days the pedal squeaks, other days it does not. Not terrible. My wife's '15 Enclave has 30k on it and the brake pedal does the same thing. Squeaks when you press on it. 2 for 2.

I replaced mine about 18 months into ownership. Mine broke last week again. I'll check the part # and what I paid last time, but IIRC it was like $25 for the part online. If it's more than $10 it's not getting replaced again. Not playing this $25 bushing every 18 months game. Nothing wrong my arms, i'll lower the gate. Part # 22966936 $26.80 is what I paid on 8/13/2016.

It says top-off only for LSD's. That means it probably does not have the FM. I say looks like a safe bet. Read the bottle again though....

68,500 mile update. Running great. Fluid is clean. IIRC, I'm on the 2nd filter. I think I'm going to be doing a filter every 3rd oil change. Which is about 14months for me.

I am running 75W-90 Full syn GL-5 gear oil with no friction modifier in the front and rear diffs. If you have a G80, make sure you have no FM!!! That BS about 75/85 is for CAFE. And thenin the front they run dino 80-90 for cost cutting.... just run a quality GL-5 FULL SYN 75/90 in both diffs.

Or we could load you up like a job site truck and you'll have 750Lbs in the bed constantly. Then hook up a trailer to it. That'll level you right on out.... Being seriously, the 4WD trucks have a better stance than the 2wd trucks. the 2 wheelers look nose low.

Your welcome. I cannot believe how many people have done this mod. I thought it was just me coming from BMW's and had a very different expectation for a pedal. Turns out is a crap design that my 4yr old daughter could of done in pre-school.

2014 with 66k miles. Bought it new in Aug of '14. Truck has been doing pretty well, but I do a lot of preventative maintenance. History of my truck's issues below. 1- When new I had a slew of recalls done (as we all did). Dealers were slammed and it was a PITA. I could only get them to do one recall per visit. Got passed that. 2- At 16k the RR axle seal let loose and I had gear oil flying around. Dealer fixed it. It's always had a seeping leak that comes back. Dealer refuses to fix it. I'm living with it for now... I know it's going to let go at some point. Betting there is a bur on the axle. I'm planning on doing this repair myself. 3- Battery lasted exactly 24 or 26 months. Hey it's FL. 4- Passenger bucket seat makes some racket when nobody is in it. I traced it down to just noise in the tracks. Solution is I put my computer bag in the front vs the rear. 5- Around 35k I took it in for engine oil leaks. Dealer did fix them all and they are still good. There is a VTec cover above the harmonic balance. Both mine and my co-workers were wet with oil and we work on job sites so the dust stuck to them. Very obvious leak on this plate. Dealer re-sealed mine. Bone dry today. Apparently They pulled my Tcase and transmission out. I had oil leaking from the bell housing. Which the dealer told me is a slightly popular issue on some 14's and the fix is remove the flywheel and put sealant on the crankshaft bolts. Not thrilled my new truck had to have the power-train removed at 35k. The dealer and tech did do a good job from what I saw. I did not rush them and i stopped by and saw my trans out and they showed me the flywheel bolts etc. The exhaust manifold bolts all snapped off. So when I got the truck back I removed the nuts on both y-pipe to manifolds and coated the crap out of them with anti-seize. 6- About three months ago my truck stopped honking the horn when locking it. I have a bad feeling one of the rear door lock actuators is on it's last leg. 7- Stock SRA's lasted 53k and I still had 5/32" on them but they were stupid dangerous in the rain. 8- The dash/Info system has re-set itself twice, early in it's life. I believe the dealer did some updates and I've been good for over 18 months. 9- Frame rust. Very ticked off how crappy the frame coating is. I did all my own frame rust repairs within a few months of owning the truck. 2yrs later no rust. I was wiping rust areas down with mineral spirirts to remove that wax crap and then would spray the frame with Rustoleum commercial flat black enamel. My repairs put the rest of the frame coating to shame. 10- I bought and installed the $8 AC compressor line bracket outlined in a TSB. No AC issues ever on my truck. 11- Coolant. Not sure why, but my truck's reservoir seems to loose coolant. Slowly. Maybe 1/4" low per oil change of 7k miles. I cannot find a coolant leak for the life of me. 12- I have the 3.42 gears and the 6spd trans. The transmission is very sluggish and slow to react in rush our traffic. I get run all over the farm being most people are driving snappy Lexus and Infinity cars. The only alternative is I have to hammer the gas and drive like an a-hole. More recently I've realized that putting it in M4 or M5 in rush our has fixed 95% of my transmission complaints. 13- Pretty sure the rear rotors are warped. Brake pad life is awesome... I still have at least 50% of my pads left. If not more. Pretty disappointed the rear rotors are warped with my relatively conservative braking. 14- Gas pedal Flex. I created the post 2+yrs ago about putting a paint stick behind the pedal assembly. Problem fixed. 15- My truck has a slight vibration, sometimes, at speeds over 77mph. I'm lucky it's not a bad one like some people. Mine is very Liv-able. I've changed all fluids and flushed the brake fluid out to DOT 4. My trucks fluids are very clean. I even did a coolant filter and external HD style Trans filter. And I did a ADD W1 catch can. Those 3 mods should of been done the day I brought the truck home! Overall I like the truck, especially the looks and interior. I don't think I would buy a 1st year production run again on something that is "all new". The new F150 has it's fair share of issues being such a new truck but I give Ford props for pushing the envelope with that truck from engines to the aluminum body. I've owned turbo supras and turbo BMW's.... always ends in a disaster. I wanted the 5.3L for simplicity sake. If I bought right now, it would be my exact truck, but would opt for the 6.2L and the Max trailer pkg. And since the refresh I now like the Sierra over the silverado. I like the Ford 3.5L Ecoboost on paper, but I'm not fond of the interior design or all the gadgets under the hood.

I can't believe this post is still going strong almost 3yrs later. Glad my fix is helping others.