Jump to content

bdbake01

Member
  • Content Count

    1,064
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

bdbake01 last won the day on January 29 2018

bdbake01 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

412 Excellent

About bdbake01

  • Rank
    Senior Enthusiast
  • Birthday 05/28/1976

Profile Information

  • Name
    Array
  • Location
    Array
  • Gender
    Array
  • Drives
    Array

Recent Profile Visitors

10,784 profile views
  1. Harbor Freight, cheap disposable tarp. Heck sometimes they’re free.
  2. I really don’t see why you couldn’t. You’re still gonna want to tie your brake booster back into a vacuum source. I tied mine into the low line off the manifold going to my catch can. Seems to work flawlessly. It’s not too difficult to remove though. And you don’t have to have the corvette block off kit. Just a couple of short bolts from the hardware store and some thread sealant.
  3. Highly suggest you pull codes. If it has misfires all over, eh, ok, I might believe bad gas. But if it’s one cylinder, need to stop driving and start digging.
  4. Could also easily be a valvespring. 14 and early 15s with 6.2s are prone to breaking exhaust springs. And sometimes when they go, you end up splitting the block in HALF. Ask me how I know!
  5. May wanna check those exhaust springs. Now. Trust me.
  6. Precisely what I did! I even went so far as to snake the intake out from under the intake cover, only took a second.
  7. Hood came off, that thing is stupid light. So light that is almost disorienting. I think the paint weighs more than the actual metal. Hoses were super easy. The wiring on the other hand, I'd give them a solid 7. Reason being that some are routed in impossibly hard places to get to. For instance, there's a harness that runs down each side of the block skirt and are attached witch christmas tree plugs to holes on the skirt right where the the oil pan bolts up. Which happens to be under the motor mounts. But you can't get to it from any angle, so I had to remove what I could, make some slack, lift the engine, THEN destroy the plugs and remove the wires (cause let's face it, they're hateful and of satan himself), and then reassemble in the same manner in reverse. Same for the stuff on the back of the intake/engine. Super hard to get to and remove. As for hoses, get a set of remote cable pliers made for removing those crazy strong spring clamps and you're golden.
  8. New motor is in and mostly bolted up. Need to tidy up some wires, put on exhaust, coolant hoses, etc. Getting there! Public service announcement. Hopefully you never have to, but if you do this, CHECK THE NEW FLEX PLATE. It didn’t fit my converter. Care to guess at which point I figured that out???
  9. Oh and if I ever find the POS that thought it’d be funny to attach every wire and tube to the back of the backside of the friggin motor with 300 Christmas tree clips and then mount the motor 0.003” from the firewall AND THEN shove 4” of heat reflective sound deadening material in there, we are gonna have words. Not nice ones.
  10. In that pic the weight was fully on the stand. Motor looks like it’s pointing downhill, but it’s not. Just camera angle.
  11. I think the long block is 485ish. But those accessories are chunky. Still, it’s no iron block.
  12. I want to. I really, really do. Even called TSP today. Four Stg 2s in stock...
  13. I’m actually way more concerned with the engine stand. I’ve never seen one, HF or otherwise, that I truly trusted. The hoist isn’t HF, but not really branded either. That thing’s been tested tho
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.