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About truckmann

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  1. Good to know. I'll do a better flush of the entire system when I have time. I got stainless braided hoses for the front, where you referring to something different than that? Also I want to say thank you for taking the time to address all the information in this thread with real data. GA9130 HH is on the pads and the more I have driven it the better it has gotten. I only drive the truck a couple days a week. It was definitely a worthwhile upgrade. Not that the OEM brakes for 2014 were terrible, but this feels like a nice improvement. I look forward to finding out how it does pulling my 25' - 4 place PWC trailer this summer. It's got surge brakes on it, but I think this will be an improvement.
  2. I reused the stock bolts and never even took the splash shield off. I'm not sure what size the washers are. I bought a bunch of different sizes from the hardware store but those all ended up being bigger OD washers than I wanted so I dug through my mess of extra nuts and bolts and found some that fit better. You only need 4 of them, 2 for each caliper.
  3. Here is what I ordered from Rock Auto and I got some Stop Tech SS brake lines number 950.66002 from ebay. The brake lines aren't really needed, but I figured since I was in there I may as well upgrade those too. The price of the brake pads was stupid, but they also came with a new pad life sensor which I didn't need. I'd bet you will be able to find pads cheaper before too long.
  4. I got the new brakes installed last weekend. Everything went as expected making it a pretty easy swap. My stock wheels would not have cleared if I didn't have the spacers. They were on my truck when I bought it and don't seem to be hurting anything so I've just left them. They do seem to have better stopping power than the old setup and the pad install on this type of caliper is super easy. The pedal feel is a little better, but not as firm as I hoped it would get to. I could probably use a better flush of the old fluid though. I may try to do that later on. I have a Motive pressure bleeder, but even using that the fluid was very slow to get pushed through the lines.
  5. No special brackets needed just some washers to center the calipers on the rotors. From what I've seen it doesn't look like there was much if any improvements made to the rears so no changes needed there.
  6. Factory wheels on a 2019 and 2020 start at 18" so yes as long as the wheel has enough spacing to fit the wider caliper they will fit.
  7. I don't think you understand the purpose of brake proportioning. All manufacturers use similar proportioning ratios for safety reasons. It would be really bad if you had the rear brakes locking up before the front ones. Most any changes from stock form (tire size, lift, level, etc.) make some changes to the braking bias. Sure there would be some braking performance gained from being able to adjust the proportioning valve, but unless you have access to the expensive testing equipment used by a major car company you will have no way to know how to properly set the valve and then you would run the risk of creating a much more dangerous braking bias thus doing more harm than good. I don't know where you are getting this is a $1000 upgrade or that it's a monster size upgrade. The biggest change here is going from 2 piston calipers to the new 4 piston calipers. I spent around $500 for all the parts including new SS braided brake lines and can probably sell my OEM brakes to help offset some of the cost. I did the K2XX upgrade on my old 2003 silverado and it was a nice improvement. Better than that was switching to Hydroboost. I can't say I really expect this change to make the truck stop shorter, but I'm expecting better pedal feel and less effort to get to maximum braking. In the end it all comes down to how good your tires are for the shortest stopping distance anyway and the last thing you want is the rear tires locking up before the front ones. Hopefully I'll have time to get it all installed soon. I didn't have time to get to it last weekend.
  8. I have parts coming in this week to do the swap so if all goes well I should know how it does soon.
  9. All things being equal that is incorrect. Bigger rotors put the clamping force farther out from the center line for better stopping torque on the wheel, so physics show that they do stop better. It's just like using a longer wrench to get more force to break a bolt loose. Compared to the K2 platform the rotors are a 1/2" larger in diameter resulting in a 2.3" pad contact surface width compared to 2.1". The inside rotor diameter looks to be 7.2" on the new rotors, but I can't find what it is on the K2 for comparison, but I'd guess they are smaller. Larger rotors also dissipate heat better which is another benefit.
  10. I got my Denali cluster back from @th3magpi3 and installed last weekend in my 2014. I had already done the 2.5 HMI upgrade with radio and usb port. So the cluster was the last piece to get it all upgraded. All functions that I tested that should work are working properly. Glad to have steering wheel controls working with Android Auto now. The cluster I got was from a 2017 Denali that I found on ebay for a decent price.
  11. I'd guess the clusters are pretty universal. They don't want to spend extra money for more cluster variations than they have to.
  12. From what I've seen I'm not sure the 6112s will ever actually be available.
  13. He's messing with you. 6112s aren't available. I put 5100s on and still have the RC spacer and a small top spacer. Left the 5100s on the lowest setting. I bought my truck with the spacers already on it and decided to leave them. It rides much better though.
  14. Another option would be to get the Bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks and add a half inch top spacer. If you have the factory Ranchos the Bilsteins are a big improvement.
  15. I'd guess it would be fine. You can buy the RC kit and a top spacer a lot cheaper than what they want for the Pro Comp kit though. My truck has the RC 2" level and a 0.5" spacer on top of the springs. I bought it that way and actually would have removed the top spacer when I replaced the shocks, but I didn't realize it wasn't a factory part at the time. It's only slightly higher in the front than the rear. I'm tempted to put a step bigger block in the rear now because I'm not a fan of the front being higher, but it's really not much higher so not a big deal.
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