Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

32 Good

About truckmann

  • Rank
  • Birthday 12/09/1977

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Gender
  • Drives

Recent Profile Visitors

2,437 profile views
  1. I don't know. Rock Auto looks to have them both available right now but there is a 2 day delay on the driver's side one. The stock has been in and out on them for a while.
  2. It can been done. All the info you need to know is here. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/213775-replacing-20-hmi-module-with-25-hmi-module-to-add-carplayandroid-auto-to-2014-2015-silverado/
  3. It can be done, but the wiring is not there and you will need a different module and some programming.
  4. I've seen that one. The issue for me is still being able to use the catch can since it uses those ports.
  5. I'll have to look into it closer. I have a Mighty Mouse catch can on it now.
  6. 18" will fit as far as being big enough diameter to clear the caliper. The 19/20's still have an 18" wheel option. Hydroboost is awesome. I did that conversion on my 2003 along with the bigger brakes from the 14-18 trucks. Honestly though I don't think I would bother with it on my 14 with how it feels now after upgrading to the 19+ front brakes. I have considered ditching the vacuum pump if there was a good place to tap into the engine vacuum. I have V4 mode tuned out so I think the engine vacuum would be sufficient from what I've read.
  7. It would be a guess but I would assume some grinding on the outer hump of the caliper or a spacer will be needed with most OEM wheels before 2019. The new calipers bolt right to the existing spindles. The existing hoses can be used, but I chose to upgrade to SS braided.
  8. Looks like it's good for either. That would be about the only thing I could think of. I guess I'll install it and see what happens. I noticed that a couple of the aftermarket companies sell the same compressor model for either trucks or Suburban/Tahoes so I suspect it will work fine.
  9. I can't seem to find a good link to share, but you can flip the plunger around in the thermostat which will keep it open and flowing through the cooler at all times. There are also a couple videos on youtube where they put a plug in the thermostat housing to achieve the same thing. I have a Tru-Cool cooler on my truck in place of the stock cooler in the condenser but I haven't done the thermostat mod so it still runs between 190-200. I doesn't ever get much over that though. I'm still debating on if I really want to do the mod. I'd probably do something like this vs the simple mod since it's more purpose built solution. A bit pricey for what it is though. https://globaltransmissionparts.com/6l80-6l90-sure-cool-cooler-flow-system-stl010/?gclid=CjwKCAiAhc7yBRAdEiwAplGxX2L5OSS2MvEEW0B4-QUuULdshQgkpI63xfGpZwVecFIf-XS6ulwlchoCsnEQAvD_BwE
  10. It does look nice with the fittings and brackets for a custom fit, but a Tru-Cool - Max LPD47391 and a trans thermostat mod is a lot cheaper if someone wants to get the same results for less.
  11. I believe that. There's more going on there than just rotor size though. They are 2 systems purposely built for different situations. Everyday street car brakes built to stop as short as possible but not very many times while a track focused car built to handle multiple heat cycles and continue to work. Initial grab and continued usage is more important than getting to 0 on a track car. Without trying to look it up I'd bet they have different pad material and possibly different rotor material. So not really an apples to apples comparison.
  12. The thing is I understand physics very well and yes it is about the heat conversion, but I think what you are missing is that keeping the same amount of clamping force and pad surface area (basically saying that all things are equal) a larger rotor will create a larger torque force to stop the rotation. Even the equation to calculate brake torque requires the radius of caliper. On top of that a larger rotor is also moving faster through the pads thus creating more heat friction. I could link to many articles that explain it and I don't think I can find a single one that would argue that larger rotors don't allow for a larger brake torque. Also even though the rotor is the main heat dissipating feature in the system that is not it's main mechanical function. The reason good heat dissipation is needed is to keep from overheating all the components of the system like not warping the rotors and boiling the brake fluid. Here's an article from an engineering company that says it very simplistically. http://www.wcengineering.com/articles/brakes.html and here's a white paper from a well know brake manufacturer with formulas. https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia/89aa6773-73d7-4f7f-b935-5e6bf2d28111/Centric_and_APC_Technical_Whitepaper_A1-The-Physics-of-Braking-Systems-8-2018_1.pdf As for this having any bearing on the upgrade to the 19/20 brakes it's probably not a big factor since the new rotors are not much bigger than the stock 14-18 rotors. The big improvement is with a more even clamping force from the 4 piston calipers and an increased pad contact area. Possibly a better pad friction material and difference in over all piston area too, but I can only speculate about that. I actually look forward to see what you have to say that could explain how rotor diameter has no effect on brake torque stopping power.
  13. Well I am 100% positive you are wrong but I guess no amount of logic or source material will prove that to you so I won't bother to try.
  14. He's not wrong at all. You are comparing 2 completely different types of breaking systems on a bicycle. That's like comparing apples to tomatoes. It's like comparing manual drum brakes to modern power disc brakes. The disc brakes take advantage of hydraulic power and better friction material so they can be smaller. The cantilever style are actuated by a cable and have lesser friction material which means they need to be on the outside diameter of the wheel to have a chance. Given 2 different disc brake systems on a bicycle with the only difference being rotor size the larger rotor will be better. https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/buyers-guide-to-mountain-bike-disc-brakes/ "Power varies with each caliper and its pad surface/leverage, but the biggest difference is rotor size. The bigger the rotor, the more leverage your brake has on the wheel and the faster it can stop it. Each 20mm increase in size roughly equates to a 13 to 15 percent increase in power."
  15. Yes. Direct replacement with the caveat of either wheel spacers or some grinding on the calipers for the OEM wheels to fit. So far I'm really happy I did it.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.