truckmann

Th3magpi3's website is called Coastal Flash. He's in Canada. The other option is GTPprix who is White Automotive & Media Services. He's in the US. I've dealt with both of them.

I'm assuming you can't see my picture so I just edited my original post to change how the image is attached. Let me know if that works for you.

I know this is kind of old, but I just added a Redarc to my 2014 and figured I'd share my control mounting location since I've not seen anyone else put it where I did and yes I know my truck is filthy right now.

Just wanted to say I'm glad I found this post. $36 shipped for a replacement lens is a great deal. Just ordered one for the Denali cluster I put in my 14 Silverado. My used cluster had some scuffs in it that really aren't too bad but for this price I'll go ahead and replace it. Just wanted to say I'm glad I found this post. $36 shipped for a replacement lens is a great deal. Just ordered one for the Denali cluster I put in my 14 Silverado. My used cluster had some scuffs in it that really aren't too bad but for this price I'll go ahead and replace it.

Pretty sure you will be fine either way. When I got my truck it already had a 2.5" RC lift in the front and stock block still in the rear. I replace the junk Ranchos with 5100s all the way around and added a MotoFab CH-2R 2" rear lift block because I didn't like that the rear was a little lower than the front. I've had no issues with how it drives with either rear block and it's been up to 130 mph with the rear lift blocks in.

Would you happen to have a picture of how you tied the booster into the system with a catch can? I'm guessing it's about as simple as using a tee in the line going into the catch can. Also did you need to install a check valve to keep the booster under vacuum or is there one already in it?

I ditched the built in navigation and don't miss it at all. Google maps is much better so I didn't see any point in having both.

I'll try to get to it when I have time.

I don't know. Rock Auto looks to have them both available right now but there is a 2 day delay on the driver's side one. The stock has been in and out on them for a while.

I've seen that one. The issue for me is still being able to use the catch can since it uses those ports.

I'll have to look into it closer. I have a Mighty Mouse catch can on it now.

18" will fit as far as being big enough diameter to clear the caliper. The 19/20's still have an 18" wheel option. Hydroboost is awesome. I did that conversion on my 2003 along with the bigger brakes from the 14-18 trucks. Honestly though I don't think I would bother with it on my 14 with how it feels now after upgrading to the 19+ front brakes. I have considered ditching the vacuum pump if there was a good place to tap into the engine vacuum. I have V4 mode tuned out so I think the engine vacuum would be sufficient from what I've read.

It would be a guess but I would assume some grinding on the outer hump of the caliper or a spacer will be needed with most OEM wheels before 2019. The new calipers bolt right to the existing spindles. The existing hoses can be used, but I chose to upgrade to SS braided.

I believe that. There's more going on there than just rotor size though. They are 2 systems purposely built for different situations. Everyday street car brakes built to stop as short as possible but not very many times while a track focused car built to handle multiple heat cycles and continue to work. Initial grab and continued usage is more important than getting to 0 on a track car. Without trying to look it up I'd bet they have different pad material and possibly different rotor material. So not really an apples to apples comparison.

The thing is I understand physics very well and yes it is about the heat conversion, but I think what you are missing is that keeping the same amount of clamping force and pad surface area (basically saying that all things are equal) a larger rotor will create a larger torque force to stop the rotation. Even the equation to calculate brake torque requires the radius of caliper. On top of that a larger rotor is also moving faster through the pads thus creating more heat friction. I could link to many articles that explain it and I don't think I can find a single one that would argue that larger rotors don't allow for a larger brake torque. Also even though the rotor is the main heat dissipating feature in the system that is not it's main mechanical function. The reason good heat dissipation is needed is to keep from overheating all the components of the system like not warping the rotors and boiling the brake fluid. Here's an article from an engineering company that says it very simplistically. http://www.wcengineering.com/articles/brakes.html and here's a white paper from a well know brake manufacturer with formulas. https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia/89aa6773-73d7-4f7f-b935-5e6bf2d28111/Centric_and_APC_Technical_Whitepaper_A1-The-Physics-of-Braking-Systems-8-2018_1.pdf As for this having any bearing on the upgrade to the 19/20 brakes it's probably not a big factor since the new rotors are not much bigger than the stock 14-18 rotors. The big improvement is with a more even clamping force from the 4 piston calipers and an increased pad contact area. Possibly a better pad friction material and difference in over all piston area too, but I can only speculate about that. I actually look forward to see what you have to say that could explain how rotor diameter has no effect on brake torque stopping power.

Well I am 100% positive you are wrong but I guess no amount of logic or source material will prove that to you so I won't bother to try.

He's not wrong at all. You are comparing 2 completely different types of breaking systems on a bicycle. That's like comparing apples to tomatoes. It's like comparing manual drum brakes to modern power disc brakes. The disc brakes take advantage of hydraulic power and better friction material so they can be smaller. The cantilever style are actuated by a cable and have lesser friction material which means they need to be on the outside diameter of the wheel to have a chance. Given 2 different disc brake systems on a bicycle with the only difference being rotor size the larger rotor will be better. https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/buyers-guide-to-mountain-bike-disc-brakes/ "Power varies with each caliper and its pad surface/leverage, but the biggest difference is rotor size. The bigger the rotor, the more leverage your brake has on the wheel and the faster it can stop it. Each 20mm increase in size roughly equates to a 13 to 15 percent increase in power."

Yes. Direct replacement with the caveat of either wheel spacers or some grinding on the calipers for the OEM wheels to fit. So far I'm really happy I did it.

Your 2014 cluster will work, but will need to be re-programmed for the volume and skip buttons to work with Android Auto. The buttons will function as normal with the radio and bluetooth music streaming.

I think it has more to do with being on a daily driver, very few people will ever use their brakes enough to gain the added benefit of the degassing and/or extra cooling compared to a track car.

Good to know. I'll do a better flush of the entire system when I have time. I got stainless braided hoses for the front, where you referring to something different than that? Also I want to say thank you for taking the time to address all the information in this thread with real data. GA9130 HH is on the pads and the more I have driven it the better it has gotten. I only drive the truck a couple days a week. It was definitely a worthwhile upgrade. Not that the OEM brakes for 2014 were terrible, but this feels like a nice improvement. I look forward to finding out how it does pulling my 25' - 4 place PWC trailer this summer. It's got surge brakes on it, but I think this will be an improvement.

I reused the stock bolts and never even took the splash shield off. I'm not sure what size the washers are. I bought a bunch of different sizes from the hardware store but those all ended up being bigger OD washers than I wanted so I dug through my mess of extra nuts and bolts and found some that fit better. You only need 4 of them, 2 for each caliper.

Here is what I ordered from Rock Auto and I got some Stop Tech SS brake lines number 950.66002 from ebay. The brake lines aren't really needed, but I figured since I was in there I may as well upgrade those too. The price of the brake pads was stupid, but they also came with a new pad life sensor which I didn't need. I'd bet you will be able to find pads cheaper before too long.

I got the new brakes installed last weekend. Everything went as expected making it a pretty easy swap. My stock wheels would not have cleared if I didn't have the spacers. They were on my truck when I bought it and don't seem to be hurting anything so I've just left them. They do seem to have better stopping power than the old setup and the pad install on this type of caliper is super easy. The pedal feel is a little better, but not as firm as I hoped it would get to. I could probably use a better flush of the old fluid though. I may try to do that later on. I have a Motive pressure bleeder, but even using that the fluid was very slow to get pushed through the lines.

No special brackets needed just some washers to center the calipers on the rotors. From what I've seen it doesn't look like there was much if any improvements made to the rears so no changes needed there.