truckmann

I don't think you understand the purpose of brake proportioning. All manufacturers use similar proportioning ratios for safety reasons. It would be really bad if you had the rear brakes locking up before the front ones. Most any changes from stock form (tire size, lift, level, etc.) make some changes to the braking bias. Sure there would be some braking performance gained from being able to adjust the proportioning valve, but unless you have access to the expensive testing equipment used by a major car company you will have no way to know how to properly set the valve and then you would run the risk of creating a much more dangerous braking bias thus doing more harm than good. I don't know where you are getting this is a $1000 upgrade or that it's a monster size upgrade. The biggest change here is going from 2 piston calipers to the new 4 piston calipers. I spent around $500 for all the parts including new SS braided brake lines and can probably sell my OEM brakes to help offset some of the cost. I did the K2XX upgrade on my old 2003 silverado and it was a nice improvement. Better than that was switching to Hydroboost. I can't say I really expect this change to make the truck stop shorter, but I'm expecting better pedal feel and less effort to get to maximum braking. In the end it all comes down to how good your tires are for the shortest stopping distance anyway and the last thing you want is the rear tires locking up before the front ones. Hopefully I'll have time to get it all installed soon. I didn't have time to get to it last weekend.

I have parts coming in this week to do the swap so if all goes well I should know how it does soon.

All things being equal that is incorrect. Bigger rotors put the clamping force farther out from the center line for better stopping torque on the wheel, so physics show that they do stop better. It's just like using a longer wrench to get more force to break a bolt loose. Compared to the K2 platform the rotors are a 1/2" larger in diameter resulting in a 2.3" pad contact surface width compared to 2.1". The inside rotor diameter looks to be 7.2" on the new rotors, but I can't find what it is on the K2 for comparison, but I'd guess they are smaller. Larger rotors also dissipate heat better which is another benefit.

I got my Denali cluster back from @th3magpi3 and installed last weekend in my 2014. I had already done the 2.5 HMI upgrade with radio and usb port. So the cluster was the last piece to get it all upgraded. All functions that I tested that should work are working properly. Glad to have steering wheel controls working with Android Auto now. The cluster I got was from a 2017 Denali that I found on ebay for a decent price.

I'd guess the clusters are pretty universal. They don't want to spend extra money for more cluster variations than they have to.

From what I've seen I'm not sure the 6112s will ever actually be available.

He's messing with you. 6112s aren't available. I put 5100s on and still have the RC spacer and a small top spacer. Left the 5100s on the lowest setting. I bought my truck with the spacers already on it and decided to leave them. It rides much better though.

I don't have any experience with the black shocks since I had the stock Ranchos. The 5100s are night and day better than those. The Ranchos were so bad it actually felt unsafe to drive at times on highway curves. My truck does have 145,000 miles on it, so that may also be a factor, but I saw no signs that the stock shocks were leaking or otherwise bad.

The 5100s will help a bunch. I hated how mine felt like it would hop over bumps in the road. It doesn't do that anymore and feels like it stays planted much better without the jarring bumps. It also feels more stable in turns.

So far the only thing I miss when dropping the factory nav is not being able to see speed limits on the DIC anymore. It's minor just something to note. If I can find a good deal on a 2.5 HMI with factory nav I may upgrade. Oklahoma is terrible at putting speed limit signs up so it was handy to have it available in the DIC.

If you are seeing that S/DShockingBIL5100 part number for $297 I'm not really sure what that is, but it's not what you need. It doesn't have any part numbers for the shocks and the fitment list doesn't make sense. It looks like some kind of universal kit for lifted trucks and I bet it's 4 of the same shock. I don't see a package deal for $360 but if I put the correct front and rear shocks in the cart and use the 5% off code it comes out to $356.60 then there is $32 in sales tax of where I live making the shipped total $388.69 I can get them on Amazon for $358.32 right now. Someone mentioned AJUSA earlier and they are $334.79 shipped with a 2% off code. Doesn't look like they will add on tax.

I got my HMI and radio modules back from @th3magpi3 last week and installed on Friday. Everything is working as expected and it ended up being much cheaper than any other option I could find.

Same here. Did mine in the driveway with jack stands. Used a cheap spring compressor to move springs over. I had to unbolt my top ball joint too since my truck already had the RC spacer on it. It was really pretty easy though.

No experience with that, but I'd guess it will work fine. Quite a bit more expensive than an LC2i or even an LC7i though.

I already had one that I bought a few years ago like this. http://a.co/d/iDAVVvo The install is complicated a little bit by already having the RC spacer since (if they are installed correctly) the nuts are on the bottom, which means the front axle is in the way to remove the rear bolt. I had to unhook the top ball joint and the steering linkage to be able to get that bolt out. Still wasn't very difficult though just a few extra nuts to remove.

I don't know what's best, but I just put my front 5100s on last night. My truck already had the RC spacers so I left the 5100s at the stock setting and re-used the spacers. I also found I have what looks to be a 1/2" strut spacer on top which I didn't realize wasn't a factory piece until after I put it back together. I haven't measured it, but it's close to level or sometimes looks like the front might be slightly higher than the rear. I actually might have left the top spacer out if I realized it wasn't stock at the time, but it looks fine so I'm just going to leave it for now. I only took it on a short test drive after I got done so far, but it seemed to ride much nicer than the old Ranchos that I took off.

They discontinued the HD radio sometime in 2015. 2014s and early 2015s still had HD radio. I read it was due to reception issues. Then it came back in 2016.

Went ahead and ordered my front shocks today. Ebay has a 15% off anything code. I ordered from this seller because they didn't charge me tax and shipping is free so my total was $163.17 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bilstein-24-238304-5100-Ride-Height-Adjustable-Shock-Absorber/221879155060?epid=217725717&hash=item33a9073974:g:qGEAAOSw2PtasubL&vxp=mtr

I've been wondering the same thing. I currently have the RC spacer with the stock shocks and plan to do the fronts sometime soon. Debating if I should keep the spacer with the 5100s or not. I already replaced the rears.

I just did the same comparison and Amazon is still $24 cheaper on a pair after tax for me. I would have to pay tax from either place here in OK. Tax was more for 4Wheelparts because there is a store in state. Really I was more making fun of their everyday low price statement when I can find them cheaper at other places. As for getting bad stuff from Amazon, I've never had an issue and if I did get something messed up it's easy to send it back.

Funny how 4wheelparts everyday low price is still $13.50 higher than Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T367RUS/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2TW9PAD7D7YND I did the rear 5100's already and the fronts are on my list. Truck already has the RC spacers so I'm in debate on keeping them or not myself.

Mind if I ask what he charges to do this? I have a 2.5 HMI (non nav) and the usb port now and looking for a deal on the radio module. Just wondering what programming is going to cost me.

Yep. Makes sense. I didn't know you could connect the HMI to wifi. I just figured it was getting all its data from the onstar module. Cool that it work like that. I don't care that much about having wifi from onstar since I can just use my phone as a hotspot.

I don't know for sure, just going on what info I can find that seems to make sense. Are you sure the Wifi actually works in your 14 and not just shows the option on the screen? Maybe it was a late production model that got the 2015 module. Here's what I'm basing my thoughts on. This is a 2014 Onstar/Bluetooth module. and here is a 2015 Module

After some looking, the Wifi requires a different Bluetooth/wifi module that came out in 2015. It's separate from the HMI and radio. So I would bet you still have the 2.0 HMI and it just has the right software version to talk to the wifi module. Since I have a 2014 I'm pretty sure I would would have to upgrade my Bluetooth module to a newer one that has wifi if I wanted to make it work. Looks to be part number 23261702.