voyager1500

I am having the same issue with the Height10 IOB with factory back up camera, I installed the way instructions said and used that Rv1 module in the harness That is supposed to correct that and it still doesnt work. Did you have any luck getting this resolved ? THanks I am having the same issue with the Height10 IOB with factory back up camera, I installed the way instructions said and used that Rv1 module in the harness That is supposed to correct that and it still doesnt work. Did you have any luck getting this resolved ? THanks

Ive been looking for the same thing. I saw a company Deberti ? has billet tow hooks that fit earlier trucks through the 20's. so made me think why that kit from rough country for the 19 plus trucks wouldnt fit ours ? Hopfully someone has something for these trucks.

I found a video that explained it a little better. So the traditional isolators will work, but work better on pre 08 vehicles without the smart alternators. The DC DC battery charger is used on newer vehicles because it allows the second battery to get 100% charge. THe charger will also have the isolation feature that will prevent the main batttery from draining when vehicle is not running. The conventional isolator will not allow 100% charge and you will have less resere power than expected with whatever battery you choose. Of course the dc dc set up is like 4 xs the cost of the old school isolators. but guess it's the right way to go when your spending $500 plus on batteries. Me and my dumb ideas... CHeck out this video, a bit long, but goes into detail on all these technologies and systems.

Saw it in several spots. something to do with the way the smart alternator varies voltage would not excite the charging ckt and the second battery would not get charged . Thus requiring a special smart relay that could sense the voltage variations and also have an exciter ckt to make the smart alternator s charging ckt activate to provide enough voltage to charge both batteries. Then somewhere else I read that you needed a dc to dc battery charger in addition to ensure that the second battery received 100% charge. all while isolating the two so that the main battery would always be charged and protected from draining.

Hi, I have a 2017 silverado 1500. I would like to set up a dual battery system, but i'm getting bogged down with all the info and technology on these new electronic systems. Apparently you cannot use a traditional dual battery isolator on the new trucks with the smart alternators. So I found numerous versions, but they all have widely varying descriptions so i'm finding myself spinning around and unsure of what I actually need. there are smart isolators, but there are also dc to dc battery chargers for use in dual battery set ups. what do I need ? do i need both the smart isolator and a battery charger ? or just one or the other ? ugh... I just installed a yellow top optima as my primary, and will add a smaller yellow top for the auxillary. the brands I have found include: Redarc, Victron, smart gate, keyline, etc. THe prices are all over the place. I m certainly in no position to spend a thousand dollars to do this, so hoping i'm just confused with what I need and there is a simple resolution. End result i'm looking for....... dual batteries, isolating main from aux so that I can protect starting battery , while using aux to power accessories, then my alternator charges both while driving. sounds simple right ? TIA I also found a blue sea systems ACR unit that sounds like it fits the bill, but again, confused as if that is all i need, or ?????

I did the superlift 4" kit which is essentially a leveling kit, but also requires lifting rear to get the level. it used strut spacers up front , upper control arms, and rear lift blocks. I went with the bilstien rear shock option. I am exttremely happy with the performance of the kit. The truck rides better, more controlled, yet smoother on road. I was going to do the RC kit originally, but I really wanted to replace the control arms due to the weak stamped steel factory ones that came on my truck. so the superlift kit offered that option for me. I went with 33" tires, BF g's at's, ride nice and quiet and smooth, although alittle too quiet. But the truck handles better than stock.

I guess the wheel wells are for cosmetic purposes ? Rock lights are just that ROCK LIGHTS. They are supposed to light up the ground so you can see the terrain at night when off road. I am actually in the process of installing them on my silverado . I have 8 lights. I got the new Rough country ones because of the way they are designed, plus I know they make some good stuff. I am mounting one in front of each front wheel , behind bumper, one behind each front wheel, one in front of each rear wheel, and one behind each rear wheel. This way I can see whether i'm going in reverse or forward over obstacles, etc when the head lights are not illuminating the ground where I need to see. These Rough COuntry ones are really nice. The wire harness is completly plug and play, even with a relay and switch. all the connectors for the lights have quick connectors that are threaded , and seal with o rings. Very nicely done. THey are flat with round 3 LED flood lights in them. only come in clear, which is what I wanted. THey even have rubber mounting pads that allow either flat mount or curved mount, like if you were installing behind a rock rail or something like that. My purpose like I said is to see what lurks in the dark. I was thinking of maybe finding a way to hook up so that I can either switch the on when I need them, or have them also come on when the door opens, like a serious courtesy light. Here is the link to the lights that I got. https://www.roughcountry.com/led-rock-lights-70980.html?rrec=true

Try number 2...... The Derale oil cooler adapter does not fit truck blocks. the spacing for the mounting bolts is too narrow. upon more research I found that Earls has an adapter that is specifically for the trucks and corvettes ? it has the correct spacing, but also requires a spacer for the trucks. Gen V LT motors. 1126 and then the spacer is 1127. So I will get those parts and try this again. 3rd times the charm so they say.

WOW !!!! Those look awsome. Thank you

Thank you, I think this is what i am looking for, found online with more details so I will check and make sure it looks like the right kit and contact seller. THank you

Hi, Thank you for that info. I looked up online and it is saying that it doesnt fit the 2017's ? Do you by chance have any pics of the plates ? Did you install these on your 18 ? should be the same then ? Thanks

Has anyone found any nice skid plates for the front of their trucks that replaces the OEM plastic splash pan. I found a few but they are all designed for use with certain lift kits. Im looking for more of a stock type application. Thank you

So, I got the 20mm fittings, and they DO NOT fit the 2017 radiator. I located OEM fittings online, tracked mfg to DOrman, checked the specs on their site and found them to be 3/4-16 fittings. Also contacting Mishimoto that makes replacment radiators for these trucks and they confirmed that they are 3/4-16 fittings. So not sure how some people were using the 20mm fittings, but guessing they made a change at some point and the newer ones run the SAE fittings. Anyhow... This weekend I will pull apart again and try to get the AN lines installed to replace the OEM oil cooler lines. If this works out good, I can then add a nice Mishimoto AN type oil cooler externally down the road to aid in cooling during warmer months pulling camper or slow off roading.

Has anyone done the AN line conversion on these trucks yet ? if so , any recomendations on what fittings to use ? Hose lengths ? I found that Derale makes the block adapter that fits the 5.3 in the trucks, it has the in and out ports with 10An fittings, so then 10an hose from there up to the radiator. From what I can see online the fittings in radiator are metric 20mm x 1.5 ? Can anyone confirm this ? Thank you