voyager1500

I am having the same issue with the Height10 IOB with factory back up camera, I installed the way instructions said and used that Rv1 module in the harness That is supposed to correct that and it still doesnt work. Did you have any luck getting this resolved ? THanks I am having the same issue with the Height10 IOB with factory back up camera, I installed the way instructions said and used that Rv1 module in the harness That is supposed to correct that and it still doesnt work. Did you have any luck getting this resolved ? THanks

Ive been looking for the same thing. I saw a company Deberti ? has billet tow hooks that fit earlier trucks through the 20's. so made me think why that kit from rough country for the 19 plus trucks wouldnt fit ours ? Hopfully someone has something for these trucks.

I found a video that explained it a little better. So the traditional isolators will work, but work better on pre 08 vehicles without the smart alternators. The DC DC battery charger is used on newer vehicles because it allows the second battery to get 100% charge. THe charger will also have the isolation feature that will prevent the main batttery from draining when vehicle is not running. The conventional isolator will not allow 100% charge and you will have less resere power than expected with whatever battery you choose. Of course the dc dc set up is like 4 xs the cost of the old school isolators. but guess it's the right way to go when your spending $500 plus on batteries. Me and my dumb ideas... CHeck out this video, a bit long, but goes into detail on all these technologies and systems.

Saw it in several spots. something to do with the way the smart alternator varies voltage would not excite the charging ckt and the second battery would not get charged . Thus requiring a special smart relay that could sense the voltage variations and also have an exciter ckt to make the smart alternator s charging ckt activate to provide enough voltage to charge both batteries. Then somewhere else I read that you needed a dc to dc battery charger in addition to ensure that the second battery received 100% charge. all while isolating the two so that the main battery would always be charged and protected from draining.

Hi, I have a 2017 silverado 1500. I would like to set up a dual battery system, but i'm getting bogged down with all the info and technology on these new electronic systems. Apparently you cannot use a traditional dual battery isolator on the new trucks with the smart alternators. So I found numerous versions, but they all have widely varying descriptions so i'm finding myself spinning around and unsure of what I actually need. there are smart isolators, but there are also dc to dc battery chargers for use in dual battery set ups. what do I need ? do i need both the smart isolator and a battery charger ? or just one or the other ? ugh... I just installed a yellow top optima as my primary, and will add a smaller yellow top for the auxillary. the brands I have found include: Redarc, Victron, smart gate, keyline, etc. THe prices are all over the place. I m certainly in no position to spend a thousand dollars to do this, so hoping i'm just confused with what I need and there is a simple resolution. End result i'm looking for....... dual batteries, isolating main from aux so that I can protect starting battery , while using aux to power accessories, then my alternator charges both while driving. sounds simple right ? TIA I also found a blue sea systems ACR unit that sounds like it fits the bill, but again, confused as if that is all i need, or ?????

I did the superlift 4" kit which is essentially a leveling kit, but also requires lifting rear to get the level. it used strut spacers up front , upper control arms, and rear lift blocks. I went with the bilstien rear shock option. I am exttremely happy with the performance of the kit. The truck rides better, more controlled, yet smoother on road. I was going to do the RC kit originally, but I really wanted to replace the control arms due to the weak stamped steel factory ones that came on my truck. so the superlift kit offered that option for me. I went with 33" tires, BF g's at's, ride nice and quiet and smooth, although alittle too quiet. But the truck handles better than stock.

I guess the wheel wells are for cosmetic purposes ? Rock lights are just that ROCK LIGHTS. They are supposed to light up the ground so you can see the terrain at night when off road. I am actually in the process of installing them on my silverado . I have 8 lights. I got the new Rough country ones because of the way they are designed, plus I know they make some good stuff. I am mounting one in front of each front wheel , behind bumper, one behind each front wheel, one in front of each rear wheel, and one behind each rear wheel. This way I can see whether i'm going in reverse or forward over obstacles, etc when the head lights are not illuminating the ground where I need to see. These Rough COuntry ones are really nice. The wire harness is completly plug and play, even with a relay and switch. all the connectors for the lights have quick connectors that are threaded , and seal with o rings. Very nicely done. THey are flat with round 3 LED flood lights in them. only come in clear, which is what I wanted. THey even have rubber mounting pads that allow either flat mount or curved mount, like if you were installing behind a rock rail or something like that. My purpose like I said is to see what lurks in the dark. I was thinking of maybe finding a way to hook up so that I can either switch the on when I need them, or have them also come on when the door opens, like a serious courtesy light. Here is the link to the lights that I got. https://www.roughcountry.com/led-rock-lights-70980.html?rrec=true

Try number 2...... The Derale oil cooler adapter does not fit truck blocks. the spacing for the mounting bolts is too narrow. upon more research I found that Earls has an adapter that is specifically for the trucks and corvettes ? it has the correct spacing, but also requires a spacer for the trucks. Gen V LT motors. 1126 and then the spacer is 1127. So I will get those parts and try this again. 3rd times the charm so they say.

WOW !!!! Those look awsome. Thank you

Thank you, I think this is what i am looking for, found online with more details so I will check and make sure it looks like the right kit and contact seller. THank you

Hi, Thank you for that info. I looked up online and it is saying that it doesnt fit the 2017's ? Do you by chance have any pics of the plates ? Did you install these on your 18 ? should be the same then ? Thanks

Thanks for all the feedback. I looked up AEV and they do not have one for that truck, no silverados at all. I guess it would be a funky set up since the intake is all the way at the front of the fender, run all the way to back of fender and then up. I Guess that would be some pretty deep fording to get up to that intake as it is up at top of fender. Maybe be better to just put more lift in it ?

So here is a mock up of the plano box idea. it just makes it length wise. Will need to make a platform to attach everything too and mounts for the gauge and connectors. Need 90 degree elbows for the ends of the tank for the air lines and regulator. Then create a wire harness or plug system so that I can connect either directly to battery, or via a 12v power port in bed or under hood, or both. I dont know ? what do you think ? this would make it portable from vehicle to vehicle rather than permanently mounted on one.

Has anyone come accross snorkle kits for the silverado's ? iv'e seen tons for the toyotas, and even for the colorado, but nothing for the silverado's . Not planning on doing any deep river crossings on purpose, but want to cover all the bases for exploring and protecting the vitals as best I can. What other options might there be ? suggestions ? Thank you

Since it's a standard 6'6" box I was looking to mount somewhere else, dont want to loose the space in bed, between the tank and compressor, it will take up some valuable real estate in there. I really wanted to do underneath the truck, but not finding a happy place that the tank will fit. The only option I have been able to come up with would require purchasing two smaller 1 gallon tanks that I could tuck up under the bed and then just join the two together via an air line. There is not enough space above the spare tire due to the module and wiring that is jammed under there unless the tank was smaller. at that point might as well not bother stuffing one 1 gallon tank up there since those will fit other spots easier. Another idea I was thinking which is not ideal, but what about mounting all the components into a box, like a plano sportsmans trunk or the like, and just mount up on roof rack, will look un clean, but it will essentially just be a box on the rack, but then I can run wire to battery or some sort of quick connect when I need to use it ? This might also make it so that I can take in other vehicles when needed, so might actually be a workable idea ?

Has anyone found any nice skid plates for the front of their trucks that replaces the OEM plastic splash pan. I found a few but they are all designed for use with certain lift kits. Im looking for more of a stock type application. Thank you

I am looking at adding traction bars to my truck. The rough country units look pretty nice and simple. Has anyone used these or another type with good results ? Any feed back would be appreciated. Thank you

So, I got the 20mm fittings, and they DO NOT fit the 2017 radiator. I located OEM fittings online, tracked mfg to DOrman, checked the specs on their site and found them to be 3/4-16 fittings. Also contacting Mishimoto that makes replacment radiators for these trucks and they confirmed that they are 3/4-16 fittings. So not sure how some people were using the 20mm fittings, but guessing they made a change at some point and the newer ones run the SAE fittings. Anyhow... This weekend I will pull apart again and try to get the AN lines installed to replace the OEM oil cooler lines. If this works out good, I can then add a nice Mishimoto AN type oil cooler externally down the road to aid in cooling during warmer months pulling camper or slow off roading.

Has anyone done the AN line conversion on these trucks yet ? if so , any recomendations on what fittings to use ? Hose lengths ? I found that Derale makes the block adapter that fits the 5.3 in the trucks, it has the in and out ports with 10An fittings, so then 10an hose from there up to the radiator. From what I can see online the fittings in radiator are metric 20mm x 1.5 ? Can anyone confirm this ? Thank you

Hello. Wondering if anyone has installed one of these systems on the silverado and if so where did they mount the tank. The compressor is small enough , the the tank that came with the Viar kit 2.5 gallon is just too long to fit anywhere safely. It does almost fit under the passenger door, but it will hang down too low for my liking. The only option i see is to purchase two 1 gallon tanks that I can stick up under the bed sides out of the way, but I will reduce the capacity and have more plumbing floating around under there. Just wondering if any one has done it and how they did it. Thank you

Anyone have any recomendations on brands for the spacers ? I have seen stuff on you tube of catastopic failures with the noname brand spacers. I was thinking of the rough country 2" spacers. Maybe finding a little wider, not sure untill i get the flares on. I plan to run the warn 4 x flares with stock wheels, so need to push them out a bit so they fill the wheel wells better, without they will look lost. I do like the stock wheels, so didnt want to give them up.

Dealer told me that it wasnt under warranty cause its external, not part of drivetrain warranty. I have about 30k on mine. I am going to replace them with AN lines and fittings rather than this problematic setup from GM. Then if it leaks again, I can simply replace the hose without fighting in tight spaces to get to the bypass at the filter. Very poor customer service on both the dealer and factory sides.