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About gone_fishing

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  1. I have always followed the OLM down to around 5% or so. This is where you usually get the "change oil soon" message. Usually comes out to around 7,300 miles. I have primarily used Mobil 1 in 0W-20 AFE but also 0W-20 EP, 0W-30 AFE and standard 5W-30. I have had a few UOA's done from Blackstone and have never seen any issues.
  2. The lower coolant temps were fine during the summer but I had concerns about running that low during the winter. As it started to cool down this fall I was seeing 170ish temps when cruising. Wasn't sure how low it would go so I decided to replace the t-stat the same time I did a coolant drain.
  3. What you see is similar to what I have noticed when comparing the dash gauge to what my ScanGauge reads. I think the dash gauge is programmed to have the needle at the 12:00 position withing a certain temp range. Seems like once you hit 180ish the needle is at the 12:00 position. Basically anything between 180 and 210 the needle shows the same. I have noticed the voltage display is pretty accurate and matches the ScanGauge reading. Can't compare oil as I haven't been able to read that with my ScanGauge. Side note: Over the last year or so I was noticing coolant was rarely getting above 185F on my ScanGauge. If I was towing in 5th gear then I would get up higher but regular cruising I was always a little lower. Decided to replace the thermostat and now I'm back up around 202-204.
  4. Good to see another ND member on here! Thank you for the feedback and please keep us up to date. Curious to see what kind of fuel economy you see on a longer highway trip unloaded. Do you ever run to Fargo from Bismarck? I usually manage 17 MPG on my Sierra on interstate going 75 MPH (with no wind...which of course is rare in ND).
  5. My Sierra makes the same noise when accelerating in Auto or 4HI. I think it's just transfer case noise and is considered normal.
  6. Interested in this product. I already have DiabloSport i2 with their canned 87 octane tune installed with throttle boost at max. 1. Can it be used on a L83 5.3L? 2. If yes would it require a custom tune? 3. If not would their be issues with my canned DiabloSport tune? Thanks
  7. I have 152,000 miles on my 14 Sierra and haven't had any major drivetrain issues (purchased new in Oct 13). Transmission shifts like it did when it was new. I have done a few drain/fills of the transmission fluid by extracting through dipstick. Did the filter around 130k. Valvline MaxLife ATF has been my fluid of choice. Around 90k, I purchased a DiabloSport inTune i2 and installed their TCM and engine tune and turned AFM off. Most of my issues with the 6 speed aren't mechanical but in the factory computer tuning. The combination of torque management, heavy throttle/numb throttle, and the transmission wanting to be in overdrive ASAP make for a somewhat dismal driving experience. The transmission has been reliable but I think GM could have done a lot better job with the programming. The tune did help some with this but I think it still could be better. Overall the truck has been good. Still have a light vibration around 75 MPH which is my biggest complaint. For anyone that is interested in purchasing a K2 series truck the first thing I would do would be to get it on the freeway and see if it vibrates at high speed.
  8. It's hard to say if you get much of a softer ride with the 4600's over the OEM shocks. I think they are better over large bumps when at slower speeds and have better handling but on the highway I think they are pretty similar to the OEM. I really didn't notice much difference in this area. Small bumps like tar strips on the road still transfer into the cab.
  9. I too had a leaky rear shock that needed to be replaced. Originals were OEM Ranchos and I replaced with Bilstein 4600 series. I felt they were about the same from a ride perspective but had a little better control over bumps. Eventually I replaced the fronts with 5100 series set to the 2nd highest setting. Again highway smoothness was about the same but MUHC better control over low speed bumps. The first time I went over a speed bump in a parking lot I literally laughed out load. I couldn't believe how much better they were. The OEM shocks would about launch you out of the seat compared to the Bilsteins.
  10. I'm at 50k on the P275/60R20 Falken Wildpeak AT3W on my Sierra. They have been wearing nicely and evenly. Should get another 10k out of them without issues.
  11. Do you know if the premium fuel was ethanol free? In my area, premium (91 octane) gas is available with ethanol (E10) or without (E0). Just depends on the station. E10 91 octane is generally less expensive then E0. Seems like E0 will usually gain you a little fuel economy. I believe that is because it has more energy (BTU's). Adding ethanol reduces it's energy content but is also cheaper. Hard to say if it pencils out. I'm far from a tuning expert but do monitor timing advance and knock retard with a ScanGauge device. From what I have learned watching these numbers is the computer always seems to want to maximize timing advance as much as possible. If it picks up a few degrees of KR, it backs off timing advance (as it should). From a fuel economy stand point, I imagine the engine is more efficient when the timing is advanced? Even when cruising with a light load (flat road, no wind, not towing) a slight increase in load (incline of a bridge or overpass) can sometimes cause a little KR. Seems like the computer is always trying to push the limit a little. Read somewhere that is does "learn" where it can operate. I wonder if a 6.2 can "learn" to run on 87?
  12. I hit the engine bay with a pressure washer at least once a year on my Sierra and have never experienced a problem. I try not to get to close to anything electrical.
  13. Anyone have experience with Interstates AGM 94R? https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/mtx-94r/h7?search=true Thinking I might be due to replace the factory battery in my Sierra soon (after almost 6 years and 153,000 miles). I'm really not interested in purchasing one online. Would rather purchase locally so if I have to warranty it I can bring it back in. No Pep Boys around me but there is an Interstate store.
  14. Mobil 1 has been by go to mainly due to price. Combine Walmart rollback price (usually $22.88 plus tax for a 5 quart jug) plus the rebate Mobil offers for $12 off a 5 qt jug makes for a pretty good deal. There is a rebate going on right now till Sept 30: https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mobil-promotions/mobil-1-rebate-2019 Walmart is never on the approved vendor list but I have submitted at least 6 rebates over the last few years and never been denied. The consensus over at BITOG is that Mobil will accept Walmart receipts.
  15. I have been using Valvoline MaxLife ATF in my Sierra. I have been using a suction pump with a hose down the dipstick tube to extract the fluid. I can usually get between 3-4 quarts. I'll do this 3 times usually a week apart. I did the first one around 60,000 miles. Did it again around 100,000 then did a pan drop and new filter around 130,000. Now at 153,000 with no transmission issues. Plan to do another 3x drain/fill this fall.
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