gone_fishing

Just realized I posted in the Drivetrain sub-forum. Mods please feel free to move.

I apologize if this has been discussed already (checked and didn't see anything). GMC has finally updated their website for the 2022 1500's. If you scroll down, there is a section labeled "First class interiors" with pictures showing the dashes. You can click left and right to see the different trim levels. Something that jumped out at me was the placement of the two center air vents. On the higher trim levels, they are placed above the center screen in a horizontal fashion. On the SLT and Elevation, they are placed on either side of the screen in more of a vertical layout. There are some other differences such as the start/stop button, radio volume knob, and center console. This is the first time I have seen this as all the updated interior shots I have seen so far were of the higher trim levels (Denalli, AT4 etc). Hopefully local dealers will start getting them soon so I can see in person.

About every 30k. Pull about 3 to 3.5 quarts through the dipstick with a hand pump. Will do this 3 times with some driving in between each pull. Dropped the pan and changed the filter around 130k.

I have been using Valvoline MaxLife ATF since my first change around 60k and I'm at 165k. Transmission still shifts great. It's usually available at Walmart for around $18 a gallon.

The only time I really notice the voltage gauge approaching 12V is when it's warm outside. I believe the computer also factors ambient temp into how much or little voltage is applied by the alternator. If you look at any charts for charging lead acid batteries, as temp goes down, voltage goes up. In the winter time I rarely seem anything lower then about 13.5 volts.

I have ran both Fram's XG10575 (Ultra Guard) and Mobil's M1-212A. Tore them apart after running and both were well constructed.

Still check in every now and then but just not posting that much anymore. Had a work provided vehicle for a couple years and wasn't driving the Sierra all that much. Changed jobs recently and I'm back to driving the Sierra daily. It's still running well but probably getting close to needing new brakes (on the original pads and rotors still). Has developed a noticeable pulse so I assume the rotors are warped. Other than needing a good cleaning, it's sill a solid vehicle.

I'm at 163,000 miles on my 14 Sierra. Been doing drain/fills about every 30k since around 60k. Been using Valvoline MaxLife ATF. I use a hand pump with a hose down the dipstick tube. Can usually pump out around 3.5 quarts. Add fresh fluid than take it for a drive and repeat the process 3 times. I did drop the pan around 130k and replace the filter. It didn't really look that bad and probably could have gone longer. Don't think I'll do that again and just stick with drain/fills.

Temp seems to be one of the major driving factors of the increased voltages. When cold out, I'll see 15v after startup. Seems to go down after a while. My work (18 Chevy Equinox) does the same thing. 15.4v according to the DIC after a cold startup. Will come back down to the 14's eventually. In the summer time its high 13's/low 14's.

I have ran both the Mobil 1 M1-212A and the Fram Ultra XG10575 on my 14 Sierra 5.3. Both are well made and would recommend.

I've had these tires on my 14 Sierra for at least a few years not and a little over 50,000 miles. They have at least another 10,000 miles left on them. Overall they have been good and would recommend.

I replaced the thermostat on my Sierra last fall after starting to notice lower coolant temps. Brought it back up to closer to normal. It was a pretty easy replacement so it might be worth a try.

Nice write up. Curious why you removed the spare tire? I did this on my 14 Sierra and never removed the spare. Thanks

Do you have a 5.3 or 6.2? Did you also install the throttle controller or just the new throttle body. Thanks!

I'm at around 156,000 miles on my 14 Sierra. Purchased new in Oct 2013. Truck has been good overall. Has never left me stranded and only once didn't start (weak battery which I replaced this winter). I try to stay on top of maintenance. Here is an overview of what I have done: - Change engine oil/filter every 7300-7500 miles. Basically following the OLM to 5% or so. Been using Mobil 1 except for the first few complimentary dealer changes. - Changed transmission fluid by doing drain/fills through the dipstick. Can get about a gallon out each time. Would do this 3-4 times (drive each time between exchange). First time was around 60,000 miles followed again about every 30,000 miles. Dropped pad and did filter a little over 100k. - Air filter every 40-50k. I don't drive in very dusty conditions and they have typically looked OK. - Cabin filter once year - Rear differential fluid around 50k and again around 140k - Front differential and T-case around 80k. Will probably do again at next engine oil change. - Spark plugs and wires around 100k. They actually looked good and probably could have gone further. - Dropped lower radiator hose and emptied overflow bottle last fall (150k miles) and replaced with fresh antifreeze. - Replaced all engine belts (primary serpentine, vacuum, and AC) last fall the same time I did the antifreeze. They didn't look terrible but were certainly showing wear. I had developed a slight 'tick' coming from the front of the engine. New belts seems to have solved that problem. May have been a little rock or something but I figured after 150k they were due regardless. - On third set of tires. OEM till around 50k then Cooper Discover ATW till around 100k, then Falken AT3W which I'm still on. They have been wearing good and still have at least 10k in them. - Still on original brake pads and rotors. May replace them (and fluid) sometime this year. Non-maintenance items: - Front drive door was noisy while driving with a cross wind. Had dealer adjust and problem went away (under warranty) - A few computer updates - Loose driver seat. Would feel like it would slide left/right when turning. Fixed under warranty with kit GM released. - One of the rear shocks began to squeak. Removed and it appeared to be leaking and didn't feel right. Truck was still under warranty but I replaced myself with Bilstein 4600 series which were a little better overall. Also later replaced front shocks with Bilstein 5100 series on 2nd highest level. Front shocks were still good so this was more for looks. - Did replace the vacuum pump as preventive maintenance item (even though it's technically not a maintenance part per the manual). I had suspicion my pump might be on its way out due to a noise I could hear coming from that area. Not long after I replaced it, GM issued the bulletin regarding replacing it if you had braking issues. I never did have brake issues but was more concerned about it "grenading' and sending debris in the engine oil. Dislikes/problems: - Have a vibration around 75-80 MPH. It's not violent but noticeable. The strange thing is I don't recall having it when the truck was new. Not sure when it really developed. - Had a rattle coming from the passenger front door. Took the armrest off and made a little shim between it and the door where it seemed to be rubbing. Seemed to have fixed the problem. - The torque management, numb throttle, poor transmission programming, and V4 makes for less then exciting driving experience. Transmission is way to eager to get into the next gear and the throttle requires a lot of movement to make power. I bought a Diablo inTune i2 tuner around 90k and installed their 87 octane tune and added throttle boost. Also did the firm transmission tune. This helped some (held gears a little longer) and make it a little more responsive. Also disabled V4 mode which I didn't think helped much anyways. Wouldn't stay in V4 mode long unless I was driving 55 MPH (which isn't often). - Factory headlights were pretty poor. Added an HID kit. - Coating on frame started coming off within the first year or two. A lot of surface rust on the frame now. I've just accepted it. - Paint on front bumper (AT package) is thin or just plain poorly applied. It's covered in 100's of little chips. Wish I would have it wrapped with that clear film. What's interesting is the paint just above the bumper (grill and headlight surrounds) isn't near as bad. Just seems like the bumper has poor paint. - Developed a stain on the headliner. Appears to have come from the 3rd brake light as the bulb was out. Suspect water got in and stained the headliner and burnt out the bulb. - Something inside the tailgate latch broke when trying to open the tailgate. Partially my fault as the tailgate was a little stuck (cold weather makes it stick to my seal kit and tonneau cover). Replaced handle myself (pretty easy fix). Can tell new replacement handle is designed a little differently so there must have been a design change at some point. Thought the original looked a little weak. Overall I can't complain too much about the truck. No rust on the body that I'm aware of and the paint (except the bumper) is good overall. Most of my issues/dislikes appear to be somewhat common. I don't drive the truck as much as I used. Was averaging at least 25k a year for the first 4-5 years. Started a new job in Sept 18 which provided me a work car which is now my daily driver. Sierra gets used on the weekends and mainly to pull the boat. Still runs strong and doesn't burn much oil (maybe 1/2 quart every 4000 miles or so). Since I don't drive it that much, I really haven't gotten too serious about trading it for something different/newer. It's paid for and plan to keep it for at least another couple years. Will wait and see what GM does with the 2021 models.

Been using Valvoline MaxLife ATF in my Sierra. I have done at least 3 exchanges (3-4x drain/fills each time). I'm around 155,000 miles and it still shifts great.

I'm just over 156,000 miles and I think a little over 3300 hours. Definitely don't drive my pickup as much as I used to since my work car is my daily driver. Changed oil last September I think I've only put on a little over 3,000 miles since. Pretty much only driven on the weekends. Now that the boat is out of storage thats about the only time the pickup get's used. Still running great though. Did replace the OEM battery this winter. Was at at a friends place to watch some football and it had been sitting all day outside in sub-zero temps. Went to start it and it wouldn't even crank. Tried my lithium jump pack and still wouldn't crank. Tried jumping (and letting it sit with the other car running for awhile) and nothing. Ended up pushing into a heated shop and putting it on the charger. Steering a non-running vehicle when't is -15F is a real chore! Finally stared after about an hour on the charger. Decided I got my moneys worth out of the original battery and replaced it with an Interstate AGM. Still on the original brake pads and rotors. Thinking it's about time to replace them as they are pulsing more and it seems I have to push on the pedal harder then I used. Will probably replace all rotors and pads and have the fluid flushed.

Looks like Banks is working on a tuner for the 3.0 https://official.bankspower.com/insider_news/3-0-liter-duramax-derringer-development/

I've watched Chad Ivan's YouTube videos where he records his gauges while driving. His oil temps were around 225-233F and coolant around 215F. Are you able to view engine oil temp through the DIC? I know I can't on my 14 Sierra but can through my ScanGauge. My engine oil temps are usually pretty close to coolant temps (196-206F depending on outside temps). Seems the 3.0 Duramax wants to run a little warmer but 280F seems pretty high (especially for 0W-20 oil).

I found this video interesting:

Bumped my idle in gear RPM 50 and idle in park/neutral 100 with my Diablo intune i2 tuner. Definitely made idle smoother when in gear at a stop with AC on.

Thank you for the update. Hopefully this fixed your issues. Keep us posted with any other issues. I'm interested in this motor and will be in the market in the next year. BTW, what color is your Sierra and do you have any more pics? Don't think I have seen that color on the road. Thanks!

I changed it back in September or October so around 152,000 miles.

I have a ScanGauge II in my Sierra and can monitor engine coolant temp. About a year ago I started to notice the engine temp gauge not making it to the normal 12 o'clock position. This was even a long highway drive in summer temps. ScanGauge would be in the mid 180's. Once cooler fall temps set in, it was closer to 175F. Decided to replace the t-stat and temps came back up to around 200. Found a few other reports claiming the same issue. Seems the t-stat wears out and it opens too soon (which I guess is better then too late). FYI, replacing the tstat is pretty easy on these engines.

Good to see another ND member on here! Thank you for the feedback and please keep us up to date. Curious to see what kind of fuel economy you see on a longer highway trip unloaded. Do you ever run to Fargo from Bismarck? I usually manage 17 MPG on my Sierra on interstate going 75 MPH (with no wind...which of course is rare in ND).