Jump to content

Jones1972

Member
  • Content Count

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Jones1972

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Array
  • Location
    Array
  • Drives
    Array
  1. I've decided I wont be using isolation either. 2/0 gauge welding cable between the two batteries, and if I can get it to fit through the current sensor I'll be upgrading the factory main battery ground to a 4/0 gauge cable. Definitely overkill I think but it cant hurt. Ill be upgrading the alternator wire to 2/0 as well. Only thing I'm curious of now is if anyone has an opinion on running an extra charging cable to the Aux Battery from the alternator as well as keeping the factory cable to the main BAT? since I will be running the winch cables from the Aux battery. Any opinions on that? Definitely over doing it for how little Ill be using the winch, but if someone thinks it would help with the current flow etc. why not... Since Ill be running cables anyway what's one more. Any experience with that? Thanks for the tips and input guys!
  2. okay so for the manual override on the isolator, a simple toggle switch to provide power to the coil would suffice to link the two as long as its getting power from the aux bat. cramming the aux bat ground wire into the current draw sensor seems to work on the other threads I've seen, was hoping to get someone's input who has hands on with it? but your info is enough to convince me on it. Now for the big one. If the main battery somehow gets completely drained, which I agree is a possible situation, and I then start the engine, linking both batteries, the charging system and aux battery will become overworked trying to charge a depleted battery that wasn't designed to be depleted that low. therefore possibly causing an explosion or fire. on all of the posts I've seen with people connecting the two battery's straight in parallel with only cables, no isolator of any sort, I feel id see at least one instance of a catastrophic issue? and there's been some setups I've seen very similar to the one I'm suggesting, that have claimed to have no issues? is this a highly likely scenario that I've never seen or heard of? What style and brand of isolator would you recommend to keep this from happening? Or is this an issue that occurs after a lot of neglect to the battery? Hope that's not to much of a ramble, I only know a few basics when it comes to electronic know how, especially on charging systems and batteries. I completely agree on EVERYONE having a different opinion, my plan changes every time I hear a new one.
  3. regulator- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-2015 Forum for efi pump conversion- http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gm-ecm-pcm-conversion/in-tank-fuel-pump-conversion.html I don't know the answer to your mechanical fuel pump question, but I do have this alternative, which is a lot of work, but if you're willing to do it, its very reliable. and of course you could do a much prettier job of it than I've done. I have a 400 SBC, Holley 650 carb, that's been running off an 89-95 gm TBI 350 fuel pump and tank for the better part of four and a half years now, the pump puts out 14 psi +/- and its been turned down with this regulator to 7 psi. truck starts and runs great every time I turn the key. it has the factory TBI fuel lines, both feed and return, all the way to the back of the engine, I cut the two threaded nut fittings off of the lines, leaving the large "flare" so I could squeeze rubber line over those hoses. its a tight fit but they will go, and they'll never come off either. then I wired up the fuel pump to a relay powered by an ignition source and the sending unit to my fuel gauge. I have the factory TBI steel fuel filter on the frame still plus a small clear plastic one near the carb. probably over kill but it doesn't hurt.. just check the final pressure on the output of the regulator to make sure its working, I used a cheap fuel pressure gauge on the end of the hose for that. in my application I have swapped a 72 body onto a 1994 frame, so the TBI fuel tank bolted right up, in your case, you'll have to follow that link to the efi pump conversion thread, there's plenty of ways to go about that. its basically what a lot of the LS swap guys do to their c10 fuel tanks essentially. connecting a high pressure in tank pump to the pickup tube inside of the tank. more than one way to skin a cat, but you could have all these parts from a salvage yard for pretty cheap. hope this helps. sorry I couldn't answer you're question. these are the best pics I have of my setup. and yes it is pretty nerve racking having the regulator right above the distributor. meant to move it about three years ago but never got around to it haha.
  4. Here's a wiring diagram I found from 67-72 Chevy truck forum. I'm not the creator of it but I can say that its accurate. I rebuilt my entire harness by following this diagram. came to this site for the new model trucks but seen this and thought it might come in handy for anyone looking here for it. I split this image into 4 sections in Microsoft paint and print them out on normal printer paper.
  5. Here's a wiring diagram I found from 67-72 Chevy truck forum. I'm not the creator of it but I can say that its accurate. I rebuilt my entire harness by following this diagram. came to this site for the new model trucks but seen this and thought it might come in handy for anyone looking here for it. I split this image into 4 sections in Microsoft paint and print them out on normal printer paper.
  6. Okay, been reading around on the forums and I'm really impressed with some of the information found on here so I decided to make an account and chime in. I'm just gonna throw out my situation and what I've got going on and hopefully I can get some good advice and tips from you guys. I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500, 5.3, single cab SWB, base model pickup with all the basic features, nothing crazy. I'm trying to install a dual battery setup. its going to have a simple battery isolator, the large relay or continuous solenoid style. That will power on with the ignition, or preferably when the engine is running. Allowing the two batteries to be split while the truck isn't running. For the Isolator ill be using a 500 amp continuous working load relay, in hopes that the extra beefiness will help increase longevity of the unit, overbuilt is always better right? unless you guys say otherwise. ill also be using another of these isolators for the winch power cutoff that ill be installing aswell. for the aux battery ill be going with a second starter battery matching the main battery, after reading a few very lengthy posts arguing about deep cycle vs starter battery's vs only using single battery's etc,etc,etc.... I've decided that for the amount of time that ill be using the winch a second starter batt will be sufficient. seeing as a big part of the reason for adding a dual battery is to help with cold starting since ill be relocating to Wyoming within the next 6 months. much colder there than we see in Oklahoma from what I've heard.. I've made up a quick diagram of what the wiring will look like in Microsoft paint, excuse the crudeness of it. it should explain it pretty well I hope. I've also included a screenshot of the "current draw sensor". I couldn't actually find a lot on this, most posts ignore that its there and some say you MUST run your aux battery's ground through that sensor, top to bottom, and then connect it to the block or frame. some also state that it can be connected directly to the main battery ground terminal for the same effect. however wouldn't that cause double the current load through that factory ground lead? after all my reading on the forums I've decided that this setup should do a decent job. however id really like if I could hear some other peoples 2 cents on the whole thing. also with the battery isolator, is there a terminal in the fuse box that will get power only when the engine is running? is that a thing on these newer engines? do they only have Ignition key hot terminals? I know if it was a small block 350 I could just tap into the low oil pressure dummy light. so surely with all of these electronics they would have a something similar to that, id think anyways. so to sum it up my main questions are: Is running the aux battery ground through the current draw sensor the proper way to let the computer "recognize" the battery and adjust the charging rate? and then, is there a fuse or terminal to tap into in the fuse box that only has power when the engine is actually running? lastly id just be happy to hear yalls input and opinions on this setup. current draw sensor
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.