Pearl2017

It is an LTZ model with towing and such. The windshield was replaced but didn't notice it not working for many weeks. they said they calibrated it but I didn't watch them do it. the mobile glass co is unresponsive now so out of the picture for good, I have a Bi/Dir scanner but no camera cal function so I guess ill have to $$$ take it in.

Ive noticed the LKAS "Lane Keep Assist" is no longer working. There are no LKAS errors and the dash icon goes green but on/off. I pulled the camera cover and and checked/cleaned the glass looks spotless as well as cam lens. I recently had windshield replaced and someone suggested the new glass may be the problem? Anyone have opinion of the issue? doesn't seem to be a lot of info online for this system many don't seem to like much.

sounds normal to me, uphill your losing some speed/airflow and rad fans set point is much higher stock temp so don't kick in right away. going downhill the load is gone slip is minimal and vehicle speed/airflow is usually increased. no service needed IMO

my 2017 tri pearl white paint is lifting all over. Pretty sure the culprit is enviro forced fed law to do away with chemicals in paint. ...the chemicals that helps bond to the primer So that makes GM a victim too lol. I'm choosing to see it as the Chevy patina ...like an old 50s truck from Nevada just not as old.

If someone finds this old thread ill drop my $.02 opinion... I don't believe USB will be up gradable. The USB port itself is integrated in the infotainment system hardware. The plug in the armrest is just a long extension cable. At this date of power saving newer phones i cannot see needing more USB power for a phone. I use iphone14 with waze in 3 different vehicles and no USB charging issues. I have seen some cellular slobs though that have BUNCHES of data hog apps running in the background constantly updating and pinging data burning battery and shocked the battery struggles. Additionally if the cell signal is weak while traveling the phone uses massive power as it struggles banging multi cell towers to function. Close all apps and disable wifi, reboot the phone then only run waze see if it helps? Save power navigating get a standalone GPS module and connect to phone over BT. Phone uses a lot of power triangulating location from cell towers if it has no internal GPS module. Garmin GLO and DUAL make modules size of a cigarette lighter and can navigate with zero cell signal thru the phone to infotainment screen. GL

Michelin defenders plus Bilstein shocks and the truck glides like a town car down the highway. shocks were a bit stiff new but softened up after some miles. I also part time tow so put lowering links on the rear to level and added the cheap airbags back there and they work perfectly for pulling a yuge trailer with zero squat.

I have same year and engine LTX and had same issue two different times and it was sticky/leaky injector. I have since started running gumout PEA at each oil change. Cannot be sure it helps but have not had another failure. If you scan the ST and LT fuel trims they will appear to be out of balance also.

Ive had injector problems twice in first 50K miles with similar symptoms on 2017 6.2. You may see a leaky/sticky injector as unbalanced fuel trims between banks as one injector drives fueling trim off on that side. The same unbalanced fueling may also appear on the spark plug reading. I then started to run a bottle of gumout PEA at each oil change and haven't had a problem since. IMO the PEA keeps the DI precision injectors clean and happy.

I hv Michelin LT285/65R20 with 34.5" diameter and 11.5" sect width on stock front. they barely rub the felt liners at the tread at full lock. The size you call out seems to me will be slightly smaller so should be good. the stock eagles were 31.8" and 11.1" wide

I bet it would wake up if you went to 4.10 gears. If you get the top end cleaned get a catch can to cut down on future buildup. IMO a heavier oil will help especially that motor is heavy loaded with those steamroller wheels. Run a bottle of Gumout PEA every oil change it does help also. My 17 6.2 max tow is really snappy with just CAI, Soler TB and Borla cat back with AFM disabled.

I lowered 17 LTX rear 1.75"from stock and have Michelin LT285/65R20 on. The fronts barely rub the felt liners at full turn lock. I would say these are the max with 11.1" section width and 34.5" diameter.

Cold 40-44 psi is where i do daily drive. Benefit on a heavy truck is less roll resistance. Ive never had the center of tread wear more at that pressure. While towing you should add more air as load increases up to 80PSI. the goal is to not allow the sidewalls to squat too much and build heat that could lead to blowout. Higher pressures also can help the load feel less mushy sway. Ive towed 12,000 and were 70 psi. IMO 55psi on that 5000 lb load all day long. Do some tests yourself and feel the difference.

The pill flip is the transmission thermostat. You can flip the thermostat valve plunger and it opens the trans cooler all the time. This will drop trans temps 20-30 degrees. its an easy and reversable mod.

With the Tri-tune the trans has a "sport mode" when you enable CC. Whether that is a trans tune i don't know for sure? seems a lot like Tow Haul mode. I no longer use that tune it never really seemed to be $500 worth of silky smooth and i would have needed to spend more to Iron it out. the truck ran a lot better after the trans was flushed and an update at the dealer. After that putting the tune back on seemed to undo the goodness a bit. I already had the interface so licensed HPTuners to disable V4 mode and adjust timing for slight knocking issue. One thing i would try is if you have larger tires and wheels is to correct the speedometer. IMO the additional mass and diameter has some effect on the trans torque calculations that may contribute negatively to smooth trans function. only time it really acts odd is cold mornings. On those days i put it in 1st gear and slowly roll out ...get a bit of revs then manually go to second...third etc after a few blocks switch to auto and all is good. Also have the trans "Pill flip" mod ...trans behaves perfectly.

+1 on the opt7 with a Y harness almost 2 years no problem.

My 128 and 256gb drives are Sandisk cruzer i think. Any one should work as long as it is good quality. If you have the PC for it get USB 3 or 2 they copy much faster. I will reiterate dbpoweramp will rip a cd into any format and bitrate and also add the id3 tags and artwork in one easy shot. the resulting rip is also compared to online checksum database for a perfect copy. If not it will scrub read the disk till it is. If you have a lot of music this is a killer management tool for a collection.

When i turn left pulling into the office each day i do get a clunk on the right side when wheel hits the bump. It is normal as there is some tolerance in the axles.

The KN is working fine for me.

Same truck from 17 with 55k not ready for brakes yet. Curious the answers you'll get.

Unfortunately highest available here in AZ is 91 Oct. After correcting the High Oct timing map it cruises with almost no KR now so it isn't registering my boom box as KR ?

Its been a while since i scanned it but i had filter set so to capture only multiple knock events. At the same time I could see timing being pulled. I applied a correction based on the scan to the timing and timing stabilized. From an engineering perspective I appreciate the ability for the ECU to control advance/KR to ride on the bleeding edge. I figured the 91 Oct was on low side for an engine tuned for 93 Oct thus more knock on the high octane timing map. I pulled up a scan you can see the timing droop down when throttle went up ~1% and some knocking. I was scanning on a trip and afterward i believe i had injector problems and had to take it in for second time. Haven't had any injector problems since clipping out the KR.

I don't have a BBP tune but was scanning 17 6.2 with HPT and could see i was getting some kr just driving highway as road goes up slight elevations. The highest oct i can find here is 91 so i modded the timing map slightly where it was occurring and the truck seems to run better with 0 kr now. I don't have any hard proof but i don't think constant background knock is good for gdi injectors. Saving a few cents on gas may not be worth it.

IMO the stock springs will ride OK. I just did the 1.75" drop shackles and billsteins and truck is level. It rides a bit rough on rough roads but glides well on decent roads ...better than the stockers. I Added airbags for when when i pull the trailer too keep things level.

get a plug n go kit and an air compressor and keep it in the back. If you get a flat throw a plug in and be on your way in 8 mins. You sound a bit OCD.

I somewhat disagree with the Weight dist hitch crowd. That device is NOT supposed to help SUPPORT the LOAD! its job is to virtually shift the load from the rear bumper to just forward of the rear axle (Like a fifth wheel). If you add too much WDH it is possible the load point can be too far forward. In this condition if you have a hard braking event the front end will dive and the rear wheels will lift/unload and jackknife the rig. Carrying a load is the singular job of springs and air bags. either get beefier springs if you tow a lot or a good set of airbags to keep good ride when not towing. I use airbags and pump them till the truck is level and then set the WDH taught enough that the rear stays planted well not lifting and front doesn't dive under braking. Adding high pressure tires and friction sway bars are also great ideas. I pull a 32' toy hauler right at the max of the max tow pkg in a 1500 6.2 truck with some scary moments till I sorted this out. now it is solid and predictable. Do Not Over tighten the WDH it is dangerous!